Manxman

Presume it's built into the radio/CD unit--might, as I suggested, just be a plugin card into a slot in the radio/CD player. Would be very easy to replace unless fault was further into the system WARNING: Keep fingers out of circuits, and away from digital components, as they are EXTREMELY sensitive to static electrcity. They may not fail immediately, but they will fail if touched or too close. Let a qualified person examine it, though you can remove it from the car with care IFF you know what you're doing. Google/youtube may well offer solution.

I presume you've tested the headset in another bluetooth system to prove the headset good/bad?

I think my sister has the record--4wk old new model Turbo Diesel Pajero: Gearbox died outer rural NSW-waited 147days for part from Japan. Just wasn't available til then, they said. This was abt 1987(?). Sorta messed up their prospecting trip that year. I KNOW it's prob warranty, but surely it's not THAT hard to retrofit a suitable device? It's prob only a plug in card & need not be OEM? They know it's cheaper for you to fix than change cars.

R U sure the gear lever(s) aren't moving? [jumping out of gear?] and diff has consistent power drive through it [no missing teeth?] Sounds like clutch is critically worn and spins loose when hot. You'll have to drop the dust plate from between the sump and the bottom of the bellhousing and have a look for debris/oil leaks A bit of clutch spin should rustle/stink/smoke too. when was the last clutch installed? does a woman drive it? [they often drive foot on clutch pedal, partic in heels] check pedal adjustment? It's not difficult-there is good reason why it's happening. Whilstclutch is being replaced, renew all seals between fan and both prop shafts on driveline. They're overdue unless done at or since 250,000km. Expect some shaft wear and to use speedisleeves.

All seat mods require approval-it's a safety thing. get approval in principle from licensing first.

center brg is easy, taps/slides off, CV requires replacement parts-and some brute force-messy or whole shaft. easier to pay to have it done 20min or less to sort. universals are easy. Do NOT use a dented tailshaft-it will be weakened and perhaps fail. Glad that you found whats been done. Test brg fit in axle housing to be sure the housing hasn't worn. New brg need a rubber seal on outer side only, the inner one can be pulled off to allow oil into brg. Clean axle housing on loose side to remove any grit which may have got in. Clean all parts [except brgs] before reassembly. BTW check flexible brake hoses all round-they're getting old, and you can't afford a rupture.

Doubt there is a good dual purpose tyre - if so, it will be very popular and sold everywhere. consider wheel changes, even just 2 of them for the wet season, or you just may have to wear it. The only other thinh I can think of is ice tyres-with steel spikes through them for extra grip- but they might not be legal or chains on farm..

Check/change diff oil-it's been leaking and may have contaminants. wipe magnetic plug with tissue/toilet paper. anything solid attached to it is sign of trouble. Could have light coat of fine metalic sludge and be ok, hard particles are trouble. Water ingress is possible-grey, creamy oil-might pay to remove diff center and clean and check it. also check tailshaft center bearing and universals/CV joint. They're getting old enough to make it wise. Whilst they're off, check brakes, and if car is close to a 14yr cycle of it's age, then replace slave cylinders now too, as they'll be due about then and it will save an early repeat strip down. Cheap ones are abt $40, AFAIR.

Do both sides. Bearings & seals are cheap, [unless OEM] and a new retainer ring is essential for each side. It's best left to people who often do them, as they're quick, and have all the tools. If you take the axles to mech then he'll have it all done in 30min or less, unless other problem. Warning: Some mechs refuse to use parts they don't supply. It's both a con to make money and, supposedly, an insurance that parts are correct and suitable. Sometimes it's justifiable.

test rotor for warp by sitting it on a piece of glass pane. try and wobble it from all primary directions, both sides. run feeler gauge around edge to detect gap. any wobble or gaps indicate warp, or uneven glass. pane glass is generally flat enough for this test. rotate and if gap moves with rotation, then the rotor is warped. Check rotor for minimum thickness, AND even wear if ventilated, as a collapsed rotor ain't fun. I have only seen one so far.

bearing failure in instrument cluster. just get another used one-you'll never justify a new one, if you could find one.

