Hiro

Either post up the link, or some pictures for us to compare. Remember that the ADM AE112 looks nothing like the AE111 Levin too, so the seller could be selling AE111 parts.

A6x series Celica is indeed 4x114.3 PCD.

Good idea to flush it with hose + tap water before you re-connect the heater hoses, if it's going to leak cool tap water is much better to clean up than hot coolant. If it doesn't leak, but you think there might still be a problem, get it pressure tested (not sure if they can do that with the heater core still in the car). Some cores only leak when the coolant gets hot.

Might have to come along this year then, normally I don't bother with Autosalon but two cars which I both know is a decent incentive

Oil being blown out the rocker cover breather generally means that there's blow-by (ie loss of compression due to piston rings, causing the crankcase to become pressurised, which gets forced through the PCV valve into the rocker cover). Normally, that breather gets re-routed back into the intake so the blowby gets burnt again in the combustion process, but since you've got aftermarket carbies in there they probably don't have a fitting for it. So, main options would be to get rid of the filter on the breather, and install a full catch-can setup instead. You'll still have blowby, but the catch-can should be baffled to stop oil being sprayed out the filter on the catch-can (these are illegal by the way in most if not all states, but doesn't stop a lot of people). If you want to be really anal, you'll need to get a fitting of some sort put in the intake to plumb either the breather line back in, or the output line from the catch-can. Oh, and might as well test for compression too. Only takes a few minutes once you know how to do it, and definitely worthwhile in determining the health of your engine

Might be wheel bearings too. Jack the front of the car up, lock the steering (ie turn the key to LOCK and wiggle the steering wheel to lock it), put it into 4th (if it's manual), and grab one of the front wheels at 12 and 6 o'clock. Then, try and wiggle the wheel in and out. Then repeat with with your hands at 9 and 3 o'clock, and for the wheel on the other side. Faulty wheel bearings will make the wheel rock, if it's stiff and doesn't move then they're probably ok.

Would normally go to this, except it's the same day as the annual Twincam Bathurst cruise, which I never miss. For those who do go, keep an eye out for Ed's (ed_jza80 on Toymods) 1UZ Supra. If it runs, you better have earmuffs for the noise, and something to pick your jaw off the ground afterwards. Upwards of 500HP at the wheels, 9500rpm, N/A V8.

The fact that it's RWD is irrevelant though. It'd be like trying to use a ZZW31 as a basis for making a 1ZZ RWD in an AE86. Useles (well, no more use than your bog standard ZZE122 Corolla)

Unless you have a super modern auto (like a DSG or 7-speed or the like), manual will be better for fuel consumption, by far. Notice that just about every new car listing shows better fuel consumption for the manual model than the auto. Autos lose more power in the driveline, thus need more power to be made in order to go as fast as a manual.

I would have thought it would have been more obvious that all the Caltex fuels had been lobbed into one, considering the number of people who'd use Caltex (esp. Vortex) compared to E10

suggest you speak to this guy Link on Twincam.org Not really worth it considering thats a BEAMS 3SGE, which is naturally north-south RWD in the RS200 Altezza. No 3SGTE was ever found in n/s RWD format, they were all east-west. SW20 MR2 (as with all MR2s) is essentially FWD just with the engine at the other end of the car. Uses FWD gearbox, transverse engine etc. So using an MR2 as an example of a RWD 3S is essentially useless unless you're only talking about MR2s.

Is this for a GT4 or a full transplant into a RWD vehicle? If it's just converting the GT4 from AWD to RWD, then a W-series gearbox is an impossibility. It's a longitudinal (ie north-south) gearbox, whilst the engine is transverse (ie east-west) and needs a FWD-style gearbox. Playing around with the AWD gearbox is a possibility, I'm sure someone somewhere along the line has done it, but why do you want to lose AWD? And if it's going into a completely different RWD chassis, then you've got a long long hard road ahead of you, with plenty of money spent too. RWD-converting a 3SGTE is one of the biggest pains in the neck you can do with a Toyota.

