Hiro

Most cars have what is known as a "Positive Crankcase Ventilation" or PCV system. This draws fresh air in from the intake via the breather and circulates it through the crankcase and sump to collect oil vapour and engine blow-by gases (that escape the combustion chamber past the piston rings), carrying it up to the head to stop pressure building up in the sump. This is then sucked in to the intake under vacuum conditions (ie light/no throttle) by the PCV valve (a one-way valve). Some people don't like this vapour being burnt in the engine (it can lead to carbon buildup in the intake etc), so instead they install a catch-can in the PCV line to filter out the oil vapour from the air, which can then be emptied manually or drained back to the sump (depending on the style of the can).

Could be the seals in the master cylinder going, does it get better or worse when the car is warm and driving?

I wonder how much of an effect you'd get if you ran WTA with the water swapped out for refrigerant..... Then again, the gains would almost certainly be offset by the flow restriction/reduction, even in a Laminova-style WTA.

Cheapest/simplest things first - have you had a wheel balance done?

Could just be a quirk of a make-before-break switch, you can do a similar thing with some headlights where it you balance the stalk between low and high you can get both to turn on at the same time (even if your lows normally turn off when the highs come on)

http://toyota-club.net/files/faq/13-01-01_faq_ad-engine_eng.htm From what I can tell, the turbo is different, compression ratio may or may not have changed, changes to injectors and a few other fuel-related bits. More power/torque, too.

Then what would we change the name of the Annual meet too then? :P Not that it happens much any more

2JZGE is MAP not MAF

I've had mechanics charge more for aftermarket parts (not including labour) than I could get Toyota Genuine parts from a dealer for (and a local dealer too, not Sydney or Japan, and Toyota Aus tend to put fairly hefty markups on their parts)

Yes, was a red Series 2 Twincam though

Commodores are notorious for getting air-pockets in the head due to the top of the radiator being lower than the top of the engine which necessitates the bleed valve. If you're ever concerned about this in a car, make sure when you re-fill the coolant to have the front of the car jacked up, and tape a plastic bottle (with the bottom cut off) to the radiator neck to increase the hydraulic head, this will help to drive out any air bubbles in the system (be warned you'll probably end up spilling some coolant when you take the bottle off at the end)

The coupe has never been offered with the V8 anywhere, unless you throw a bucket full of cash at Rhys Millen. A pity really

You should define which models you are talking about and your location. In Australia, 1981 could be either a KE55 or a KE70, and 1978 could be a KE30 or KE55, not to mention all the different variants (coupe, wagon, panel-van, 4-door sedan, 2-door sedan, liftback etc etc)

Also known as a "key-banger"

Historic rego can't be transferred between OWNERS, let alone states. Either he's done a dodgy (and it should have been picked up by the RTA/RMS if he has), or the details are not as you say they are. Trust me, I'm on the board for a car club with Historic Registration and the rules are very strict compared to other states (Victoria was notoriously lax until they tightened things up recently)

NSW has always been 30 years. You might be thinking of Vic rules where it is 25 years.

A '93 Celica won't be elligle for Historic Registration in NSW until 2023, 7 years from now.

Twincam.org is a slightly different story though due to the exodus of all the old members when it got sold years ago. Attempts to revive the original with .org.au only lasted a few years though before it started dying again.

Or maybe hit up a local clutch shop and see if they have any of the free plastic aligners you get in a clutch kit these days, can't imagine they'd have much of a need for them

Yes the 1MZ ran a timing belt. Timing chains, all going well, will last the life of the car and only need changing if they are broken or stretched.

That's not your timing belt - the 2AZ runs a timing chain. That is just the accessories/serpentine belt. A hell of a lot easier and cheaper to replace than a timing belt, might as well change it just for peace of mind.

Firing order should be 1-3-4-2, (1 being closest to the timing belt end), check to see if there are any markings on the dizzy to say which is which.

How big is the plastic cover on the lens? Standard remedy for cloudy plastic is a light application of toothpase

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=Mounting-big-driving-lights-Part-1&A=112903 http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_112904/article.html Turns out resonance and vibration on nudge bars and driving lights is a common issue on any car

Closed at original poster's request