campbeam
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Posts posted by campbeam
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I would suggest that each time you start the engine to push the brakes down hard a few times before driving. This will not only test the brakes but hopefully help to seat/expand any seals. Toyota service should have checked under the bonnet for anything amiss with hoses around brake master cylinder etc. Keep a record with details to describe circumstances when the brake pedal has misbehaved e.g. weather conditions, how far driven etc.
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1 C reading for Outside Temperature on Monday morning.
Even smoother gear changes now and no hesitation when accelerating out of a corner. Enjoying the increased responsiveness.
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Solved. Reviewed servicing information and noted that the ATF level is checked with the engine running.
Drained oil pan and added 1800ml of new ATF.
Checked fluid level and now there is a drop,pause then another drop exactly as described [with the engine running and transmission in Park].
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This URL explains the 1 minute rattle on cold start up.
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Jonathan,
Suggest you go to an Auto shop e.g. SuperCheap, AutoBarn buy a can of Throttle Body & Carburettor Cleaner and also a bottle of fuel injector cleaner. Personally, I have started to use “Fuel Doctor Fuel Conditioner” after doing some Google searches for cleaning fuel injectors/systems. Follow instructions on the bottle.
If you have enough DIY experience, preferred approach is to remove/dismantle the air intake, spray directly into the throttle body and clean/wipe with a rag. Any Mass Airflow [MAF] sensors are also cleaned/sprayed.
Quick easy way is to open the engine hood and spray the can contents gradually into the air intake while the engine is idling. When the engine “splutters” stop spraying until it resumes a smooth idling. Do this for about 5 minutes. Go for a drive.
Next day or so, repeat spraying the throttle body cleaner into the air intake for about 5 minutes.
Go for a drive.
Check engine light [CEL] can be reset by disconnecting the battery for about 10 seconds.
If the CEL re-appears, take the car to a Toyota Dealer because their scan tool will provide more accurate results.
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What is "a second handy put in"?
I would start by checking the wheel bearings. Next step would be to check and clean the brake pads and rotors. No harm in checking the tyres and removing anything caught in the tread. Also best to check the steering rack, drive shafts and cv joints for any excess movement.
Check the power steering fluid level and the condition. If dirty, you could use a hand pump to remove the fluid from the reservoir and then replace with clean fluid.
How many kilometres on the odometer? If close to 160,000km , consider having the automatic transmission filter and fluid changed.
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Attached is some very recent Google searches I have done for replacing a water pump on 2GR FE engines. Please go to the URLs for the associated photos. There is repetition for the different models in the USA. Appears that the engine can be jacked up after loosening the engine mounts to provide the room to remove the water pump. One contributor reported doing the water pump replacement in 2 hours for their vehicle. Others have reported 4-7 hours.
I did note [and action] a comment about having a serpentine belt removal tool which is quite handy for working in tight spaces.
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I learnt the hard way how to recognise when the water pump bearing is making noise and that it will fail badly and quickly. This happened at 150,000 km on my 1998 Camry. My 2006 Aurion has now done 178,000km but the service history is incomplete. Quite simply I do not know if the water pump has already been replaced or is on the pending to happen list. Anyway I just done a car forum search on how to possibly do the water pump replacement without removing the engine. Time varies between 2-7 hours so it could be a weekend job and to also replace the belt and idler pulleys etc. Because of the amount of time and effort involved, it will be worthwhile using quality replacement parts that will last 100,000 km plus rather than an unknown Made in China bargain basement item. Gates water pumps offer a 2 year/ 40,000km warranty and the $70 price is reasonable.
At this stage, my main question is what brand/s of water pump are recommended or have been used with good results by other owners?
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Based upon my experiences with a 1998 Camry, I replaced the original front brake pads at 150,000km [not heavy on the brakes], replacement cheap Made in China pads only lasted about 30,000km before being replaced with Bendix brand and front rotors also replaced. Coolant overflow bottle also replaced and the plastic top of the radiator got a crack about 185,000 km. Overall, excellent Toyota reliability.
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These URLs may be of interest
http://www.productreview.com.au/p/toyota-celica-1994-1999/m/t200-1994-1999.html
http://australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=guide&make=Toyota&model=Celica&gen=889&pno=0
Interesting that this Celica has the same engine as my 1998 Camry. Check the service history and that the timing belt has definitely been replaced and has the water pump been replaced. I had a water pump fail at about 150,000 km and this chewed up the timing belt. I think it cost about $600 including towing about 8 years ago. Recommend you factor in having to replace the timing belt and water pump if the replacement of these items is unknown.
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Best to use the Search box on this Forum. You may be able to quickly locate the answer to your question. I also do Google searches for the 2GR-FE engine and U660E transmission. In the USA and other countries, the Aurion is a V6 Camry and a similar model for the drivetrain is the Lexus R250 [?].
Hopefully, your 2006 Aurion has been regularly serviced and you have the service history. What is the odometer reading? If it is more than 160,000km , seriously consider having the transmission serviced and a new transmission filter fitted. Also check the engine for oil sludge. If present, do an oil flush or 2, regularly replace the oil filter and use quality engine oils. Personally, I do this every 5,000km with mineral based oil. My research indicates that with synthetic oil, the change interval can be extended to 10,000km. Hope this helps with your servicing plan.
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One likely source of the noise, says Toyota, is a worn No. 2 idler pulley. Replacing it with a more rugged design (Part No. 16604-0P011) and adding an extra pulley cover plate (Part No. 16649-31020) should silence the noise in short order.
Located this piece of information doing Google searches for 2GR FE engine.
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Located this item on eBay.
