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Hiro

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Everything posted by Hiro

  1. Hiro
    Pay attention to where the drain plug is on the sump too and which way you jack the car up to reach it - if the plug is at the front and you raise the front of the car then there will naturally be some oil sitting in the back of the sump due to the way it is tilted back.
  2. Hiro
    Have you gotten quotes for a repair through a 'shop? Dealerships will charge an arm and a leg for a new OEM wheel, and you might struggle to find a single second-hand one as most people would probably be selling a set
  3. Hiro
    Did the car still have it's original factory headunit? If so, just use the appropriate ISO adaptor harness and never worry about splicing or soldering wires again.
  4. Hiro
    If they're anything like the older Toyota weathershields then there will be little clips that go between the window frame and the bailey channel (the double-lipped rubber strip that seal the top and sides of the window when it is fully up. You might be able to pop them in with the rubber still in place but probably easier if it was removed. weathershield_clip_01 by Ian Rigby, on Flickr weathershield_clip_02 by Ian Rigby, on Flickr
  5. Hiro
    True about the SL/SN difference, but if you drop down to the 5L bottles then the Penrite 5W30 Enviro+ is actually cheaper than the Nulon (HPR5 is a chunk more however)... http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/store/oils-fluids/engine-oil/1021652?pageSize=24&sort=-ProductSummaryPurchasesWeighted%2C-ProductSummaryPurchases&brand=Penrite%2CNulon&variant1=5 Litre&variant2=5W-30&page=1 Sometimes I think there are too many oils on the market with too little obvious differences between them apart from price.
  6. Hiro
    Nulon 5W30 Full Synthetic and Penrite 5W30 Full Synthetic are currently the exact same price at Superchear, $57.99 for 6L. You might be thinking of their 10Tenths racing oil. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/store/oils-fluids/engine-oil/1021652?pageSize=24&sort=-ProductSummaryPurchasesWeighted%2C-ProductSummaryPurchases&variant1=6 Litre&variant2=5W-30&page=1 And that 7L Commodore figure was only for the 3.0L and 3.6L V6. The V8s need even more (7.6L)
  7. Hiro
    Be thankful you don't drive a Commodore then. Even the V6 models need 7+L per oil change, so you still need at least an extra litre bottle even if you buy 6L ones. Oh, and Penrite (another Australian company) also do a full synthetic 5W30 in 6L bottles too...
  8. Hiro
    I must admit that a blown headgasket isn't what you'd expect from overfilling the oil (unless it was at the end of a cascade of failures). Blown crank seal yes, thrown a rod because the oil got aerated from being too close to the crank and killed a big-end bearing yes, but headgasket failures are usually down to either overheating or improper installation
  9. Hiro
    I had a quick look and it seems that the Haynes/Gregorys books that cover the AE112 also do the ZZE122, which is never a good thing as you end up with more generic descriptions or things that aren't valid, especially when you've got two significantly different engines and two significantly different rear chassis/suspension designs. I've got the model prior (AE102) and the Gregorys for _that_ model is really good and specific (since it only covers one model series), if anything you might be better off getting that one as the engine, drivetrain and suspension/brakes are identical between the AE102 and AE112.
  10. Hiro
    18RCs had heaps of power-strangling emissions stuff (hence the -C, ie California Emissions spec).
  11. Hiro
    Got any photos? My guess would be that it's part of the emissions package, so either EGR or secondary air injection ("smog pump")
  12. Hiro
    Unless the seller has updated the ad, the "huge" price difference is a whole $4, which doesn't even buy you a coffee these days. And the 0.2mm height difference (which is bugger-all) is probably due to the thickness of the anti-corrosion coating on the rotor hat. For all intents and purposes, the two rotors are the same size.
  13. Hiro
    Aunger used to be very prevalent at Supercheap before they started going towards their own in-house brands like SCA and Calibre
  14. Hiro
    Brake rotors are cast iron, they will form surface rust in a matter of hours (just look at your rotors after the car has been parked in the rain, the pad area will be covered in rust) but it won't ever penetrate deep enough to be an issue.
  15. Hiro
    Don't assume that the 12L figure is 100% correct. Fuel gauges are inaccurate, distance-to-empty readouts are pessimistic, not everyone fills up their tank to the same level etc etc. Unless there is a fundamental difference in the tank design for some reason then you should still have an 80L tank, and how much of that you deem as usable (based off your interpretation of the fuel gauge and DtE) is up to you.
  16. Hiro
    The traction control can be switched off by pressing Up, Up, Down Down, Left, Right, Left, Right, B, A and then starting the engine. I kid. But yes there is a method for turning off the TCS in an Aurion, it's more convoluted than the Konami Code and you have to do it each time you start the car, but it is a well documented thing, take a look in the pinned Aurion FAQ thread and you'll find it http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/19545-the-tocau-aurion-faq/
  17. Hiro
    They came with a factory defect though where the steering wheel is mounted on the wrong side of the car. Toyota refuse to fix it too.
  18. Hiro
    Avalon has the 1MZFE, not the 2GRFE. And the 2GR is far from bulletproof.
  19. Hiro
    Trace them as far as you can and see what they connect to.
  20. Hiro
    Yes the TRD Aurion front calipers are twin-piston, on a 325mm disc
  21. Hiro
    Maybe the mechanic was getting confused and was thinking about the actual switching for the lights, ie power-switching rather than ground-switching
  22. Hiro
    Has there even been a positive earth car since EFI was introduced?
  23. Hiro
    1) I4, not V4 2) ES350, not LS350
  24. Hiro
    Slotted rotors aren't meant to offer any significant benefit in daily driving, they're a performance product. If you're only driving this thing to work or down to the shops then slotted rotors are complete overkill. Got any photos to explain what you mean by the ridging? Any rust that forms on the actual friction surface will be wiped away in seconds by the pads at the first stop sign/traffic lights, and anything not on the friction surface is irrelevant
  25. Hiro
    The grooves aren't designed to be cleaned by the pads, they are there to help remove gasses generated under repeated heavy braking events and to also act as a knife-edge to clean the pad. The bottom of the groove will never be touched by the pad until the rotors are worn down to that level, at which point they will almost certainly be past their wear limits and need to be replaced. Personally I'm more concerned with performance than looks. If the DBAs stop the car well, then a little surface rust (which is all it is, if you really wanted to you could scuff it back and then paint those areas with high-temp brake paint yourself, making sure to mask off any area touched by the pads) is nothing to worry about.
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