Hiro

Camera is a Nikon D5100, lenses either the kit Nikon 18-55/55-200s, Nikon 18-200 (which I use now in place of both kits), or the Nikon 50 1.8 (which those beach shots were taken with) I was looking at the Nikon D5100! The quality doesn't look too bad, but I guess it depends on the lens. Where did you buy it from if you don't mind me asking? D5100 is good because it's heaps cheaper now the D5200 and D3200 came out - I got mine from Harvey Norman on special for about $800 including both kit lenses. My other main option was a second-hand D90 but even then they weren't that cheap, and I couldn't spring for a new D7000 either (7100 hadn't come out at that stage)

It can be made to slip quite easily (ie you don't need to press the pedal much when moving to get the revs to flare) but I've learnt to drive around it - everyone who drives my car says the clutch is stuffed initially, purely because it disengages so high and quickly (how it is now is how it has been for probably the last 100,000km, except for when the masso started dying) Camera is a Nikon D5100, lenses either the kit Nikon 18-55/55-200s, Nikon 18-200 (which I use now in place of both kits), or the Nikon 50 1.8 (which those beach shots were taken with)

So after 380,000km, one of the many original factory-fitted components has finally died. The mushiness and butt-load of freeplay in the clutch pedal turned out to be a master cylinder missing most of its seals (yet still not leaking) and filled with more sludge than Hexham Swamp. $300 later, and the difference is night-and-day, with a clutch that disengages within the first 50mm of travel rather than the last 10mm - so much so that it has taken quite a bit of getting used to, with the clutch picking up so high that it feels like you're still in neutral when pulling away. Still, the clutch isn't slipping under power (what little power there is) and passes the old 4th-gear+handbrake test, so I should be able to coax it to 400,000km before it actually needs attention...

THE GREATER GOOD....

Nice, another OzCelica convert :P

Hence why it is a "warning" light...

Is this your first car? It is very common for fuel gaues and distance-to-empty computers to be overly conservative (it isn't good PR for a car company to have cars frequently running out of petrol because the trip computer still said 50km to empty)... Having a fuel warning light come on with roughly ~10L left in the tank is pretty much standard practice these days. Since this is only a very new car, you haven't had time to come to learn all the little tricks and foibles that it has - once you drive a car long enough you'll learn just how far you can push the fuel warning light

Reason we cant do both? Reason = No Reason we cant do both Therefore, everyone happy :D None really, I'd probably just come down for 'Fest though, been doing too much driving lately and getting a bit sick of the F3...sorry, M1

Or wait an extra week and get everyone to come to Toyotafest :D

My 1-year anniversary takes precedence :P

Spoiler risers wouldn't be much use on a sedan though :P

60 seconds per minute 60 minutes per degree 360 degrees per full circle The Bridgestone report above uses degrees (the number before the little supersript circle) and minutes (the number before the apostrophe). Measuring wheel alignments in seconds would be nigh-on impossible.

The fact that you have a sedan immediately means it's the facelift version - the bugeye pre-facelift only came out for ~2 years (overlapping partly with the AE102) and only in Seca form, the facelift in '99 brought about the return of the sedan.

Check what the 91s are. Decent chance that the BP 91 is normal whilst the Caltex/Shell 91 is E10, which is usually another 4c/L cheaper than standard 91. (BP in NSW at least have removed E10 91 from most of their sites for 2013 as they are supposedly running scheduled maintenance and can't stock E10) It is a known thing that Woolies/Coles inflate the prices so that the 4c/L discount just brings them back in line/slightly under the other servos, if you fill up at a Woolies-Caltex or Coles-Shell without using a shopper-docket you're a downright fool (or have absolutely no other choice)

Or drug use...

I think the 3km/h error margin went out the door in NSW a few years ago when they changed the wording of the lowest bracket from <10km/h over to 0-10km/h over. It is against new ADRs for speedos to read over at all anyway (and most cars on the roads these days would have been made to those ADRs). Most cops etc use discretion in the first place, no point wasting time pulling someone over for a momentary 2km/h lapse of judgment when they could ping someone for 15-20 over. Obviously mobile/fixed cameras (which don't have human operators) are a different story though

10% error @110km/h would completely eliminate the lowest-level speeding fine (0-10 over) :P

Look at where the car in front is in relation to the lane-markings. When the flash goes off it looks like the car and the camera are level but if you check the lane markings the other car is probably ~20m (3 lane dividers) before the camera. According to the numbers on the camera feed you're doing 112-113 when the flash goes off. At that time it looks like you and the other car are going roughly the same speed, but after the flash he slows down substantially which makes me think it got pinged rather than you Saying there is no warning sign in front is hard to prove though, since the mobile ones only have that little ~0.5m tall hutch sign that they place on the roadside just before the camera to warn you, it isn't like the big shiny 3 signs before a fixed camera.

It is more than just the number of bolts. I'm not saying it is harder, just it takes longer - you have to physically remove the caliper, retain it to stop it damaging the brake lines, and the process of fitting the caliper complete over the rotor WITH brake pads fitted is more difficult, and the easier way you end up re-assembling it without the pads and then doing the pad change (or refit) afterwards. Thus, don't be surprised if a mechanic charges extra labour for the job (if you've got a good mechanic then they may waive it). The extra effort over all 4 wheels may equate to an hour's worth of extra labour, which at ~$80-90 an hour is not insignificant

There is extra work to fit rotors if you're doing pads at the same time. There is basically no extra work to fit pads if you're doing rotors at the same time. Yes there is a difference.... If you're just changing pads then the caliper pad holder stay bolted to the hub (which prevents the rotor coming off) and the caliper piston housing pivots up allowing you to change the pads - you then reset the piston and pivot the unit back down over the new pads. Changing the rotor requires you to completely remove the caliper and pad holder from the hub.

Wide-angle lens isn't doing it any justice at all...

W58s get put behind old-skool Holden V8s (302s etc) so they can handle a decent amount of power/torque, you'll probably never find a hard-and-fast number though as a lot of it comes down to driving style

Fairly yup - he visited years back when he become the owner of my ex-Ae101 Levin (4agze) ... Burgundy one? That's the car I got my front seats from :P

I see Terra dropped by for a visit...