Hiro

If you don't have power windows it'll be unlikely that the wiring is in the body loom for them already - this could also mean that the plug from the body loom to the door loom is different as well.

And when was the last time it was driven? :P

You're not going to get a new genuine front bumper for $65... And again, PLEASE turn off your all-caps. It is the online equivalent of shouting and makes you look quite rude.

R1320

Needs to be 5x114.3 PCD, and depending on the width somewhere in the +35 to +45 offset range (don't quote me on those offets though). As far as Ford rims are concerned, you'd be looking at Falcons from AU onwards (and the Territory too, obviously), but make sure you check widths and offsets as you can probably fit a much bigger wheel under an XR8 than an SXV10 Camry. There are tonnes more manufacturers out there apart from Ford that have 5x114.3 wheels though, so don't limit yourself to just looking at Falcons...

Nor is it the same colour anymore :P

Distributor seals leaking is classic '80s/'90s Toyota...

Toyota, Redbook and very respected members of this forum all disagree with you https://toyota.pressroom.com.au/press_kit_detail.asp?kitID=36&clientID=2&navSectionID=6#827 WHEELS Rims: 16x6JJ alloy Tyres: 195/55 R16 87V Bridgestone Turanza http://www.redbook.com.au/cars/research/used/details/2003-toyota-corolla-sportivo-manual/SPOT-ITM-281731 Rim Material Alloy Front Tyre Description 195/55 R16 Front Rim Description 16x6.0 Rear Tyre Description 195/55 R16 Rear Rim Description 16x6.0 http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/37053-wide-wheels-on-a-stivo/page-1#entry491136 Stock 16x6 6" (152.4mm) wide +45 offset

SXV20 Camry 5SFE heads have 3 blanking plugs to fill in the ends of the camshaft line-bores - 2 "half-moon" plugs on the ends of the head in line with the exhaust camshaft, and one full blanking cap on the passenger-end of the head inline with the intake camshaft (where the distributor fits on the SXV10/Celica 5SFEs). They are all common leaking points if they aren't re-sealed properly when the cam cover gasket is changed.

It said "rapture" instead of "rupture"....

Toyota uses the last numbers in a model series code to specify different spec variations - eg engine, body style, drivetrain configuration etc H100 is the series LH1xx are the L-series diesel versions RZH1xx are the RZ-series petrol versions H10x are the short wheelbase versions (ie H102, H103) H11x are the long wheelbase versions (eg H113) H12x are the super-long wheelbase versions (eg H125) Looking at Redbook, you'll have an RZH113 (RZ engine, H100 series, long wheelbase). There don't seem to be any engine-variation versions, but normally the last digit would indicate this - LH102 might have the 2.4L diesel, LH103 the 2.8L (these are just an example and may not be true) If you can find a build- or compliance-plate it'll tell you the exact code of what you have.

Missed it first time 'round but the joke had to be made

Anything air-con related I would recommend getting a shop to do due to the laws regarding venting/re-filling of R134a (basically it's illegal if you're not licensed). If the system is completely dry and empty (say a rock smashed your compressor and the whole thing dumped it's guts) then you could probably do the basic install yourself but leave the rest to the professionals

Late 70s/early 80s at least :P - KE55 had the exact same thing

Have you checked ALL the fuses? There are fuse boxes in the cabin as well as the engine-bay

Direct-injection too

16x6 +45 actually

First gear isn't the best rest for clutch slip, try third or fourth instead.

No such thing as a Sportivo in the 20-series...

Note the "of various ages". Non-turbo classic Porsches aren't _that_ fast, same as older Ferraris. A TRD Aurion could probably see off anything up to an F355 or 993 in a straight line.

Does it do it in all gears at all speeds or just particular ones? Could be the torque converter locking and unlocking

Duplicate thread

Sounds like the same procedure I used which worked

Compliance/Build plate will have the Toyota paint code on it, usually located on the firewall in the engine bay or the door sill

Step 1: Buy genuine Toyota remote on eBay from locksmith or dealer Step 2: Follow instructions usually provided with said remote to pair it to your car Step 3: ???? Step 4: Profit Here's one I bought earlier http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251251370914