campbeam
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Posts posted by campbeam
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5 hours ago, nushydude said:
Is the Nulon Long Life 5w30 6 litre can sufficient for a complete fill? If I am replacing the oil filter (which I am), I would need 6.1 litres. Of course I should buy extra to keep in handy for loss of oil with engine usage. What would you do in my case?
Buy 2 now. Usually more expensive to buy 1 litre containers.
5 hours ago, nushydude said:When you replace brake fluid, how much brake fluid do you need for a complete fill?
It can be done with 1 bottle but I usually end up using some of the 2nd bottle.
5 hours ago, nushydude said:The link you gave for the filter, is it the full filter? Why does it say "Set Fit" For Toyota Genuine OEM Oil Petrol Filter 04152-YZZA1
It is for the oil filter. The Aurion uses an oil housing with the filter cartridge inside instead of the spin-on oil filter used by older vehicles.
6 hours ago, nushydude said:They should have replaced the spark plugs at that service as well. It is always better to have few handy? Pretty expensive, aren't they?
You will have to confirm whether the spark plugs were replaced at the 90,000km service when you bought the vehicle. Long life Denso brand iridium plugs can have a life of about 190,000 km. 100,000km is the recommended service interval.
6 hours ago, nushydude said:Does the air filter you linked fit model 2007 as well? It says specifically it is for 2006 model.
Yes. It says TOYOTA AURION - GSV40R Petrol V6 3.5L 2GR-FE .
October 2006 is when the Aurion GSV40R model series was first sold.
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I recall that in a previous post, you mentioned about saving for a house deposit. Therefore, focus upon what items you are going to need for the next service or short term.
I have just bought Nulon brand DOT3 brake fluid on a multi-buy special at Supercheap.
Last purchases of full synthetic engine oil [10W-30 or 10W-40] have been from SuperCheap and AutoBarn. One special was 45% saving and a limit of 2 per customer.
Check any maintenance records for when your coolant was last changed.
I use eBay for other parts that can be easily posted.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191782344170?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131689111676?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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6 hours ago, nushydude said:
I don't think the engine was harmed.
Your engine should be fine because it still had enough oil to be pressured out of the pinhole in the rubber hose and drip onto your garage floor. Different story if your engine was starved of oil.
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2 hours ago, nushydude said:
They charged me $680 for the whole thing. I got the front oil cooler hose replaced with the metal pipe as well. A large portion of it is for the labour. Sadly, the replacement VVT-I hose still has a rubber mid section, albeit the improved version. They said that's all they have.
$680 - you must have been charged at desperation rates.
Suggest that you go back and read thoroughly all of the posts to your thread and the attachment below that I previously posted. Did you specifically request the front oil cooler hoses to be replaced [at your expense]. Otherwise, if it is leaking then it is covered by Toyota Australia at least up to 10 years after the build date.
Estimated time to replace the rubber hose mid-section of the VVT-i line is approx. 1.5 hours. Angled long nose pliers are utilised to remove the spring clips on the hose. However, it is so much easier to fully remove the line then replace the rubber hose but it is more time consuming.
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On 24/1/2017 at 10:27 AM, Arian10Daddy said:
The issue I see with an over-reading is the angry pricks hoking and showing fingers when I'm travelling at 100kmph on a highway as per my speedo. Road rage alert! :D
Drive to stay alive and keep your license. If anyone is going faster than me, I am quite happy to get out of their way so they can collect a speeding ticket. Girlfriend is a cautious driver on roads she is not familiar with. She got a bit of road rage and was eventually overtaken. Further down the road, she passed them with their vehicle in a ditch. She said "Happy motoring" to them. Karma.
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I have been following this thread as it was something that I previously noted for reference purposes.
Can I make a suggestion that you consider doing a before and after test of braking distance at 60kph.
I would be expecting a difference of 10-15% after the new rotors and pads have bedded in.
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2 hours ago, nushydude said:
Was there any recall notice here?
I bought the car last year from a Toyota Dealership. Shouldn't they have done something before I bought the car?
No recall for either the VVT-i oil line or the oil cooler hose.
Best to check your paperwork for any extended warranty from the purchase with the Toyota Dealership.
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1 hour ago, 07Prodigy said:
Ok sweet thanks for that.
I have just looked at my car and they are rubber, but it has the "AHG56B2" campaign sticker. So I ran toyota and asked, and according to a Toyota dealership in Nerang, they don't always replace them with an all metal pipe. Apparently it's whatever Toyota has is stock that they use. So I have two rubber hoses going to/from the oil cooler.