What you will be told is that licensing will allow existing bolt on objects for that generation to be freely interchanged, between models, but ANY structural /safety changes need to be approved. This usually includes fitting extra mounts. A new box design should need to have some included safety features and minimum standards met, although I've no idea what such are. My ideas are that it should double as a cab protector in event of rollover, that it should retain it's contents under survivable crash conditions, and that it should not come adrift then. Any fabrications, windows, doors/locks anchorages, ventilation, fluid carriage or electrical work must meet automotive standards. If a person gets inside the unit, there MUST be an internal door release, and protection from internal protrusions and illumination?

Disaster of sorts: Unplaned heavy financial committments elsewhere have set back my earliest re-licensing to Jan 2017. If I sell up I prob won't be able to ever replace it, and I doubt anyone will pay what it's worth, even if it was going. I'm unwilling to take the loss of blood, sweat and tears I've put into it for a pittance. I'll pay out as I must, and wait until I've cleared my debts before putting any more cash into it. It's a long wait, and I hope it survives without further harm. Checking reveals cam was overground-have new one to fit--but can't move fan off pulley mount. Too tight-tried hot water, haven't got big sharp wedge/cold chisel, didn't grind on leverage access points last time. Not willing to drill between pulley and fan flange for leverage point. Ideas? Good news -I fould a single sheave crankshaft pulley from an aircond. 2L motor I can use to repair my bent power steering pulley. Cut off the ring andjoin them together. Easy. Might be a little large, but not significantly, and If I bolt it together I can avoid the problems forever more when extracting engine. There are 4 holes in both. Just need enough clearance for the boltheads to turn and similar bolthole radii. WML!

Kongrats! engine bays are hard to keep clean, but it makes diagnosis and repairs much easier. Iwhen you use water, have the engine running whilst you wash it. That way you will know where to look if it stops. Caution: pressure cleaners can force fluids through gasket faces and past O rings and seals. Be very careful using them on motors/gearboxes/electronics etc. Some degreasers are very aggressive. The safest ones appear to be the water soluable, paint on rinse off variety. they should not be left to dry out on the car.

get approval in principle from licensing before spending too much. If they won't allow it there's not much you can do. All existing commercial mods should be legal, slight mods again, like shortening a cabin, shouldn't be hard IFF you can find someone to do it. NB most cabins are around 1.8M wide, which means a lot of overhang outside the normal car cross section==very wide, sometimes awkward, mirrors. My single cab with dual cab tub only allows a 770mm wide space for the box, and an extra cab will be somewhat less than that. I feel some measuring would be of benefit. Also, does the extra cab use the front pair of the 8 rear chassis mounts? that will make it necessaru to build onto the tub for a stable base. Do not remove the barge board from the front of the tub. It's a legal requirement, if not a full roll bar by 2004?

clutch bearing?

I've fitted recycled mounts for the front of the trub to the chassis. These will need engineers certification and licensing approval. All in pipeline. The box might need approval too, so it's a 3mm checkerplate floor mounted on 50mm sq tube, 3mm thick. Fully welded both sides. I expect to form the framework so that the whole is 1600mm across, 900mm high and 750mm wide. There will be sub-frames 500mm in from each end, on 3 sides. Then I will fully weld some strong mesh into the front wall as impact load spreading, for occupant safety and damage control. the 9 rectangles of the frame will then be individually covered by prefab panels which will be pop riveted on with sealed monel rivets and mastic sealant.. The back right corner will be indented to mount the fuel filler cap above floor height and at abt 45 deg from horiz. This will ease present filling difficulties. Large, lockable, weatherproof doors and simple lighting/12V DC sockets will allow ease of use and the operation of appliances. An overhead platform covering box and cab will provide shade from the intense summer heat. I haven't decided whether to license the car with the box on or off, depending whether it's needs structural certification. I will probably submit my design to the engineer for a cursory approval, then the finished article if I can get it in close to the original quote. I will look up the regulations to see what compliance is necessary for the box, before I build it further. Ventialation and see thru glass is still being determined.

yes trentmyer is right. I have a similar setup 1/2 done for my LN147R. The best fit you will get on the tub will be by curling up on your side. If that's not viable, consider an overhead sleeping platform above the cab/box/tray. I think my pics are still up on my long posts of <end in sight>. NB I'm planning on a fully welded wire mesh behind the front wall of the box to spread impact loads from sudden stops. I curse the hard hearted cabin builders whom won't do a simple basic model of this option at any reasonable price. They always want to do a deluxe version, which makes it unviable unless I DIY it. I'd love to have a damaged cabin to shorten up, or just buy the bulkheads pre-cut/fab in steel, but they are not available, and 1.8M is too wide, I only want 1.6M max.

