Manxman

The head will not/cannot conduct heat away fast enough to let a bigger radiator help. There are NO alloy heads for 2L,3L,5L motors. Only the 2L can be turboed with any degree of safety. Basically, you can't far exceed the power output of a std 5L motor, as they are the most powerful "safe" version. They built a new motor to turbo the 3.0l, with very good reason. NB a 5L motor is very close to the thermal limits of the head, and are "known" to give trouble if driven too hard for too long. Consider a transplant before a rebuild, but I doubt you'll get far without a much later engine--which will have the horrible efi, with all it's risks and problems. If you're going bush you need your engine to keep going under all conditions. EFI is, IMO, very quick to fail when it does, and driving out of the remote bush in limp mode, if it runs at all, may be so difficult/slow as to kill you. You may have to get it towed to a major town for repairs, which will be expensive. At least, it being a Toyota, there will usually be skilled mechanics with parts to do the job rurally. Other makes are not so blessed.

The std 2.4 turbo will do, but there are 2 things you should know: Your motor is aged and prob worn, and may not take the extra stresses well without at least a set of rings, and prob a lot more. Heat is the biggest enemy of these iron head motors--the 2.8l and 3.0l motors were deliberately NOT turboed by Toyota to avoid warranty and long term problems. These motors are luggers, not powerhouses, and extracting more power is relatively futile, because of the cost. Note: You WILL need a boost compensator for your fuel pump. There's few spare ones left, let alone one that works. You can do it, and you will have some improvement, but you may cook your head or worse, and you will exascerbate any problems the motor now has. I recommend against it, but you may make your own choice-you have been warned. .

Problem: I've dropped a cut down stainless steel fork into a cambox oil drain on the No#3 Inlet valve area. It was abt 4cm long, abt 1cm wide and abt 2mm thick. waisted in center area., not straight. Could this have caught in the top of the sump so that the crankshaft can hit or squash it against c'case upper.? How to remove/break it off if it has? reversing motor difficult unless I remove starter and lever it back. Am I likely to have damaged anything if so? How hard to remove sump in situ? LN147R, 5L motor.

hiluxes are NOT built as powerhouses. If you want power, buy a Nissan-they have bigger engines, and their own problems. Improving performance by extra charge pressure & flow would be marginal at best, unless you want to put your motor at risk of failure. Let well enough alone, and stop wasting money is my advice. Reconditioning a turbo is not hard, there would be several websites with detailed info and helpful people. Don't forget to change your injector seals, or you may block up your oil pickup screen in the sump. A known problem in 05-07 diesel models AFAIR.

REJOICE!!! My motor runs!!!!! Unfortunately, it has a knock-suspect No#4 ex tappet, which is almost 0.40mm clearance. The knock was quite distinct and cam speed, and it's the biggest gap, so I guess that's it. I wasn't game to run it long enuff to check where the sound was orginating. I'll check the cam bearing caps for tightness, jic. full oil pressure immediately, No leaks of any kind. The battle is almost won. anyone know how to pull out a fuel tank from a lowered [38mm] LN147R? I need to close up a puncture. Anyone got a spare 2L-T(e) rocker cover? I need one. Electronic battery desuphators work, IME. Mine has been on for 4 weeks, and resurrected a sulphated but <4yo battery that's been idle 12 mths. . I bought mine as an assembled kit on ebay for abt $10-, and it works. I've permanently attached it to my trickle charger, rather than my car. I disconnect my Earth cable when charging. It's been over 3 yrs since I started this. I'm horrified it took so long.

Take the alt, a/c and PS belts off the motor. Feel crank pulley hard for looseness and brief run motor-observe pulley. wobble can be bent crankshaft or bad harmonic ballancer, could lead to timing error - renew as required. can use hand to see if pulley at all loose. ur at that mileage/age.

I'm running dry. Anything get hotspots with a few km of driving - diff, brakes, tailshaft bearings, wheel bearings, tyres, gearbox? It should be able to clear 4000rpm under load. Crushed/blocked exhaust? dragging brake/gearbox/diff? Jack a rear wheel and rock it, feel free play, 15deg acceptable, rotate wheel-should be modest drag, no noises or jerky stop. wheel weight more problem than drag. wobble all wheels hard 9-3 o'clock and 6-12 o'clock by hand, any movement is bad. Check center tailshaft brg rubber by push pull sideways-should not move much. When were diff/g'box last serviced and what oil was used? I'm suspicious-have fuel pump tested for correct delivery pressure and flow, make sure injector lines clear, test injectors for blockages,, test injector coils for resistance and wiring for damages. Does motor run smooth, or shake? Does it have a variable mass flywheel? Something is tight, or fuel supply/timing is wrong. CHECK cam timing!!!! 1 tooth out would do it.

