Hiro

The parents one is a base-spec CSi, facelifted model SDV10, and the cup-holders are just beneath the ash-tray (from memory, haven't been in it for ages) Quite possibly in this location Done some searching (looking at cars on eBay seems to be the best way of finding dash photos), seems like maybe it's only the facelifted models (ie the one without the Camry or Vienta between the tailights) which have the cup-holders under the ashtray, earlier models just have a bigger storage "dish" bit Here's another

99% sure that my parent's '96 Camry has cupholders..... Toyodiy says that there are cupholders too Maybe the Vientas are different somehow?

7-8 psi is quite mild, remember that a lot of Toyota's more recent inhouse turbo/supercharger efforts run very mild boost so that internals don't have to be upgraded - hell, the AE112 Sportivo Turbo ran 8psi on a completely stock 7AFE, only intake piping and ECU were changed, still used the same compression ratio as the NA engines.

MY EYES!!! What the...????? Nooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!! 101.9% Innocent, Clean & Decent->> 45% Innocent, Clean & Decent!!! *Watches Korean MVs to clean that off my mind* I think I need further treatment. I can't believe people still fall for lemonparty/goatse/tubgirl......

Take a look on Toymods and you'll find 1G conversions into Coronas and Celicas are extremely common and heavily covered, so you shouldn't be short on information/assistance at all.

I've heard a lot of stories about places which refuse to work (or are really reluctant) on something which isn't a Commodore or Falcon. Best to go in with an attitude like "I want this, this and this", as opposed to "what do you reckon"

Forgot to add, my 102 hit 300,000 a few months ago, still going strong.

One blog relates it like this: (when a kid) The Steering is similar to: Turning your bike handlebars around 180 degrees. You can steer the bike but it will try to try to turn the bike steering around to back to normal. Caster/castor issue then? Self-centring problems are often related to incorrect wheel alignments.

So you're saying someone shouldn't put gold rims on a white Aurion, because you saw them on a BLACK COMMODORE and they looked crap? So not only are you trying to compare different colours, but completely different models from different manufacturers too. And I've seen gold rims on many cars before and they good just fine (they go particularly well on red AE82 twincams, for instance)

Some cars have more adjustment on the driver's seat than the passenger's seat (when you think about it, it's more important to have height adjustment for the driver than the passenger). This could be one of those examples.

You can use countless SW20 MR2s as inspiration for this... eg or these

I've adopted the Toymods trend of putting sarcastic stuff in italics, sometimes with underscores before and after (what I usually use for emphasis too). No-one misunderstands me then

What are you using now? No point us saying something and you're already using something better. Oil is very dependent on kms and how much you're currently burning (it's a 7A, so I guarantee you it'll be burning a little bit by now). I use Penrite HPR30 at the moment (20W60), if you're not burning much then a good 15W40 could be used, but if you go thin enough to notice a difference in response you'll also notice that it will just about pour out the exhaust :P Oil filter, generally most people will say that Toyota genuine part is the best, but I've had no troubles running Ryco and Purolator filters, whatever floats your boat and doesn't cost the earth, remember it's something you should be changing every 5000km (along with the oil), 10000km is too long considering the age of the car and the probable oil consumption. Coolant - Toyota Long Life Red is once again what most will recommend. Running a Nulon or equivalent premix or concentrate won't impact on the "response" of your engine one iota - if it does it's job, then it shouldn't matter which you use.

Best practice for 100% nitrogen filling isn't to create a vacuum in the tyre, it's to use two valves and blow excess nitrogen through to force the air out. Think of it as flushing a cooling system with tap water from a high-pressure hose - after a while the outflow has no more coolant in it, and is straight tap water.

Everything is normal then. Pulling the combination switch to momentarily activate high beams is the same as pushing it forwards to turn the highs on permanently. Standard headlight wiring will only have 3 connections - 12V, high beam ground, low-beam ground (if the parkers are separate). The internal wiring of the headlights should determine whether or not the lows stay on when the highs are switched. Essentially, what you see when you pull the switch towards you is the same as if you've turned lows on and then pushed the switch away from you - it's just set up that way so you can flash highbeams easily without having to pull the switch back, and so you don't have to have lows on first.

I'd be guessing (since you've put HIDs in) that there's a wiring problem/change. Generally headlights are ground-switched (as in they have power all the time but the combination switch closes a connection to ground for whichever needs to light up), so it seems that both highs and lows are getting grounded when the comb. switch is pulled to high. Out of curiousity, what happens when you turn the lights on to low, and then push the switch to high (as if you were driving at night on a country road)? Do the lows still stay illuminated?

Depending on the bulbs used, a lot of cars keep low-beam on when highs are switched. This is usually because they are a dual-filament bulb, with one filament (which is shielded or positioned off-centre to project downwards) providing low beam and both together providing high-beam

Photos would kinda help :P

KYB Excel Gs are essentially de rigueur amongst the older FWD Corolla crowd (82/93), they've got good history and solid performance. Whilst not GTs in particular, I have heard some shocker stories over the years about Monroes.

You'll notice that a lot of those kind of things have little warning texts hidden in the fine print or on the back saying "off-road use only" (as in illegal for driving on the street, not for 4WDing etc)

You can safely confuse VTEC and VVTL-i though, whilst completely different in operation they are the same in effect.

I'd be inclinded to get a new buckle latch as a whole, seatbelts are something you don't want to be pulling apart and putting back together unless you are licensed/authorised to do so, it can have very serious safety ramifications if a seatbelt fails because something internal wasn't screwed in properly.

Any progress is better than no progress though...

the tyres will not pop.. when the manufacturer make their tyres they test the load rating of a tyre BEYOND what its capable of so for example a 87 load rating tyre could have a true load rating of 95 - 96? well it is kinda common sense that you dont make something that will POP or DIE on the limit they specified... just take lifts for an example :) That's called a Safety Factor, or Design Factor. It's rare that you'll see something with a factor less than 2 (ie is capable of taking twice the load that is expected before failing), and in some fields you get safety factors upwards of 5-10 (ie things are 5 times stronger than they need to be). But the problem is legality. Whilst it most likely won't fail, it is still illegal to have tyres/wheels with a lower load rating than what came standard for the car, because it won't meet the safety factor specified in ADRs or the like.

I must say I was a bit of a doubter before, mainly because the wing looked ugly-as on the original colour. Black makes it look a lot better, still 50-50 on the bonnet though (unless I knew it was actually purposeful). Needs wheels pronto too. See what happens when you post progress though? People start respecting it.