campbeam

9 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

Request a cylinder leak down test be done first of all, this will identify exactly where it is losing compression.

This is what needs to be done first to identify where to further investigate to confirm what part/s really need to be replaced.

As you have discovered [at your expense] guessing can be expensive and still not fix the problem.

In hindsight, Best to find a mechanic that has had experience with your model Camry engine and can properly diagnose the underlying problem.

I bought my 2006 Aurion from a wholesaler via eBay about 2 years ago and then had it sitting for some months. Although service records were provided, no exactly filled with confidence that it had been serviced by a non-Toyota dealership under some extended warranty plan.

Air-conditioning was ok but I thought that it could be colder. Decided to get the air-conditioning system checked and re-gassed before going on holidays. Mobile specialist checked the system for leaks; none, before re-gassing the system. I asked about whether any parts needed to be replaced; none, all ok.

What he did mention was that the limitation of the 500ml capacity of the air-conditioning system [compared to other vehicles] and to use the recirculating airflow for better effect that having the system trying to cool hotter air from outside.

26 minutes ago, trentmeyer23 said:

The clicking could have been one of the control servos behind the dash.

Agree. Air-conditioning system was re-gassed in March 2016 and I have had the temperature setting on max. cold since then.

Quite happy it was just this instead of a wheel bearing, the A/C Compressor or an engine belt etc.

Fortunate enough to have previously read the post about sticking valve and A/C Temperature setting.

I usually have the temperature setting on maximum cold and just change the fan speed and airflow direction.

We have had a few 34 degree days in Brisbane so driving with maximum cold setting and full fan speed. After lunch, I had just turned onto the local highway and accelerated up to 80kph speed limit when I heard something unusual then the cabin was filled with an unbearable air pressure related resonating noise.This noise went away when the window was lowered but returned when the window was raised. Turning off the air-conditioner made no difference. Later, I checked under the car and noticed water dripping from a rubber tube,condensation from using the air-con. After checking the engine bay, wheels and the exhaust, I then went for a short test drive but no problems.

A few hours later when accelerating onto the highway, I heard a clicking noise coming from the dash near the central air vents. While driving and changing the air-conditioning controls by touch, either myself or my passenger accidentally changed the temperature setting. All solved; no more resonating noises and clicking noise gone. 

3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

careful not to introduce air into the system

I have been wary when bleeding brakes.

Best to do your research for your particular vehicle for what the recommended/preferred brake fluid bleeding procedure is. My earlier vehicles had no ABS or Traction Control etc so the braking system could be considered quite simple. I specifically remember that the earlier Honda Preludes required special tools for bleeding the brakes so there were a few "horror" stories doing the rounds at that time. One very good reason for being on these Forums.

Just like any repair/service, select those professionals that have the experience/knowledge for your specific vehicle.

13 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

This quote is directly from RDAs website.

Read and learn. Looks like I will now have to consider changing back to DOT3 fluid probably with a higher operating range. 

Previously, I have used DOT4 instead of DOT3 in my various vehicles over the years. Will consider using DOT5.1 because of its higher boiling point. 

DOT3 fluid is supposedly a bit cheaper than DOT4 but I prefer to have the higher specification.

Following URLs explain the different brake fluid specifications.

https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/brake-fluid-explained.129355/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid

12 hours ago, LordBug said:

setting up a mister in front of the radiator

Thank you for the suggestion. More food for thought.

Definitely a cost effective option worth actioning for those owners with motorhomes, caravans and boats towing them in hilly terrain or high temperature regions. 

4 minutes ago, trentmeyer23 said:

Toyota OEM radiators and fan setups are incredibly efficient and reliable.

Certainly not planning upon replacing the radiator unless/until it gets a crack in the top plastic section. This happened to the original radiator in my 1998 Camry about 2 years ago. Uneconomical to replace this section, so I bought a replacement new radiator from eBay which as advertised, fitted perfectly. I cannot remember whether this replacement had a slightly thicker core or was the same as the original.  