Have you run it in propperly over at least 1000km, constantly varying speed and gradually increasing it and loads? READ the Owners Manual for more advice! I'm sure it's online. Running in will complete in abt 10000km but most of it can be done in the 1st 1000 or so. If you don't run it in it WILL FALL appart rapidly.. I assume a poor ring seal (do blowby test) due to not run in, It may be too late to recover now, as you may have damaged the pistons/rings. by driving too hard too soon. IMPORTANT: Check sump oil level now and for the next few weeks EVERY DAY to see if it's going down. Check often on longer distances. Keep full. If it's light, them improves, you got away with some of it, If it just gets worse, you have to do the rebuild again. The motor will run hotter than normal until it's sorted. Drive moderately. Ignorance, the great destroyer; Willfull ignorance, the great tragedy.

I discovered this morning that I hadn't connected the fuse box power wire to the battery, so no harm done with reversal. Also, starter motor power lead was shorting at the solenoid connection. It needed a bend. Then I cranked it. Abt 90 seconds cramking with plugs out and we have oil pressure!!! No leaks!!! No nasty noises!!! It's a great feeling, to have all that effort and time verified. HOORAY!!!!

Battery is Varta 72Ah 360A DIN 680A EN/SAE Charge at 4A took >14hrs<18.5hrs to charge 11.7V ->14.5V @ 14hrs. Suggest batt down abt 30% on first charge. Will retry it in car Mon. I'm dreading what I get, as a partly reverse charged batt was installed. Nothing worked but the sparks wern't huge, so perhaps the alternator took all the current and saved the electronics? I'm being hopeful, we'll see it I'm being real. Charger has Video card fan installed for cooling 0.2W, o'wise it whisps of smoke after a few hours on full load. Very bad-dangerous design. Will notify seller.

injector timing? what oil you running, motor still tight from rebuild, dragging brake/bad wheel alignment, dirty airfilter? There shoud be a co**** filter in tank, its good practice to have them, but other good things left off to save money, so...... Is it auto? whats your max loaded rpm? what are you carrying and are you driving uphill/headwind.

Not good to flog new motors--run them in, 1000km to 10,000km. change filters, inc the one in the tank-if old fuel beware water and thus algae blocking fuel system Poison is avail. Did you reconn the injectors, or replace them-if not consider it.

I'm preparing to spin my rebuilt motor to get oil pumped round it. I'll remove the glowplugs to make it easier. I've bought a 1-4A pulse charger battery desulphating charger from melb. Boforce Intelligent charger $59-- ebay. It's cheaper than a new battery i'll only use 3 times in the next year. I'm testing it on an old 4cyl car battery that hasn't been charged for some 3yrs. it's currently sitting on 11.7V at the 3rd hour of the third restoritive charge and it's pretty hot. There's about a 10% duty cycle of reverse charge spike every 6 seconds to re-absorb the sulphate. I'm undecided whether the programming is timed, or floating. The first charge ended very close to 4hrs duration, so I'm suss, but maybe that's a fluke. I suspect that this battery is too far gone and too small to spin my diesel, but I'm satisfied the idea works, and that a sulphated battery is at least partly recoverable and fit for purpose. I doubt it can turn the motor with so little oc voltage, and it hasn't risen for 2.5 hrs @ 4A.

The handbrake light switch is under the dash, about midway from the floor to the dash and close to the RHS of the center console. It is likely the wire or switch is damaged, dirty or loose. A small physical build is useful to sort it, as there's not a lot of room. It's almost certainly an intermittent short-these are the worst kind, because it's hard to detect when, where and if it's fixed.

Smoke: unburnt fuel/oil. Couyld be many things. could just need bedding in, or could have bad rings/pistons/valve seals. Owner could have richened the pump to get more power. You really need to know what was done to engine. Your haven't mentioned mileage, so I'll guess 250-300000km. Price seems high, even for rebuilt motor. They cost abt $4k to do up well, less if DIY but people cut corners if they can-not always ends well. The other repairs have a value, and then the body generally. Utes are in demand, and go for a premium, even if trash. Lots of thieves about-be careful.

