Hiro

You might need to clarify exactly what you mean by "college". In Australia, college (when used in relation to university) generally refers to on-campus student accommodation.

Kinda but not, the Hiclone uses fixed vanes.

AU-onwards have a high-positive offset, somewhere around the +40 mark As for having Ford wheels on a Toyota, one of the guys on Toymods had BA XR8 Falcon wheels on his Crown station wagon, looked perfectly fine (as long as you remove the centre caps)

They've already had a Black Stig, _and_ they killed him....

I bother because people need to hear the bad along with the good. I'm not the kind of guy to hide my true feelings. If I have nothing nice to say, then I say the not-nice stuff, because there are times when it _does_ need to be said. The only way some people truly learn is by being informed of their mistakes. l Ok, I believe you. Shall we end this now?

The only models that were sold in Australia were N/A, and I'm pretty sure the Bathurst model was Australia-exclusive. Anything that is factory turbo is an import. Turbo models tend to be badged GT (but there are N/A GTs as well)

Thats because Twincam changed it's domain a while ago (to Twincam.info), and the links didn't update. I've been meaning to change them for ages (I've got a thread on here for the 102 anyway, the 55 is long gone and has been replaced by an AE82 Twincam)

Even though this thread is a few months old now, I feel the need to point out that you don't actually have a silvertop, you have a 4AFE. Plus, the silvertop is an AFM engine and the 4AFE MAP, and I can clearly see the MAP sensor (not MAF) on the firewall. But, probably the best thing you can do is something like this: There's a pod filter in the guard (where the resonator normally sits), with the splashguard pulled open to act as a makeshift air scoop. Some day I'll probably bend up a proper alloy scoop, but for the moment the splashguard will do (and I'm looking for an FX-GT front bar anyway, where I can use the fog-light hole)

Not too much has happened on the 102 front since the idle/starting problem (which hasn't resurfaced mind you), was locked out of the g/f's house on Friday afternoon (got there early and no-one was home), so spent the time finally wiring up the JDM dash-clock. Despite almost rounding one of the screws holding the head-unit in (needed to remove it to tap into the wires), it worked perfectly with a minimum of fuss.......what didn't work was the car the next morning. Turns out I'd left the interior light on overnight (was convinced that I'd changed it from DOOR to OFF when I was pulling the dash apart, suppose I wouldn't have realised since the battery was disconnected most of the time anyway). So the fun challenge of pushing the car out the driveway and clutch-starting it was embarked upon. Put it back on the rollers at SAS yesterday, only change being the installation of the CAI some months ago, showed a net gain of 0.7kw (but different days, different conditions yadda yadda yadda). Still happy with it, even happier with the performance of the AE82 though, didn't want it to beat me but 70.8kw is much better than I was expecting. and the AE82 for comparison, note the ****house AFRs and abrupt TVIS changeover Oh, and people will be happy to note that the battery is now securely held down by a battery clamp, as opposed to the way cooler securely-held-down-by-cable-tie approach

your saying apply hard throttle to correct oversteer, but hes not oversteering hes gone into a slide due to, to much speed entering a corner, remember hes also going down hill so thats made the rear end go into a slide. wouldnt u apply no throttle and hope the front end goes into oversteer to correct the front end. applying throttle should only be used by skilled drivers that know how to use opposite lock Yes, it is oversteer in the sense that the car is turning more than the front wheels are (understeer is the reverse). The cause of it is weight-transfer to the front of the car by applying brakes too late, or simply just lifting off the throttle. This is why it is called "lift-off" oversteer, and is a big problem with FWD cars (they can't power oversteer like RWD cars can, though). The tail gets very light, and makes it easy to swing around. The way to correct it is to get the front wheels pointed in the right direction and then apply power. This puts the weight back on the rear wheels (or at least neutral balance), and the power through the front wheels will pull the rear into line. Because you are pulling the car by the front wheels, the rear will tend to self-centre under power, compared to a RWD car which will tend to fishtail as you are pushing from the rear. Think of it this way. Get a block of wood say the size of a brick, and attach a piece of string to the front. Now, pull the string at an angle off-centre to the centreline of the wood. Notice that the block straightens. Now, instead of pulling with the string, push on the back end of the block, also at an angle. You'll notice that the block will tend to spin, or increase it's angle compared to the direction you are pushing it in.

