Hiro

TVIS has nothing to do with valve timing OR valve lift, it's a variable intake system. In reference to the original question, VVTL-i was Toyota's original variable lift mechanism, and was only used on the 2ZZGE. However, they have since developed Valvematic to replace both VVTi and lift, but is not wide-spread yet (mostly on certain variants of the ZR engine). There are plenty of other variable valve lift systems by other manufacturers though, such as Valvetronic (BMW), VarioCam Plus (Porsche), VTEC/iVTEC (Honda), Multiair (Fiat), MIVEC (Mitsubishi), VVL/VVEL (Nissan), Campro CPS (Proton), AVLS (Subaru), and CPS (Volvo).

So basically you want to speed without the passengers in the car seeing that you're speeding......

Word of advice if you ever (or if anyone else) get stuck in the same situation again - you don't need a tow truck. If the remote unit fails to work, you can still unlock the car with the key, wait half an hour and then start the engine with the key alone (no need to disable the immobiliser), had to do this a couple of times with my parent's SDV10 when parked under high-voltage power lines or near Black Tower in Canberra because all the EM radiation around screwed with the remote. There should be something in the manual to reflect that too.

And if you can't find it or for some reason your headunit doesn't have a remote trigger output, just tap into the ignition-switched +12v power line to the headunit (the red wire)

links to these? Pirate 4x4 thread - guy refuses to post gears, descends into mayhem, coins a new internet term "To do a Wenzel" Sand port-and-polish - AudiWorld Can't find the body-builder one, but it was an absolute classic...

Recommendation to post problem on boostcruising = Ooops, too late, can't go back now :P Shall this go down in infamy along with the Dana diff-guy, port/polish by pouring sand into the intake, and the body-builder who started getting interested in other men?

i think u are replying to the wrong thread. my prob is regarding diesel in a yaris. pls carefully look at the topic title before posting. You've never heard of the word 'analogy' have you? How about 'metaphor' or 'simile'?

To put it bluntly, unless you're looking for the Autosalon look, 99% of the aftermarket bodykits out there (and there aren't many) are ****house. Best bit is to stick to the factory kits (like the FXGT), the AE101/102s respond really well to nice clean subtle visual mods rather than all-out slam-jobs and more fibreglass than a boat-builder's workshop.

Landing Strip GP Team: Red Bull Drivers: Alonso, Webber Pole: Alonso Fastest: Vettel

Logical? You're the one that thought that when the car started running rough after your g/f put diesel in it, that the problem was firstly not enough oil, and then secondly a flat battery, and that despite many many many warnings about not starting the car, you went ahead and tried starting it, several times.....that's past illogical (against logic) and straight into alogical (no logic whatsoever) territory.

This thread is incomplete without facepalm..... Thread complete, time to go home.

The standard belts you get in just about every parts shop (Dayco, Bosch etc) are in most cases the same as the OEM belts, so unless it was a $2 special there shouldn't be "performance" issues. More likely it was either fitted incorrectly, or the tensioner is stuffed (which should usually be changed with the belt anyway, or at least every second change)

7As don't have automatic tensioners on the accessories belts (if you've got the full fruit models then there are 3 belts - crank/idler/aircon, crank/alternator/water-pump, and waterpump/power-steering pump. The idler pulley on the first belt acts as a tensioner, as does the alternator on the second belt (the power steering pump has no tensioner from memory, unless the mounts do the job). Highly unlikely the timing belt would be "chirping" (unless it is the tensioner pulley on the timing belt, which is spring-loaded) as they are a toothed belt and thus don't slip (and if they are rubbing against the timing cover or jumping teeth then you have bigger problems).

General Falken rule of thumb: ZE/Ziex = budget crap (still probably better than Ling Longs or other Chinese crap though) FK = decent mid-range performance RT/Azenis = awesome semi-slicks.