Warning: This is a modest powered vehicle, capable of lugging and hard if slow work. If its your first diesel, there will be some big differences in the way it HAS to be driven. The motor performance is not easily improved, you will have to be largely content with what you get. Test drive one-(hire) before you buy. Motor should NOT have great blowby, though it apparently needs bedding in-a slow process. Change motor oil every 5000km, 7500 and filter if hi useage. I made a post a way back about buying older hiluxes-look it up. Keep in touch, we can help with most of your problems. NB the Nissan is a bigger and more powerful vehicle, BUT it lacks the universality of the hilux, the commoness of parts and maintenance skills. This is a good model, being one of the last of the mechanical injection ones. There are advantages in that of reliability and slower, more predictable failures and easier repair skills. EFI has a terrible reputation in outback Oz for sudden, expensive, difficult repairs, long distance towing and lack of skills/tools to fix. If your life depends on it, KISS so it's fixable on site. Anything rare or complex is at a disadvantage. It is built to a price, and improvement is possible with money, time and tools. It's a workhorse, not a show pony, and whilst not fast or quick, should be very reliable. NB the 5L motor is at the end of development with this series, suffering from a poorly cooled iron head, which can warp or crack if pushed too hard. A new 3.0l motor was necessarily built to take a turbo. Make sure it's NOT from a flooded area, as if it's been drowned it will have too many problems. Check door drains to see they aren't blocked/too heavy with mud etc.

I'm astonished that they've been deleted. My 1999 model has serveral different delays for its intermittent wipers. Must be a cost cutting measure, because it sure isn't safety. I'm sure retrofitting is possible, given time money tools.

pump should be ok unless it's been allowed to dry out for too long. Empathy for you and your hard times. Sadly, price of a hilux is largely determined by demand, and sellers can always find someone desparate enough to pay their price. Leaves big door open for thieves on the unwary or unskilled. Fuel heater is broken wire, or burned out? I hope you've got the correct head gask thickness and the head is marked correctly-don't re-use the head bolts-fit new ones-they're abt $50 a set AFAIR. or they might break off! Hiluxes are good for what they are, they're difficult to alter their functionality, and although often lacking power in the owners' mind, they do their job well. Improvement is possible, of course, but only within original functionality. If it's power you want, get a Nissan, The motors are bigger, as is the body, but they aren't the same as having a Toyota. Many of those advantages come from Toyotas' market share and carefully built reputation, notwithstanding the higher price. It's a testament to how good they are at what they do that they sell so well.

Sorry to hurt you. Please, you have to be able to read and interpret the fault codes from the Chip. Each vehicle seems different, although there appears to be a common reader tool for some. You will NEED a good w/s manual and a soft touch, but it's now the only way forward. I expect a bad connectors or damaged wires, but it could be worse. if using a voltmeter, ONLY use a digital one because it's less likely to damage sensitive things. Be particularly careful not to short any wire that goes to the emu. Boats==standing under cold shower tearing up $100 note, or hole in water you fill in with money.. When it's sorted, it should be good. I hope you only paid what it was worth, tho' there are many thieves about.

I could suggest a 5L injector pump........ Solves a lot of problems. I presume you planed the head, and perhaps the block? Why did the gsk fail? You will need to use the onboard diagnostic systems and perhaps a reading tool to see what's faulty Most EMU's have LED readouts to help you. The board is behind the passenger 's left foot panel, I believe. WARNING: This could get expensive-depending what has failed or disconnected. Do NOT remove cover from EMU, all you will do is destroy it. If it's faulty, disconnect the battery, pull it out and take to qualified professional technician for repair. REPEAT: Not an owner servicable part. Leave it alone. It's electrically fragile, and randomly touching the innards damages them.

buckled clutch plate/needs adjustment if it jerks while released.

Intercooler is good idea, it will drop motor intake and head temps. better radiator cooling might be more difficult to actually achieve.

yes, but there will only be a small power increase. The extra cooling is most welcome as long as the extra power is not overused. The iron head is poorly cooled, and almost on its thermal limit. The turbo is a risk for a 5L. do u have a boost compensator? If you increase the fuel supply, then you have more power, if not, you have the same power sooner. Tojo built a new motor for a 3.0L turbo--with good reason, because the existing motor couldn't take it. Not even with an alloy head, it seems.

It will make some positive difference, chipping will make some more, but don't expect too much. Your economy will prob drop a bit. Hiluxes, petrol and particularly diesels, are not powerhouses. They are light duty workhorses, and geared accordingly. They do not tow great masses or windages--you need a 4WD for that. Motor swapping seems to be a great pastime, but the chassis can only take so much strain. All the 2L & 3L diesels can be upgradedto the 5L motor without fear, The later motors can generally be retrofitted. V8's are possible, but rarely worth the trouble and HAVE to be LPG to be affordable. If you want power, buy a Nissan, they have bigger motors std, and their own unique problems.

under the RHS of the steering wheel is a panel with fuses one side(?) and relays on the other. It has s single screw mount one end. at the far end from the screw, come in 1 row of 2 relays, then 1/2 a row that's it. It has a 3 pin connection, arranged in a T shape. It plugs in and out without tools. I can't work out how to give you a picture-the image won't cut and paste because it's a part of a >200 page pdf and I can't attach the file.