Manxman

1997-2004 hilux maintenance CD often on ebay for <$10- Cover motors, body and electrics in detail. Complex but complete IMO. Very worthwhile readable via Linux/win -prob mac Several hundreds of pages, best in big screen, but notebook ok.

Advice noted-will try to follow. Need to do some local research.

I fear I'm going to do something dumb, so I'll ask first.. I need an enclosed cargo space behind the driver of my s'cab chassis. I can continue to build a box with doors, or, try to afford a professional mod, but no-one seems interested in Perth. The body builders don't make short tray bodies (760mm req'd), and they're too wide (1.8M v 1.6M) and they don't have floors. (!=950mm h) I can't easily see why they won't do it, unless they're afraid it'll be too $$$ to modify an existing kit. So, can anyone please tell me what's involved in changing a s'cab body to a dual cab body of the same series? Is it purely bolt off/on, or is there cut and weld involved. Assume bare shells. as much detail as practical please. If cut and weld, where should I cut for simplicity. NB a closed rear chamber is not unacceptable. Thx.

Damn nice post. Tell'em straight. Will differ on 2 things - I think Penrite HPR Diesel is ok, and usig a bypass filter propperly can save money on hi use cars. Not recommended for occasional use/short run vehicles.

New cam shim bought from Precision Shims Australia at almost 1/3 OEM price. Will be fitted later today, I'll pour oil over the length of the camshaft and secure the cover. Connecting up all turbo ait plumbing being the last motor repair task 2B done prior to test cranking motor. Leaves replace battery, fixing tank & rear lights, adjust braking ballance device, and mount tub propperly to have it ready for inspection. There are some bodywork issues-but they're minor. It's been a long time, and a big job on scarce money, but it was always better than the losses of starting again with another vehicle. On current budget It won't be licensed for at least another year, or it will be sold as a going concern, but the job is almost done. Thanks to all of you whom have journied with me.

Late comment. All seat changes are a risk to the safety of the vehicles' passengers, and thus must be approved prior to doing it. If not approved, you could lose your ctp insurance, and be found to be driving an unroadworthy vehicle. NB there are some permitted mods which are automatically approved--see licensing in your state before proceeding.

You have efi? check for fault indicator code. Does your throttle system have full mechanical travel from idle to max power? Does your throttle position sensor have full travel with the cable movement? Is it and its' connections clean and dry? Does the exhaust go black on full throttle at limited rpm? Does moter get too hot if worked? Verify clear air inlet passage/clean air filter. Verify fuel pressure, clean/test injectors, There should be an in- tank filter-check it. Has the motor been sitting unused for a period? are all cylinders firing? How much fuel is being returned to the tank from the injectors? Is it nearly due for a cam belt? Has the timing belt slipped? Check rpm sensor. Vertify clear, undamaged exhaust. Blocked pipes/mufflers do bad things.

define cuts out pls. does it run ok for a while the stop, or does it peter out? does it suddenly cut out? I'm suspecting a blocked fuel filter or similar. Remove it, estimate weight. They shouldn't be heavy. Has it water in fuel? Or algae?

not likely, as you've crossed the series boundary, [which usually changes here in August with hiluxes] out of series bodywork won't usually fit, neither may many other parts. In series parts are usually bolt on.

Ta, TM

will someone with a 5L please measure the thickness of the dustplate between motor and gearbox and post it here?

Starter fouling ring gear? Had to loosen it to turn motor w spanner. Only one shim to be replaced, all other clearances ok, so it's ready to test crank to oil pressure. All I need is to borrow/hire a battery for a week to use and recharge it twice, as I imagine that's what's needed. I'll extract the glowlugs to make it easy.

Vacuum leak---look at the pipe & fittings from the inlet manifold to the vacuum booster for the brake, Also booster could be defective. Do NOT drive until fixed properly-if it fails on the road you won't be able to stop from any speed. Loose manifold?

Mercedes rims,: These vehicles have the same stud pattern 5 X 114.3 Ford Falcon,Toyota Cressida, Supra, Hiace, Hilux, Rav4, Nissan Skyline, Maxima, Xtrail, Mazda 3, , Mitsubishi Magna, Hyundai

Starter tightened, power lead on, it's an unbranded one, claimed Denso(?) 11T but no engraved ID. Just a part No label. the solenoid tab leans close towards the block. I can't bend it parallel to crankshaft, so the connector shield will have to be trimmed to fit in the space. Once done, the motor is ready to crank to get oil pressure. That will be something to celebrate. So near, so far away.

Starter motor changed, but not tight, 7 tappets measured, + 1 with 0 clearance. 4 shims measured, need to change 3 so far, and swap one which is damaged. oil lines finished. Fuel tank needs sealing and filling up. when tappets completed, turbo air pipes can be fitted. heater hoses need 6 clamps, coolant req'd, then it's ready to be cranked over. Not a lot to do, but I can't rush it. Then there's a bit of bodywork, and electrics to sort.

2,3,5L diesels have a different gearbox, I would expect. Something much stronger. you might need ther whole driveline if you go diesel. If you increase power by>20% you will have to get it re-certified - upgraded brakes etc. This is beginning to sound too expensive to proceed, but it's your cash. NB If you proceed, no-one will pay a decent price when you sell. You will HAVE to own it til it stops to get value for money. Beware the rust.

Your're right, hot water does make it easier. What was I thinking? All oil lines fitted, just need a few clamps. Tappet measurements 1/2 done. Needed a support post to hold the bucket down after a snail cam lever depressed the shim. Made one from a ss fork. Shims come out easy. Most too thick atm. It's started to rain, & my knees are sore, so I've stopped a while. It'll be a month or so b4 I have all the new shims & PS pulley, but never mind-I'll get there. I can fix the tank and fit the new starter motor whilst I wait.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timing_belt/

google!

I didn't want to soften them too much, as I fear that they will distort lengthwise too much to push on, but I may try it thanks mate

Oil lines pushed half way on. I'm too weak to get them home. They will get hot enough when it's going to be soft. Don't want to heat them now. Even a drop of oil on the barbs doesn't help. 10mm hose for oil drain. It would have been easier to do with the motor out, but that was too long ago, and I didn't have the cash for the brass fittings. I'm tired and I must rest. Tomorrow-drop & repair the tank I'll ask a mate to push the hoses home.

I've installed a 2L starter in my 5L- I know it low powered, but my concern is a ratcheting noise at/near starter motor when motor turned by socket. Could be pinion not retracted?

Fan and radiator installed. 4 heater hose clamps req'd and new PS pulley. It feels good to be so close to finishing. Did grind chamfers on fan boss to lever it off with next time. It's a jam fit on the pump boss.

Borrowed puller. Bit of rust under eng pulley. Camshaft changed, fan not mounted yet. Progress is slow, but hope to have motor running in a little while.