Anything is possible, with enough time, effort and money. I commend your thinking-mechanical systems do not meter as well as electronic ones, but fail more slowly and are repairable with less technology and in remote areas. IMO they are likely to be far more reliable, and thus safer for use in remote areas, where a dead car means personal death. Cars are a most unfriendly environment for any electronics, and failures are just a matter of time, and are totally unpredictable and likely to be instantaneous. The cost of replacements is very high, and I've heard several times of cars being towed/transported 100's of km just to get a correct diagnosis from a larger servicing center. Replacement parts age on the shelf, and become degraded by that to some degree. I'm unaware that they have production dates on them, so your 'new' EMU could easily be 5 yo or worse. Time alone will kill it, so you've paid top dollar for an unknown aged part. I think that's unfair, especially if there's no warranty. I say this because I'm a qualified microcomputer hardware technician, able to design, build, maintain and test microcomputer systems. ADEE(MT) Circa 1993 and I am acutely aware of the vulnerabilities of microprocessor electronics, and the production cost minimizations that the auto industry uses at the expense of owner convenience, operating costs, vehicle reliability and safety. All vehicles are a compromise between what its's to do, how well it does it and how much the customer will pay for it. Some customers only look at the purchase price, others look at the long term running costs too. Some want certain features, some just want basic transport. Everyone wants a bargain. They need good reason to spend more than the absolute minimum.

Was the replacement new or used? Starters are fairly simple. they need good brushes , commutators and bearings, AND a VERY clean set of battery and power connections. And a good battery for a diesel!!! test battery for at least 550CCA, discard if less. replace with 720CCA min. recent cold snap may have killed it. Check solenoid connection, make sure it has power from key on crank--switches do fail if heavy loads hung on them. Cheap wrap around oem batt terminals are rubbish. replace with brass ones that have a post and butterfly nut to quickly disconnect cables. Do NOT overtighten them, firm enough to just stop movement is enough!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

give it it'a own feed of power from the battery, via a suitable fuse. That the best way you are risking fire !!!!!!!

We won't mind a long series of how to postings. Google might find someone elses' work, and then you can colaborate. Anything is possible, with money, tools and time. Whether it's practical is another matter. I haven't found a Chev 6.0/6.5L diesel in one yet, but I suppose it's been done.

Door lock cannot be removed with door shut. There are at least 3 large screws in the jamb area. You will have to carefully remove the internal handle and lining--it may well be destroyed by this, then try and operate the levers to trip it open. Failing that a Dremmel and a lot of discs and cut it apart til it co-operates. Could be a long slow job. If they attacked the tumbler only, it will be easy, but if they've gone for the handle you have a lot to do, unless the handle broke/bent, which is likely.

Most probably if the tyre sizes are at least similar. If OEM rims, almost certainly.

Consult manual, owners or workshop. They will have the info, or, if your in the RAC/NRMA etc, they will do it for you for free. A rough guide is to measure half way up the lights, and be at a distance of a few meters from a wall. Mark the wall in front of each light at that height, and adjust lights so that high beam center is below the mark. Test at night on a dark road to fine tune it. the left light should aim slightly left to show the edge of the roads/lane on both positions. No concentrated light should rise above the marks on the wall, or you will blind oncomming traffic. Good left lights are assymetric, and put an extra flare of light up on the left. NB be aware of the difference a load makes to your lighting pattern. Be prepared to adsjust lights when loaded. Unfortunately it's too often a screw adjustment, rather than lever, but I guess they have to cheapen it somewhere. An aftermarket conversion kit sounds like a good idea?