Hiro

Things to look out for: 1) These have a reputation of killing the ECU, which is a custom $10-15k TOMs unit. They also tend to crack the exhaust manifold 2) Changing the intercooler piping to a more "direct" routing (as opposed to doing a complete loop of the engine bay) can free up some ponies, as can changing out the turbo (it's a tiny IHI unit similar to the ones used on twin-turbo Subarus)

Any car not designed to run on E85 from factory (such as a couple of the newer Holdens) will need an aftermarket ECU and flex-fuel sensor to be able to properly meter the fuel (and if you're doing it to make power you'll need much bigger injectors too). So unless you're going to shell out a couple of grand minimum for a new computer, the answer is a definite no.

Whilst excessive, that is a fairly typical price for a new key fob these days regardless of manufacturer. http://www.drive.com.au/motor-news/the-high-cost-of-losing-your-car-keys-20100813-122qa.html

Are you using the same charger to check both? Make sure the internal fuse in the charger hasn't blown if that's the case...

The reason it says that is because there are other Toyota remotes from around the same time period that look similar (the previous model Camry, and the Corolla for instance) but had the immobiliser chip inside (and had the little metal contacts around the nose of the remote), and thus could be easy to confuse.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Genuine-Car-Remote-TGB-Camry-1997-2000-1-Button-/251251370914?hash=item3a7fbfaba2:m:m1JOhnlstmO7CraaYVddYrQ $87 for a genuine remote, with battery, free postage, and with instructions on how to program it without an existing remote. That is the EXACT one I bought earlier this year.

You can buy a whole new remote locking kit for $8??

Check both spark and timing - it could be so far out that you have the Big 3 (fuel, air, spark) but they aren't happening at the right time for it to work.

Had this exact issue when we bought Kevin. If you buy a genuine one off eBay (as I did), most of them will come with the instructions to match the remote to the car. Since the transponder is in the key-fob rather than the remote, it's a pretty simple process (since you don't have to worry about coding to the immobiliser).

Does it not crank at all? Or just crank and not catch/start.

Might have used plain nuts rather than tapered/shank-style EDIT which is a _really_ bad idea, just in case you were wondering...

Did the seller actually have pictures of them on a Hilux or just said "yeah she'll be right mate"...

Got any photos of the studs? Are you using the right wheel nuts? Are the wheels hub-centric or do you have the appropriate hub-ring to mount them? No i dont, should have taken pics, doh! I was but i don't think any nut other nut would have worked. All 5 studs were making contact to the holes. I have ordered in the appropriate hub rings but again i don't think it would helped. it looked like this when "mounted" lol. If it looks that bad then they are almost certainly 5x120, and no nut or hub-ring will help.

Got any photos of the studs? Are you using the right wheel nuts? Are the wheels hub-centric or do you have the appropriate hub-ring to mount them?

All the information I can find for the YR22 (both Liteace/Spacia and Tarago) points to the ECU being mounted to the passenger-side B-pillar (obviously underneath the trim), behind the seatbelt inertia reel. It can be hard to differentiate on the internet whether stuff is referring to LHD or RHD though so check both sides just in case.

As far as I can tell it is attached to the B-pillar - not a typical location for an ECU which is why your mechanic probably can't find it

Fixed. And I'll fly down from QLD and helpI like this. :D I like it too

Nope no engine changes just yet, depending on what happens I might keep the old 7A and give it a full strip-down rebuild into a 7AGE, would love to do a 7AGZE if i had the patience and money but that's doubtful.

Well, the old girl turned 400 earlier this year, and coming up on her 18th birthday she was really starting to act like most 18 year olds - insolent, lazy, and demanding money all the time. So, I did the maths on what would be needed to get her through the next 12 months to a state where I'd be happy and content with her again, and to say it was a small figure would be lying. In addition, even after all that work I'd still have a 400k+ car at the end of it. So on and off over the last few months I've been trawling eBay and Gumtree on the faint hope that I could get a donor to swap over all the good bits and keep her spirit alive. Didn't think the odds were that great of scoring exactly what I wanted, since most old people don't need a big-block 1.8L manual to drive down to lawn bowls and the RSL every Saturday. Those that were out there were still in the high 200s, and I knew they would be in worse condition than what I've got at the moment (which is saying something). To say I was surprised when I stumbled across what has been temporarily named "Charlene Mark II" is putting it lightly. September '98 build (so 11 months newer than Mark I), with an aftermarket towbar, but in every other way identical. Same model (AE102), same trim (Conquest), same colour (OKA Diamond White), exact same options (air-con, remote central locking, power mirrors, no ABS or airbag), one/two owner from new (husband and wife, compared to my dad and then me), even bought from THE SAME FREAKING DEALERSHIP. Oh, and with only 161,000k on the clock. For those playing at home, that's 240,000k less than what Mark I has. For some cars (not Corollas), that is a lifetime. The price was a little high compared to others on the market, but the condition (excellent, barely a mark on the paint and one tiny dent on the bonnet), history (also excellent), compatability (almost impossible to get better) and mileage meant that I'd be an idiot not to snap it up (plus it had rego until October next year, whereas Charlene Mark I runs out a few days before Christmas). So I did. And here she is. Only blemishes are some slightly oxidised alloy bits in the engine bay, a torn drivers seat (will be putting the Levin seats in) and a saggy headlining (which I'll replace with my professionally re-trimmed one). As bone stock as they come, still with original Fujistu Ten tape-deck, chrome exhaust tip (yes, Conquests came from the factory with a chrome exhaust tip), original uncracked Toyota headlight protectors, a spare wheel well that is whiter than my old exterior was, and a bottle of the original touch-up paint that was still liquid. Plans are to live the stocko life over Christmas, and then take a few days off work in the new year to strip all the goodies off the old girl and have her spirit reborn in the new.

Toymods still runs manual forum application approvals, due to the large quantities of spammers, n00bs and wookies we got over the years.

Considering the new 2.8L diesels are a _brand_ new model you'll struggle to get much off the sticker price. If it was late-model or runout stock then you're in a much more powerful position bargaining-wise, but the dealer has no reason to discount brand new stock.

I am not sure how much dealership would cost and I don't want to spend more than what my car is worth at the moment. Exactly. Check engine light came on in our 04 Corolla about a year ago.Ignored it as car was running fine.Light is still on. I am not advocating the check engine light should be ignored but in our case the car seems fine. Ignoring a check-engine light just because the car "seems fine" is a recipe for disaster. Either something is wrong and you're ignoring it (letting it possibly get worse), or because the CEL is always on you won't notice anything different when something DOES go wrong in the future until it is too late.

Early Discos have the ridiculously huge 5x165 pattern (that was the old-school Range Rover/Defender pattern), later ones drop back down to 5x120

Wheels are most likely 5x114.3/120 multi-stud. Very common with aftermarket wheels.

Sure there isn't a vacuum hose that you forgot to re-connect after swapping the throttle body?