Hiro

Chances are the extra socket would be for attaching an optional CD stacker

Firstly, the engine sizes you're quoting for the Camry/Vienta are way off - they ran a 2.2L I4 or 3.0L V6 in that era. Neither are common swaps in Aus either, as they are big heavy engines and there aren't any kits off-the-shelf for the conversion so you're well in to custom territory. The closest to bolt-in you'll get will be the 1.8L 7AFE found in the AE102 (you have an AE101 by the sounds of it) and the AE112, next step is going to a JDM 4AGE 20V engine or a supercharged 4AGZE, they fit right in but you'll have work to do with the electrics and electronics to make it run properly. You'll need to consult with your local state roads/transport division as to what you are legally allowed to drive whilst still on your P's, but if it's your first car then I'd concentrate on other things rather than what is under the hood. There aren't many mods out there that will make a 4AFE go faster (apart from doing a turbo conversion), but you can make the drive "quicker" and more fun by upgrading the handling via suspension, tyres and brakes.

Australian radio frequency ranges are different to Japan (the "tuning range" you see on the bottom of the sticker), plus we often have different trim levels to Japan. As such, they might want to standardise their units across the whole Aus-delivered range (Corolla, Camry, Celica, Hilux, Landcruiser, Rav4 etc)

I'm a 90s guy, that's not _that_ old skool (way too many wires) A thin wire running around the perimeter of the rear windscreen glass.

If you look at the top-right of the page you'll see a small circular picture (your Avatar) plus your username and a drop-down menu arrow. Hit that arrow, then select Account Settings, your password should be in there

Quite likely that Toyota Australia or the dealer replaced the units when they came here. Check to see if it matches a similar vintage Camry unit for instance

A lot of Japanese cars have had embedded antenna since the early 90s....

Check to see if it's embedded in the rear windscreen, a lot of new cars have it there instead of the traditional metal pole or sharkfin.

Difference between an OHV and DOHC V8 - the pushrod dinosaur that is the LS2/LS3 doesn't need anywhere near as much oil lubrication in the head

Sounds like the master cylinder to me but the slave is easier to check and cheaper to replace. Considering the age of the car and things are probably still all original I'd change both master and slave at the same time (or at least rebuild the seals, relatively easy job if you have seal picks and flare-nut spanners), the clutch itself should be ok as long as it isn't slipping.

Sounds like it's the intake resonator

If you think 6L is bad, be thankful you don't have a V8 Commodore, the newer ones of those take like 7-8L

Carry across all ancillaries and the engine should bolt in fine, there are differences between early and late 4AFEs (the '92 will be early, the '99 late) but the computer should take care of most/all of them, unless there is part of the body harness that also needs to attach. You might need tweaking when it comes to speedothough as the '99 will have an electronic speedo and the '92 will probably have a cable (unless you don't plan to swap gearboxes)

Same here (an inch shorter though), knowing where the extents of your car are without physically seeing them is a key part of learning to drive. Plenty of modern tall-boy hatches have bonnets that are completely invisible from the driver's seat even if you play in the NBA. It's the reason why so many JDM cars had the option of "parking poles" since the average Japanese male is 3 inches shorter than an Australian or American.

Can't comment for your exact combination (you don't mention whether you've got the petrol or diesel either), but rule of thumb is to keep the car out of top gear/overdrive when towing wherever possible to avoid it bogging down the engine too much. Try to take any advice you hear from randoms with a grain of salt though (same goes with internet forums). Also next time try coming up with a topic title that actually describes your problem, most people will think either a) you're introducing yourself, or b) you've got a problem with a distributor.

As long as the seatbelt still works properly I'd say a booster cushion is the easiest way to go about it, remember also that boosting the driver up means they'll have greater difficulty reaching the pedals. Any modifications to the seat base or to the mounting would most likely need to go through engineering, might be worth contacting your local mobility assistance installer for ideas as they'd have experience modifying the driving position outside of factory ranges. How short are we talking anway? Both my wife and my mother are ~5'6" and have had no trouble driving both XV10 and XV20 Camrys.

Checked the tailgate doors/switches too?

I'd also assume this, along with "your car doesn't have the correct holes for the spoiler, therefore it doesn't fit" and requires holes etc drilled from a template (which often comes with aftermarket or dealer-fitted options)

You _do_ realise we're not actually Toyota you know....

If you don't want noisy induction you don't buy an old-skool twin-sidedraught Toyota motor, that's the best bit of them.

The Toyota website will have all the relevant information regarding towing capacity, better to go straight to the source rather than relying on internet opinions.

Might be a bit hard to clean the throttle body, ICV and MAF sensor on a carbied 2Y... :P

Does your existing fob still work? Often you need a working one in order to program a new one.

Got any pictures or links of the fob that you purchased?

Since there was a decent chance Charlene Mk2 was going to be the only AE10x in attendance to Toyotafest (turns out she wasn't, but technically the other one that turned up was Charlene Mk1 so I guess it still counts) I decided to cash in some favours with a mate who liked sparky work and get the FXGT fogs finally wired up (after 5+ years of sitting in the front bar all lonely and disconnected, I had finally gotten around to getting a Euro rear fog switch to go under the power mirror controls). At the same time I finally got around to installing the JDM clock back in to the dash, as well as the old VDO/JL speakers for a bit of a sound upgrade. And whilst I was on a bit of a roll, in went the ignition-barrel and footwell lights (got to love JDM factory options that plug-and-play into existing ports/wiring on the fuse box, they even time out properly like the dome light does) Since the fogs would require some wiring work around the front of the car, I also made the decision to re-fit the Hella grille. What looks to be a simple grille swap is actually not, due to the fact that the driver's side Hell intrudes on the A/C fan, and to remove the A/C fan (I chopped up the one on the old car and kept it to retrofit on to Mk2) requires the removal of the headlights, grille, bumper, bumper support, oil cooler, horn and bonnet catch, all for two screws and two rubber plugs. In the middle of disassembly End result 8 hours later (after we discovered and fixed the mixed-up wiring - fogs would come on with high-beams and the Hellas with the lows, the opposite of what they should) JL vs Toyota paper cone And after a quick wash the next morning, ready to get covered with bugs like every trip I make for a Toymods event (granted it didn't rain this time, which was a first) Still got to take some photos of the ignition and footwell lights, but you can only see them when they're dark