Manxman

If V6 or similar, I would expect g'box and diff upgrade too. Brakes will prob be ok, unless >120% max diesel power NB changing from diesel to petrol isn't overly difficult, but still requires much thought. The expense may not be worth the bother, tho' I hear it's been done. If its KW you want, wrong car-don't. hilux not suited to great power upgrades.

You're being hopeful, asking it to do that job. It's giving every indication of being overloaded. Hilux, even 4WD later models, not usually suited to heavy towing duties, particularly at speed. For large loads/big boats/hi winds-they aren't really recommended. You need at least 6 cylinders to tow well, with an auto tranny and lots of extra cooling. >4L is recommended for such work. A Landcruiser or similar. Avoid gas conversions-they're risky. Sorry to pop the dream, but that's all it is. You can't do that work on the cheap. You HAVE to have a vehicle built to do it--and they are getting scarce IMHO.

Many posts (<=4yrs) ago someone suggested that they were hard to get, and used ones often didn't work. Ask around and see what can be done if not available.

On the intake side of motor, the Vacuum feed goes to the actuator of the intake butterfly valve, and then to the vacuum solenoid on the firewall. This closes off the intake when the motor is switched off. The actuator may be hidden by the intake plastic plumbing? I presume there is connection for vacuum to the brake booster. Check that vacuum pump work properly, at least 25-30in of Hg should be available. Pumps do wear-replace alternator and starter motor (2.7kW) complete if not done so by 300,000km. Ebay often has them. 5l, 5L-e same afaik.

5L is not intended for turbo power increase. Would prob be ok if no turbo and a good g'box. Beware the heat!!!!!!!

Diesel starters are usually internally reduction geared types, which usually means an offset motor body in the more powerful ones. The Denso one you've pictured is probably typical dimensions of any suitable electric starter. Investigate an air starter if you must, but you could be in deep trouble. A modified torque stay might be difficult to get approved. I hope you have approval in principle from licensing before you started-if not, get it before proceeding further. See permitted vehicle modifications online

3" will breath well, but u don't want it too loud, esp if it's a long journey. There are rules about it, and if u breach them, it'll cost dearly.

My rebuild of my LN147R is now abandoned, and the car sold off cheap to a wrecker/exporter. I had to really fight hard to get just a few hundred for it. It prob won't be replaced, as I'm becoming unfit to hold a license., if what my friends say is true. I'll continue to be a forum resource if wanted.

Hiluxes are not intended as powerhouses. If your towing requires such a bigger motor, consider slowing down, or a Landruiser etc. which will give you the necessary chassis strength too. You can do almost anything with time money and tools, but the outcomes are too often worse than the beginning. There's good reason why hiluxes aren't built with V8 motors as OEM. Do it if you like, but don't be disappointed when it's finished, or you try to onsell the modified vehicle. NB: B4 u start, get approval in principal from your licensing authority-they will decide whether to accept the idea. The guidelines for modified vehicles are avail online--READ, UNDERSTAND AND OBEY them.

Sept/October seem to be the times for changing models--it MIGHT be better than existing one, but caution is recommended. Let someone else find the defects--it's a lot cheaper/easier, and there's been quite a few big recalls ex Nippon last few years. BTW, if you can afford a new one, you must be doing well. Depeciation is a killer for private owners.

Has fuel--is it reaching the plugs????? Has spark--assume timing reasonable or it wouldn't fire. I'm suspicious of the fuel cut off solenoid and its wiring--pls examine closely and report.

I recommend eBay for a vehicle mmaintenance CD. They have info. 8 have no CD drive to read mine ATM. <$10? 2 power, one constant, one assessory, one earth and 2 for each speaker. A voltmeter would make it easy. U should keep power and earth wires short and thick For quality sound, partic at high power. The CD is very useful strong fly recommended as cheap good info …

I recommend eBay for a vehicle mmaintenance CD. They have info. 8 have no CD drive to read mine ATM. <$10?

Mileage? Much offloading? No oil leaks?c9uld be left front drive train or mechanicals there. Its the first such to go, always. Check for excess movement or heat after run. CV might have been swapped rather than replaced as cheap life extender…

Front, back , wherefrom, only in reverse? Harsh metalic bring hi or low pit h? Have you had a look for foul8ng by rock or plant material.cyclical or continuous. Wheel speed or not. Happens when rolling clutch in and out?

Corroded connections or very thined wires at a kink. Be careful not to break off any tags. If halogen bulbs do NOT touch them by hand without washing the glass in metho before refitting, or they will explode! Let air dry.

Affair 05-07, replace them more often seems to solve it. Check any just aquired vehicles sump pickup for blockage.

Broken/loose pivot bolt?

Hot motor thined oil poor compression. Rebuild

Where do u plan to go off road? If very remote area it may be better to stay with the older diesels with mech injection Very common. Repairs available everywhere. Efi less so. Other makes worse. KISS. Not powerrfull but reliable. Leave as is for safety.

Get at least 2 as ull do it again.

IPerhaps an older lock with an external security module and uncoded ign key is cost effectfive?

Diesel? injector wear? they're due for service at that age. Prove by listening closely to a large screwdriver handle with the other end in contact with each injector, or other noise source. or you can solder a coathanger wire loop to the base of an open tin can and its tail will be louder. at the can mouth. AND check your tappets.

If automatic MUST be in Park to start--check switch on gear lever. susspect worn/broken wire..... there aere wires for revese lights too, don;t mix them up

In reality, if you have a turbo, 3" is almost mandatory to get max available power. For aspirated motors, less will do, but it's still a reasonable idea to be pursued when fitting a new system. NB. NOT ALLOWED to re-use any Cat that has been removed. Must be new only. There are 4 requiremants: It has to fit safely, meet pollution standards, and allow adequate performance without harm. The last is the most important: it has to be acceptable to your state licensing authorities at inspection and for the life of the vehicle. The 4th contains all the first 3, but without it, you're still not going anywhere. The rules are ever more restrictive on what you can change from original specs, and they will only get worse with time. Car makers build compromises, and take short cuts to reduce costs, rather than make a car which no-one will afford, even though it does everything perfectly. It's on the public record that a US carmake refused to spend $0.75 per car on a safety feature because it was cheaper to pay compensations for the expected 4 lives per year that would be lost. When dealing with the produce of such thinking, be very careful and don't get your hopes up. They can, will, and do deliberately do things to disadvantage you, espec if it's cheaper to do it that way, and/or it makes them money in repairs later. See drum rear brakes. There's no good reason not to have had discs all round years ago, except the dealers wanted an excuse to make money. GMH also had that disease for too long, and several others. Even those cheap, crappy Pajero's/Magnas (and Sigmas?) had 4W discs from early on. They had other problems of their own, but their brakes were extremely good.