campbeam

Measurement from the centre wheel hub to rear wheel arch is in the range of 390mm to 410mm.

This is my recall of a conversation with King Springs in response to an email request earlier this year.

Please note that I have a 2006 Aurion ATX with standard 16" wheels and tyres. As a rough guide, I have a 3-4 finger gap between the outside of the tyre and the wheel arch when the boot is empty.

Suggest you have a look at the King Springs wbsite and the product codes KTRS-61 [lowered] and KTRS-62 [standard] for the rear springs.

 Based upon internet searches, Synthetic oil is very resistant to oil sludge. Good approach to use either synthetic or semi-synthetic oil.

Finally used up my supply of mineral based oil previously purchased on special, so now using synthetic or semi-synthetic oil with the latest specification of SN.

A few days ago, I just happened to be looking around eBay and noted the following listing for further investigation as to the correct repair kit number for the starter motor solenoid.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290913336885?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Seller's website is quite informative http://www.repairkitsuk.com/1.html especially as I would prefer to do a minor repair rather than buy a new one.

I contacted Toyota Australia a few months ago and was told No for the rear VVT-i line. However, if leaking, replacement of the oil cooler rubber hose component [located near the oil filter cartridge] is covered by an extended customer service [not a recall].

My 2006 Aurion ATX sprung a pin hole leak in the rubber hose of that rear VVT-i line a few weeks ago at 180,500 km. Massive oil leak as described. Fortunately, I had previously purchased the parts. Very frustrating job as per tutorial on this forum. Previous post on another thread mentioned $600. My vehicle had the original rubber hose and it was hardened in the curved section. 

I am guessing that if the rubber hose section had been replaced by Toyota and a sticker placed on the vehicle, then Toyota might do a replacement with the full metal line. Also I think Toyota has a 10 year timeline for extended customer service items. 

Personally, I had noticed a warning light briefly illuminate a few weeks ago. Next morning, checked the oil level and nothing on the dipstick. No obvious leak under my Aurion so topped up the oil. Drove a few kms to the girlfriend's place and noticed a massive oil leak caused by a pinhole leak in an oil line rubber hose. Immediately taken off the road and repaired.

Just demonstrates that you need to investigate and rectify the cause unless you want a massive engine repair bill.

When the oil warning light comes on, the engine has got problems and needs to be looked at and the problem fixed.

http://repairpal.com/low-oil-pressure-warning-light

Have a look at the thread titled "Kluger Low Oil Warning Indication" using the Search functionality. 

I posted this URL for consideration

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2869329&page=all

Best case scenario is that it is a faulty oil pressure switch or worst case scenario being the engine is sludged up and restricting oil flow.

Check the engine valve cover for oil sludge. If badly sludged up, consider removing the oil pan and check that the oil pickup screen is not clogged.

October 2006 ATX, 180,500 km. Purchased at 166,500 km with lots of engine sludge. Rear VVT-i line rubber hose pin hole leak recently replaced with full metal line. More frustrating job than replacing the trans filter. Just as well, I get so much enjoyment from the extra kw. Watching and waiting for the oil cooler rubber lines to spring a leak.

Based upon a lot of internet searches, oil sludge blocking the oil pickup will kill the engine. So regular oil changes with quality oils. Been told the 2GR-FE engine should be good for 400,000 km before requiring an engine rebuild. Transmission is sensitive to correct oil levels and oil type. Original transmission oil should be changed after 70,000 km when towing/hard driving or after 160,000 km for normal driving conditions. So use high quality full synthetic transmission oil and change the filter.

Lot easier and less expensive than pressing out the original insert from the engine/transmission mounts and replacing with solid polyurethane inserts which I did on my 96 Nissan Pulsar. Also ended up drilling about 4 holes in the solid polyurethane insert of the engine mount to get rid of the transmitted vibration to the chassis / drone noise in the cabin. 

Good that you have been able to source replacement mounts and not so expensive.

