Hiro

Depends on the width... +35 on a 5.5" stockie is a lot different to +35 on a 7" or 8" alloy.

"Any modification which increases engine performance" A non-standard/non-stock-replacement exhaust item could be argued to be increasing engine performance. Then again, it does depend on how anal the cop is. If you're not driving like a *******, excessive noise etc then you're unlikely to get pulled over for something that minor - if they're operating a defect bay or something when they're targetting this kind of stuff then maybe.

For a 2.0L 4 cylinder carby engine from the 70s, they're a good thing. Nowadays, they're really only an option if you want to stay period-perfect, minimse conversion hassles, or just love the sound of twin sidedraughts at 6000rpm. Good ones with exhaust, cam and carby work should see 100kw at the wheels, but don't expect much more. There are much newer, more powerful and lighter engines out there if you have no qualms not staying period.

Should have had a Nikon?

That's the ISCV I was talking about.

no vtec in this engine! hardly any race engines use it. No need really, since a proper race engine should live just about all it's life in the peak of it's power band, no need for a different cam-profile down low to improve low-speed driveability and economy.

I too would like to see some kind of progress or completion with this car, for many reasons. But I doubt it will happen for several reasons, including 1) it won't get finished in the near future because she's been screwed around _again_ (not commenting on why, but it's already happened a lot) 2) progress will occur, but she won't post it because of spite, anger, being banned, the male gender, or some combination.

Does it idle hunt during this? Is the AC on or off? idle hunt? Did the idle speed jump up and down like it was almost stalling, or unstable and constantly switching between pre-set levels (like an auto transmission "hunting" when the car goes up a hill, and the tranny constantly swaps between two gears because it can't choose between them) I'd be having a look at whatever kind of ISCV you have (usually a valve block on the under/side of the throttle body, controls idle speed depending on certain conditions such as cold engine, air conditioning, power-steering being switched on etc etc). The ISCV screwing up is a common cause on most EFI cars for a hunting or unstable idle.

Dammit, not even the newest Corolla come with something like that? Most stock headunits don't have provision for subs because car manufacturers don't want you mixing aftermarket and factory components - they want you to option-up to the premium sound package when you buy the car. Obviously speakers (being relatively universal) are hard to stop people changing, but subs are a little more exclusive. Plus, making provision for subs (ie RMS pre-outs etc) is more expensive, and 90% of buyers aren't going to even touch the sound system, so therefore there's no need. On the odd occasion you'll come across a car which has provision stock, but that'll either be because a) it's an expensive car which comes with a sub as part of the sound system (Merc, Lexus, BMW, HSV etc), or B) it's a cheap-**** Korean brand or something and they've just shoved in an aftermarket headunit instead of spending R&D money developing an in-house or third-party system.

Every man and his dog seem to be putting Territory wheels on their vans these days, think they're at least 16" though...

Didn't they do that for the facelift ZZE122s? Changed headlights too

Coming out of a resonance/torque-hole maybe, in first gear my 7A gets a noticeable kick at about 4000 (combined with a growl), and thats with no VVT or lift or TVIS or anything. Even N/A engines rarely have completely linear power/torque delivery.

Thanks, but are you sure it's anti-clockwise? I'm trying like hell to get this bolt off and it won't budge. I even put some oil on it to try to loosen it. I'm positive... Try using a longer spanner or bar... The longer it is, the easier it is to undo... Ain't got a pipe and even if I did my non-mechanical mind can't figure out how it would help to loosen the bolt. I have realised one reason why I'm having such a ridiculous amount of trouble with this. On my old '94 Camry the bolt was at the front of the oil pan and at the bottom. On the '07 model it's at the back of it and is on a diagonal towards the back of the car, not at the bottom of it. So when I am lying on my back under the car with my head pretty much under the bolt I have absolutely NO idea which way anti-clockwise is. Would it be too much to ask these car manufacturers to put a simple arrow on there to tell you which way to turn the frickin' thing to loosen it? Just tell me this. When I loosen the bolt is it first movement towards the RIGHT tyre or the LEFT tyre? Just do as I said. Get a ratchet+socket and set it to "loosen" (try it on a more visible, less critical bolt if you have to, anticlockwise will ALWAYS be loosen), then you can do it blind. If the bolt is on the back of the oil sump, pointing slightly down, then the top will turn towards the passenger-side tyre to loosen. If you're having trouble visualising it, get a bolt and nut and hold it in front of your face in the same alignment as the oil-pan bolt. Then hold the nut and turn the bolt - whichever way loosens the bolt will be the way you have to turn it on the sump.

