Hiro

The GR isn't a Lexus engine per-se, it's a Toyota engine family used in both Toyota and Lexus vehicles. All engines that have appeared in a Lexus have also appeared in a Toyota. The GR is in the following: Prado IS GS Aurion Camry (overseas) Rav4 Tarago Kluger Crown Mark X The only variant which is essentially Lexus-only is the direct injection 2GR-FSE

There doesn't have to be a single part in common between the Aurion and a Lexus for someone to say "There's a lot of Lexus in the Aurion". Lexus as a brand has a lot of esteem, cachet and luxury attached to it, so when Toyota (the owner of Lexus) produces a car which shares some of those qualities you could say that Toyota's ownership of Lexus has rubbed off on it's own cars. In short, the more experience you have building luxury cars, and the better those cars are, the better your normal cars will be. Or, from another view point, you could stick a Lexus badge on the Aurion and it would not seem out of place in the showroom at all, even as a standalone unique model.

5SFE in a SDV10 (what a 1996 would be) is MAP I think. 3SFE in SV21 (ie 1991) is AFM, at least from what I can find.

And how often to people go to dyno days or the drags? And if they're not trying their hardest on the track, then they're also not likely to be the ones to push the car to the limit on the 1/4 either. And how many people follow "recommendations"? Whilst 15 or 20 minute stints will minimise wear to an extent, it's still significantly more than drags or dynos will ever do. All it takes is one wrong move, one inexperienced driver (and face it, most drivers are inexperienced when it comes to track days, even if it's not their first time) to punt a car into a wall. The amount of ****ers out there on the road is proof enough that most people don't know how to control their car well, yet are over-confident in their abilities.

Well after is turned off, i pulled over on the side of the road and tried starting it but it wouldnt start. It would try starting and the belts would start moving but it just wouldnt start. There were no sounds at all. I dont think any belt snapped, they all looked in place. It tries to start, its seems like theres not enough gas in the car to start, but im sure thats not the case because there is gas Im starting to think it might be the fuel pump You can't see the timing belt unless you take the covers off, so it's still a possibility.

Brings back memories for sure....I miss Billie.... What are the plans for it? If you want to toughen up the exterior whilst still staying period, you can't go past MA61 wheels....

I'd say that a full-on track day is 10-times harder on a car than a drags or dyno. Dyno places NO load on brakes whatsoever, minimal tyre loads (relatively speaking), and the engine is taken to redline in 3rd or 4th once or twice. Drags you flog it for 10-20 seconds at a time, and brake once, then sit in a queue for 10 minutes). Track days you spend 90% of your time with either the throttle or the brake mashed to the floor, you put a lot of wear on the brake pads (usually after a couple of laps on street tyres and pads they're useless), you can go through half the tread on your tyres if you're not careful, you have loads on suspension components that never occur on dyno or drags. Clutch and gearbox get a serious workout as well. In short, dynos and drags are isolated performance tests, track days are the whole shebang. And it only takes one wall to ruin your day, and it's alongside the fastest point of the track too.

The 102 has done a 17.1, but that was completely stock and the first time I'd ever gone to WSID, it's making a good 10kw more now should should be good for low 16s, enough to give some of the 4AGE crowd a run for their money. When I finally stump up the courage and money for the 20V 7AGE it should see 14s or 15s, depending on how much money I want to pour into it.

My car does the same. I would assume that as every Paseo had the same gearbox that they would all be the same revs per speed.... Sounds just fine for a C-series box, just about every FWD Corolla out there does 3-3.5 @100 in 5th (and they just about all run C-series boxes, although maybe with slightly different ratios or final drives to the Paseos/Starlets)

I can't understand why everyone keeps mentioning 5SFE, by the sounds of it this is going to be a 5SGE Yamaha Toyota head = GE.

The original Prados sold here in 4-cylinder RV form (RZJ95) had 5-seat option. Don't know about any of the newer ones though. Easiest way would be to check the build plate, they have to mention there the seating capacity of the vehicle.

Maybe the word "filter" was mis-heard, was supposed to be "fitting", ie the jet itself, which as stated above is easy to get blocked. The only place I'd imagine a filter would be would be inside the pump itself, but if it is I seriously doubt it's a renewable item (never seen or heard it mentioned before)

You'd think people in marketing and product advertising would have though :P

Got to love that genuine TRD oil cap with genuine crappy spelling ("FILLAR")

Wow, I can't contain my excitement...

They were never available anywhere in the world except for Japan......plenty of places in the world got them as the Lexus GS though (Toyota didn't release Lexus as a brand in Japan until recently, which is why most Lexus models have a Toyota Japanese market equivalent: IS = Altezza, GS = Aristo, LS = Celsior, SC = Soarer (although the Soarer didn't get a Lexus equivalent until the JZZ30 series), ES = Windom etc etc)

JZS160 (2JZGE non-turbo) Lexus GS300 was sold new in Aus. Anything turbo or Aristo will be an import though, definitely.

The shell isn't actually real either, it's just an approximate visual representation, like NASCAR.

If I had scales at work I'd take mine off and weigh it....but I don't

There are track days being held at Wakefield all the time (usually every couple of months or so), organised by/through Toymods. Same goes for dyno days (every 6 months). No reason why you can't turn up to them, unless you want a TOCAU-only one.

The oil warning light is pressure, so it will always come on when you first start the car as pressure has not been established (oil pump is driven by the engine). As an aside though, the battery, oil and check engine lights should all come on when the key is in the ON position but the car hasn't been started, this is a standard check.

A fair few people have done this conversion, so a lot of information out there now. If you wanted, head on over to Toymods and check out MWP's ride thread - it's got a lot of good information on it. I wouldn't say a LOT of custom work has to be done - EFI setup, custom mounts, bit of massaging to get the 'box in, and probably some sort of chassis stiffening - nothing that wouldn't happen with most other modern engine conversions. I was more referring to the amount of work for the gearbox, since no 1UZ came out with a manual. Look at the amount of effort Ed has had to go through for his W58-1UZ in the UZA80.

May be going, g/f has a surprise for my birthday (3rd) that she says requires an overnight stay in Sydney that weekend....

Flat-blade screwdriver works well. Like I said, if you break a couple it's no big deal, just about every boot trim in every car ever made in the last 20 years is held down by them, so they're easy-as to get new ones, just make sure you get the right size (there's a couple)

Are they Christmas tree studs? Don't worry about destroying them, they can take some abuse and if they break they're $2 for a pack of 10 (just guesstimating) at Supercheap or the like.