Hiro

Should have clarified myself, the graphite wasn't to CLEAN the lock, it was to lubricate it (in very small quantities) after the lock had been cleaned by other methods. There's a lot of divided opinion out there anyway when it comes to how to clean/lube door locks, so it'll usually come down to personal preference and experience.

I'll have a deeper look into the wiring/connectors this afternoon, but for the moment remote central locking did come standard/optional in the facelift models (yours is pre-facelift). It wouldn't be as simple as swapping systems over though as the early models used an integration relay for all the body electrics and the later ones a full body control module. The remotes had the immobiliser transponder in them too so if you unlocked the car any other way than by pushing the remote button you had to press it again once inside before the car would start (otherwise you'd have to wait 30 minutes for the immobiliser to disable, or insert the remote into the programming receptacle in the glovebox). If you're handy with tools it might be an idea to pop the door trim off and remove the driver's side door lock barrel and give it a good clean/lube with graphite powder or silicone spray

Please read the rules regarding For Sale threads located here. All For Sale threads are to be located in the Buy/Sell Corner.

Was more implying that you have to do it with the current gearing, a change to the final drive ratio will make it worse (and will make every hill worse)

There's no point going down the oversize tyre route to increase your final drive ratio, since to get any meaningful drop in RPM requires a significantly bigger tyre - say from 3000rpm down to 2700rpm, a 10% drop, you would need to go from the stock 185/75/R14 to a 235/75/R14, which is a HUUUUGE tyre for a 14x5.5" rim. You'll end up looking like a jacked-up 4x4 with 35" BF Goodrichs before you start seeing meaningful RPM decrease, by which stage the increase in rolling resistance and inertia will cancel out any fuel savings from the lower rpm. Not to mention your speedo being out by ~10km/h at cruising speed (and in the wrong way, so unless you pay attention you'll be going 10+ over the limit all the time). Ohh, and did I mention it is illegal as well unless engineered(in NSW you're allowed up to a 7% change in overall diameter from the tyre placard)? Note that even though the auto has a lower cruising RPM, it still gets worse fuel economy on the highway, indicating the drain on power that most 80s/90s autos have. I've been in a manual 5SFE-powered Camry up and down the F3 freeway more times than I care to remember (used to go on road-trips with my parents just about every second weekend as a kid), and invariably you'd have to kick back to 4th for any decent hill, and that's with stock gearing and stock tyre size. Even with only me in the SXV20, the hills either side of the Mooney Mooney bridge require a run-up to be able to stay in 5th. "Overdrive" stopped meaning a separate overdriven transfer unit back in the 70s and just refers to top gear being driven at <1:1. The only reason autos of the 70s-90s still had the O/D button was to stop the transmission shifting into too high a gear when cold or when towing - most 4-speed autos don't have an O/D button any more, and 5/6/7-speed autos will have more than one gear <1:1. As for engine life - it's a Toyota. You get 300,000km+ out of them completely stock-standard, so why worry about increasing longevity? And the perfect 15" tyre size for you would be 205/65/R15 - that's what the Vienta came with.

Distance-to-empty computers ALWAYS read pessimistic....can you imagine if it was the other way around, and you got stranded with an empty tank and 50km left on the gauge? Toyota fuel-gauges in general have always been pessimistic too, you'll often still have ~10L left in the tank when your low fuel light comes on and the gauge needle is pegged out below E. In saying that though, one of the few Toyotas I've owned which has a scarily accurate fuel gauge is the Soarer, it has a digital bar gauge on the cluster and an additional XX Litres display on the LCD, and a two-stage low-fuel warning - orange bowser symbol for <9L left, and a warning message in Kanji for <5, and it has never been more than a couple of litres out when I've gone to refill the 78L tank. No trip computer/distance-to-empty readout though

I thought all Australian XA10 Ravs were constant 4x4... FYI unless you're going by actual manufacture date it can't be a '93, they didn't go on sale in Aus until mid '94 (and '95 if it's a 5-door)

Since you've already got coilovers that basically ties you down to either the AE86 upgrade path or something like a Hoppers Stoppers kit (would be worth giving HS a ring, tell them your setup and see if their kit will interface with it). Most other options would probably involve new struts/coilovers.

Why the need for the brake upgrade? Nothing really bolts on directly, the common method would be to convert to an AE86 front setup and then go down the same path as all the hachi guys do. From memory there are also some S13/RX7 conversion paths to go down, but it would be worthwhile determining how much you want to spend/modify based on your desired outcome. No point throwing thousands at converting to RX7 brakes etc when you're still keeping the 4K.

Most of the keys I can find online for the ACR30 seem to show the remote buttons built into the key fob itself rather than a seperate controller, the one you posted above just looks like a standard non-remote key (the immobiliser transponder will be inside the black casing). Might help to go to a dealership and find out what the keys and remote (if separate) should look like - it might be a case of then getting a new key w/ buttons in the fob off eBay, swap the transducer over and get it cut to your locks (if the blade can't be swapped over as well). Try and avoid buying a whole new unit/immobiliser etc from the dealership as they'll charge you 2 arms, 3 legs and several new-borns for it.