Technically, if it's a stock 2.4L it's an RT142, with the 22RE engine and EFI. ST141 is 2SC carby motor, but basically same body. The RT model had better driveline from memory too, as well as the option for an IRS + disk rear end.

All this talk of Oran Park closing, but isn't the guy who owns it going to build a new track a bit further out of town, so apart from a few year gap in the middle, things will continue as normal? Plus there's still the on-going issue of the proposed Ringwood track at Raymond Terrace.

Does the RT142 Avante (with IRS) have a disc rear end? Might be able to swap the whole lot over if it does. Try A6x Celicas too, pretty much the same driveline. MA61 Supras got rear discs, and that whole rear end should drop in, but it'll be expensive.

A Short Ram Intake is absolutely useless as far as a cold air intake goes, it's basically a pod and a short bit of pipe sitting in the engine bay sucking in all that hot air. It's mostly a marketing gimmick that uses the name of an induction technique from the sixties and seventies on American muscle cars (the Ram Air ones with the bonnet scoops, like the GTO), and really only increases induction noise and could actually lose power over a stock intake with decent panel filter.

I'm running a pod filter in the guard behind the front bumper, where the resonator sits in the stock intake. From that, there's an alloy pipe that runs from the pod through the hole in the guard next to the battery straight to the part of the stock pipe that runs from the t/b to the stock airbox. Doing it this way means that you have to shift your battery (and modify the clamp to keep it held down, I'm only using cable ties at the moment), but it also means you only need one simple bend in the pipe. There's a hole in the pipe too for the bung + intake air temp sensor that normally plugs into the airbox, so it still all works as a proper CAI.

Just so you don't confuse parts interpreters, it's a MAP sensor, not a MAF. Very different things (MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure, MAF = Mass Air Flow)

Top Fuelers don't actually have 2 or 3 speed gearboxes, they have a single speed with a lockup centrifugal clutch setup that progressively engages down the run. Doorslammers etc usually have a 2-speed gearbox activated by a button on the steering wheel or dashboard, not a conventional shifter.

http://www.nihoncar.com/en/news-810-The+Au...ralia!.html YIKES!!! They've done a rwd conversion!!!! Whats the bet it's just a silhouette shell just like NASCAR (and the GAS Camry, for a more local example) running a tubular spaceframe chassis and 2JZGTE. So basically nothing to do with an Aurion at all, except that it looks a bit like one.

Ahh, good old Newcastle, still on Stage....ummm..Zero. Water restrictions? What water restrictions?

1989 could make it either an AE82 or AE92. Either way, the 4AGE was NOT standard in the CSX, it was reserved entirely for the Twincam (AE82) and SX (AE92) spec models.

New Hilii and Hiaces have the 2TR-FE engine, not the 3RZ. The key is the VVT-i, which the RZ-family never had. Thus, most (if not all) of the bolt-on kits for older models (which would be for the 3RZ) would not work. Then again, considering America's love with turbo-ing and supercharging truck motors (looooots of history with the R-series, and the RZ), it won't be long before heaps of stuff is out for the 2TR, if it isn't already.

Carmate body kits, especially those for the AE10x, make my eyes bleed. Best thing you can do for an AE10x is an FX-GT front bar, and maybe side skirts. Almost everything aftermarket out there is downright awful.

For a manual, if you're in neutral no damage to the engine can occur whatsoever, because there is no link between the wheels and the engine. No gears are meshing in the gearbox, and thus no drive is being transmitted either way. As for autos, neutral is acheived completely completely differently (never been a fan of autos, and they are incredibly complex things thus hard to explain simply, but it has to do with clutch packs and the torque converter/fluid coupling) but the effect is the same - the engine is disconnected from the wheels. Damage to the engine caused by the wheels doing the driving could only occur if the car is in gear, and the engine turned off. But then, it's just acting as an air pump, exactly the same as 99% of belt-driven piston type air compressors. If anything, the above would cause damage to the transmission, not the engine.