Manxman

Bad shock/tyres/brakes/buckled rim is my guess, tho' Wup indicates tyres--someone post a recording of sound? Noting age of plantif vehicles-seems common problem? Win't be pre-diff at 1/4 road speed, driveshaft goes the other way-4x road speed. Spin wheel off ground-check for bulges and true running, wobble wheel to check tie rods/steering box. Are tyres 8ply? check wheel ballance & tyre separation. It's not human, the possibilities are finite.

Not recommending the medical kit, but all else ok, as long as heat/oil dirt won't damage them, and they can't foul on the motor/battery..

Caravan: Hi drag object normally, speed is the problem-requiring constant hi horsepower to drag it along. the mass is less of a problem, except on long/steep slopes. Drag increases at the cube of change of speed. Iron head motors later than 2L should not be turboed for more power--they cannot take the extra heat. Sadly, there aren't many current vehicles which will do the job well. The hilux will tow the van at modest speeds ok, provided you check the diff/rear axle for wear first, and if frequent towing, shorten your gearbox/diff service interval. I would recommend a cruising speed near 80kph for a hi windage load, to protect your motor and bank ballance. Slow even more with headwinds. Please run an oil pressure gauge, because if the motor overheats, the first thing you'll see is a drop in oil pressure. There is limited time to act to protect your motor once that happens. Keep the oil topped up, this will help keep the oil cool. Consider a bypass oil filter if frequent towing or frequent full boost running. You can calculate your approximate power output from your fuel consumption. 3.3KWHr/Liter. a 3.0 diesel hilux should get around 10km/L @ 100kph without load. So you can estimate that 40KW is enough for a d'cab to cruise at 100kph empty as a baseline. All extra power/fuel beyond that is heat to pull the load, and it has to go somewhere, or build up motor temp. NB some of the later D4D motors have their own problems with injector seal failure, resulting in a blocked oil pickup if not watched closely. other posts discuss this.

i grow tired of saying this, If your engine has an iron head======DON'T!!!!! Toyota built a new engine to turbo the 3.0 class---with VERY good reason. Hiuxes don't last long if used for towing boats at speed, or any other big hi windage loads. These days, ONLY a 'Cruiser or similar has the body and motor strong enough to do that job. You have to slow down somewhat, or you spend too much on fuel, and put your drive train at risk, let alone yourself and passengers from anything untoward happening. Get the right vehicle for the job, don't try and do it on the cheap. It will cost, or you may have to do it differently - like hire the tow car when you need it, and drive something modest for the rest of the year, or give up towing.

AFAIK offset is fixed by the construction of the hubs and brakes of the car. I doubt you can safely choose a non-standard offset for your vehicle, but I have been wrong before. You prob need to talk with tyre and wheel shops. I presume you're going off-road, so make sure the rims are strong enough. Steel ones can be bent back into shape, but alloy ones break if hit hard. Make sure they're a common type, as you may need more than 5.

try going slower, it's the cheapest option.

I've made a lot of prior comments abt doing this. To be brief--it's not advisable. You can do it, but there are "problems" with the extra heat. BIG problems. use the search utility.

My default ones are 10 micron. Going much smaller just reduces the flow too much unless there's a positive pressure comming into the filter. Their main purpose is to remove water, rather than solids.

Kongratulations for at least doing your homework/research. NB Tojo's generally aren't racing powerhouses, there are other makers for that. They ared supposed to be reliable, functional work vehicles of adequate performance, legendary durability and not too expensive to keep. That said, they aren't perfect, and could always do with some improvements the maker elected not to installl. Welcome, and enjoy your motoring. Abt the end of the next 5 yrs, you will be due for a number of small items to be replaced, which will prob cost several $K's, but once done, you'll be ready for another 250,000km. Oil changes EVERY 5000km, with quality oil. If you're doing big milages, consider a Jackmaster bypass oil filter. NB Electronic failures are expensive and good help for them is not always available in remote Oz.

