Hiro

Easy way to spot Sydney drivers is by the size of their biceps and pecs from doing pushups on the horn.

The older, boxier MX6 had turbo and 4WS, and they were HORRIBLE. The later MX6, which was badge-engineered into the Ford (anal) Probe, was non-turbo V6, and a hell of a lot better. Just a bit overweight tis all, but an excellent cruiser/tourer.

I always find it funny when people try and say that a FWD car has a fan belt.........

Pretty sure the UK car is a slightly different shape body to the aussie one. Better to check out the Bates one, but its not street legal Fensport 3SGTE 4WD ZZE122 Looks like a standard ZZE to me, they used the 5-door body shape as opposed to the 3-door T-Sport that we didn't get here.

agreed. mx5 outclasses it in almost every aspect ! It is also at least 2, and up to 25 years NEWER than the AE86. AE86 lasted till 1987 in Japan, MX5 started in 1989. Of course the newer car is going to be better

Bill Sherwood was driving this wasn't he?

If you overfill the sump then it is possible for oil to get so churned up by the crank that it can get spat out the PCV valve into your intake, which would cause the smoke.

Quoted for truth. Most traction control and vehicle stability control systems work through the ABS system. ABS allows monitoring of individual wheel conditions, thus coupled with independent brake actuation (say with EBD - electronic brakeforce distribution), the braking power of each wheel can be adjusted to settle the car and keep it stable. Active suspension is still a few years away from being standard on most cars, you tend to have to pay over $100k for a car that has it (as it's usually a luxury feature) As an aside, older cars with traction control that didn't have ABS would retard or cut the ignition to reduce power, as opposed to applying individual brakes. This is somewhat akin to taking pulling the power plug out from a computer because it won't shut down. Modern systems are much more effective, and much more complex.

Correct Ok people, here's what it is In a standard 4-speed auto, there are 4 gear ratios. 1, 2, 3, 4. If you put transmission in L, it will stay in first gear. If you put it in 2, it will not shift higher than 2nd, but will drop to first if necessary. If the car is in D, and overdrive OFF, the car will use 1st, 2nd and 3rd as necessary. When you turn overdrive ON, 4th gear becomes available. The reason it is called overdrive is because 4th gear is a gear ratio less than 1:1 in the gearbox. I don't know off the top of my head what the actual ratios are, but they'll be something like this First 3.5:1 Second 2.7:1 Third 1.8:1 Fourth 0.8:1 It is called overdrive because the engine is overdriving (ie spinning the output much faster than the input) the transmission. Greater than 1:1 (ie first, second and third) are called underdrive, as the output is spinning slower than the input. Now, the reason there is an O/D off switch is threefold. 1) In city driving, you're not going to get into fourth that much. Thus, to stop the transmission going into fourth and then kicking back to third because speeds aren't high enough and the engine is bogging down, turning O/D off will keep the transmission in 3rd or lower. 2) In towing conditions, the added weight and drag of the towed vehicle (ie trailer, caravan etc) means that the car will struggle to pull in 4th gear. Thus, overdrive is turned off to keep the revs up. 3) In hilly high-speed driving (ie open road highway, bits of the freeway), the engine will happily cruise in fourth but will have to kick back to third for hills. Now, if the hill is long enough, the car may get enough speed back up for the transmission to shift into fourth. It'll then bog down, and shift back to third, and this process will continue. This is called HUNTING, because the gearbox hunts up and down between the ratios trying to find the best gear. Turning overdrive OFF will keep the transmission from shifting into fourth, and make it easier to get over the hill In most other conditions (ie flat open road, >70km/h), it is best to turn overdrive ON so that the transmission can shift into 4th and achieve maximum possible fuel economy. Here endeth the lesson

Changing an exhaust will often shift the powerband of the engine, either up or down (it depends on the engine, and what the stock exhaust was like). A lot of aftermarket exhausts will give the car better power up high (due to cleaner flow) but as a result you may lose torque down loe.

3 smaller inlet valves, 2 larger exhaust valves. It's pretty simple. It's not a case of one set being "slower" than another. 5-valve engines are fairly rare (20V Corollas, some Audis and VWs and the odd Ferrari), but there are tonnes of engines going around with an odd number of valves. Just about every Merc V8 made in the past 20 years has 3 valves per cylinder, and the SOHC V8 found in the BA Falcon was 3-valve.

This isn't surprising, as there are cars where this feature comes standard. The main one that springs to my mind (mainly because I want one) is a U13 SSS Bluebird

No, if the magnet doesn't stick it means the panel has been bogged over (or at least that part), or it's plastic. A completely new panel, or one that has bee beaten back into shape (if necessary) and then re-painted, will still attract the magnet.