I always cringe inside when I read these statements. The GR (and all of it's variants) are Toyota engines (Toyota and Lexus are the same company anyway), including the direct-injection models. They appeared in Toyota models several years before they first came out in any Lexus, so the perceived impression that they are "Lexus engines" is complete crap.

Exhaust manifolds have merges and collectors etc to try and pair up particular cylinders so that the pulse of the exhaust gas flowing through the tube is timed so as to not interfere with other cylinders, and to generate smooth flow out the exhaust. With the intake, you are drawing air from a reservoir (the plenum) which has a sufficiently large enough volume so as to eliminate pressure waves and flow fluctuations etc due to the timing of the valves.

1400 (or whatever the Aurion weighs) - 25kg = still heavy. More like 1600kg, but the point is still valid.

So now wouldn't be the time to mention that both my parent's 96 Camry CSi and my '97 Corolla Conquest have the feature too? :P

As a rough guide, the density of petrol increases about 0.5% for every 5 degree drop (assuming you don't go to extremes). Thus, if the morning is say 10 degrees cooler than the afternoon, then you are getting an absolutely massive 1% saving in the amount of petrol when you fill up (assuming the bowsers are calibrated on flow-rate, not mass transfer). 1% of a 50L tank is half a litre, so you're saving 60c or so on a full tank. Then again, petrol is stored in big underground tanks which are very good insulators. Ground temperature stays pretty much constant all year around, day or night (which is how ground-source heat pumps act as air-con in the summer (when the ground is cooler than the air-temp) and heaters in the winter (ground is warmer than air-temp). Thus, the temperature of the petrol is highly unlikely to change until it is sitting in your petrol tank and slowly absorbing heat, well after it has passed through the bowser. So either way, fail. Don't believe everything you read on the internet, kids.

It's cool, I know what they are and what they aren't doesn't really bother me (looking at upgrading to some decent 17s soon anyway). Granted TE37s look better in lower offsets, but around the 16-17" size is definitely their sweet-spot. Didn't actually specify that I didn't want the stickers when I ordered them, they just came without them (which is good, so I didn't have to worry about taking them off and scratching the paint).

It's not as simple as just "wiring something up", the conditions for auto-shutoff of headlights requires some sort of logic control (as you need to be able to turn headlights on regardless of ignition key position, same with the hazards). Cars which run auto-shutoff when you open the driver's door run a Body Control Module (BCM) or similar which controls the power door locks etc, and there is logic control inside that module to detect that the ignition key has been turned off and the driver's door opened, but will allow the lights to be turned back on if the headlight switch is cycled to off and back on again, even if the key is out of the ignition and/or the door is open. The other option is to set up your own latch relays which are triggered by certain conditions but reset automatically after being triggered. Either way, it's not a simple task. In all seriousness, the buzzer is there for a reason, and if you're too lazy to turn the lights off then I'm amazed that you can even find the effort to pull the keys from the ignition and open the door. Be thankful you don't drive an older car with no sort of buzzer or auto-off switch - the lights could be turned on at any time and only turned off when you flicked the switch or your battery was drained.

If you re-read what I posted, you'll see that nowhere did I mention that you shouldn't be unhappy with the level of service that you received, neither did I say that the dealership was not to blame, and neither did I say that you should just let it slide. I was just pointing out that whenever you go into these situations you have to keep in mind that mistakes can happen and things can get taken out of context or misunderstood, especially when you're angry/annoyed. Deal with it in a calm, collected, professional manner, not acting as if the dealership as a whole (thus bringing in new ad used sales and upper management, not just the service department) is a bunch of money-hungry thieves who don't give a damn about personal service and making sure the job is done right.

A full tank of fuel is only 1/2 to 2/3rds the weight of a passenger in the back seat, so the change in height isn't _that_ drastic. You'd get the reverse effect by having a passenger in the front and none in the back, plus most cars these days have the fuel tank under the rear seat so some of the weight will get distributed to the front wheels anyway (again, like half a backseat passenger)