Hiro

Most cars will do this, it's because the handbrake only operates the rear wheel brakes whilst the normal foot brake operates both front and rear (with a bias to the front). So if you park on a hill (even a slight one), the reduction in braking ability will cause the car to rock back onto the rear wheels, with appropriate weight transfer as well.

The covers are going to be alloy, and aluminium alloy is self-passivating, so no rust (not your traditional rusty brown rust anyway)

My 1997 AE102 had 5 1/4" speakers in the front doors...... The VDO Dayton splits that I bought for the front fitted right in to the exact same mounting holes, no spacers required Rear speakers in the AE102 were 6" too, on the back shelf (sedan obviously)

Soldering is far from permanent. Heat it up again, and suck it out with a solder-sucker and you're back to square one Arhh yes but you're not going to undo any work you've spent the time to complete unless you're removing the entire audio system for reselling the car. Because it'd be a waste of time and effort. :P Waste of time and effort? It takes all of 10 seconds to undo a soldered connection, assuming the iron is hot. It's very convenient if you've made a mistake and cross-wired or something similar, or want to add an amp or something like that down the line. Removing the whole system for re-sale is not the only time you'd want to be altering your wiring

Soldering is far from permanent. Heat it up again, and suck it out with a solder-sucker and you're back to square one

Best place for this kind of info and community is Toymods, there's a big bunch of Z10 and Z20 drivers over there, plus a veritable mountain-load of experience with the 1G and M-series engines. Be warned, the application process can be quite frustrating though

Your best bet would be Twincam, they have a lot of knowledge there for both AE82 and AE92 Toyotas, plus a large and geographically diverse (across Australia, not the world) member group, so chances are there are people in your area that could be willing to lend a hand with any problems. Just don't be a *******, ****** or asshat, make sure you search the forums before posting about a problem (chances are someone has already come across it and posted a solution), and you should be fine Twincam.org

$650 sounds like utter bull**** to me. Anyway, installing a tacho is easy-as, as long as you know your way around wiring. The tacho will have several wires running from it, you need to hook them up to the following sources Ignition-switched 12V Ground Headlight-switched 12V (for the backlight, just tap one of the dash-lights) Ignition signal (-ve side of the ignition coil) Make sure the switch on the back of the tacho (if it has one, which it should) is set to 4-cyl Physically installing it depends on where and what you want to bolt it to, or whether you want a gauge pod or whatever)

If the OP had a TA22, then I would agree with something like a 4AGE. However, he has an RA28, and a 4A will leave him wanting for more torque. 18RGs are common to slot in as they are a drop-in replacement for the 18RC already in there, and will give a big improvement over the RC. Saying that a 6-cylinder will make the car too nose-heavy is a bit of a rort though, many people have put in a 1G (2.0L straight six Toyota engine from Supras/Soarers) with no problems handling-wise, and there is a rather famous green RA28 doing hillclimbs with a 1JZGTE.

Next to, if not, impossible. JZ series is RWD, Caldina 4WD drivetrain is front-wheel drive setup. Good luck fitting an east-west gearbox behind a north-south engine. Or if you're wanting to do this in a Caldina, good luck fitting a north-south engine in a bay designed for an east-west one

Targa is all about completing the stage as close to a specified time as possible, whilst not going under/faster. The base time for a stage is set by applying an average speed limit (no more than 137km/h) to the stage, based on the terrain (and can be modified in inclement weather). You can go slower/longer than this time by as much as you want, up until the late time limit. From memory, there are a few bits where speed is restricted, but since the whole course is run on blocked-off roads, and with the blessing of the government, speed is not limited any more than by the time limit

If it was the drive belt (timing belt or accessories?), why the hell did you think it was coming from the rear of the car? OR If the noise is coming from the rear of the car, why do Toyota think it's something in the engine bay

Go to Twincam.info, look up Davo's AE102 member's ride thread. He's dyno-ing around the 80kw ATW mark with minor headwork, exhaust/intake and an eManage, on the FE head. Very worthwhile as an idea about how far you can go on stock or modified stock components without going for a GE head or turbo

