Hiro

Did you re-use the washers from the old filter or put the new ones in? They should always be replaced each time.

LOLCANO Thread from the dead? 3 years is a long time, even for a lolcano.

Don't have photoshop and can't be bothered with mad Paint skills (at work you see), but in that photo above the timing gear cover is the black plastic shield/cover thing on the end of the head, directly above (photo-wise) the windscreen washer bottle. That's usually where timing belt replacement stickers are placed. If not, then just look everywhere on the head for a sticker.

Shouldn't need a scanner, A-series engines give you their codes via the Check Engine Light on the dash cluster, once you bridge the T and E1 terminals in the diagnostics port with the appropriate Special Service Tool (aka a paperclip). I've got the 7AFE engine codes in my Gregorys, not sure if they're the same as the 7AFTE ones though. Hesitation at high rpm sounds like either fuel or ignition to me, could be low fuel pressure/blocked fuel filter. Those sorts of things won't show up on the CEL code though.

I see a black stretch one around Newcastle all the time, there's a local company that does them (Hunter Hummers), really popular for weddings, formals etc. Would have to park one of the suckers though, let alone try a roundabout (semi trailers are articulated for a reason......)

Why rare? Most of the ST162s sold in Australia were the SX variant, with the 3SGE. And they're quite common. Finding one in good nick is the real trouble.

Isn't it the other way around? As far as I can remember, peak torque in the 102 happens at 2800, as opposed to around 4800 in the 112. Which would explain the supposed increase in power - same peak torque figure but at higher revs = more power.

How could you not win awards with the two best Toyotas of the show right opposite each other?

Castle Hill Toyota is the main place in Sydney to get TRD parts, I think Penrith Toyota used to do it too but no idea if they still do. As for stuff for a '95 CSX, is it the 1.8 or the 1.6? Either way, there's not much on the shelf for the ADM Ae10x models, main things you can do are full exhaust, cold air intake, short shifter, and then proper suspension (strut brace, KYB struts, whatever springs you want and maybe a stiffer roll-bar or two). Anything above that and you start getting into custom territory, there's nowhere near as much aftermarket support for these models as either the AE92s or the ZZE122/23s

Why do you reckon yours will get less? History tends to show 112s actually have more power than the 102s, plus mine is more than a little tired (coming up on 295,000km) And yes, it does need to be lowered. Saving up for springs and shocks as we speak, but there are things that need to be done first (like organising passport for a cruise, and getting CVs/bushes fixed)

Can't be ****d. Don't do enough driving at night outside the city to make it worthwhile either. And if you see how strong the high-beams are, you'll know that HIDs aren't really needed anyway :P

Wow, forgotten how long it's been since I've updated this thing.... Well, here goes: January this year: First: Car now has full exhaust system installed, care of Davo's now departed granny-spec 102 Thusly, HPC coated extractors 2" engine pipe to cat 2 1/4" through hotdog resonator to s/s Lukey Ultraflow Big dumpy tip Much better sound More power Was dyno-ed at Toymods Dyno Day #16, hit a new high of 71.0kw, which is either an increase of 2.1 or 10kw, depending on which previous dyno result is taken. Personally I'd estimate the actual value to be somewhere around the 5kw mark Since then, it has also received a nice not-shiny CAI (also from the ex-Davomobile) and K&N pod behind the front guard, comes complete with ghetto-spec cable-tiedowns for the battery as it no longer lines up with the pre-drilled holes in the body (really should fix this, but can't be bothered for the moment) Some photos Some around March this year: Finally got around to wiring up the halos the other day.....well, actually months ago, but forogt to post them up here, been meaning to do this ever since I installed the lights themselves. Pics tell the story And yesterday: Over the course of the past month or so, it seems my starter motor has slowly been dying. If the car is left on but not running for a while (aka lights on, or radio etc going), the car will fail to start, yet the battery is perfectly fine voltage-wise and everything else electric in the car still worked no problems. However, turn the ignition and you're greeted with a "clickclickclickclickclick" from the gearbox area. This inability to start led me to clutch-starting it on more than one occasion, and always attempting to park it within easy pushing distance of a nice down-hill slope. Figuring that it's an internal problem with the starter and nothing to do with the battery, I didn't consider jump-starting as an option, although finally I decided to give it a go (it's impossible to push the car out of my driveway without two people pushing and one person steering) and it worked fine. So that then led me to believe that the starter motor needed a good healthy fully charged battery (or alternatively a nice healthy 14.4v running engine+alternator) to start - a discharged battery (even only minor) would not provide enough kick (but would probably run a brand new starter just fine). So I got Davo's old starter motor from Sam/WTF33R, and installed that over the weekend. By some miracle, no bolts snapped, no leaks of any kind, only one round of WD40 was needed, and although access was tight (my hands are rather huge) I managed to get it out without removing exhaust or intake. New(er) starter motor in (much easier task), started it up, and was greeted with a lovely screeching noise, almost like a slipping belt. It went away as soon as the starter pinion detached, but still wasn't what I wanted to hear. Although it's gotten better with time, could just be the internal lubricant has dried up or a bit of surface rust on stuff, hopefully with a few more starts under it's belt it'll go away completely

What exactly are the starting problems? Cranks fine but takes ages to catch? Or sluggish cranking. Could well be either the battery, starter motor or alternator are dying.