What does the current key look like? Australian Toyotas of that vintage started to have the immobiliser transponder in the key itself, so the remote is simply to lock/unlock the doors - this makes it easy to buy either a genuine spare remote or an aftermarket one and re-program it to work with your central locking unit (much easier than trying to re-program a new immobiliser like the older remotes had to do) Did this the other week with my wife's daily '99 Camry, bought a genuine Toyota remote on eBay and took all of 10 seconds to link it to the car (instructions are usually provided but it's generally something as simple as turning the key on/off a couple of times to enter programming mode, then hitting the button on the remote to link them).

Try sourcing the part from either Japan or Dubai through Amayama - heaps cheaper than going through Toyota Australia FYI 63205A is only half the number - standard Toyota part numbers are in a #####-##### format. A quick search of a US-spec 2006 Camry (Australian models don't always show up in the databases you can find online) shows that part number as being 63205-0E020 (63205A is the "category" for the cable sub-assembly under which there might be several different part numbers for sub-components or for variations) However, try and confirm the proper Australian part number with Toyota first (maybe try a different dealership, sometimes you get a good guy behind the counter who will show you their EPG, others refuse to even give out part number details, attitude helps too), since the Camry is Australian-made a lot of components will have been made/sourced locally and thus can have different suppliers/part numbers to overseas models - in this case Amayama might not be able to help as they don't usually deal with Australia-unique parts.

Strange that it'd be pinging on 91 as 5EFEs should be perfectly fine with normal unleaded (not E10 :P). And 98 won't kill your cat at all.

I've never had a problem with Ryco filters, but if I'm at a dealership for some other reason and I'm due for an oil change I'll usually pick up a TGP filter too, just for peace of mind. The cost isn't outrageous but I wouldn't go out of my way to go to a dealership just to get an oil filter. When it comes to parts, TGP is generally better than any of the standard aftermarket brands (especially when it comes to oil filters and coolant) - whether it is worth the extra cost or not is up to you and your hip pocket.

If you buy genuine Toyota oil filters they tend to throw in the sump washer for free in the box... Then again, I've run with the same washer for many oil changes, and even for a few without it, with no oil leaks. As long as the plug is done up nice and tight and both the flange and around the hole in the sump is clean you shouldn't get any leaks even without the washer (the advantage of a flange-head bolt)

At what stage is the ignition turned on during this proceedure? Ignition key should be at the ON position (but the engine not running) during the whole procedure

It'll be a 2AZ engine, which uses a timing chain instead of a belt (and does not need to be changed for the life of the car)

TE1 and E1 are the pins to bridge for diagnostics pretty much all ODB1 Toyotas. There are other pin combinations to test things such as fuel-pump priming, external tachometer etc etc Make sure you get the right code-set as there are two different ones - the older single-digit code-set (which does have some double-digit codes) and the newer full double-digit, from memory they changed in the late 80s/early 90s. Best bet is to get a Gregorys workshop manual or the like, they almost always have a listing of the error codes and the correct way to check/clear them.

'98 Starlet will be an EP91. Even just putting the 4EFTE turbo motor from the Jap-spec Glanza is a good upgrade, they were 3/4 of bugger-all. Cheap, simple, been done plenty of times before (since it was a factory option). There have been a couple of blacktop 20V conversions too, personally I wouldn't bother going all the way to a 3SGTE as, although it will give you strong numbers and plenty of aftermarket support, it's a big heavy engine sitting in the front of a quite tiny city hatchback. K20A conversion will just end in pain

He's too busy playing around with boats and Brad's SRE71

Seriously, all you need to read OBD1 error codes is a paper clip.

Autos can afford to be geared taller because they have the ability to slip the torque converter at lower speeds to boost torque. Plenty of info online about Toyota gear ratios, the manual is probably an S53 and the auto something like an A140E

They list it in the fine-print therefore it isn't false advertising. Standard practice for any contract/agreement is to read the fine-print, if you don't then you're opening yourself up to all sorts of situations and waiving any right to legal recourse. From the Toyota Service Pricing and Eligibility website (the very first thing that popped up when I googled "Toyota capped price servicing") Excludes Goverment, Rental, Fleet Not for Profit and Toyota Employee Family Vehicle Purchase vehicles. Contact your Toyota Dealer or go to toyota.com.au/advantage for other exclusions and eligibility.

And you felt the need to post here to tell us that? Not sure if this is farming for likes/attention/members for a new site or a genuine "I've posted once here in the last year, and it's to tell you that I'm leaving"

I'd buy the GTS because both sets of wheels look like complete **** and I'd swap them regardless as soon as I got home (nice set of Enkei RPF1s, maybe :D) And if you want to go down the purist route, the _real_ base model 86 (the RC, not available here) comes with 16" STEEL wheels (and unpainted black bumpers) because they want you to replace them with racing bodykits (Japan often offers stripped-out models for track-day cars)