Hiro

Are you sure KA4 is the incorrect code? Australian cars are often painted with different codes compared to US/Japan (which is where most of the info on the net comes from), I know my 1997 Corolla (and a lot of other 90s Australian Toyotas) is painted in 0KA Diamond White yet US sites usually only list 040 Super White for that year

I can see it being very popular with the classic muscle car scene.... More interested in the new import plates, not for style (normal plain black on white) but for size - finally NSW will have a plate that fits in the back recess of a JDM import without the need for cutting or bending the plate.

You'll find it'll probably be ~70-80kw at the wheels. 135kw at the flywheel (I hope that is what he was estimating, if it's at the wheels he's been huffing too much paint. HP instead of kW is another possible option) is a massive reach for a car which only had 100kw from the factory, and the intake/exhaust usually only adds ~5-10kw. Best 16V result I've seen on a DD dyno is about 94rwkw, and that is a _very_ worked street engine running heaps of compression and heaps of cam All A-series engines burn oil, but it isn't terminal (usually valve stem seals, but stuck oil-control rings are also common) and as long as you keep an eye on oil levels they will run until the cows come home. My 7AFE has 387,000km on it, completely un-opened - it burns through a sump of oil in about 5,000km, and is smokey on first startup, high rpm and engine braking, but still pulls like a champ and feels like it could do another 100,000 easily before. As for the whole Cosworth thing, it's a bit of an urban legend that seems to grow over time - the 4AGE does share some design characteristics with the Cosworth BDA and has the same kind of power/performance, but it is by no means a copy (main differences include the BDA being 1601cc instead of 1587cc for the 4A, bore centres are different, valve angles are different, distributor is in a different spot, BDA has a two-piece head whilst the 4A has a single-piece) etc etc. This gets compounded by the fact that Toyota had a partnership with Lotus (NOT Cosworth) in the 70s/80s, which explains why the Lotus Excel has a Toyota diff, gearbox, MA61 wheels and door handles; the M90 concept/prototype ran a 4AGE; S4 Esprits ran AE86 tail-lights; and Lotus are rumoured to have assisted with the design of the AW11 MR2.

And what happens in tunnels/around skyscrapers etc? Especially with the number of speed cameras in NSW tunnels (Harbour, Lane Cove etc), relying on a GPS speedo (these already exist by the way, Speedhut make them, mostly for retro-fitting into old-skool cars without needing to interface with the original mechanical speedo sender) is just asking to be fined for speeding...

Is the engine going to be modified significantly? Hillclimbs (as long as the engine is warm when you start) wouldn't place massive loads on the oil because you're only going to be running hard for a minute max at a time, with plenty of cool-down. A lot of the guys on Twincam run Penrite, if it's a stock-ish 280k 16V 4AGE then something like HPR30 would be fine. Bear in mind that A-series engines love to burn oil as they get old, so don't run anything too thin in a high-miler otherwise it'll be pouring out the exhaust.

You're very lucky that it has no rust, the AE92s suffered from big rust problems in the tailgate and around the windscreen/a-pillars so either you've got a minter or one that has been repaired - regardless, keep an eye out for it and get it fixed as soon as it appears otherwise it snowballs into a massive job worth more than the car.

The MC* frame code means it is an MZ-series V6, which only came in 3.0L and 3.3L versions in the US (there was a 2.5L version in some markets, but even then that's not "2400cc"). Since it is an MCV30, it's a 3.0L 1MZFE (the MCV31 is the 3.3L 3MZFE)

1) Depending on who you ask, very rarely SXs were sometimes given AE92 VINs, most were AE93 though. In addition, the whole series is generally referred to as AE92, even when some models had different numbers over the years (ie facelifted CSi/Ultimas etc were actually AE94, and '92-> RVs and Ultima Secas were AE96). Because of this, you'll often just see AE92 in a parts book/catalogue etc to simplify things 2) All AE93s are SX/SX Seca/GTi. Almost all AE92s are not 3) Heaps - it is a Corolla afterall. Good ones are getting hard to find due to P-platers and rust, however 4) See above As for the rear spoiler, all SX hatchbacks would have had the wrap-around rear spoiler. Unless you have official brochures it would be hard to determine original colour due to the age of the car and the popularity in modifying them (plus the tailgates often rust which means repainting/replacing), but I've seen white, black and red ones (SXs only came in white and red, the later GTi/SX Seca models also came in gunmetal grey)

Does not compute - will either be a 3.0L (ie 3000cc) V6, 3.3L V6 or 2.4L (2400cc) 4-cylinder

Classic Celica Day is Sunday the 25th May, EOMMs are the last Saturday of the month which for May would be 31st...

They're rare but its not like there were only half a dozen ever imported, so history on a specific car is a bit of a stretch to ask for :P

There's nothing wrong with having different size tyres/wheels front-to-rear, unless you have a 4WD car. As long as each the tyres on each axle are the same (ie front left is the same as front right) it's fine. Staggered widths/offsets are more common (and more purposeful) on RWD cars, but it wouldn't cause vibration or steering problems on a FWD (handling might not be perfect though).

Looks to be an ST165, why?

And stop bumping millions of threads just to say "Nice!"...

4AFC, not 4AFE. 4AFC is the carby engine in Australian Corollas/Novas, despite what you might think the "C" doesn't actually stand for "Carby" though (it's "California")

4AFC, the sticker that says A/T is referring to the fact that it's an auto

I agree. My '96 runs 10mph fast at 70mph. In other words when it says 70 I am doing 60. This is crazy. It means oil changes and so on come up early. I can go up a few tyre sizes to compensate and think I have got it worked out what size to go to next to bring the discrepancy down to a reasonable level. You might find that the speedometer accuracy is different to the odometer accuracy. Here in Aus the speedo can be out +0 -10%, but odometer accuracy has to be +-4%, much stricter. I've seen mention in some places that this no longer applies after 2006 because odometers are apparently no longer legally required (or maybe because 99% of them are now digital), but it will still work for the bulk of new-ish cars on our roads (obviously can't comment on your situation since you don't live in Australia)

By cheating :P

The TRD Aurion charger is an EATON TVS, I believe the R1320 model. The TVS chargers are different from the older Roots M90/M112 etc in regards to lobe designs, unsure about pulleys/couplings.

What's wrong with pastrami, salami, rare roast beef, ham etc etc? :P

Agreed, UHP/semi-slicks always look better with a square/chunky sidewall, proper race-cars don't run stretch because who doesn't need more rubber on the ground? :P

It sometimes takes a day or two for them to respond to queries/emails.. Also, where did you select your parts to be sourced from, Japan or UAE? UAE is cheaper but has longer lead times and more chance of delay, often into the weeks.

Ahh, so you mean a PedalBox , which is just a throttle controller. Assuming you have a fly-by-wire setup (I'm not that up to speed on the newer Hiluxes), then all it does is increase the ratio of the pedal to the throttle. Some people claim better performance, but it doesn't do anything that pressing the pedal harder/faster wouldn't accomplish, so we're talking fractional improvement, and something that would probably get either tiresome or wear off after a while (as you get used to the driving style).

ANZAC Day is on the Friday (25th)

The pedal box is the bracket/mount that houses the pedals (accelerator, brake, clutch etc). It has nothing to do with the exhaust, so this makes no sense whatsoever.