You should be ok with 225/45/18 if you are really keen on having 18"mag wheels

http://www.redbook.com.au/cars/research/used/details/2016-toyota-aurion-sportivo-auto/SPOT-ITM-433847 

3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

With regards to oil cooling, I think it's going too far.

Don't thrash my vehicle mainly doing less than 3000 rpm except when overtaking on the highway.

I do a regular interstate trip from Brisbane to Wagga Wagga down the Newell Highway. Cruising all day and going up Cunninghams Gap without any problem. Temperature guage indicator sits horizontally at the halfway mark without any fluctuation. On my 1998 Camry, the temperature guage indicator sits just below the halfway mark. 

Not doing any towing at the moment but my unregistered 2008 Aurion is fitted with a towbar so maybe later in 2017/18. 

Personally, I like my vehicles to be totally reliable in all driving conditions ie cruising all day at 100-110kph or being able to crawl along at walking pace in congested traffic going past vehicles that have succumbed to overheating.

Also a great believer in both regular and preventative maintenance.

Nothing to fix at the moment but like to be prepared for the unexpected or unwanted event e.g. have recently replaced the VVTi oil line. Due to forward planning, I had the parts and instructions on hand. 

41 minutes ago, matt36415 said:

remote spin on filter for the transmission

Thank you for the suggestion about the spin on filter and also the cooler thermostat. I already have the transmission oil cooler and transmission filters so I had previously discounted the spin on filter option. Upon further consideration, it should be possible to fit it in series with the oil cooler. Will also do some research about a hi-flow thermostat ready for when the thermostat needs to be replaced.

When I bought my 1995 Honda Prelude, it was fitted with 18" mag wheels instead of the standard 15" mag wheels.

Lower profile tyres, worn shock absorbers etc had contributed to the mag wheels being buckled.

Ended up getting a replacement set of 16" mags with higher profile tyres much cheaper than replacing one of the 18" tyres.  

Not into wasting time and money. However, I do try to plan ahead. Better to research options and ask before an issue actually occurs.

I have had the plastic top section of the radiator previously crack/fail on 2 different vehicles. Therefore, if this was to happen to my 2006 Aurion, I would prefer to put in a heavy duty full aluminium radiator with the expectation that it would be more effective at cooling.

A contributing factor to engines that are more susceptible to sludge formation is poor design with insufficient oil sump capacity resulting in increased oil temperature. Fortunately, the 2GR-FE engine already has an oil cooler in its design. Still I do think that the 6.1 litre engine oil capacity is just adequate for a V6 particularly since 2.2 to 2.5litre 4 cylinder engines have a 5 litre engine oil capacity.

I am also considering eventually fitting a transmission oil cooler in front of the radiator but have yet to do so. 

Remembered previously reading about the Kangaroo Paw in brake rotor design. If I needed to replace brake rotors today, then I would be seriously considering the following eBay listing then deciding which Bendix brake pad set, General CT or Ultimate.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Front-Pair-DBA-Brake-Rotor-DBA2709-Fit-Toyota-Aurion-3-5-06-ON-/142102444918?hash=item2115f73b76:g:aecAAOSwKOJYKDGn 

1 minute ago, trentmeyer23 said:

Is it overheating?

No overheating issues. Temperature sits right at the mid-point. Always looking for/considering optimal efficiency options/gains when replacing parts. 

Something I have been considering is a cost-effective way to improve the engine cooling capabilities either by increasing the engine oil capacity, fitting a larger capacity radiator and/or increasing the airflow through the engine bay.

I have previously thought about modifying the oil pan by fitting an in-line oil cooler but hesitant about doing this due to space and proximity to the exhaust. Also thought about the potential to modify the bonnet by fitting a bonnet vent/s but reluctant to be cutting a hole/s. 

On eBay, I have seen a replacement radiator for a TOYOTA Camry ACV40 with a thicker core [32mm] so this could be the preferred option for my GSV40 Aurion. Removing the engine cover may be an additional cooling option.

Has anyone done any of these options? 

Jon, 

better to research the maufacturers' website Bendix, DBA and RDA etc.

Personally, I have used the Bendix Ultimate pads which are ideal for highway driving. Probably consider the Bendix General pads next time which appear to be a better choice for city driving. 