Your driving technique could use some improving. Full throttle from low rpm is no way to drive economically, environmentally nor practically. I call such eople <Lead Feet>, too unskilled to realize that there is an ideal maximum amount of throttle to increase speed with from any rpm/load. CV carbs will always sit on the ideal throttle for the rpm and load, but they re slow response. EFI will just chuck in fuel according to a formula, which may have some restraint to reduce pollution. Excess fuel in a moden petrol vehicle will result in unburnt fuel in the exhaust--this typically burns in the catalytic converter, where the excess heat melts the core in it, requiring replacement. An expemsive item you're not allowed to buy used. I'm not saying you don't have a flat spot-I'm saying you need to learn how to drive better and, sick motors should not be flogged along-<things> can go terribly wrong.

Welcome to the club! be nice to have a year and which motor, but its ok. It does sound like selector failure, but either way, it's prob going to have to come out to fix it. pls check your clutch for wear and replace the clutch bearing before refitting. If you're anywhere near 200,00km or more, pls replace front and rear gearbox and motor seals unless recently done. it will save pulling down again just to do them - they are cheapish. .

What failed, and why? NB new seals at front and rear of tranny should have been mandatory. Were you trying to hurry it to make up for poor performance? What is servicing history for tranny? Most unusual to wear out a motor so soon--harsh driving &/or poor maintenance suspected. Automatic failure similar-trannys normally give long life if serviced properly. Rare for a Tojo to fail so soon without very good reason. Edit#1 Sorry, 07 D4D -- these motors have a design fault where the injector seals fail early, and if not changed often, their engine oil carbonizes and the carbon blocks the oil pickup. Affects 05-07 motors AFAIK. Doesn't explain tranny, tho'.

Changing vehicle height ALWAYS makes life harder for prop shafts and ther joints, because they are permanently further out of alignment than normal. It's prob a CV or universal joint. Does it alter fwd/rev and/or L & R turning? It's a middle aged car, expect some expensive problems-particularly CV's and uni's, brakes, clutch etc.......

Tacho is electronic, driven by 2 wires on fuel pump. the third wire is the fuel cutoff solenoid, which deactivates to stop the motor. sensor could be faulty. or not connected, bevause the connectors are different. does fuel pump have a round "hat" on top of it, or is it just rectangular from above. That hat is a boost compensator and is necessary to get the most power from the Turboed motor. fuel tank is abt 60L? Then you might have a problem with mileage. check brakes for drag, take unnnecessary weight off car, reduce air drag-roof bars/lights, flapping tonneau cover, windows up at speed, aircon/lights/cabin fan off when possible, my std 5L consistently got 10km/l @ 100kph empty on a 68L tank. My longest run was Perth - Albany - Perth. 420km Unless you are using a lot more power than me (why?) you should be getting similar. fuel consumption is directly related to power produced--3.3KWhr/Liter for typical diesel in good condition. You won't know if the motor is reconned, and you need to start it and whilst idling briefly remove the oil filler cap. and put your hand avove it. The stronger the airflow out of the motor, the worse the rings are, there will be some oil carried out by the air, the more of that ditto. Replace cap and tighten properly-do not overtightem on hot motor, or you won't easily undo it again. If heavy blowby, do compression test and post results in kpa or pis. poor compression ==poor mileage, hot motor and all manner of troubles. Opinion: It's a likely problem, given the age of the engine. See my post some pages back about buying an older hilux-it contains many of the typical problems you may be facing.

The only things you can do are to slow down, and improve aerodynamics - Over diameter wheels are prob illegal. Maintain tyre pressures on the high side - but watch the wear pattern. Drive gently, partic in traffic or suburbs. Changing diff ratios is not easy, and is expensive. Keep coaster hubs on freewheel but engage 4WD at least monthly for 0.5 km to keep the seals lubricated. If automatic, it's almost a lost cause - as torque converter slip is always going to kill your economy. Keep vehicle as empty as possible, keep windows up at speed, use aircon sparingly.

It's 4WD ute - they're normally undergeared in top so they can haul loads. Gearing sounds about right. You should be able to get abt 10km/l if you're gentle & empty at that speed. My asprirated 5L did it constantly. (LN147R 4x2) Be careful, the 5L is not often turboed because it's too close to the thermal limitations of the iron head - overheating if driven too hard, is just too easy to do. You would benefit from good extra gauges if you watched them intelligently. BTW there's nothing else particularly better in that price range/year. Be content, don't flog it along, do the maintenance on time and it will be fine. As a rough guide, you will produce about 3.3KW/Liter/hr with an average diesel. Petrol engines cannot get anywhere near that. They do have more total KW, but lack the low speed torque of a diesel. Also, running your motor beyond abt 2500rpm invites fuel wastage, as the fuel doesn't all burn before the ehaust valve opens. this is normal diesel behaviour, hi speed diesels (>2000rpm) lose fuel efficiency as rpm gets greater than that. The 5L will take 4500rpm, but it would have terrible mileage up there.

