campbeam
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Posts posted by campbeam
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There are oil channels in the valve cover. When there is oil sludge accumulation in these channels, the oil does not drain as quickly and the oil can get sucked up via the PCV valve into the intake manifold. If this happens when you are accelerating hard, there will be a lingering smoke screen visible in your rear view mirror. If it is happening overnight, similar result with vacum pressure sucking oil into the intake manifold.
PCV valve can get contaminated with oil sludge so it does not rattle/function correctly. This is why it needs to be cleaned thoroughly and/or replaced.
I did a recent reply to the following thread with a URL about the PCV valve.
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If the 2GR-FE engine is blowing smoke either when accelerating hard or upon initial start up, oil sludge in the valve cover and the PCV valve are the most likely contributing factors. I learnt the hard way to thoroughly clean the PCV valve not just once but again at the next oil change/s when the engine is still smoking.
You can check for the amount of sludge in the valve cover by probing with a large plastic straw and also by removing and cleaning the various oil control valves and sensors. If you have lots of thick sludge, then best to remove the front valve cover [which has the PCV valve] and give it a thorough clean to desludge/clean the oil channels. Something else to consider is to remove the engine oil pan for a thorough clean and to check that the oil pickup is clean/not blocked by oil sludge.
Beside regular oil and filter changes every 5,000 km , I have periodically removed and cleaned the oil filter cartridge using either petrol or diesel to check the amount of sludge that is being collected. I have also flushed the engine using diesel [a few times]; idling engine for 10 minutes then putting in the new oil filter cartridge and oil.
Hopefully, your engine is not so badly sludged up as what mine was.
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Interested to know what coolant system maintenance checks other forum members are doing.
I regularly check the coolant level and replace the coolant in the overflow bottle about every 6 months. I have bought ph test strips on eBay but have not used them on a regular basis.
Very interested in having the coolant system as efficient as possible particularly with the hot Summer days coming.
After reading the articles in the attached URLs, I am confident that the coolant is in good condition but planning to do a ph test soon.
https://practicalmotoring.com.au/car-advice/what-is-coolant-antifreeze-and-why-does-you-car-need-it/
https://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/antifreeze
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Time to get the air conditioning system checked and re-gassed. If your car has a cabin filter, check that first. MIne was full of leaves etc so that was certainly obstructing the air flow.
In March 2016, I found a mobile service via Gumtree with good customer reviews. Not disappointed, turned up on time, checked system for leaks etc before re-gassing system. Explained that I should have the ventilation on re-cycle for better efficiency; system not trying to cool the outside air coming in.
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I got these programming instructions either from eBay seller or an internet search some time ago.
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3 hours ago, madmechanic said:
I ask a service technician how often they change the oil & what type of oil they used as I can see you may need some special tool to do a change & they told me that its a life oil and they have never changed it before & that this auto oil was something they didnt have in stock. i was shocked!. My transmission guy informs me it should be change every 60,000km.
Terry,
Believe that life oil "rubbish" and you will be in line for some expensive transmission repairs/replacement. I have been doing internet searches on this topic [sealed Toyota transmission and servicing] over the past 12 months. Consumers think Life means forever. Life for a car manufacturer can be considered as 10 years or 160,000 kms. That applies for normal driving conditions. However, if you are towing etc, automatic transmission fluid should be changed at 70,000 km. This should be in your owners manual. High temperature is what will shorten the life of the transmission oil. Best to have an additional oil cooler fitted especially if towing or off-roading.
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Girlfriend has the 2006/7 Yaris 2 door hatchback YRS automatic model with 1500cc engine. Excellent city runabout with plenty of power and performance for a small vehicle. Must be the power to weight ratio. To my k nowledge, no problems since bought new.
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I am very much a believer in preventative maintenance. Therefore, I would be keen to do a complete oil change of the engine, transmission and differential. Used oils can become acidic. Engine oil sludge can be an issue for low mileage vehicles. It should be less of an issue in pre 1990's vehicle with fewer vehicle emmission controls but always best to check. Easy way to check is to remove oil filler cap. Not expecting this, but if there appears to be lots of oil sludge, I would then also remove the valve cover/s and the oil pan for a thorough clean and to check that the oil pickup screen.