The hose that is leaking is coming from near the power steering pump, which going on that diagram is for the VVTi, and I'm guessing this could be why it's always making the clanging noise when I first start it, because oil is leaking out while the car is sitting.
You are fortunate having that campaign sticker. In your case, you should be covered by Toyota as it was previous repair. Attached pdf relates to USA dealerships. Clanging noise on startup should hopefully be corrected when the VVT-i line is replaced. If not, then there is a pin in the VVT-i that needs to be checked.
1 hour ago, 07Prodigy said:Ok so is this a 40 series issue?
i was thinking of buying a 50 series, but if I'm going to have all these issues I'll just get a Tesla.
50 series definitely have the full metal VVt-i line. 2012 and later builds should have the full metal oil cooler hoses.
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On 23/1/2017 at 4:00 PM, Full-Throttle said:
My VVTi line blew in a similar fashion, and then a month later the front oil cooler hoses blew too.
I previously read this post by Full Throttle then did a bit of research. I replaced my VVT-i line in early October just before a scheduled interstate trip.
For emergency purposes for the front oil cooler hoses, I bought Silicone Rescue Tape from Jaycar.
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15 hours ago, krigeroz said:
I got the brake cleaner as well, but have not used it yet, as at first I expected the sensor to be all black and when I took it out, to my surprise it was very clean.
I can try to spray in those tiny holes and wash it with water.
7 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:Keep water away. Brake clean only.
Best to spray clean it a few times. Maybe best to give it a thorough spray and leave it a few hours or overnight to give the solvents a good chance to work on any accumulated deposits.
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1 hour ago, 07Prodigy said:
But isn't there two oil lines plus the vvti line
There are two VVT-i oil lines; front bank and rear bank. Front bank VVT-i oil line is full metal which is what you would expect as it is so close to the exhaust manifold.
The rear bank VVT-i oil line had the rubber hose section which was eventually replaced by the full metal line in later production.
The oil cooler hose has 2 lines/hoses connecting into and out of the oil pump and the engine. Attached document has a parts diagram and photos to better explain/understand these different parts.
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12 hours ago, nushydude said:
$520 is for the part, engine oil and labour. Not just the part. I think most of it is labour. But sure, it isn't cheap!
To give you a good understanding of what is involved have a look at the tutorial posted by DJKOR. As he states at the very beginning:
Difficulty: Frustrating
Swear Factor: Extremely high
Notes: I would advise to NOT do this yourself unless you have small hands and A LOT of patience. Working with the 2GR in the Aurion engine bay is not the most pleasant experience.
Totally endorse his "warnings". I did my replacement a few months ago so I am a bit over the "anger management experience". Just as well I love having the extra KWs for overtaking on the highways.
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6 hours ago, nushydude said:
there was a reasonably large spill after I parked the car. They had to start the car for a few seconds to load it up to the truck though.
Your engine should be OK.
1 hour ago, nushydude said:Told me it will cost me $520,
This quote should be for the full metal line. Extra time involved removing the belt driven steering pump to access the lower bolt on the VVT-i line.
US Highlander model has the 2GR-FE engine but with electric steering. This explains why people on Toyota Nation forum were able to do the replacement in <2 hours.
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Based upon my recent experience, it sounds more like being the VVT-i line. My hose only had a pinhole and output lots of oil while the engine was idling on the driveway . Apparently, if it is the oil cooler hose, you lose most of the oil onto the road very quickly. The only indication that the engine has lost so much oil is if the oil pressure warning light displays. In my case, this warning light just flickered on briefly then went away.
Toyota Australia will definitely cover the oil cooler hose. When I asked about the VVT-i oil line, I was told not covered by extended customer service.
Expect to pay about $500-$600 to have the oil line replaced with the full metal line. I had previously bought the parts and spent a frustrating weekend doing this repair.
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7 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:
You can get them cheaper. But don't throw parts at it to find the problem.
Disconnect and remove the sensors, then give the ends that go into the pipe a clean with brake cleaner.
Usually you won't have an oxygen sensor fault without a check engine light being thrown. If they are dirty they should clean ok.
There are three total, one in each header and one downstream of the catalytic converters.
Ensure that you do not spray brake cleaner on the wires as it will reduce the life of the wiring insulation, spray the metal end only.
Agree, throwing parts at a problem before diagnosing/knowing the underlying cause is like casting your money into a wishing well.
