Hiro

Hiro - 1997 Diamond White AE102 Conquest, 1981 Australia Post Red KE55 SE

Yep, the power you see on the spec sheet is measured at the flywheel, often with no accessories (such as AC pumps, alternator etc) connected to drain power away. The biggest drop comes from the gearbox/final drive, which means power ATW is usually around 20% less than power ATF

Thats only because of the Ice Age you have to wait to get it.........it was fine when I got mine (and I was one of the first)

22, 23 in February.....getting scarily close to 25, which is half-way between 20 and 30....

Can't remember if I've actually posted in here already, and can't be bothered checking... Anyhoo, I'm Ian, aka Hiro (usually only online), aka Rigby (what basically everyone calls me in real life). I was on the Killcare cruise, wearing the "Last Clean Shirt" t-shirt I drive the following: 1997 Diamond white AE102 sedan (cruise-mobile) 1.8L 7AFE, 5sp manual Angel-eye style twin-beam headlights 16" BSA Au229 gunmetal grey mags EL Falcon GT leather Momo gear knob Pioneer DEH-P5650MP head unit, 5" VDO splits, 6" JL 2-way rears Black/grey AMR seat covers Basically stock everything else 1981 Australia Post red KE55 sedan (project future hillclimber/hearing destroyer) 1.3L 4K-C, 4sp manual 14x7" MA61 Supra mags straight-through exhaust to rear cannon (read extremely loud) Home installed Kenwood head unit, 4" fronts, 6x9" rears Rust everything else stock

That, and they're trying to trick the Honduh/drift-crowd into getting invovled just to see an S2000 on dirt.

Great day out (liitle pink though, but I'll survive), turned for home at Kariong though because I wasn't exactly up for an extra hour of driving into Thornleigh and back. Other things highlighted included the blatant fact that my car needs an exhaust and suspension (exhaust'll probably come these holidays though), and that some people are still at Killcare waiting for their burgers Oh, and AE102 sedans are significantly lower in roof height than the average ZZE122 hatch, on stock suspension. Even compared to one dropped on it's guts, it still looked lower.

If everything goes smoothly you can get from Thornleigh to Newy in less than an hour and a half. Freeway trip usually takes around 45 minutes. Of course thats when you're travelling by yourself, and the occasional bit of speeding thrown in, but it won't take too long to get to Terrigal once you get on the open freeway.

Doubt we're going far enough up the freeway to be passing the twin servos

Increased weight + rolling resistance There can be a huge weight difference between stock 14/15" wheels and 17" aftermarket ones with wide tyres.

And probably knows both of them from Twincam

Maybe so, but is it worth the extra $10 over 91, to give almost the same performance and economy? $10 a tank, over a year (assuming 2 weeks/tank) gives a total saving of $260, enough for 4-5 extra full tanks. I'm not saying that there is anything physically wrong with 100, but in most cases it's just not worth it for an engine that was designed to run on 91.

Exactly how worked is that poor 7A? Unless you have some serious, serious mods done to it (exhaust and pod filter are NOT serious mods), 100RON fuel is an extremely expensive waste. Freeway cruising you can get the same economy out of 91 or 95 easily, so the higher grade fuel is a total waste (unless your compression is so high that you need 100, which I highly doubt)

Totally ignoring the fact that the 1ZZ doesn't HAVE lift.....

I'm just trying to clear up some confusion and ambiguity surrounding this. Autos (in particular torque converters) are very complicated devices (I know, I've studied them at uni), and often it is very hard to describe their actions in simple laymans terms. In my limited knowledge of autos, the "brake torque" method being described here is using the brakes to lock the output side of the torque converter to the ground. By applying the brakes, the system can be pre-loaded to prevent shock. Revving the engine once will allow you to press the brake pedal _SLIGHTLY_ harder, this means that the brakes are providing more force to stop rotation of the wheels, and hence allowing more preload into the system. It is NOT a result of brake torque, it's a technique to improve the performance of the "brake torque" technique. The ability to brake harder is not due to the auto or brake-torque itself, it is due to the vacuum boost system used in most modern cars, auto or manual. I'm not trying to say anything about people using autos for drag racing, I know it's extremely common especially with big capacity high-torque engines (try getting a decent strength manual for a V8 drag car that doesn't require He-Man strength to press the clutch or shift). I'm not disputing the technique of loading the transmission up against the brakes and the torque converter, but I'm trying to clear up some people's misconceptions about it. Give me a manual any day of the week though, every car that I've owned and/or driven (including a sequential manual race car) has been manual, and I wouldn't want it any other way.

