Hiro

In terms of the internet, you know what spam is? And you know what a bot is? Put two and two together and you'll get the answer. And if you can't work it out, it's below in white: Spam: abuse of online messaging systems by useless, irrelevant or unsolicited information, often for ulterior motives (post count, advertising, being a tool etc) Bot: an online personality which is actually a computer. Automatically carries out tasks based upon scripts/programming. Often attempts to pretend to be a real person in order to trick online users into giving up personal information, or tries to direct users to sites they are trying to advertise etc Spambot - a bot which inhabits forums attempting to appear like a genuine user (in this case posting threads about problems they are having with cars, often copied from other users on other forums or automatically generated by content-scanners) in order to blatantly or surreptitiously advertise products.

Heater core is clogged with spam. Common problem.

I find spam quite good at loosening tight bolts

ah...24? I didn't know pizza places made motors

I love how we're supposed to believe that someone will spend that much money keeping a '91 Camry (ie SV21) looking original, and then their biggest problem is the HUBCAPS GOING YELLOW???

So, Dunn, looks like we're gonna be partners, bro. Could you tell me right quick what would be a better motor for my Skyline, a Gallo 12 or a Gallo 24?

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_G_1994_TOYO...RMDSQ_3609.html

Kind-off. Hotdog resonators are designed to cancel out particular resonant frequencies in the exhaust (like "booming", they do little to reduce overall noise levels. This is why hotdogs are available in various different lengths, to give various frequency-muffling abilities. Proper mufflers reduce overall noise.

No offence, but I highly doubt you'd get $4500 for it. Untouched SX Secas (a lot more desirable, remember that most cars sell on the strength of the base car, not the modifications on top of it) go for around that. With long rego, I'd be thinking more along the lines of $3-3.5k.

And cost too. Barbed filters are a couple of bucks, I've seen some of the bigger fuel filters sell for $60 or more.

What's wrong with basing a car off another (somewhat less desirable) car's platform? The ST Celica range is based off a Corona of all things, yet no-one complains about that. Sure the FN2 hatch gets torsion-beam rear-end (same layout as the Sportivo, and most modern hatchbacks actually), but it's more than just a Jazz with a different body. The car is bigger in every way, including track and wheel-base, it still runs a K20 that still screams it's head off, it is still badged and sold as a Type R by Honda, and if the FD2 didn't exist people would be perfectly happy with it. I laugh when people claim it's not a "real" Type R, simply because a better version exists. The DC5 was a different story because Honda Australia was re-badging Type S models as Type R without adding Type R bits and pieces.

I'd put the time and effort into waxing/claying mine, but the sheer number of stonechips et al on the bonnet and front bar kinda make it redundant. Wash and maybe a light polish is all I can be bothered doing most of the time, and haven't done either in a loooooooooong time (evident by the fact that my wheels are just about black from brake dust) What year model is your Corolla? The paintwork on my 1995 Corolla has oxidation, which sucks. I also think the boot has been resprayed by the previous owner, cos when you look at the boot then the rear side, the boot is heaps clear & shiny, & the side is dull and cloudy. Bit hard to explain haha. Dec 97 (that was the sale date at least), paint-work is fine though, only scrapes and stone chips.

Ahh, which Type R is that? The Civic Type R? They're directly imported from Britain, where they are made. All Civic Type R hatchbacks are the same, there is no "JDM" Type R hatch, and the reason we didn't get them sooner is because of the cost of importing them from the UK wasn't viable. The Civic does have slightly different chassis between the sedan and the hatch, but that's not uncommon these days (Corolla/Auris anyone?). Yes, the Civic Type R sedan is Japan-only, but everywhere else in the world misses out on it too. At least this time we're actually getting a Type R, not a re-badged Type S like the DC5 And you've got it the wrong way around, the Civic hatch isn't based off the Jazz platform (although the rear suspension is), and allegedly the new Jazz will be based off the Civic hatch chassis (which won't be for a while considering a new one has just come out)

Not really, the numbers that get imported would probably be significantly less than Nissan would bring in themselves, yet I'd guarantee that every single one of them would sell if Nissan decided to sell them off the showroom floor, no matter what the numbers (within reason). The fact that people are importing them should be evidence to Nissan that there is a demand for them over here, and that putting them on sale as a niche model would cost them very little but benefit them a lot, both money-wise and reputation-wise. Australia has always been one of the biggest markets for Japanese sports cars outside of Japan, unfortunately we've had to get most of the good ones via grey import, would be good if the car companies could wake up to themselves and see the potential.