1) E85 is readily available in the US (you can tell the original clip is from the US because the car is left-hand-drive 2) 105 octane rating Ethanol-blended fuels are becoming more and more a standard rather than an option, and there's nothing wrong with alcohol as a fuel (apart from it's blurry environmental benefit, hydroscopic and can damage some seals/fuel lines). Indy cars run pure ethanol, and V8 Supercars are going to E85 this year. If the car is tuned for it, it can provide significant gains over normal pump fuel, at a significantly lower cost than specialised racing fuel like Martini 105.

You are correct, the 5VZFE that was used in the Prado was also used in the Hilux, VZN167-172 (2002-2004 I think). Knowing Toyota, it is most likely that the sump would need to be changed, but as far as I know the rest of the engine is the same, at least similar enough to allow the block + head + internals to be swapped and the plumbing/electricals remain from before. Don't quote me though, I'd consult a mechanic (or even Toyota themselves) before making any firm decisions.

Depends on what kind of car you want to end up with Period - 18RG with either twin Solex or EFI (both were factory fitted to GTs) more modern - 1GGTE, very common and lots of info around about them, easy to get good power out of them too Cheap but powerful - SR20DET, you'll be looking at some custom work though, but you're saving money by getting a Nissan engine Even more modern - 1JZGTE, is a tight fit and pretty expensive, but potential for huge amounts of power Something a bit different - 1UZ V8, v. solid engine with plenty of torque, not an outright powerhouse unless you spend money, base engine getting cheaper. On the downside, a lot of custom work needed for a manual

On that same logic, if you have little red lines that come up on screen when you spell a word incorrectly, why do you consistently write bad? I'm not blaming you per se, but perhaps Hiro wouldn't have rode his high horse if you had made it clear what you actually meant - rather than throwing a million words together... (prepares flame suit ^_^ ) Exactly. Robie, sorry to come down on you like this, but reading your posts is like listening to a 3-year old talk. Somewhere in there is information, but most of the time it gets lost in a sea of nonsense and garbage. If you want to be taken seriously on here, then you need to clean up your posting. I don't care too much about absolutely correct spelling, but simple things like full-stops and paragraphs can make things 10-times easier to read, plus it makes your intent much clearer. From what I could inter from your original post, you were referring to drifting in NASCAR ("would make it like nascar with that many cars drifting as once"), and then added a comment saying that you love NASCAR because of all the big crashes. Those two bits can be taken seperately (as I did), or together as it seems you intended. Your logic is flawed. The "drifting" (in the now-enlightned sense of robie's initial post) in NASCAR doesn't cause smashes, it is a result of them. If V8s drifted around a corner, there wouldn't necessarily be more smashes because the drivers wouldn't try and go 2 or 3 abreast in the corners, because there wouldn't be room. Passing would be done on the straights instead, or under braking. If the cars oversteered/drifted in the current racing style, then yes more accidents would occur, but a lot of drivers would no longer find themselves with jobs if that was the case. Now I'm sorry if somehow I've insulted people, or if people on here seem to think I'm some kind of forum nazi. Everyone knows that the internet is an imperfect means of communication, but you have to make to do with what you get. To me, (and once again, no hard feelings), robie is a guy who comes on here, posts a whole pile of word salad that could be put together to form something resembling sentences, half of which is illegible or seemingly wrong (either due to miscommunication, or it actually is wrong), and then complains when people contradict him (if he replies at all). To me, that is just asking to get people on both sides of the fence riled up.