Bloody torque converters.......Just when you think you have them sussed, they go and do something illogical on you If I never have to deal with an auto, I'll be a happy guy The thing about the pedal sinking further to the floor is to do with the vacuum boost though (note the line about having "Power brakes" aka vacuum-assisted). How hard you can press on the brake pedal has nothing to do with how you rev the engine (or whether it's an auto or a manual, in gear or neutral), apart from the vacuum boost. A lot of vacuum is made when you lift off the accelerator from high revs, giving a large amount of assistance to the brake pedal. More vacuum means less pedal pressure required for the same amount of travel, which is why the pedal will sink slightly (you're still applying the same pressure)

I think you'll find thats actually just the vacuum booster helping out. How the hell can you get "torque braking" when the car is stationary and in neutral? Rev the engine, creates excess vacuum which makes the pedal depress easier, simple. Note that when turned off, the brake pedal goes hard very quickly, as the vacuum boost has been used up. Turn the engine on, and the boost returns

thay are Poly Carbonate plastic! Strong! So they difficult to scratch the plastic Strength is different to hardness. Lexan, the stuff they use in bulletproof glass etc, can be scratched with your fingernail. Polycarbonate is commonly used in CDs, and as everyone knows they scratch right before your eyes. Polycarbonate has toughness, not hardness. This is a good thing, as very hard things tend to be quite brittle, and shatter easily. Glass, for example, which is hard enough to use for crockery (and doesn't get scratched by knives) but drop it on the floor and it will shatter very easily.

Try owning an AE102, there was no sport model (or even a stock bodykit) for the AUDM AE10x at all, and most imported Levin bits don't fit. At least the AE112 guys have the 5-door Levin and Sportivo Turbo to fall back on, and the ZZE122s have the Sportivo hatch for most things (some panels should be common, even for the sedan

Quite fortunate that I was in Swansea at the time, both home and uni got hit pretty bad and I don't park undercover at either location (no room at home, and the multi-storey carpark on the other side of uni)

pretty sure Gen1/2 (or series A/B, whichever way you look at it) are essentially identical apart from front headlights and bumper bars, so windows etc should be fine. As for getting bodykits of an MA41 Supra, I personally wouldn't, as it'd be a much better option fixing up the MA41 in the first place, and they're rare as all hell anyway. A good place to enquire about this kind of Celica, and the 18R engine (and the 18RG) in general is on Toymods, but be wary that the signup is quite intrusive, and there's a good chance you won't get accepted (at least on the first go)

The A4x Celica series is probably the most unloved in Australia, for several reasons. Firstly, the series A hatchbacks (big round headlights) looked like cockroaches, and were about as fast. The series B headlights really fixed things up, but there still wasn't much in the guts department, and it was still a pretty bland model styling-wise. Still, I quite like them, and was actually looking at the one that I'm pretty sure you've just bought from eBay ;) Mostly likely source of original performance parts would be from an MA41 Supra, but they're rare as hens teeth in Australia. Heaps of stuff out there for the 18R though, but bodykits etc would probably have to be custom. Best bet would be to do it up stock, maybe with some tough mags and lowered slightly, but make sure to keep it old-school. Bling does NOT suit an RA40

Argy Tyres (Tyres & More), got them at the same time as I got my wheels for the 102 wouldn't have a clue about semi-slicks, I drive on the road, not the track

My GIIIs were around $210 a corner, thats for a 205/45/R16 profile though, and the price is several months old now. From experience, 50-series tyres should be slightly cheaper

Personally, I reckon there's enough space under the bonnet for at least 5, maybe 6 pod filters. With all of them hooked up to electric superchargers, the induction noise would be terrific, until your battery drains in 15seconds flat. Then again, you'd get just as much benefit from whacking a 10kg bag of rice in the engine bay as "heat insulation"