Hiro

Wait, what? Next time you post, please attempt to use full words (at a bare minimum, punctuation would help too), this isn't SMS for crying out loud.

AE82GT? You mean a Twincam, or FX-GT? And the Trueno, is that an AE86 or AE92?

If anything, that's a fail on behalf of the escalator, not the unicyclist. He did the jump perfect, even managed to stay upright and jump off after the glass broke rather than doing the traditional face-plant into the ground/railing.

Drove it to Sydney and back to check out an ST162 and pick up a bar-fridge from my brother's place Most driving the car has had in a loooong time.

It's not non-linear, it's just that "empty" on the dipstick isn't empty in the sump (the dipstick doesn't go all the way to the bottom of the sump) - the oil circuit should always contain a certain amount of oil for the engine to function (this is the "low" level when the car has been turned off and all the oil settled to the sump), and then the gap between low and high is only a litre or so. If you do an oil-change on a car which has started to flash the oil-pressure light, you'll still get 3L or so out of it - you have to remember the capacity of the system is sump+circuit, but when you do an oil change or check the dipstick you are only looking at the sump itself. When the car is running, all the oil in the sump will be distributed throughout the engine rendering the sump near empty, thus starving the oil pump and causing the warning light to trigger - however when the car stops all that oil drains back to the sump leaving the circuit roughly empty (apart from the oil filter, which retains oil to help on startup). In short, a VERY good practice to think of is that "LOW" on the dipstick means LOW, not EMPTY. OR a dipstick which says "LOW" when the car is stopped and settled will equal "EMPTY" when the car is running. Either way, letting oil level drop below LOW is a very bad idea.

Not wise at all, dude. The oil light is a low oil-pressure warning, not a level indicator. So if you run the car low enough on oil for the oil pump to starve and turn the warning light on, then there's a good chance that the oil circuit (especially big ends) will be devoid of oil, even for a microsecond. This is bad, as it will lead to spun bearings or even a thrown rod, both of which are expensive to fix. Keep the oil level above the "low" on the dipstick and you'll be fine. The difference between low and high on the dipstick is usually only about a litre or two, compared fo the 4-5L (depends on the car) that it takes to fill the sump from dry when doing an oil change.

Most people choose to do oil-changes themselves every 5000km, especially on older cars which are starting to burn a bit of oil which means you can go through a whole sump-full of oil in about 7-8000km, which means 10,000km ain't going to cut it. I've heard the "oil at 5000k, filter at 10000k" too, mostly from Americans so there must be some history behind it. But once again, Ryco filters are rarely more than $10 (and they're decent enough, if you insist on genuine Toyota ones then they're like $20) so you're not saving that much money and it only adds an extra couple of minutes to the oil change to do the filter too.

No such thing, and I'm pretty sure you can't make one with a 22R block and 18RG heads... Best bet would be a 4AGE, been done plenty of times and gives a lot of poke for a car that only weighs 800kg or so. Other options include 3SGE (but that takes a bit of effort to make RWD), 2TG, or straying outside of the Toyota family you'll get CA18s, SR20s etc aplenty. As for wheels, I personally love the MA61 14x7 wheels on a KE55, they bolt straight on with the right tyres and make the car look 100% tougher (they're what I had on mine before I sold it)

Donut King sponsorship?

Bridgestone claim they are Australia's only tire manufacturer. From memory not all of their range is made in Aus though...pretty sure the GIIIs were imports from Japan when they used to still sell them.

What paint did you use?

Thats funny, traditionally 2ZZs have been in the <1800 category (which it is, since it's 1796cc)

They should fit. Only difference between AE100 and AE102 is the engine, unless the seller is just referring to the whole E10x series. Looks like the same front-end as the ADM models too, so you shouldn't have to worry about the grille (some are slightly different, like mine, and require a matching grille)

CCA = Cold Cranking Amps, basically how much "oomph" the battery can supply to start the car Deep Cycle = A battery which can be run to a very low charge and still function correctly, designed to be drawing current for long periods of time. Most normal car batteries are _not_ deep cycle (deep cycle is common for marine batteries, electric vehicles etc though), they are called SLI (Starting, Lighting, Ignition as that's all they do, start the car and run the lights if the engine is turned off) as once the car is running the alternator provides all the juice. Deep cycle batteries for cars are used when people want to run stereos/subs etc for long periods of time whilst the car is turned off and thus drawing juice from the battery. It also allows the car to be started after the battery has drained for much longer than normal car batteries.

Which dyno was that on? Mine has 71kw at SAS (Dyno Dynamics) with just exhaust and intake, and it did that twice with 6 months gap in between, with other cars on both days pulling expected numbers too.

Pretty sure that was the Lancer, and it had Corolla, Focus, Mazda3 and they compared the Lancer favourably to each of the cars, but only in one segment - ie they said it had more power than the Corolla, but better fuel economy than the 3, and more room than the Focus etc etc, totally ignoring that those were the only things at which it was better at than the competition - ie the Mazda had more power, the Corolla better fuel economy, and the Focus more room and so on. Always take car advertising with a mo-fo grain of salt (like an entire salt shaker) anyway, they do anything to try and make their product look better than the opposition even if it isn't.

The ad makes sense (once you see the full version - I kept seeing the short version where they just say "Who's more likely to bring you this show? Ford of course" which makes no sense in isolation), in that they are relating the economy of their newest car against the most popular and best selling car in the category. Holden did the exact same thing comparing the diesel Captiva to the petrol Territory - obviously the diesel is going to come out better. When you have a product that you are trying to sell you try and emphasise the good points over the rivals whilst not mentioning or ignoring the bad points. It's marketing, pure and simple, and all the car companies do it in one way shape or form.

Tarago panel-van?

but thats the only thing they can appeal to - guilt. funnily enough, lowering actually improves the handling of your car and less likely to spin out compared to oem height. its not the mods that cause accidents, just the cocky attitude. its frustrating how mp's never seem to make that connection, they just go for the tokyo drift stereotype Just lowering the car doesn't necessarily make it handle better, otherwise every sports car out there would have cut springs :P The handling benefit comes from a properly matched set of springs, shocks and roll-bars, which most people don't bother to do - they just whack on whatever is cheap/on-special/their-mates-have etc, and assume that it handles/rides better and is safer.

Because it is a real club. Hard to explain... its like a business Exactly. Toymods is a registered club, and as such they have a board, board meetings, certain tax benefits, ability to apply for historic registration etc etc. If you are interested in the running of the club itself, then the meetings are good things to go to - if not, then you'll probably be bored :P

its the club meeting on the 20th JUL monday Ahh You do realise that it's a proper board-type meeting, not just a "gather-in-the-carpark-and-perv-at-each-others-cars" type deal

Might as well chip in AE102 sedan 'Charlene' = still have KE55 sedan 'Billie' = sold KE55 sedan 'Pineapple' = bought as parts car for Billie, stripped and scrapped AE82 Twincam Seca = still have, but to be sold in the next few months, most likely replaced with either an AE92/3 or ST162

What event is it? Dyno Day is on the Sunday (aka 19th), the drag meet is the Wednesday afterwards. Or is it a club meeting rather than a cruise/event? Been a financial member myself for 3 years or so now, attended numerous cruises/shows/dyno days/dinners but never club meetings (too far out of the way)

Work out the overall diameter/circumference of the tyres, that should tell you the story.

I've always trusted SAS (where the biannual Toymods Dyno Days are), nice and central in Sydney too although doesn't equate to much of a cruise from Homebush :P