Hiro

Also remember that GVM needs to include tow-ball weight

You may also find that the glass is a different colour even though it is the same shape. Some places may not care about that distinction, others will.

Why should they be easily decipherable by the end user? As an owner you already know the year, model, engine and trim options from the name of the car which is enough to buy parts, the VIN and model codes are for dealers and government systems where computer systems work are a lot more efficient than word-based descriptions. It's like looking at a product code on a blender and wanting to know what all the numbers mean - you're better off just ringing Breville and saying you have a Mixmaster 2000 and let them go hunting through the system for the correct information.

The post you replied to was made 5 years ago, by a member who has not visited these forums since that post was made. Please refrain from necroposting, a direct message to the original seller would have been sufficient. As such, thread is now locked

No such thing as a HJZ105, only HZJ105 (the Landcruiser's chassis code is "J" so it will always be the last letter before the numbers). As for price differences, where are you trying to buy them from? Could be different brands, different spec models (one for auto with a transmission cooler built-in for instance maybe) etc etc

Why should it? Kia uses Hyundai engines, not Toyota, and I highly doubt the problems the Rav4 has are somehow intrinsic to ALL 2.2L diesels....

That recall was for MZ-powered vehicles in Aus - note the mention of Camry V6 (as opposed to Aurion) and the Avalon (only came out in one series). You have the newer GR engine, different family.

It means everything and nothing - there will be a codes relating to the factory it was built in, build date, serial number etc etc and doesn't mean anything to anyone outside of Toyota. The main thing in this case is that it matches on all documentation.

The engine number should be 1NZC******, Toyota don't usually put the full engine spec (ie 1NZ-FE) in their engine numbers. Are the 4 digits after 1NZ-FE on the compliance plate 1497 by any chance?

That's normally displayed as an "instantaneous" fuel consumption figure. Most trip computers Ive seen will have both (instantaneous is really only useful at cruise or long periods of heavy throttle like hills, in city traffic it just bounces from heaps to none and back again) I've mostly driven Jap/RoK and Aus cars (Toyota, Mitsi, Nissan, Hyundai, Ford/Holden etc), the only Euro that I've spent more than 5 minutes behind the wheel is an AH Astra which was pretty pov-pack (didn't even have a temp gauge)

Maybe because that's how average fuel consumption works - all the cars I've driven (not just Toyota) with average fuel readings have to be reset if you want them to start afresh, they're not a short-distance rolling average of the last say 100km, or the current tank of fuel...

Toyota calls them "door checks". If it's a dual-cab ex-fleet vehicle you can pretty much guarantee that every door has been opened and closed (and slammed) many many times, employees don't tend to care about those sort of things.

Bear in mind that on the NZ engines the air-con belt also drives the water pump...

So, over the last few weeks I've been removing bits and pieces mainly from the interior so it could still be driven if necessary, but since the rego has now lapsed and Toyota Nationals is fast approaching I decided it was time to get started on the big stuff. First up was the wheels - still needed rubber between the suspension and the ground so acquired a set of AE82 Twinky S2 wheels for free.....some things from the 80s should stay in the 80s. Had some "fun" getting one of the hub-centric rings off (had to resort to the old boiling-water trick after attempts with a flat-blade screwdriver had turned it into a porcupine instead of a ring). Also, by some miracle one of the tyres had a screw embedded flush in one of the tread blocks but was still holding air some 3 months after it was last driven Then came the front end - lights, Hella grille and FX bumper. Haven't seen the front end this exposed in a _looooong_ time. Figured once the front bar was off I'd might as well get the intake off too, which meant pulling the TRD 3-point strut brace as well. Next up will be cam cover and probably the front half of the exhaust, followed by the suspension which will mark the start of installing on Mark II (since I don't have a spare set of struts around and can't afford to have Mark I sitting on blocks in the driveway).

It's the relief vent to stop air pressure building up in the cabin (if the car was perfectly sealed the fan wouldn't work properly, for instance)

They're starting to get a little dated, plug'n'play is all well and good (except in the Sportivo case of course) but there are a lot more aftermarket ECUs out there for less that are significantly more capable.

There's more to towing capacity than just the weight of the car and the size/power of the engine. If the car isn't designed for the sorts of loads that a heavy trailer can impart through the rear of the chassis then it will never be able to have a high towing capacity even if it weighs 2 tonnes and has a big-block diesel under the bonnet.

Taxis always run higher ks since they don't go through the same number of cold-start cycles that a normal car does.

Double DIN fits well, although not really worth it unless you're getting something with GPS capabilities

First choice would be to try and remove the boot lining (is it hard plastic or carpet?), usually the taillight will have studs that locate it to the body and the nuts for these studs are behind the bootlining, it would be silly to have to remove the bumper just to get at a blown globe.

That, and some of us have more than one car too (or have moved on from the cars still listed in our profiles)...

You seem to be levelling a lot of criticism at Toyota for practices which are routine across the entire car industry - service schedules based off time or ks (whichever comes first) for instance have been standard for decades (oil goes off, brake fluid absorbs water, seals dry out, grease attracts dirt etc etc). Toyota is also no alone in not currently offering CarPlay or Android Auto, afterall it has only been offered on the Australian market in ANY car since the middle of 2015 (barely 6 months ago). If you want to know your rights in regards to servicing with non-genuine parts and warranties etc, go hit up the ACCC. Anything else is hearsay and internet myths/rumours. Under Australian consumer law, you can provide parts to a repairer to use but they are also allowed to refuse to use those parts at their discretion. If they refuse to use parts you supply you have the right to take your business elsewhere, including to independent service centres (which if done correctly will not void warranties).

No, even a cursory search on here will show you that Toyota (and other OEMs) have been a couple of years behind in their maps for a long time now. I think you're trying to hard to find a duplicitous answer when there isn't one.

A quick look on Google seems to show a "stuck in neutral" scenario is not being uncommon, either due to a low clutch fluid scenario, or the clutch stroke or shift sensors are acting up. http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?56638-SMT-problem-can-not-shift-into-any-gear-stuck-in-neutral

TMCA Head office is in Port Melbourne. Taren Point/Caringbah is Sales/Marketing, Eastern Regional office and National Parts office. South Australia is covered by the Central Regional office in Adelaide http://www.toyota.com.au/toyota/company/office-locations