Ex-Toyota employee working at Wagga Wagga SuperCheap advised me that the PCV was blocked and the 2GR-FE engines are good for 4000,000 km before needing a rebuild. This valve was blocked with sludge and after cleaning, engine was still blowing smoke on start up. I used a plastic straw to probe around the oil filler and PCV area and squeezed a lot of sludge out of this straw on multiple occasions. 

I was using 15W-40 mineral oil and initially added 250ml of diesel. Highway cruising @ 100-110 km for 1,250 km. I expected the diesel to evaporate; oil temp gets up to 200c and after 600 km topped up with another 250ml of diesel. No impact upon engine vitals, still using 6+litres of engine oil for lubrication and diesel is essentially a very light oil.

Went through about 6 oil and filter changes in total. The fully dissolved oil sludge badly contaminates the oil so it was coming out quite black. Also there were "coffee grain"like residues being undissolved oil sludge. After the first few oil and filter changes, I started to drop the oil after a few weeks of suburban driving [500km] , refill the engine leaving these "coffee grounds"in the oil change pan then top up. Eventually changed to using ATF Dextron III instead of diesel.  

In hindsight, I would now recommend removing the front valve cover and giving it a thorough clean. Remove oil filter cartridge and wash/rinse in petrol. Drop engine oil to remove any "coffee grounds" then add 500ml of diesel or ATF to the engine oil. Drive for about 250 km. Drop engine oil and replace with 5 litres of diesel, then let engine idle for 5-10 minutes. Let engine cool before doing new oil and filter change including 500ml of ATF. 

Internet searches cautioned about engine sludge blocking the oil pickup screen so that is why I used this approach rather than commercial engine flushes which are solvent based. 

I have repaired and reinforced the rubber engine mounts using polyurethane sealant/adhesive. If you are doing multi[;e engine mounts, then using a cartridge is more economical, otherwise use the 150ml tubes.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-X-BOSTIK-POLYURETHANE-SEALANT-ADHESIVE-CARTRIDGE-310ML-LIKE-SIKAFLEX-SEALER-/301785265424?hash=item4643cdb510:g:3H4AAOxycmBS3bdZ

Ist step is to remove and inspect the engine mount for wear/damage. In one case, I used superglue to glue the broken centre into the correct position before using the Sikaflex or Bostik sealant. I prepare cardboard templates with the centre hole cut out for both sides of the engine mount. Then cover the templates with plastic/gaffa tape. Put a template on one side of the mount and then sqeeze in the sealant. Other template is used to push in the sealant so the engine mount is totally filled. Rather than wait 24 hours or longer for the sealant to fully cure, I put the engine mounts [with cardboard templates still attached] into the oven overnight on low heat 80-100c. In the morning, remove from oven and let cool. Templates should be able to be removed and even reused, if required. 

Even if you buy new mounts, this is something you can do to reinforce mount for longer life.

16 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

Put it on Gumtree or similar and price it accordingly.

Wreckers will give you scrap metal value.

Parting out is difficult unless you do it yourself.

As you have said, it has to go. You know the wreckers offer which is probably $300 so that is your worst case scenario/bottom line.

My suggestion would be to sell it privately and price it attractively e.g. $1,000 negotiable, $800/$750 whatever is realistic to attract someone to buy it as a project fixit upper. For sentimentality reasons, better to sell it cheap to someone who is going to fix and use rather than send it to the wreckers.

Either way, you have to be hard headed and get the vehicle gone then have a good cry in your beer/wine etc.

After it is gone, I am sure you will put the extra garage space to good use.

I bought the Aurion knowing that it blew smoke on start up. Initially, I started by warming the engine up and draining oil then filled engine with 5 litres of diesel. Idled engine for about 5-10 minutes, drained diesel then new oil and filter. At the time I thought that I had cleaned the engine. To cut a long saga short, I did some internet searches at the library and "discovered a forum post" which identified the cause and extent of the oil sludge issue. On the return trip from Wagga Wagga to Brisbane [1300km], I added 500ml of diesel to the engine oil. Back home, I did a oil and filter change. Repeated this desludging process of adding diesel to the engine oil. After more internet searches started adding 500ml of ATF [Dextron iii] instead of the diesel [cleaning agents/additives in ATF] to gently desludge the engine. Lots of low km oil changes and filter changes. No obvious sludge around the oil cap area of the valve cover.