Hear ed_jza80's 1UZ Supra and then eat your words. Sounds like a freaking V8 Supercar.

If you have a look on the sidewall of your tyres it indicates the maximum PSI, and 38 is fine. Remember that pressures rise when the tyre gets warm. Because of that, you should always inflate or deflate tyres to a warm pressure, not a cold pressure. 38psi cold might be 42psi warm, and it's this warm pressure that is important as that is what the tyre will be at for 99% of your driving.

It'll probably be blue all the time, but you can only see it on a blank screen because of the contrast. Most manufacturers will only replace a monitor if it has multiple stuck or dead pixels, some upwards of 8 and only if they're tightly clustered. It's a rort considering the quality of some panels out there. My dad's laptop has got no less than 8 vertical lines across his screen, each a different colour, and they're spaced all across the screen, and the laptop is only a year or two old. My 5-year old Dell, which has seen a pretty hard life, has got a bunch of dead columns on the very right hand edge, so they don't affect things, and there are a couple on the left hand side of the screen but they're just outside where a 4:3 picture sits (the screen is 16:10), so a lot of the time that doesn't bother me either (I only use the laptop screen for internet and when I'm on the road, all the other time it's plugged into a 22" widescreen Acer LCD

Because it's easier for a gorilla wearing a blue shirt to use a rattle gun than it is to teach them how to set and use a torque wrench properly.

No, never make existing holes bigger. If you drill out a 4x100 PCD to make it 4x114.3, you're going to have roughly 7mm long slots, which do bupkis for locating studs. What you do is the following: Imagine a square with a diagonal length of 100mm. Now, each corner of the square is where you currently have a wheel stud (on the hub) or bolt hole (on the wheel). To put on a 4x114.3 PCD, imagine a square of diagonal length 114.3mm, turned onto it's point like it's a diamond. Now, overlay that diamond on the 4x100 square, and you'll see the pattern. Or alternatively look at a photo of just about any aftermarket cheapo wheel. There'll be 8 holes, evenly spaced, but only 4 used at any time. The other 4 will either be closer to the centre, or further out, depending on which size is being used.

Going between two 4-stud configs is as easy as getting the wheels re-drilled (if there's meat there). Most aftermarket wheels are like this, with 4x100 and 4x114.3 on the same wheel, just rotated 45 degrees to each other. Don't go spacers at all. They're not worth the effort, legal issues and safety problems.

Generally you clear the codes by resetting the ECU. One way is to take the terminals off the battery for half an hour or so, another (on some cars) is to pull a particular fuse which allows you to keep your audio settings etc. Someone with more knowledge of the ZZEs should be able to help you, or better yet do a search, it's been covered many times.

MAF sensor problem? Tried clearing the codes in the ECU? This seems to happen a bit after people put in CAIs.

KE1x-KE2x Corollas have 4x110 KE3x-AE71x + AE85,86 have 4x114.3 AE8x-ZZE12x Corollas have 4x100 ZRE152 Corollas have 5x114.3 Most Corollas on there are either 4x100 or 5x114.3, maybe you should clarify which model you actually have.

Forgot to mention WRC as well. They are limited to 340-odd HP, similar weight to a V8 Supercar (1230kg, I think both those weights are throwbacks to the Group A era, which both WRC and V8s emerged from), yet they are absolutely lightning fast (gearing helps, as does traction). When you think about it, they don't have THAT much more power than a bog-standard STi or EvoX, not much more weight, yet a tonne more speed.

7Ms only destroy headgaskets if you follow what Toyota recommends for head-bolt torque. It's a defect from factory that was never officially rectified, basically what happened is that the head-gasket material/thickness or something was changed at the last minute but the bolt torques weren't changed to reflect it. If you change the headgasket and bolts, and re-torque in a proper fashion (fair bit of knowledge of this on Toymods), then you won't have any more headgasket problems.