Hiro

As with most Toyotas (if not most cars) the temp gauge should sit slightly below the halfway mark (no more than a tick or two though) First, get yourself a Gregorys or similar workshop manual - they're indispensable for all the DIY stuff. Worthwhile checking first is if the thermofans are operating correctly - they should turn on when the engine gets hot but turn off when travelling on the highway. If they're on all the time then the car might not reach correct operating temperature. Also worth checking is that the thermostat in there is working correctly - take it out and dunk it in a pot of water and slowly bring it to the boil (with a thermometer in there too), and note the temperature at which the thermostat opens. Compare that to the standard opening temperature - if it opens at the correct temperature then it's not a problem, if it opens too early then that could explain your problem - and replace if necessary.

Definitely 1VZ, most likely out of an imported narrow-body Camry that the ES250 was based off (Vista/Windom)

Mobil fuel hasn't been Mobil for ages anyway, right? Just re-branded BP or Caltex fuel.

Where did that 1000 come from? And why did it suddenly change to m^2/s? Your numbers are screwed - you've changed from m/s to m^2/s for no apparent reason, and then decided to introduce kilograms. Why are you bringing atmospheric pressure into it? 1) That will vary depending on altitude 2) As you said, you will get venturi effect inside the engine 3) Atmoshperic pressure isn't the density of air (they are related though) You're ending up with meaningless numbers...m^2kg/s? What use is that? You'll either want volumetric (m^3/s) or mass (kg/s) flow rates

I doubt it's a "pour" anyway - aircon condensation is a steady drip, and anything that "pours" out will be empty after only a couple of drives, making it's lack of presence immediately noticeable (coolant = engine overheating and blowing, oil = engine overheating and blowing, power-steering = steering becomes heaps harder and you hit a wall, brake fluid = brakes don't work and you hit a wall, clutch fluid = clutch won't work gearbox grinds and won't change gears and you'll get distracted and hit a wall)

What colour is it? Coolant will be either green or red, oil will be black, fuel will smell, power steering fluid will be red etc etc And whereabouts is it dripping from? If any fluid is leaking then checking all your fluid levels will tell you what it is, the location will help too In saying this I'm assuming it's not condensation from the air-con, if you've had the aircon on for any decent amount of time then you'll get fairly steady drips coming from the vent pipe, this is completely normal.

I think you need to be a silver member to see attachments

but my username is based on that fictional sapce cruiser well its not really anymore now u put rice in it.... so acendant means nothing now without justice....y cant it just be william rice lol Because the rice constantly ascends to new levels? haha you guys are so harsh.. ;) Fortunately Will has matured enough to know that it's all in good fun...

You're going about it the wrong way - think of flow as a cross-sectional area moving at a speed. So you'll have roughly 7m^2 moving at roughly 260m/s...multiply the two and you'll have (7x260)(m^2 x m/s), giving you 1820 cubic metres / second, or 1820000L/s

Just spray-paint the tennis-ball silver :P

I'm a drafty/design engineer in the mining vehicle industry, so I see millimetres combined with tonnes all the time, and that gives big big numbers...

Engineers wouldn't scoff at those numbers at all. We're used to seeing things x10^9 (giga) all the time.

Correcting lift-off oversteer in a FWD car requires little bit of opposite lock (but you take it back to neutral once the back end gets back in line), and throttle. Braking will just make things worse. Then again, there are times when it just can't be corrected - generally FWD cars understeer (which is good in that it is relatively safe and easily corrected) but once lift-off oversteer kicks in it needs to be controlled VERY quickly otherwise you're screwed. I had a situation a few years ago where I hit standing water just before a corner and aquaplaned straight ahead. Coming out of the water I already had my wheels turned, so the front of the car kicked around. Loaded up opposite lock, but tapped the brakes a little too much (was more concerned about getting out of the oncoming traffic), and the rear end did a full 180, swinging out halfway into oncoming traffic, and ending up actually jumping the gutter side-on and facing back the way I had come. Scared the ***** out of me

I'd say throwout bearing too, and they can go even at relatively low ks (parent's Mazda2, which has been reliable as the sun since day 1, had the throwout bearing go at about 70,000km). Gear rollover is such a stupid term though, what's wrong with the proper gear term called backlash?