Just done another oil and filter change ready for the round trip to Wagga and back next week. I fully expect that this should get rid of the final remnants of the oil sludge and the engine will be totally clean for the next oil and filter change when back home.

On 10/3/2016 at 8:06 AM, trentmeyer23 said:

Ultra Racing are known to be reputable.

Dollar for dollar, upgrading a swaybar is the best handling mod you can do.

Fitting an Ultra Racing Front strut brace made a noticeable handling improvement in my 1998 Camry and that was after upgrading the front and rear struts and heavy duty springs. The Aurion already has some front strut bracing so not high on the list at the moment.

Looks like I will now have to consider upgrading the rear sway bar to reduce body roll especially if the original is a hollow tube. 

Engine oil sludge is a known issue in the 2GR-FE and previous Camry V6 engine. Service history for my 2006 Aurion [Company Rep car] reveals that it may have been serviced by a Ford dealership warranty plan so I am guessing long service intervals and poor quality oils. Oil sludge issue at 166,000 kms which is probably why it was traded in and sold to the wholesaler from whom I bought the Aurion. After 14,000 km and about 6 oil and filter changes, engine is a lot cleaner but still has sludge in the rear valve train area.

A few months ago, I purchased a December 2008 Build Aurion with oil sludge problem and that was definitely owner neglect. It was a family vehicle with 106,000 km mainly used by the wife for short distance driving. Another ongoing project to clean up that engine.

My 1998 Camry had regular oil and filter changes at 5,000 km. Also flushed the engine with 5 litres of diesel when doing the oil change. 

Recent modern engines are requiring the higher specification oils and oil changes must be performed at the specified time or distance intervals. Full synthetic or semi-synthetic oils are essential for the longer service intervals e.g. 10,000 km. 

Apologies for my document naming. It is referring to the SN/GF5 specification. Interesting reading about the base oils and additive packages that different brands can use to achieve their specification rating. Also helps to understand why some brands can have better test results. It is quite relevant for longer oil change intervals but I think less so if you are changing oil regularly at 5,000 km intervals or up to 10,000 km for a full synthetic oil.

Personally, I have spent the last 12 months de-sludging the 2GR-FE engine in my Aurion so it is changed more regularly due to contamination from the dissolving of the oil sludge.   

Engine Oil URLs and GR4 GR5 Performance Comparison.doc

I attached this document in the thread titled "2016 Aurion Touring oil (new environment) " plus a number of URLs about engine oil selections and specifications etc. 

Personally, I use 10W-40 and 10W-30 with the higher GR5 specification.  

jack,

Welcome.

 Have a look at this posting that is in the Latest Post. 

Search on eBay.com.au Maybe this is what you are seeking.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Logo-Battery-Tool-Toyota-Key-Shell-Celica-Camry-Rav4-Corolla-Prado-Echo-Tarago-/282094905903?hash=item41ae2aaa2f:g:s9oAAOSwbYZXgDYE

I know that my fuel consumption on the open highway is dependent upon the number of overtakings between fuel stops.

With few overtakings at 100kph, I also achieved around 7.6L/100kms in my 2006 Aurion which was on the Newell Highway [flat country, not hilly]. 

Also adjusting driving style to better use the overtaking lanes and timing to overtake to minimise harder acceleration pays off in the fuel consumption. 

Many years ago, I took a very critical look at my driving style. A few close calls because I was too aggressive using the accelerator getting into trouble situations and a couple of consecutive accidents not my fault [according to this post]. I now drive more defensively and can be considered a member of the öld farts brigade". I think I drive with about twice the braking distance of most other drivers. Much more relaxing on the nerves and blood pressure.