Personally, I would drop the engine oil and then put in about 5 litres of diesel. Idle the engine for 5-10 minutes. If necessary, repeat before new filter and engine oil. I have been doing this procedure for many years.
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My experiences and learnings are based upon doing 7 oil and filter changes in the past 12 months and 11,000 kms which included 5,000 kms for 2 interstate trips to get rid of oil sludge in the engine.
What causes the smoking on acceleration or initial start up of the engine is accumulated oil sludge in the oil drain channels in the valve cover. The oil cannot drain quickly enough and is sucked up by the vacum into the inlet manifold. In my case, 12 months ago, the engine was still full of sludge and the PCV valve was blocked [presumably open] thus drawing about 1-2 litres of oil in a short days driving from Narrabri to West Wyalong on the Newell Highway. Shortly afterwards, I did clean the PCV valve so it rattled but the engine still smoked on start up. Thus began the saga of multiple oil changes [without removing and de-greasing/cleaning the valve covers].
In hindsight, I should have cleaned the PCV valve much more thoroughly and checked/cleaned it at subsequent oil and filter changes. I should have most certainly done this before the most recent interstate trip a few weeks ago when I do hard accelaration for overtaking.
A few internet postings by mechanics indicate owners have spent $,000's on repairs which could have been avoided by replacing the PCV valve. In my case, I think I would have been able to reduce the number of oil and filter changes.
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Member Full-Throttle has a very worthwhile thread with lots of modifications and photos.
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Latest experience and learning is to regularly check/clean/replace the PCV valve.
If the PCV valve is not functioning correctly, this will contribute to oil sludge. Refer attached URL
Previously cleaned the PCV valve about 12 months ago and have just given it a more thorough clean. After removing the PCV valve, I sprayed degreaser into it and then shaked it. Repeated this process 3 times and then finally used silicone lubricant spray. End result being that it rattled a lot more easily and louder.
Also ordered new PCV valves from Amayama.
PCV Valve Part Number [sourced from Toyota Nation posting]: Valve: 12204-31040/12204-31120
https://www.autorepairhelp.us/pcv-valve-related-symptoms-and-problems/
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Always use good quality, high specification oils. I am now using semi-synthetic and synthetic oils in all of my vehicles..
You should find the following URLs of interest.
http://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/
I have the following items on my regular maintenance list:
1. Clean air filter, throttle body and idle control valve
2. Check/Clean EGR valve
3. Clean PCV valve
4. Replace power steering fluid in the reservoir
5. Check/Clean coolant overflow bottle and replace coolant
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Mutual benefit from sharing and performing additional research before submitting a reply to a post.
Can highly recommend this previous URL https://www.autorepairhelp.us/pcv-valve-related-symptoms-and-problems/ especially if your vehicle has engine sludge.
Quite likely that the PCV valve was contributing to the high level of oil sludge bulld up as well as my short distance driving.
Recleaned the PCV valve on my 2006 Aurion with 183,000 kms and also ordered new PCV valve.
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As you have some oil burn in the exhaust, it might be a good idea to also check/replace the PCV valve.
My PCV valve was blocked closed with oil residue/sludge and needed a good clean.
After last interstate trip, I am beginning to suspect that it is stuck open and should be replaced.
https://www.autorepairhelp.us/pcv-valve-related-symptoms-and-problems/
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A few months ago I bought Continental ContiComfortContact 5 on a 4 for 3 deal at Bob Jane for my 2009 Aurion. From memory, they were $129 ea plus wheel alignment of $66 so within my preferred $500 budget..
I wanted a quality brand touring/all rounder tyre that would be safe in wet driving conditions,long wearing,.low rolling resistance and quiet.
Certainly not disappointed with purchasing these new tyres but have not done enough kms for an informed recommendation.
Interesting but I have not found the Aurion to be sluggish getting around corners. I prefer to drive slower into a corner then accelerate mid way through the corner so the front wheel drive is pulling the vehicle and exiting faster. Also a defensive look for safety sake before accelerating.
Having said that, I was also öutclassed"by a scooter going through a roundabout. Needed my lane to be 2-3 times wider to be able to drive in a straight line like that scooter and still be within the lane. Anyway, driving up Cunninghams Gap was easily done at the 70kph speed limit.