There's no such thing as a 2.0L 4AGE, all 4As are 1.6L and no A-series engine was released larger than 1.8L (the 7AFE). You may be getting confused with the 20V 4AGEs, which are still 1.6L, or the 2.0L 3SGE, none of which have 160kw (the RWD blacktop 3SGE BEAMS has 150-odd kw, but there is no way that it'd go into an AE92). It is possible that it is one of the above engines with a turbo added, but definitely not N/A, and definitely not a 2.0L 4A thankyou for that..... extremely detailed cry u had, lol does it look like i care, im just a p plater who wants more powr, doesnt matter neway. as far as i know there is a 2ltr 4age but ur prolly right, all i know is what i have been told, i know a bit about cars but hardly sh*t about the seca. another thing, how do you have a 20 valve 1.6l??? lol wot would that be, 5 valves per cyl? so thats 3 intake valves and 2 exhaust valves?? lol You asked for help, got it (and then some), and now you're whinging about it? Sounds like you're the one having the cry. You say that you don't care, and that you're just a P-plater who wants more power, yet you seemed to care a heck of a lot when I pointed out that this 2.0L 4A didn't exist. You say you don't know **** about the Seca, yet you complain when someone with more knowledge and experience corrects you. The reason why I pointed out the problem with your post is that it is better to find out now then go and buy something and either be ripped off (because it's not what you thought it was) or end up with a chunk of metal that is totally inappropriate to what you want (it was what you thought it was, but not what you thought you needed). In short, I corrected a mistake (or in this case, assumption/hearsay) to stop you getting burnt in the future. And as JP already pointed out, there is such a thing as a 20 valve 4A. There are two of them, in fact (silvertop and blacktop). And if you think I'm just having another detailed cry, then I don't care. You obviously don't care what we say, so don't expect too much help in the future.

There's no such thing as a 2.0L 4AGE, all 4As are 1.6L and no A-series engine was released larger than 1.8L (the 7AFE). You may be getting confused with the 20V 4AGEs, which are still 1.6L, or the 2.0L 3SGE, none of which have 160kw (the RWD blacktop 3SGE BEAMS has 150-odd kw, but there is no way that it'd go into an AE92). It is possible that it is one of the above engines with a turbo added, but definitely not N/A, and definitely not a 2.0L 4A

In the big water channels of the tyre (aka the ones that run the whole way around the tyre), there will be wear indicators every 30cm or so. They are little chunks of rubber about 1.5mm thick. Once your tread gets down to the level of these indicators, your tyres are no longer legal. So as a quick check, find one of these water channels, and run your finger around till you hit a wear indicator. If the tread is higher than the indicator, you're fine. Remember to check the inside and outside shoulders of the tyre, and all the way around to check for flat spots and camber wear

If you were drunk, it wouldn't matter

There is, it's called Sepang. They had a little race there last weekend that you might have seen on Channel 10, called the F1

Yeah I know, but I checked with my dad (he owned it before I did) and he never had the pads changed in the 220k that he drove it, and I've certainly never had them done under my watch until now. Rotors have been machined because they were warped, but the pads weren't changed (and that was only 30k or so ago). The reason they lasted so long is that for those first 220,000km it was country driving, 300km each way with a brake at each end once a week and 50km to and from the mine each day, car was doing 1000km a week. Very little wear on the pads that way

I've got two, but could only vote for one obviously 1) 1997 AE102 (therefore 9-10 years old). Absolutely faultless, steering rack is starting to go now but the CVs are still fine, and I only just changed the ORIGINAL brake pads the other week after 285,000km of driving. 9.5/10 2) 1986 AE82 Twincam Seca (>11 years old). Only just bought it, got a few problems under it's belt such as rust, power steering leak, neither heater nor aircon are hooked up, tint is bad, paint is patchy, seems like there is not one screw holding the dash together, the headunit that was in it was a pile of Sony crap that refused to work properly, starter motor is on it's way out, but by hell does it go like a shower of sh*t when you open the taps. I still can't work out which would be faster out of it and the 102, the 102 has the torque down low but nothing up high, whereas the 82 is the complete opposite

Pretty sure Corollas used H4s for around 15 years (after they stopped using sealed beams that is), I think they changed with the AE112s

If you're just after the wiring diagrams I've got them for an AE102 on my Photobucket album, the engine ones should be basically the same for the 112. AE102 wiring diagrams

That sounds exactly like the indicator canceling notches. There is the normal indicator ticking noise that happens whenever the indicator is on, in time with the flashing, and comes from the dash. When you turn the steering wheel with the indicator on, it will make a clicking noise every time the wheel turns past one of the notches in the combination switch assembly. These notches automatically turn off the indicators after you turn the wheel back in the opposite direction after making the turn. This noise comes from the steering wheel, or more exactly the combination switch (ie indicator switch, windscreen wiper stalk etc) immediately behind the steering wheel. Think of a ratchet. Imagine you are turning left, with the left indicator on. You can turn the steering wheel to the left as much as you want without the indicator turning off, but as soon as it begins to turn back to the right the indicator turns off. This is because of the ratchet action of those notches. Notice also that if you indicate and go around a wide gentle corner the indicators don't always turn off, this is because the wheel hasn't been turned far enough to hear the first click, and hence the self-cancelling function doesn't work.

What the hell is a schcrow? Do you mean synchro?

It's not so much that the Aussie dollar is strong, it's the fact that the US dollar is going down the toilet, and has been for a while now.