The wheels from a ZZE122/123 (since you said 16", I'm guessing you're referring to the Sportivo mags) will fit on a 112, no problems. Offset and PCD are basically the same all the way from AE82 to ZZE122. Anything under 7" and you shouldn't have to worry about scrubbing either.

Got the Aerotwins on the weekend, I must admit they do look a bit ugly (maybe just not used to them) from the inside, but they do a damn sight better job of cleaning the windscreen than the Aunger ones I had on there before.....and less noise too.

Considering he said he fixed the problem by fixing the connection to the VACUUM SENSOR, aka MAP sensor, this means that a ) the problem is fixed b ) he doesn't have an air flow meter, or AFM (AE92s had MAP sensors)

Sorry to be such a noob, but where is the timing cover in this model camry? The timing cover is the plastic cover that goes over the cam gears and timing belt, it's on the end of the head and block at the opposite end of the engine to the gearbox......so, if my memory of the 5SFE serves me correctly, it should be on the left hand side (if you're standing in front of the car and looking under the bonnet) of the engine.

Could be any number of flogged-out bushes in the front suspension too. Don't be so quick to assume it's the shocks. Easiest way to test for stuffed shocks is to press down on each corner of the car one at a time and let go and see how it rebounds. If the car settles within one bounce, then the shocks are fine. If it bobbles up and down a few times (as if there was no shocks, just springs), then the shocks are stuffed.

If the belt has been changed by a dealer or decent mechanic they usually put a sticker on the timing cover saying when the belt was changed (date and kms) and when the next belt change is due. Normally they get changed every 100,000km or so, so unless you're around a x00,000 mark (ie 100, 200, 300 etc) the timing belt won't be an issue. It is a big job though, fair bit of labour and often best to change water pump and crank seals at the same time too.

3s-GE engine is ok but if you got the extra coin dump an SR-20 in the chassi can handle it and it's a lot better engine :D prob can't say that though as it isn't a toyota engine oh well!!! First time I've ever seen an SR20 mentioned as an engine for a ST162. And saying it's a lot better engine is a load of crap, the 3SGE is extremely capable and well supported by aftermarket component manufacturers. Sure, the first-gen engine found in the 162 ain't flash, but neither is an old SR20DE. Both became a lot better with age, although logic should dictate that you stick with the 3S as everything just bolts in. SR20 conversion is pointless as it raises sooo many issues to be dealt with (completely custom mounts, wiring, intake, exhaust, gearbox etc) for no real gain over a proper 3SGE.

First ones definitely, in my opinion all wheels should have some kind of lip on them. Flat-faced wheels with no lip look like hubcaps half the time, or like they stick out past the tyre if you're running a low sidewall profile. Also, imagine what happens to the Diablos the first time you scrape the gutter.....

Distance to empty can be misleading, generally most cars will fuel-starve (ie DIE) when going around corners/roundabouts/up hills with up to 5L left in the tank - does distance to empty take this into account? And how do you know that the car came with a FULL tank of petrol? The gauge said so? Remember that needle fuel gauges are horribly inaccurate, and often inconsistent. I've dreamt of an invention that measures the consumption of petrol by comparing flow rate into and out of the fuel rail, and doing a bit of magic to then calculate fuel consumption and distance/litres to empty. Should be fairly simple if you know the signals from the ECU and a bit of electronics, but I can't be ****d making it :P

there's also drain plugs on the radiator and engine block for exactly that. no need to remove hoses. however, just using plain tap water is one thing that can contribute to corrosion in your engine. If you have crappy tap water (ie really hard or really soft, both affect performance either through corrosion or calcification), maybe. If you leave coolant in the engine long enough without flushing it so that tap water becomes a corrosion factor though, you're an idiot. Flush your coolant every fourth oil change or so (20-40,000km), it's not that expensive ($20 for coolant, tap water is essentially free) and it'll be fine. Coolants these days has corrosion inhibitors in it anyway. And half the time the drain plugs on the engine block are either really hard to get to, or pour onto something vital, or both in the case of a 4AGE. Up next to the oil filter, which means UNDER the distributor, UNDER the exhaust manifold, and directly ABOVE the air-con compressor. So you rip your hand open just trying to reach the bloody thing, and then when you finally get it open it dumps 5L of lovely coolant straight onto the air-con compressor, which in my books isn't a good thing. 4A/7AFEs are only slightly better, they have more room since the distributor is at the end of the head, but the air-con compressor is still in the same spot.....

If there's no chassis damage, possibly just buy an old clunker/rust-bucket with the right parts and swap them over? Should be able to get an RA65 that's been rear-ended or something relatively cheap

Flushing the cooling system yourself is no hard task, all you need is a hose. Just stick it in the top radiator hose, disconnect the bottom radiator hose (depending on the system and it's location you might need to remove the thermostat too, so you get full circulation), open the heater tap as well, and just flush until the water coming out turns clear. When you do this, always use concentrated coolant to fill it back up, so you can account for the water still in the block and heater core. Pre-mix coolant is really only useful for topping up.