Hiro

Not much - RA60s aren't that desirable, and the coupes even less so (although they can have that "ugly-but-cool" aspect). An absolute minter might go for a couple of grand to an enthusiast, a rust-bucket you might not be able to give away.

The white Altis is the SE-Asia/US ZZE122 sedan (we got the JDM one which looks different), not the AE112 Superifcially they may look similar but I'd doubt that major dimensions (and in this case the key one being boot width) would be the same since the ZZE122 was the first of the Corollas to move to a "tall-boy" body-style.

Check the pins when the lights are actually turned on - they are ground-switched so when they are turned off all three pins could be floating at 12V with no current flow. You should find that one pin supplies 12V to both high and low-beam circuits, then the combination switch (ie the stalk on the steering column) will ground whichever circuit is needed. I don't know exactly what circuit the Paseo has but on the Corolla of the same vintage the headlight relay controls both low and high beam (probably because they are a combined bulb)

Went out to get dinner the other night and I noticed that the headlights weren't turning on - parkers/indicators/fogs/tail-lights all worked fine, but lows and highs were completely unresponsive (and the dash indicator didn't come on for high-beam either). Wife then proceded to tell me that the headlights started cutting out intermittently on her a few nights previously (nice to be informed of these things...) before dying completely. Checked the headlight fuses today just in case and they were fine, next thought was the combi-switch but the dash still dims when you turn the lights on, the auto-headlight relay still clicks when you cover the sensor, and obviously the parkers are still working. Done a bit of reading and it seems to be either the headlight relay or the integration relay - apparently the integration relay is a real pain to change and I don't seem to be suffering any other symptons (door jamb lights, key-ring light and dome-lights are all fully functional), so my hopes are on the main headlight relay in the engine bay. Would this be a special relay or can I just go down to Supercheap/Repco and use any 4-pin relay off the shelf (never had to play around with anything more complicated than wires and fuses)?

There is no point speculating on what might be causing it if you don't know what is physically faulty, just pull the codes first and see what that tells you.

Sounds like you've got error codes stored in the ECU - get them checked and fixed/cleared before anything else.

Good-o, just wasn't too sure what the JZX90s came out with (I would have thought they would have been the same as the Soarers and had the two different types depending on model year)

Early R154s have a non-remote shifter housing where the stick comes up direct out of the box. Depending on model some had a gooseneck shifter and/or different length top housings to bring the knob position further back (early JZZ30 for instance). Later ones had a remote shifter housing with extra linkages and a big y-brace (which you can see in your picture above) like the remote W58 and V160 I _think there are 4 different ones in total Early non-remote w/ gooseneck - MA70/JZA70 Early non-remote w/ gooseneck and longer housing - early JZZ30 Mid-life remote w/ straight stick - JZX90, JZX100, late JZZ30 Late remote w/ straight stick (a bit further back again) - JZX110 If that is the case then the JZX90 one should be the same/close-enough to the JZX100 one so you'll be OK, but there are enough different types running around (and people often modify ones to make them fit in different models) that you need to be careful otherwise the trans tunnel could require mods or you could be punching the centre console with every second shift. MA70 Early JZZ30 JZX90/JZX100/late-JZZ30

Yeah, that sounds like you :P Was just a thought since you said it was coming out of a JZX90 which is a different shifter to the JZX100 *actually meant shifter housing

So you'll be getting the proper extension housing for the R154?

Definitely a 4AFE-powered AE101

Looks like the NSW one, a couple of things appear to have changed over the years but the engine setup looks the same.

You might be better off buying another car then. There are off-the-shelf turbo kits from the US for the Scion 2AZ (from memory there is a tiny bit of work to make it fit the Camry), but a decent bolt-on turbo kit (without changing internals) for the 2AZ will probably only bump you up to stock Aurion V6 power levels, for a lot more hassle and decreased reliability. Do the basics first (exhaust, intake, better suspension etc) and see how happy you are with the car, it'll never be a rocketship but if you were after performance then a 4-cyl Camry is not the best place to start (your mention of turbo Liberty etc doesn't take into account Subaru's extensive rally history and development of the EJ-series engine over many years) Have a read of this thread, it might give you some help http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/32660-gen-6-turbo-camry/

Define "safe" and "increase". You could increase power by 1kW incredibly safely, but you wouldn't notice the difference. What kind of goals/money are we talking about here?

Why is it annoying? If you're getting annoyed with doing the indicated speed limit and are constantly being overtaken/tail-gated, there's a decent chance that it isn't that the other cars have more accurate speedos, rather that they are speeding.

Starting in second gear is a common "snow-mode" feature, to avoid wheelspin when starting in slippery/icy conditions.

According to ADR 18/03, as of 2006/2007 all new cars sold in Australia must have a speedometer which reads safe (ie reads greater than actual road speed) and must not indicate a speed greater than 110% +4km/h of actual road speed (ie at an actual road speed of 100km/h the speedo can show up to 114km/h). According to the numbers you gave, your speedo meets this regulation and thus is not faulty or illegal. The reasoning behind the regulation is to allow for differences in temperature, tyre inflation pressure, tyre wear, tyre size, load-capacity as well as manufacturing tolerances in the speed sensor and speedometer itself, as well as to remove a legal loophole that allowed people to exceed the speed limit despite their speedometer showing a speed lower than the limit. In short, you're in the exact same boat as every other new car driver out there. Doesn't matter if you're in a Rav4, Commodore, Ferrari or Great Wall, your speedo could be reading the same way.

Extending on that, a CVT WITH an electric motor that often does all of the driving means that tachos are almost completely useless (when you're cruising around on just the electric motor the tacho would be reading zero, which to some people would be more off-putting than not having a tacho in the first place). Instead, much more relevant (for a hybrid) fuel-consumption and driving-style gauges are used.

Give it a firm hit with the palm of your hand, the clips around the cigarette lighter are pretty tight. The only screws holding that panel on are the two at the top underneath the air-con controls. If that doesn't work, then gently (it snaps easily, mine already has) pry the whole panel free, line up the clips and get that section clipped in first

Personally I don't think you'll see anywhere near the improvements that you'd get from forced induction, especially since you'll have to upgrade just about everything that you would have with a turbo install anyway to get the most out of it (ECU, injectors/fuel pump, manifolds etc) Camming a big lazy V8 is a completely different story to a small efficient economy 4-cylinder

There are two chances that this will work - Buckley's, and none. Electric superchargers, Hiclones/vortex generators etc etc have routinely and repeatedly been busted as providing no benefit whatsoever, basically a big fat placebo installed in your intake.

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/19545-the-tocau-aurion-faq/ ABS Self-check "clunk" perhaps? . . Q) My Aurion makes a clunk / knock sound when driving off for the first time after starting it. Is this a problem? This is not an issue. Every time you start your engine and then drive off the ABS performs a self-check. The service manual best describes this: Have a read through there and see if it is the same issue that you are having. If so, then you've got nothing to worry about

Sounds like your alternator is dead - the jump puts enough energy into the battery to get it going but the alternator isn't making any juice to keep it charged, thus the car runs entirely off the battery. Had this happen with my AE82, if you are stuck by the side of the road and need to get it home/to a mechanic etc then swap in a fully charged battery from another car, but even then you won't make it too far.

Now there's a name/face I haven't seen in a while :P