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Yes, I have had similar problems but with Bendix Catalogue for front pads to fit 1995 Honda Prelude VTI-r. Even sent them an email advising them of the issue and correction required. Probably went into their Spam folder.
There is a Bendix Technical Bulletin advising the correct front brake pads for the Camry/Aurion
https://www.bendix.com.au/news/comparing-db1474-db2243-toyota-camry-aurion-v40
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5 hours ago, Sebastian Voina said:
Thanks, Ashley. So in 13 years Toyota still didn't bother to do a recall for the 00-03 models in regards with the ECM :(
Based upon those previously posted URLs, there was no recall, only warranty claims for this transmission problem with these RAV4 models.
Fortunate for you that the ECM has been replaced on your vehicle.
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Looks like you are as price sensitive as myself. Sakura oil filters @ $5.65 @ Sparespro.com.au
Orders over $100 are free delivery. I have used this seller and had no problems with the Sakura oil filters.
http://www.sparespro.com.au/oil-filter-1150106001-z418-z87a-z422
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You are on the right track using a Full Synthetic oil and using 5W-40. As per the Penrite Lubrication Guide, you could consider using Full Synthetic 10W-40.
http://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/
I have found this URL to be a good guide for Understanding Engine Oils.
https://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs_new/Nov2015/Engine_Oils.pdf
For preventative maintenance purposes, I have been using XADO in the engines and transmissions of my vehicles for quite a few years. If you can "accept" the marketing blurb, it can rebuild worn [not broken] parts back to specification. Suggest you do your own Google and YouTube searches and consider whether you want to part with your money. It is available on eBay and I have previously used sellers in the Ukraine.
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Ryco reference number is Z418; Z418ST for a longer life filter.
If you are wanting a higher capacity filter, I would check the specifications/dimensions for Z418 and then search the Ryco Catalogue based upon the filter's thread 3/4-16-UNF-2B
http://www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue/dimension
Best to make a list of likely possibilities, then visit SuperCheap or AutoBarn etc for a visual filter and price check.
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The following URLs may be of some assistance.
http://australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=recalls&make=Toyota&model=RAV4&gen=916
http://kaushalye.blogspot.com.au/2010/11/toyota-rav4-transmission-issue-how-to.html
http://www.toyotaproblems.com/trends/rav4-transmission/
I cannot confirm but would fully expect that the E CU would be different for the 2.4 litre engine. Google searches only indicate the known problem with the 2000-2003 model, There is an occassional reference to ECU problems in later models but cause appears to be a bad battery not providing sufficient electrical power.
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Attachment is worthwhile reading about the exhaust system flow and exhaust tips to "tune".
There have been a few posts in the Aurion Forum about muffler delete/replacement with straight through pipe, resonator or change to a shorter muffler.
Best to avoid having that droning, annoying noise in the cabin from the exhaust.
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Have a read of the posts in the following URL
http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2203831
As per the owner's handbook, the Aurion has a 70 litre tank and the fuel warning light displays when there is 15 litres remaining.
Looks like the range calculator was forecasting 66km on 6.44 litres which is excluding the 15 litre "reserve" [ (70 - 48.56 = 21.44) - 15 = 6.44].
Presumably this forecast was based upon the most recent fuel economy sample rather than an overall average of distance travelled and fuel used.
Please note the fuel pump is "cooled" by the fuel so best to refuel before "Empty".
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As you previously indicated, I would be inclined to inspect the exhaust mounts.
Personally, not a great fan of low hanging exhaust systems, think they are a likely candidate to get damaged or ripped off especially on speedbumps and if travelling on highways with rough surfaces. Always remember my Camry's rear bottoming out with a big bang near Oakey and no obvious dip or pothole to explain it.
Statutory Warranty Question - Defective vehicle
in Aurion / TRD Aurion Club
Posted
My advice would be to assume the worst and act/plan accordingly. Assuming that you are prepared to proceed with legal action via Office of Fair Trading, Small Claims Tribunal etc, you will need to provide evidence that the "defects have been reported during the warranty period". Accordingly for this purpose, it may be worthwhile to engage a solicitor to send a legal letter via registered post to the dealer outlining the defects and course of events/happenings.