The surround comes off from the LHS of the steering wheel to the LHS of the radio in one piece. It's held by screws on its RHS only. once it's off, you can reach down to the 4 corner mounted screws holding the Radio and (not installed) amplifier box. It's approx twice the depth of the radio. CAREFULLY pull box out, disconnecting as you have room. It might pay to have battery disconnected at this time, incase there are bare/loose wires. radio should unplug with antenna and a multi-pin jack The multipin jack is an adapter and is connected into the standard wiring of the car. Some people nake a mess of intalling it. If factory fitted, it will prob. be ok. I would check it closely before reconnecting power. If all ok, put some elect. tape over the face of the conector block to prevent "things" entering it and shorting. It has a permanent live wire and a switched live wire. It appears the Toyota radios are interchangable, but if another make you may need a new adapter plug, and you will need to know it's designed and manufactured for the Australian market. Oz market radios have superior detection circuitry and pre-amps for longer range reception than our Asian/European/USA neighbours. Our fewer local radio stations service a much larger area than theirs and need better reception range.

Is that a 5L or 5Le? They have heaps of take off torque, use less fuel/kw than petrol, but are neither fast nor quick. They run a long time with few problems until abt 250,000km, then after a head job and some other things will do the same again. See my other posts, particularly buying a used hilux diesel.

compare both motor power outputs. if the commodeor is similar it will be ok. tolerance abt 10% at most. Radiator MUST be big enough to handle motor kw dissipation... There are calculations for it online. I will guess and suggest you'll need ther best cooling you can get. That might be a tripple core brass core, or it might be an aluminium radiator. I don't know which. The Ali rads have plastic tanks, which eventually rupture near the top inlet due to thermal stress.

Call me arrogant, but it appears they aren't sure what they're talking about, and I'd be very angry if $1K spent didn't fix it, which it might not. Finding someone who actually understands efi and can properly diagnose problems is too difficult. I won't own an efi vehicle because good help is so scarce.

The aircon pipes are roughly above the slave cylinder, which has to be accessed from below. Unless something fell onto pipe and cracked it, or it was undone in error, it's unlikely to be their fault.If in dash fault, most unlikely, as m/cyclinder is accessed from engine bay, with a clevis pin being removed in front of the driver's left foot area. Aircon unit is on other side of cab. in front of passengers' left foot.

Fans off, front pulley undone, can't find my puller--think I took it to Albany farm with a few other tools..... Can't remember exactly, but can borrow one from mate. A few hours and I'll have that camshaft installed '& the oilways plumbed. That wi;ll leave the PS pulley and the shims, then motor is finished. Just don't rush it boy. Not now, not after all this.

You have to try every possible solution. I don't have an alternative I can think of. I expect others to be similarly minded, but not all. I know I've over capitalized on it, but it's nearly done, and walking away now is not an economic option. This is WA, and the people won't pay a fair price for a good viable vehicle. Mechanically, I've spent what's needed, there's still some labours, but no more parts needed. it's the certificates, licensing and tyres I have to fund.

Progress: A wrecker has a PS pulley at reasonable price/ the fan pulley boss is clear all round by 2mm. When it;s off, I'll grind the corners of the but underneath which are causing the problem. I'm unable to borrow the necessary money to finish it off and licence it to start employment as an independent casual cpurier, so I've decided to appeal for crowdfunding. If you like reading about my efforts, pls help me out. I'll post the link tomorrow. I'll continue to contribute to the site when I think I have something to offer. Thanks in advance, friends.

which motor, what's your idle rpm? km travelled? does it only happen in gear? If watery fuel, drain fuel filter by tap at bottom. Some fuels better than others, often depending on storage and handling practices of retailers, and how much is in the storage tank when you fill up. Experience here is the only guide, preferably someone elses'.