Green Slip Comparison Read it, love it, worship it.

Easy. They paid the same guys who made the rocket-powered Mini for the Winter Olympics special, the British Amateur Rocket Society. The TG guys did just about bugger-all apart from making what turns out to be a pretty poor choice for a car, some extremely basic and useless plans, and digging the bunker for the remote-control pilot (they still never showed how they were going to get the pilot to actually glide it back to ground, no mention of control surfaces etc)

Thats how I heel-toe anyway, well big toe on brake and just behind little-toe on the accelerator, but that's because of the size of my feet. Also, when I'm wearing my work boots, the side of the left boot just near where my big toe rubs against the steering column when I press the clutch in.....

16x6.5 Au229s (basically Volk TE37 copies), with 205/45/16 S-drive AS01 Yokis (used to have Potenza GIIIs)

16" rubber for an AE102 means 205/45/16, which will either give you cheap and crappy tyres, or good but ridiculously expensive (relatively) ones. In some cases, going to a 17" will give you a bigger tyre range at sometimes cheaper prices than the 16s On that point though, I fully recommend 16s for performance/handling. 17s will look OK (the 102s have pretty big wheelarches, especially the fronts), but 16s definitely for handling as a maximum. Okay...but either way going 16 or 17 is still going to be better handling than the 14'' yokohama A drive tyres im currently on? Most likely, if you get good tyres. Best handling would be from 15s and semi-slicks, but they're no use for everyday road driving. 205/45/16 on something like RE001s or S-drives will be almost as good, certainly better than stock suspension will allow too.

There's a track at Marulan???? Anyone got a link or some info?? Driver training centre MDTC

16" rubber for an AE102 means 205/45/16, which will either give you cheap and crappy tyres, or good but ridiculously expensive (relatively) ones. In some cases, going to a 17" will give you a bigger tyre range at sometimes cheaper prices than the 16s On that point though, I fully recommend 16s for performance/handling. 17s will look OK (the 102s have pretty big wheelarches, especially the fronts), but 16s definitely for handling as a maximum.

Usually barefoot, unless it's too much effort to take my shoes off (workboots for example). I'm 6'2" so need every centimetre of leg-room I can get. Never ever drive in thongs (barely wear them anyway), and try to avoid things which have any kind of "lip" around the soles (work-boots have them, and they get caught on the edge of the pedals, but see above). If I am driving in shoes they tend to either be my work-boots, or the smallest, tightest sneaker-style shoes I can find (Puma Titans used to be my favourite). Although having size 14 feet means even really small shoes are fairly big.

Going by that, I've got.......zero. Although maybe a 1 depending on your definition of excessively large exhaust tip (3" droop)

Top end Pirellis are generally considered pretty good. They're also pretty expensive. But you can get crappy ones, same as how Mercedes make an S-class and the A-class at the same time. RE001 Adrenalins are, for the money, some of the best tyres you can buy. They won Motor's (I think) latest tyre test, against some pretty stiff competition. And if you can't get stock from that place, try elsewhere. They're a very popular tyre at the moment, so a lot of places should stock them or be able to get them in for you. At least try Bridgestone themselves (plenty of BTCs around), if anyone can get them in it's the manufacturer.

Meh, doesn't bother me too much, the skids that they were doing weren't amazing anyway and the music just made it all flat anyway. Was all the way up the oxygen seats but could still feel the heat from the flamethrowers

your wrong about 2 things here 1. 5sfe t-belt replacement 150000km 2. not auto ajusting only v6's v8's and newer deisels in toyota have auto adjusting tensioners (you can readjust belt but you have to losen bolt) the spring on the tensioner is only there to keep tension on bolt so you can check its right before you set it and reassemble Fair enough, for most cars it's usually 100,000km as a general rule, obviously there are exceptions. No harm in replacing it at 100,000km intervals anyway, except for the cost of an extra change every 300,000km (a distance that most owners won't accrue on a single car).