Perhaps this video will give you an idea of what can be involved if the kit is not a direct plug in.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1H47F2KP3Q
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The following url explains why you got such a "passionate"reply.
Before this thread I never knew about spigot hub rings and their importance. Guess I have just been lucky all these years not having to need them.
Tonight, I checked my Honda Prelude which is fitted with 16"after market wheels before being handed over this weekend for driving lessons. Perfect fit otherwise, the standard wheels would have been making a re-appearance.
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Personally, I do my own servicing so I keep a spreadsheet record of the details for all maintenance activity including date, odometer reading, details of servicing performed and $ spent. Also prepared details of planned servicing for each servicing interval for the next 2-3 years.
My main focus is change of engine oil and filters every 5,000 km and change of transmission oil and filter every 75-50,000 km or 3 years.
I check and replace the fluids in the reservoirs for the brake, power steering and coolant on a regular basis, at least annually.
When servicing, check the rubber boots on the drive shafts and steering arms for any damage. I also clean the throttle body and idle control valve whenever the air filter is checked/cleaned/replaced.
Overall, a great believer in preventative maintenance and having a reliable vehicle.
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Check your engine for oil sludge and also the PCV valve.
I did a previous reply in the following thread.
Recently bought a 2009 Aurion with the smoke on start up issue. On pickup, added a bottle of oil flush then drove home to replace oil and filter. Repeated with another bottle of oil flush in with the new oil and filter. Also cleaned the PCV valve. All good now except that I did get a check engine light which has now gone out. Personally, I change the oil at 5000 km intervals. If I was using synthetic oil, then I would consider going to 10,000 km intervals.
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Similar experience to nswotill. All ok when the oil is warmed up. A few months ago I did a change of transmission filter and oil in the pan (approx. 2.8 litres) using Chief brand synthetic ATFfrom SuperCheap. Immediately noticed difference in the gear changes which settled down. Next weekend, I checked the ATF level while transmission was cold. Also done more oil changes by draining the oil pan (750ml - 800ml). My previous main concern was the oil level may have been a bit low.
Since then, I have been doing some more research considering flaring and the torque convertor seals. Now not too concerned.
This Saturday morning will be a good cold weather test. Maybe consider adding about 100ml of ATF.
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When was the last time that you cleaned the throttle body and the idle control valve. I did not do it for about 160,000km on my 1998 Camry then one evening it very unexpectedly would not idle. All was well at 1st set of traffic lights then at the next traffic light intersection it was not idling/stalling unless I was using some accelerator. Now it is something that I do with every oil change or when I check the air filter.
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Just something to consider is to have the throttle body and idle control valve cleaned. A few years ago, my 1998 Camry was idling ok at traffic lights and then would not idle without accelerator at the next set of lights a few kilometres later. Now it is something I do every 5,000 km service on my vehicles.
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Google search for KYB Australia Catalogue revealed part numbers 339106 & 339107 for front shock absorbers.
This eBay seller posts to NZ..
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Also check the engine and transmission mounts to make sure they are are not broken or damaged. Quick check is to rev your motor and the engine should not move or very slight movement.
I have used Sikaflex to repair and reinforce the rubber engine mounts. Yet to do that on my Aurion but it is on the maintenance to do/check list.
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Blocked inline filter is the cause of transmission shudder in 2001 Honda Accords. The transmission filter can get blocked after about 80,000Kms. Only real solution is to replace the transmission filter which involved removal from the vehicle and dismantling the transmission. Another sealed for life engineering decision that did not stand the test of time in the real world. Those Honda transmissions did not have a pan you could unbolt to access the filter but it did have a dipstick.
I have replaced the transmission filter in my 2006 Aurion which had done 165,000Kms. There is one bolt which is difficult to access due to a chassis cross member and then making sure the fluid level is correct else more problems.
If you knew a reputable transmission shop that is experienced in servicing the U660E transmissions, then strongly consider getting them to replace the transmission filter.
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Cooler weather has finally arrived. A few weeks ago, I noticed that when the engine and transmission is cold and going up a hill [after stopping at a corner and turning onto the main road], the transmission was quite reluctant to shift. In comparison, I used an alternative route with a gentler incline and no obvious shift delay. This weekend I did another comparison, driving the same route. The main difference was allowing the engine to idle for a minute and the shift delay was less obvious.
I am not sure if this is normal with shifts being delayed until the engine and transmission come up to normal operating temperature. Also I do not know whether the cooling system thermostat has been changed or is still original after 187,000KM. Indicator on the Temperature gauge sits at the half way mark when the engine is warm so appears to be OK
Are other owners noticing the same transmission shift delays in colder weather?
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I have replaced the cabin air filter in my Aurion.
Air duct was full of leaves etc which I removed by hand and then used a vacum cleaner. I missed a gum nut which fell down into the fan blower.
Resultant noise did not go away so I finally worked out how to remove the blower out and get rid of that offending object.
In hindsight, should have used a cloth to block off the entrance to the blower before starting to remove the rubbish in the air duct.
Engine Carbon Clean
in Aurion / TRD Aurion Club
Posted
This topic has been on my radar for some time. I have done heaps of Google searches and watched a few worthwhile YouTube videos. Just looked a video by Eric the Car Guy where he demonstrated using a cup of water to de-carbon the engine which was at operating temperature. In his commentary, he said that short distance driving is the culprit for carbon build up and a long distance drive can be the best way to blow out the carbon from the engine. I do recall a YouTube video where various products were compared and the results were not that impressive.
As for fuel, from what I have read the Aurion engines can use 91 RON but are really tuned for 95 RON so you will get benefits with the higher octane fuel. 98 octane is considered to be not such a great economical proposition unless that is what the manufacturer recommends.
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