Hiro

I'll go worse - it looks like a Queen St car (I've seen that exact same paint scheme on a Queen St S2000) :P Kudos for the effort though, you've got a unique car (that might not be to everyone's taste) and it looks well put-together. Needs more dish/neg offset on the wheels though to make the whitewalls really stand out, they're hidden too far into the guards at the moment which reduces the effect.

Bolt-in wise everything should be fine, but electric things might not be pre-wired/supported if the Executive didn't have them as an option (ie if the Vienta has power windows and the Executive only has manual you'll need all the electric guts of the door as well as wiring, relays, switches etc)

2GR manual conversions in Aurions themselves seem to be pretty rare anyway, let alone a further chassis conversion

This constitutes a For Sale thread and thus breaches the rules for several reasons a: It is not in the For Sale Section b: It does not follow the standard template c: The poster does not meet the requirements to post a For Sale thread Please re-post when you meet these requirements.

When was the topic made and when did you last post in it (roughly)? The search functionality on here isn't the greatest and finding user content generally only goes back ~1-2 years. Your profile says you joined back in 2008 so if you made it back then and it hasn't been updated in years it may be quite hard to find or not even exist any more. Also bear in minds that the admins/mods here have relatively limited power and the forum software is dictated by the global Toyota Owners Club.

That's common for just about every Toyota made in the last 20 years (and quite likely other cars too). Once you get to know the car you can work out exactly how far you can drive with the fuel light on before you _need_ to fill up, it's just practice/experience.

NSW Historic Registration requirement is 30 years, so an '84 model scrapes in. You have to go through a registered club in order to get the rego, there are a bunch of requirements and every club will have their own interpretations on what is allowed and what isn't, but a general rule is that the car has to either be stock or fitted with period extras (some safety equipment is exempt). You're also limited with the amount you can drive it a year (only to authorised events, to the workshop or on "maintenance runs"). Toymods is the main Toyota club in NSW with historic rego, there are other non-specific clubs out there too though, there's a listing on the RMS website Toymods Historic Rego NSW RMS webpage for Historic Registration

How long is a piece of string? Just ring a couple of exhaust shops, tell them exactly what you want and gather quotes.

ST162 or ST184? The 162s are notorious for leaky sunroofs, which very quickly descends into rusty runroof. It may seem excessive, but if you need a new seal then chances are in six months (or six days) time you'll need a new sunroof as the old one will have started rusting (and they all do). One from the wreckers will just delay the inevitable, some people have had luck getting fibreglass ones from Europe but they can be hard to find.

Hate to tell you but the WRC Trophy was just an end-of-life sticker/option pack to help sell the last of the normal FWD 5SFE-powered ST184, not the 4WD turbo 3SGTE ST185. They're about as "limited edition" as a Commodore Lumina or Camry Touring

The gasket and the spark plug tubes/seals are simple things really, the sealant around the half-moon caps is pretty standard too (you don't need to go nuts all the way around but some mechanics/people do, which makes it a real ***** to get off later. If you do order a new gasket (it's more of a giant o-ring than a gasket), consider getting new cam cover acorn nuts/washers too - the rubber seals in the washer like to perish and crumble when you prise them off, and can cause oil leaks if you don't replace them, they should be easily available from the dealer for a couple of bucks

Possibly, but timing belt notices would generally only be in kms not a date (unlike fluid changes which are both), although if the car sits for a long period of time anything can deteriorate.. The cam cover is a cinch to take off (4 nuts, the wiring harness cover and the spark plugs) and is a good thing to do to check out the condition of the engine (mainly looking for burnt/caked/sludgy oil etc). Those fluid lines are the power steering fluid cooler, basically it takes a long enough trip around the engine bay that the fluid cools down before it gets back to the reservoir, no need for a little radiator or anything. Can't hurt to do a full service on it now, might as well do all belts + plugs + leads, and the water pump at the same time as the timing belt just to be sure (the extra labour is minimal)

When a timing belt is changed by a proper mechanic they generall put a sticker somewhere showing when the next belt is due. Toyota would usually put it on the timing belt cover, but other places might put it on the scuttle/firewall/inner guard, or even the driver's door jamb (which is where mine is). In saying that, even though the book says 150,000km when the AE101/102 originally came out Toyota specified 100,000km change intervals, it seems that towards the end of the 90s they changed their standard to 150,000km (my '97 Conquest specifies 100k but information differs on my '99 Camry)

86337-8Y001 sound familiar?

You should have OBD1, which is basically a terminal box in the engine bay labelled DIAGNOSTICS. Inside that are a bunch of jumpers that you bridge with a paperclip or short length of wire - bridging TE1 to E1 is the standard method for pulling error codes from the ECU, which are displayed as coded flashing of the Check Engine light. Simple, but it works. Australia and Japan didn't adopt OBDII until well into the 2000s, the mentions of '96+ on the internet are referring to North American models.

What was the part number of the one you bought? The Avalon one is identical to the Camry for the sedan, I'm not sure about the wagon though (the retainer and motor are probably different but I'd expect the pole/cable to be the same)

Australian 7AFEs aren't OBDII, thus it is useless. You can run diagnostics on our cars with a paperclip.

What has probably happened is that the old cable had snapped off inside the motor and it is jammed in there. Remove the new pole/cable, remove the motor unit from the car and disassemble it (it's only half a dozen screws). Pull apart the winding drum (noting how things go back together) and make sure all remnants of the old cable is removed. Then re-assemble the motor unit back together and put it back in the car, and re-install the new pole and cable as before. I did this a few weeks ago (with genuine parts) and it works fine 95% of the time, occasionally it will graunch for a second or two, but only on extension and only if the initial extend was interrupted (ie I turned the radio on but started the car half-way through)

Seating - RAV4 has traditionally been a 5-seater (even in the long-wheelbase models) but the Kluger is mostly 7-seat. So it's the 7-seat Toyota with car-like handling you buy when you don't want a Tarago and don't want the off-road-capable Prado

Drive-by-wire is the nickname for electronic (as opposed to cable) throttles :P Although really drive-by-wire covers throttle-by-wire, brake-by-wire and steer-by-wire (not electric-assisted), but throttle-by-wire is the only one that really exists on mainstream cars at the present.

I'd say they dropped the V6 because it would have been cannibalising sales from the Kluger (which is 2GR-only)

3 days to go now, if you haven't started polishing your pride and joy now is as good as time as any to start (and the weather is playing nice for a change too) Just a reminder, once the show has started no cars can be moved due to our insurance coverage, so why not make a day of it? And for those who treasure their sleep, don't forget to wind your clocks forward an hour before you go to bed, daylight savings and Toyotafest are an annual tradition.

I'm sure that's what the police would be most worried about...

If you're topping up the radiator once a week you either have a leak or a blown head gasket. Neither are good things and need to be checked out. Whistling sound is most likely a vacuum leak, this is also not a good thing (less critical than the coolant leak) and should also be fixed. Sounds like the whole engine and transmission need a thorough going over and full service, which is probably what one of those $30 checks will tell you (and not much more). It is more than likely that multiple things are wrong and trying to diagnose exactly what will be difficult, so just start at the top and keep going until you get to the bottom.