Hiro

Best/easiest thing to do is put the same series gearbox back in, most likely when your engine gets upgraded down the line (I'm assuming 1G or 1JZ) you'll easily be able to get a gearbox to suit along with it.

It's amazing what 10 seconds on the KYB website can tell you Front - 334377 L, 334376 R Rear - 341338 L, 341338 R And there's a very obvious difference front to rear, as the front is strut-type and the rear is torsion-beam style, so the shocks are completely different.

I just get in it and go, in the morning I have to turn out from my street into a fairly busy main road so the minute or so spent sitting there idling is enough to get the temp needle headed in the right direction (unless it's a _really_ cold morning). I tend to give it a bootful leaving work (being in an industrial estate helps), but it's a 300,000km engine so it can't exactly do much more harm :P

Maybe a dummy display model?

Do you mean VVTL-i? I thought our Camry has VVT-i as well? Seeing that's written all over the I4 Camry. I think the early Camry 1MZs didn't get VVTi, but the Lexus ones did. The Camry 2AZ 4-cylinder engine did get VVTi though

port/polish only gives significant results if there is a significant restriction/problem there in the first place. Some cars react better to it than others because they have such a crappy manifold to start with, others with a better quality manifold from the factory will benefit less.

I remember getting almost 800km out of a full tank in the 102 a couple of years ago, but that was almost entirely on open road/highways and before I got my exhaust and intake on... And the fuel light is a useless indicator, mine will come on and go off when there's more than 15L left in the tank because I'm going up hill, or around a roundabout too fast, or even over bumps. Both ways that I go out of my street in the morning lead to very steep down-hill bits before turning onto the main road, so I'm often sitting there for up to 5 minutes waiting for a break in traffic. During that time, my fuel gauge can go up by almost a quarter because of the slope, and the opposite if I'm stuck at the top of Beaumont St waiting to turn onto Glebe Rd. Filling the tank all the way to the top, then driving for a long distance and refilling it to the top and measuring the ks travelled is the only reliable way of getting fuel consumption figures. Also, saying how many ks you get out of a tank is useless unless you state how big the fuel tank actually is. My parents regularly get more than 700km per tank in their Camry, but that's a 70L tank, whereas the Corolla is only 50L. Plus, you never put a full tank of fuel in, and never the same amount each time either, thus a L/100km or km/L figure is the only real way to compare.

1984 = RA60/SA63/RA65? Any reason for a "high-performance" gearbox (ie is the engine not standard etc?) Because otherwise, the best bet is to just get the exact same gearbox as what you have right now (W50 most likely) and just drop that back in.

All AE92s are technically "twin cam" models, either 6AFC, 4AFC, 4AFE, 7AFE or 4AGE. Given that it's a Seca and carby, that would make it the 4AFC

Just remember if you disconnect the battery, you'll lose clock/stereo settings and may need the security code (if it's a standard head-deck) to use it again.

That's probably a figure quoted at the wheels. If so, then it can be believable. Exactly... Remember that the torque output of the engine gets multiplied by the gearbox + final drive ratio in the diff, if it was on a dyno then you'd be looking at roughly 1:1 through the gearbox and then between 3:1 and 4:1 through the diff, so that would mean 700Nm at the ground = roughly 200Nm at the fly, perfectly reasonable for a 1.3L turbo.

Why would you even use a rattle-gun on wheel nuts anyway? In my opinion, wheel nuts should only ever be done up initially by hand, then torqued to the proper value by a torque wrench (100Nm is a good figure to use). This is tight enough to hold the wheel on but loose enough that you can change the wheel on the side of the road without having to resort to a breaker bar. I've seen wheel nuts done up so tight with a rattle gun that a 2m-long breaker bar wasn't enough to undo them (actually ended up stripping the thread). They're like spark-plugs - fingertight plus an extra hit to the specific torque, anything more and you're inviting trouble.

America's always been backwards in that regard.

When you fill up, note total litres you put in, and distance since last fill. This gives you distance/litre for your car/petrol type/driving style/driving conditons. Now, look up petrol tank size in your manual. Difference between that and the amount you're putting in is the size of your reserve in litres. Multiply by your distance/litre figure, and you have your reserve's range. I'm sure he's worked it out in the last year....

Let this go. Before it's too late It's already too late.... Probably the only thing I cringed at, apart from the cheesy "appreciate a fine body regardless of the make" line, the description of Dom's perfect girl before that was great though, swap the %s and it'd be the same for me.

Does it rev normally though? Maybe idle speed is set too low, does it have an idle-speed adjuster screw on the throttle body (like a 4AGE)?

Remember that Car Of The Year has always referred to cars released that year, or ones which have received significant-enough updates/upgrades that year. On more than one occasion NO car was awarded because the magazine deemed no new car worthy. I agree with _most_ of their choices for Car Of The Year, a few odd ones stand out though.

The only way regenerative braking will regenerate more is if it takes longer to stop. So the brake pads would need to be worse than the stockos. In which case may as well use EBC Green Stuff Unless I'm missing something in how the Prius works... You won't get more energy from slower braking, since you are still loosing the same amount of energy just over a longer time. Regen braking in the Prius works by running the electric motor as a generator (ie the interia of the car is the engine powering the electric motor, as opposed to the electric motor powering the car). The only energy that can be inputed into the system is the conversion of the kinetic energy of the car into electrical energy in the generator/motor (and vice versa under acceleration) - the car has the same amount of kinetic energy to lose regardless of how fast or slow you brake (but efficiencies could well be different, which might create noticable differences)

As long as it has a Motec exhaust

That's reliability for you. Most cars will drop 20% or so the instant you drive them out of the dealership, the better ones will then hold roughly that value for a year or so but the fleet cars like Falcodores and Camrions tend to keep dropping to around the 50% @ 3-year mark. After this though the 'Yotas will probably stabilise a bit where the Falcodores keep heading south, the fact that you can pick up BA/BF Falcons for under 10-grand is evidence enough of this.

No such thing as JASMA-brand mufflers, JASMA is the Japanese Automobile Sports Muffler Association, an accreditation body. It's like saying you have JWL-brand wheels (most Jap wheels have the JWL logo on them, which is a Japanese wheel standard), or SAE-brand something else (SAE is the Society of Automotive Engineers)

Don't answer the spambot, you don't get the same sense of satisfaction and warm glow inside that you do when you help a real person. Instead, feel free to make disparaging comments about them, or join us in our current trend of just spouting out cringe-worth Fast And The Furious quotes.

Seen it before, ironically what stood out the most for me is the fact that the thread says it's a Z4 but the pictures clearly show an E90 3-series....

Be thankful you drive a car/engine that is relatively well supported by the aftermarket community, makes things like this a lot easier. Wish there was a TRD/TTE off-the-shelf supercharger kit for the 7A.....or even better, for a 20v 7AGE

It's not a silly or stupid at all. It'll come down to how much money you have, the suitability of the engine (things _can_ always be done, whether or not they should is a different question), and personal preference to the style of car/engine you want to have.