Because back then things were made pretty rock solid inside and the hit usually travelled to everything inside. Now they are made with so much plastic that when you hit it, the plastic absorbs the shock instead. ... Just a though. Funny you mention that though. We have an old-school widescreen CRT TV. It may be big and heavy, but the picture on it beats any LCD on the market. The image on it does play up every now and again, and the perfect solution is to give it a good whack on the top. Whacking works with TVs because you've got mechanical items in there like BFFO (big fat ****-off) magnets and electron guns that can get out of alignment (the whole reason you have a de-gauss function on CRT monitors), a physical impact can jarr them so could (with luck) realign things These days where everything is transistor-based and LCDs/plasmas rule, these mechanical items are disappearing and being replaced with electrical ones that don't respond to physical actions.

JDM-spec yo Cars have different names in different countries remember.

Just buy one, tight wad. It'll be the best $50 or so you can spend on your car. Was just about the first thing I did for imine. Failing that, I've got the EWDs on my photobucket, anything else you need to know just ask but there will come a time when it's more worthwhile for you to just buy the bloody thing yourself. For the cost of a tank of petrol it is definitely worthwhile.

You have to remember the 2zzge is way more efficient than the 1zzge. My wife 1zz auto only gets 500ish ks from a full tank with normal driving. My sportivo never gets under 600ks from a tank even with regular lift right to redline and city driving. My best is 750ks combined (with petrol light on) and my second best is 735ks. Both of these figures were city/hwy driving with zero lift. I reckon i could crack 800 on highway only driving with a jerry can in the boot just in case. The sportivo also has a 60ltr tank whereas the 1zz corolla only has a 55ltr tank. When my fuel light comes on it usually means i have at least 10 litres left so 800ks is possible. Kinda different comparing a 6-speed manual to a 4-speed auto though :P Of course the auto is going to be less efficient.

And for once I actually agree.....

Especially if you get the Legnum, with the twin-turbo V6.....

Think of it this way - imagine you are sucking up Coke through a straw. Assuming the straw is wide enough, the limit on how much Coke you can suck up is your mouth. Adding another straw won't make you suck up more, it will just split the flow. Now if the straw is too small to start off with, you will notice that you'll be limited in how much you can suck up, and adding a second straw will improve flow (up until the limitations of your mouth). But in real life, no car is made with that much of a restriction in the piping stock - a little, maybe (a couple of %, if that) In this metaphor, Coke is air, the straws are the intake pipes, and your mouth the engine. Make sense now?

Butt-dyno. You think there should be a benefit, your ears are hearing new noises that sound "more powerful", so your brain convinces you that there must have been an improvement. Unless you are feeding cooler air into the intake, or there was a massive restriction in the stock inlet piping, you will get NO benefit at the wheels whatsoever. A change in intake noise, yes (thats because the resonators are designed purely and simply for making the intake quiet), but a change in power no.

Unless it was a restriction in the first place :P But yes, a lot of people fail to understand that cars always* suck in the same amount of air even if there is no piping whatsoever and just an open throttle body.

I most certainly hope not, gearboxes have been fully synchronised for well over 20 years (if not 40). Interesting, when I was asking about my box being a bit clunky going into 1st, I was told by a mechanic it's because 1st doesn't have synchro as it's normally not really needed... It's clunky going into first because the synchros will be worn - first gear is the one that gets affected most because it's the biggest torque multiplication, and it's the gear that gets abused most (stop-start traffic, lots of shifting) Your mechanic might be used to dealing with American transmissions in Holdens etc (which were generally very old basic designs and didn't have synchromesh on first), like how some dyno operators say that 4th gear is always 1:1 because it locks the input shaft directly to the output shaft (complete crock of **** in FWD Toyota gearboxes) because most of their knowledge is in RWD transmissions like Toploaders and Tremecs.