Not exactly happy after replacing an oxygen sensor on another vehicle [$80?] and the Check Engine Light stayed on. Just to reinforce the lesson, the CEL went out afew weeks later and re-installing the old sensor had no impact.
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With this thread in mind, I have purchased DOT3 brake fluid for my Aurion. Supercheap had a multibuy special for Nulon brand so got 2 bottles.
Also gone ahead and purchased a vacuum pressure bleeder on eBay so hopefully it will arrive in time for next weekend.
In the meantime, does anyone know the correct bleeding sequence for the Aurion ATX.
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Check of eBay and Gumtree Brisbane Region will give you an idea of prices.
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/browns-plains/auto-body-parts/sx6-toyota-aurion-part-out-/1134202899
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/chermside/wrecking/2007-toyota-aurion-sportivo-for-parts/1116717680
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14 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:
I think it should sell ok, but I have concerns that the market may be too close to that of the RAV4.
Yes, time will tell. Expect that the eye-catching stand out design of the C-HR will drive the initial sales. More compact size and smaller engine than RAV4 with a sufficient price differential will have SUV buyers comparing which SUV better meets their needs. I have in mind the size comparison between Yaris and Corolla.
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13 minutes ago, trentmeyer23 said:
I would say their market is for young people who live in the city and want a small soft-roader type of vehicle, but care about looks and economy; and not about performance.
Agree that that appears to be the target market,
26 minutes ago, trentmeyer23 said:150kW would be a lot to ask of a 1.2L engine and stay reliable for a long period.
I was more thinking of the future direction of engine design with the availability of small capacity [i.e. <2.0L] highly efficient 4 cylinder petrol engines fitted with direct injection, twin-turbochargers, supercharger, or both outputting 150KW with long term reliability, Somewhat along the lines of the Ford Ecoboost series of engines or perhaps another engine design.
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Body looks Sporty, youthful, eye catching. Unfortunately [in my opinion] for me, it ends there.
I was expecting performance specs to somewhat match the looks.
Looks more like being a Geriatric Sheep in wolfs clothing. Toyota website for the C-HR has a heading of Spirited Performance. Seriously, 85KW and 1590 Kgs. Another case of marketing spin doctoring and I am not buying.
Probably doesn't help that I was just thinking last night about 4 cylinder engines pushing towards 150KW and 6 cylinder engines towards 250KW in mainstream vehicles by 2020.
http://www.carsguide.com.au/car-reviews/toyota-c-hr-2017-review-first-drive-47442
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10 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:
research on the 2GR
I have learnt hard lessons from my younger days having to re-ring engine [stupidity] and re-do front wheel bearings [ignorance].
I am always researching the 2GR engine and U660E transmission. I don't think that you will have to be concerned about the VVT-i oil line but when it goes, it is a frustrating time putting in the full metal line. Just remember that the more enthusiastic you are in your driving style, then the more maintenance you will need to do.
Latest internet find on the 2GR engine attached.
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42 minutes ago, trentmeyer23 said:
The only thing that matters is real world performance and economy.
You could run an few tanks through to get a more accurate result.
Agree, real world results vs theoretical expectations. Certainly questioning the accuracy of the first result; too many variables/factors.
Most likely going back to unleaded 91.
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3 hours ago, ZZT86 said:
loose much economy using E10
Theoretically, I should have expected to lose about 3-4% economy not 20%.
Even taking into account increased usage of the air-conditioner, I would not have expected such a difference. Maybe other members have experienced the same or not at all.
Anyway, now quite suspicious of the amount of aeration in the E10 fuel from the bowser pump when refilling the tank.
https://www.allianz.com.au/car-insurance/news/ethanol-versus-petrol-faq
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54 minutes ago, ZZT86 said:
The downside of E is that it generates less energy per given volume thus using more of it - around 25-30% more which is the reason why the OP has worse economy. Ethanol is also a great solvent keeping your engine clean.
Confirms what I was thinking about economy. More a case of considering the other benefits of using an ethanol-petrol mix i.e. clean engine carbon deposits.
Autobarn sale. What to buy for the next service?
in Aurion / TRD Aurion Club
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Only way to inspect the spark plug is to remove it. Hard to tell how old a plug, more a case of how worn it appears. As for the coolant, you can use Ph test strips to check Ph is alkaline 7.5 to 11 range.
Probably brake dust. I occassionally hose my wheels to wash away the brake dust. Good idea to remove a front wheel and check for how worn the brake pads are. Repeat for rear wheels. Expect the front brake pads to be more worn than the rear brake pads.