Hiro

I don't think they are. I haven't seen an et45 buddyclub that's 15x8. The wheels in question say Toyota 8FU on them. Perhaps off of an AE112 15x8 isn't a factory-fitted size though. Is the Toyota 8FU stamped/engraved on the wheel or just written on in permanent marker (I can see the AE112 writing but wreckers often just write the model of the car they came off whether they are original or aftermarket)? Actually, are you sure they're 15x8? A close look at the tyre reveals them to be 195 wide which is a slight stretch for an 8" wheel, not what the pictures show

Not sure why you're discounting the 6 as plenty of people have put 1G and even 1JZ/2JZ engines into Hiluxes before. They'll also give you heaps more power than either turboing the 22R or going for a different Toyota 4-banger (either 3S for power or 3RZ from a later Hilux)

The "Check VSC System" error is a standard catch-all error code that comes up for a whole host of different issues. Chances are you've popped a vacuum hose or a sensor has fallen out (explaining the rough idle) when you booted it, so first thing first would be to check for other error codes and do a once-over of the whole engine-bay electrical and vacuum system, looking for anything out of place.

Golden rule with SBC/LS1 conversions - you will NEVER be the first person to try putting one into X car. Ever.

Also, fairly sure Australian remotes differ from the US ones anyway. Best bet would be to go to your local dealer and ask how much they are.

Wallet? Phone? Baby wipes? Bag of pot? This question is about as vague as they come... Klugers are family cars, there will be a dozen little cubby-holes scattered around the cabin for all sorts of odds and ends.

Is the car unlocked? Just pull the hatch release lever next to the driver's seat...unless the hatch has been key-locked. The wreckers should have the keys for it anyway if anyone wanted to buy the lock set.

Changing up a tyre size (65 to 70) has altered your speedo by 3.2%. If that has made you read over, then your speedo was pretty damn accurate to begin with, and not worth mucking around with. And on a 245/70/17 wheel, 5mm of radial tread wear (10mm on diameter) will alter the speedo by 1.3%, which is bugger-all. Again, not worth mucking around with.

Sadly all good things must come to an end, and a combination of a cracked subframe/broken chassis and lack of funds the old girl has now passed on to the other side, on the way donating many of her more desirable organs to eager enthusiasts.

As Trent said, DIN blanking plates or pockets are easily sourced from Repco/Supercheap etc. As an aside there are also double-din top pods for this model Corolla, so if you wanted a DVD/NAV unit where the current radio you can track down one of those and swap it in too - looks a bit uglier but it's very handy having a 5-7" screen that high up on the dash for GPS etc

I'm guessing the 3rd plug on the Jap models is to cater for the extra functions on the Jap dash - rear light failure and catalytic converter temperature warning

FYI the Jap cluster looks like this, note the needles and the 180k speedo

Talked to a mate who's an expert on AE82s, Australian models are 2-plug with the blue PCB whereas the Jap ones (which the majority of the info on the net will be for) are 3-plug with a green PCB Aus Jap No luck on the pinout though, sorry

That looks like the standard AE82 Twincam dash cluster, found on 4AGE-powered Australian-delivered AE82s from 1985/86 to 1989. Generally the Jap-spec ones (FXGT etc) have the needle fully horizontal at 0rpm/kmh, and a 180kmh speedo Unless the issue is number of plugs and the pinout...

I'm not so sure it's the immobiliser - I'm not that familiar with the Jap-made AE112 wiring but the Aus-made AE102 setup has the immobiliser/security system cut power to the starter motor relay, so if the immobiliser isn't deactivated the car will not crank at all. Is the car a manual? If so, give the battery a good charge off a jump-pack and try clutch/push-starting it to rule out the battery terminals. Regardless, give the terminals and battery posts a good clean and make sure they are clamped down tight and try the jump-start again.

Both the charcoal canister and the fuel filter normally live in that cavity, looks like both have been removed and replaced with a single aftermarket inline filter (which are normally designed for low-pressure carby fuel setups and not high-pressure EFI ones), wouldn't be surprised if that fuel filter is leaking due to the pressure. FYI the charcoal canister and EGR aren't necessarily mutually inclusive - Australian-made models had the canister but no EGR

Looks just like a normal Sportivo that someone has put TRD and RSi badges on, the front bumper looks like a crappy aftermarket job. The "limited edition" "won't find another for sale online" is typical BS that people put in ads to try and make their car sound better than the others for sale (and are often lies or distortions of the truth). The fact that essentially nothing exists on the net for a "TRD RSi" limited edition Sportivo sold in Australia (and mostly just shows up results of all the websites this guy is trying to flog his car on) would indicate that it's nothing special.

1) Fuel gauges aren't linear, thus percentages etc aren't a good indicator. Usually the closer to empty on the gauge you get, the less linear it is (due to the shape of the tank) 2) Range-to-empty displays are always conservative. Better to say 0kms to Empty with 5L left in the tank than to run the tank dry with 50km left to go. 2) Range-to-empty calculators are estimates based off past and current consumption rates. If it says 50kms to empty and then you drive 30kms, it won't necessarily say 20kms left I'm not saying you definitely don't have a fault, but it's worth considering that things are never 100% accurate

Are you sure it's even a Sportivo? Sticker/badge-specials are usually base-models up-spec'd to sell off the last remaining models before a facelift or new model comes along. Any links to a For Sale ad or anything?

Manufacturers quote power at the flywheel (ie with no transmission or driveline attached). Most performance workshop use chassis dynos, which measure power at the wheels. A 25% drop in power between the flywheel and the wheels is not that unusual (due to losses in the drivetrain). All dynos are different too. A car will read differently on a Mainline dyno on a hot day compared to a Dyno Dynamics dyno in Shootout Mode on a cold day. Bob's Hot Rod DD dyno will read differently to Pete's Performance DD dyno etc etc

Just about every other car on the road will have a mis-reading speedo (although maybe not by the same amount). They could have been speeding (according to their speedo) too....

As I said on older cars they're usually built into the switch assembly. Pull out the switch unit and have a poke around. If it's not there then it'll most likely be attached to the blower motor up under the dash in the passenger footwell

Tyre shops will try and flog whatever crap they have been told to that month by head office. It's amazing the number of times you go to a tyre shop wanting a decent tyre and the service guy just happens to have put a set of the latest no-name or cheap brand tyres on their WRX or V8 SS ute and raves about them.

In saying that though, my Gregorys manual doesn't differentiate between 4A and 7A and just lists 0.8mm.

4AFE plugs run a 1.1mm gap. 7AFE plugs (aka for the AE102) run 0.8mm. This is probably where the confusion comes from.