4AGEs are renowned for this same problem, wouldn't surprise me if the appropriate Haynes/Gregorys manual has details on how to change the seals (being an FE, it'll probably have the dizzy on the end of the exhaust camshaft though, so it's a bit different to a 4AGE)

In a modern EFI car, when you are off the throttle going down a hill in gear (ie engine braking) you are actually using NO petrol. The ECU stops the injectors from firing, and the engine stops being a driving engine and instead turns into a driven engine (this is the principle behind engine braking and regenerative braking). This is also the reason why the engine note changes significantly if you put just a tiny bit of throttle on (when completely off the throttle, it's quite loud and boomy, but squeeze the throttle slightly and it gets a lot quieter). However, if instead of going down the hill in gear and engine braking, you put the clutch in our shift into neutral, the engine no longer has a load connected to it (or has a driving force pushing it), and will drop to idle. However, fuel must be injected at idle to keep the engine turning over, otherwise it will stall. Thus, coasting down a hill in neutral uses more fuel than going down in gear. At the lights (once again in a manual car), it is more fuel efficient to push the clutch in as opposed to leaving the transmission in neutral. The reason behind this is if the clutch is disconnected, the only thing being driven by the engine is the engine itself, and the flywheel. If the clutch is engaged and the transmission is in neutral, then the engine is also driving the clutch/pressure plate, and the input shaft of the gearbox. This creates drag, which requires more power from the engine, which means more fuel. It's a marginal difference, but it does exist (of course, sitting at lights with your foot on the clutch gets very tiring, and it can wear out the throwout/release bearing). Things are changed completely for an auto. The engine-braking situation should remain the same, but sitting at the lights is different, as when the transmission is in Drive but the car is stopped, you are putting a fair bit of resistance against the engine (since the torque converter/fluid coupling cannot 100% disconnect, you need to hold the brakes slightly), once again sapping power and fuel. Can't remember exactly how an auto creates neutral, pretty sure it's a locked torque converter but no clutches engaged, so there's no physical connection to the wheels (unlike Drive, which relies on brake-load and slipping the torque-converter to stay stationary) EDIT: As an aside, because a lot of people find it hard to believe that the engine uses no petrol when engine braking, try this (only tried it in a manual, so no guarantees for an auto): 1) Get up to around 60km/h or so on a straight road (downhill helps) with no traffic, in gear 2) Take your foot completely off the throttle, listen to the sound the engine makes (this is engine braking) 3) Leaving the car in gear, and without touching the clutch, turn the ignition key to ACC 4) Listen to the car, it will sound exactly the same as when in engine-braking mode and the car turned on If you pay a bit more attention, you'll notice that it sounds exactly like an electric air compressor, because that is exactly what it is. The sound you are hearing isn't the burning of petrol, it's the compression and release of the air in the piston. At this stage the engine is simply an air pump, powered by the inertia of the vehicle and gravity, which drives the engine through the rotation of the wheels and hence the transmission/clutch/crank. Car engines make pretty good air pumps (that's what they are in essense anyway, just powered by internal combustion), in fact Beetle engines are renowned in the Australian opal-mining industry for being used as air-compressors - one side of the boxer burns fuel like a 2-cylinder internal combustion engine, the other side (which receives no fuel or spark) acts as a 2-cylinder air pump/compressor)

Makes sense, considering the car was built to take on the 911 from the start. No doubt some V-spec, Nur and other variants will come along in time, with more power and less weight/gadgets. Pretty sure a Vspec has already been announced actually

I'd put the time and effort into waxing/claying mine, but the sheer number of stonechips et al on the bonnet and front bar kinda make it redundant. Wash and maybe a light polish is all I can be bothered doing most of the time, and haven't done either in a loooooooooong time (evident by the fact that my wheels are just about black from brake dust)

They do make a difference, mainly because the standard cast-iron log of a manifold is a pile of crap. Plus extractors look better

Hey, if it works in Fast and the Furious, it must work in real-life, right? Right? 2JayZee no sheeeeeet Needs moar Motec Exhaust. Don't worry, I'll overnight it from Japan. Better watch the danger to the manifold too. It could cause your floor to fall off.

Welcome to last year (no idea why it's been brought up again in some media, it was rather heavily covered the first time) And we all know the real reason it's called the GINA is because the bonnet looks like a vagina.

Hey, if it works in Fast and the Furious, it must work in real-life, right? Right? 2JayZee no sheeeeeet

Well...if we're taling about performance between IS-F(as I know IS-F is replacement of supra, right?) and R35... I would say R35 is better... If you're taling about looking...well..that's fully personal preference tho...hehe I would have thought the LF-A would be more of a Supra replacement...

Still not sure I understand. I thought the numbers were the seconds it takes for a litre of oil to flow through a certian size hole. Logically I thought oil should be less viscus at higher temperature so the numbers didn't really make sense to me. Lower numbers mean less viscous (thinner) right. For a straight-weight, yes. Oils are classified by their ability to flow through the orifice (measured in centistokes, or Saboltseconds), but the rating for a multigrade aren't direct times, rather equivalence to straight weights at particular temperatures. In a multigrade oil, the first number refers to the equivalent viscosity at the winter temperature (which is -18C). For a 20W40, it means that the oil at the winter temperature has the same viscosity as a straight 20-weight oil at the winter temperature. The second number refers to the equivalent viscosity at the higher temperature (which is 100C). So for a 20W40, it means that the oil is as viscous as a straight 40-weight oil at the operating temperature. All oils are thicker (ie more viscous) when cold than they are when hot - think of them like honey.