My focus is upon having to use the brakes as little as possible by using what I refer to as roadcraft; anticipate the flow of traffic and adjust speed so I do not have to come to a complete halt very often.

Also identify idiot drivers by their impatient unsafe manouvres in traffic and mentally prepared to take evasive actions if they come to grief with a vehicle ahead of me.

Perhaps my main self-test is to be able to brake gently and be able to stop 1 car length from the vehicle in front at ALL times.

Recently, I got caught out when the driver in front did the unexpected [stopped instead of continuing to merge onto the main road] so had to hit the brakes hard to avoid a collision. 

Overall, drive defensively with lots of anticipation because you are the loser if/when your vehicle gets smashed. 

"it’s an unmitigated disaster to put a lower-octane fuel in an engine than the one recommended by the manufacturer. This can lead to severe engine damage. The early detonation of the fuel can raise the temperature inside the combustion chamber to levels that the metal parts inside the engine can’t withstand, and unacceptable stresses are also placed on internal components." 

The above was an extract from the following URL http://www.caradvice.com.au/93272/what-fuel-should-i-use-in-my-car/ 

Suggest read this URL https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating 

The following may be the answer to your question : "be sure to check your vehicle owner’s manual. Ordinarily, a vehicle will not benefit from using an octane higher than recommended in the owner’s manual. However, some car models have high-compression engines and electronic controls, which are designed to benefit from the greater power output and improved fuel economy of high octane fuel. Since octane requirements can vary with operating and environmental conditions, your vehicle may need a higher octane fuel than recommended to prevent knocking." https://www.exxon.com/en/octane-rating

As for the explanation of the different specifications between the models, I am guessing that this is due to the different programming in the Engine Management System for each model.

In my Aurion [done 180,000Km], I usually use 91 but I am currently using Shell V Power 98 to hopefully/as claimed clean the intake valves and fuel system. Initially, more of a placebo effect, going faster because I was using the accelerator more and then having to brake harder. Probably say there appears to be a bit of an improvement in smooth acceleration. 

Anyway as per the Toyota specifications only 1-2 KW difference and a few Nm between the models and 91 vs 95 minimum RON.

I would have expected that T10 is the correct size for side parking and number plate lights. T20 is for rear tail lights and brake lights.

I have bought various LED bulbs on eBay [from different China sellers] and usually have to spread the contact wires to get a good contact. 

Alternatively, take the old globe with you and go to your local auto store.

Previously looked at the fuel figures on RedBook for your vehicle and related comments on other forums. 11/100 kms appears to be acceptable for urban/city driving. Highway driving fuel economy should be better unless you are lead footing it. Suggest using some fuel injector cleaner and doing a day trip or a long distance drive to de-carbon the engine. 

Something else to consider is that the previous owner has most likely only been driving short distances which can contribute greatly to the formation of engine sludge and carbon build up in the engine cylinders.

I check for engine sludge using a large plastic straw. Remove the oil cap and use the straw to scrape around inside the oil tappett cover. You may be surprised about how much sludge is caught in the straw. If applicable, squeeze out the straw onto a paper towel and repeat a few times. 

I use RedBook as a Used Car Guide. Quite handy for listing specifications and comparing models.

Did a Google search with the search terms  of Toyota Corolla 2013 Red Book to obtain the following URL

http://www.redbook.com.au/cars/research/used/details/2013-toyota-corolla-ascent-manual/SPOT-ITM-382807

You can then select other models in the range.

Interesting tale so before responding, did a Google search for the following URL

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system7.htm

This explains why I found it hard to accept. I would expect any excess pressure to have vented through the overflow bottle. Even with a faulty radiator cap, there are plenty of connections and hoses in the cooling system which could have failed before the radiator. A compression check of the cylinders should have been able to detect any loss of pressure into the coolant system. Also with the radiator cap off, you would be able to see bubbling in the coolant.