Corollas have had hydraulic clutches ever since the AE71 in 1984. No idea why you think it has a cable clutch

From memory the peak power is at about 5600rpm, really no point to stretch it to redline in around-town driving, considering that peak torque is around 2800rpm. At redline, the engine is really struggling to breathe so it's not worthwhile pushing it any further. On the other hand, chuck a C56 in there and make her breath a bit better with some extractors and head-work, and it'll love being revved that high - everyone underestimates the 7AFE, yet one of my mates (Davo on Twincam.org) has one that dyno's higher than a stock smallport 4AGE with just headwork, exhaust and an eManage, and with much better torque too

If it's something that you do all the time, then there is not much point trying to alter it. Car-bra might help with the leading edge of the bonnet and the headlights, but the rest of the bonnet is still going to cop a hiding. My AE102 was originally my dad's, and he racked up a good 1000km a week driving it up to Mudgee and back, which is entirely open road highway full of coal trucks, and it's got a million and one stone chips on the bonnet. If you spend the time and clean them all up, and put some cover-up paint over the top, guaranteed a week will go by and then they'll start appearing like clockwork. Better to just accept it and move on.

Multi-point IS electronic fuel injection. The word multi-point is pretty much useless these days since no-one uses central-point or throttle-body injection, and most people don't even know what they mean As has been said before though, the engine in the SXV10 was only ever the 2.2L 5SFE, same as the one in the ST184 and ST204 Celicas. This was also used in the SXV20, but was replaced with the 2AZ for the ACV36

I normally run mid 8s around town, and thats a lot of 10km trips to and from uni, plus booting it fairly often. Best I've ever got was low 6s on the Twincam Bathurst cruise two years ago, which surprised me because it involved more than it's fair share of high-speed driving (the run from Lithgow to Bathurst at 150km/h, and lots of fanging around the track in particular)

Your best is pretty decent for a 102, but how the hell did you get 11.87? Even when I flog mine I can't get worse than 10

no need to change timing belt? ZZE Corollas have a timing chain, not a belt, and this doesn't need to be changed

Unless there has been an engine swap, you have an AE102r, not a 101r. There is a difference. 20V 7AGEs use the standard 4AGE 16V timing belt. 16V 7AGEs use the Porsche belt whats the difference????? i always thought my car was a ae101r???? 1997 corolla seca rv? also wat does the "r" stand for in ae101r and ae102r ...? The 1.6L models (ie 4AFE CSi) are AE101r. The 1.8L models (ie Conquest, Ultima, RV etc) are AE102r. Not positive, but I think that the r stands for right-hand drive. Most Toyota models made in Australia carry the r on the end of the name, but its generally left off from the imports. Could be because Australia manufactures cars for export to countries with LHD (such as the Middle East, where most taxis are Aus-built Camrys)

Unless it's a KE, in which case they should go to Rollaclub I have a foot in every camp (Rollaclub, Twincam, Toymods, here) so I'm happy

Building the chassis from scratch or using an existing frame? Either way, I highly doubt a 1JZ is the most appropriate motor. For power/weight, a 3SGTE is probably going to be your best bet. Anyway, for a xJZ the main options are: W58 - will probably blow up if you turbo it, but would be fine for N/A R154 - huge gearbox, but built for turbo V160 - even huger gearbox, 6-speed, ridiculously expensive, but also built for turbo

Unless there has been an engine swap, you have an AE102r, not a 101r. There is a difference. 20V 7AGEs use the standard 4AGE 16V timing belt. 16V 7AGEs use the Porsche belt

No, it's not. Standard AE102 7AFE exhaust manifold is a crappy cast iron 4-1 log, with a single outlet into the engine pipe. The O2 sensor is located near the top of the engine pipe. Standard AE112 7AFE headers are a tuned-length 4-2 primaries with a dual outlet into the secondaries/engine pipe. The O2 sensor is located in the secondaries Note, AE102 and AE112 factory headers are NOT compatable, although if you swap engine pipes/seconaries over as well they may be. In addition, 112s have a heated 4-wire O2 sensor, whereas the 102s have a non-heated 2-wire sensor. This is why the 112 sensor can be located further from the engine