My thoughts are to also select a better quality rotor so it will be less susceptible to warping or cracking. More likely to select a slotted rotor and dimpled rather than drilled.

Even if you are not hooning or driving hard, there may be the occasion where you need to do an extreme braking manoeuvre for life preservation reasons. About 30 years ago, I had to do a hard emergency brake from 110km to stationary to avoid a head on collision with an overtaking vehicle. Still remember the blue tyre smoke, giving that female motorist the filthiest drop dead stare and seeing the startled look on her face realising she had made a near fatal driving mistake.

Excellent experience why I do NOT compromise on brake pads and rotors. 

3 minutes ago, Jonfrodo said:

I want a rotors that will last at least another 100,000K

I have done my research on brake rotors and pads sometime ago. Personally, I have had good usage with Bendix Brake Pads although I have come across a few ërrors"in their catalogue. Bendix have issued a Technical bulletin about the Aurion brake pads and the slight variation between DB2243 and DB1474.

Rather than take a risk with China "bargains", I prefer to stay with the proven Australian brake rotor manufacturers. Forgotten whether I used DBA or RDA rotors on my 1998 Toyota Camry

I just happen to have the following in my eBay watchlist for ready reference purposes.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161742067523?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-Aurion-GSV40-GSV50-296mm-FRONT-Disc-Brake-Rotors-2-Brake-Pads-1-/272116868088?hash=item3f5b6de3f8:g:GGQAAOSwLVZVpfTA

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121663182093?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251618728870?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251602185391?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 Most likely the hydraulic clutch fluid level is low.

I use the hand pump section from a used household liquid soap dispenser to pump out the old fluid from the reservoir into the plastic bottle.

Then put in fresh fluid. I mainly do this for the steering and brake fluid reservoirs. In my 1995 Honda Prelude, I just fill the clutch fluid reservoir back to the full mark. Previous owner did warn me to check the clutch fluid level and refill as required.

In this YouTube video, he has topped up the clutch fluid above the full mark with the resultant overflow and cleanup. Best to learn from what has not been done by others and improve. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tz0173Vy0o

Also a friend has a 2000 Toyota Celica just passed 300,000km on the odometer but he is very particular about NOT riding the clutch and tries not to have to come to a complete halt at traffic lights.

SuperCheap and AutoBarn also have oil specials which started Boxing Day.

Already have lots of oil but went to AutoBarn today and got 2 x 5litre bottles of Castrol Magnatec10W-40 which is the latest SN specification [over 50% off]. Most likely back to AutoBarn for another 2 bottles Saturday.

When I last changed the auto transmission fluid on my 1998 Camry and on my 1996 Nissan Pulsar, I used the flush method as described in the attachment.

There are also YouTube videos showing this flush treatment. Handy to know for future reference.

Alternatively, you can do a regular change of the ATF in the oil pan which is what I have done for my Aurion.

Also after reading this article, I will be using synthetic ATF instead of DEXTRON.

Toyota Camry ATF Transmission Fluid Flush.docx

I have used 36 psi front and rear on my various vehicles over many years.

At last wheel alignment for my Aurion, Bob Jane TMart used 38 psi so I have changed over to now using that tyre pressure.

It makes sense as the Aurion is heavier than most 4cylinder vehicles.

I have bought a 12Volt compressor on eBay but it mainly stays in storage for emergency use or when I want to pump up tyres on an unregistered vehicle.

So, I check tyre pressures at the garage about monthly. I pump up each tyre twice; pump, remove air hose, re-pump or set pressure to 39 psi. Not fussy enough these days to use a personal tyre guage to check the accuracy of the tyre pressure.

Based upon reading various articles about engine oil, I have come to the conclusion that engine oil quality and performance is dependent upon the base oil quality and additive package used by an oil manufacturer.

Furthermore, engine oil only needs to be replaced when it becomes contaminated and/or additive levels have decreased so that the oil is no longer providing the required levels of engine lubrication, protection etc.

Therefore, as an end user, it becomes a balancing act between choosing premium quality oils that support longer service intervals or acceptable quality oils [still meeting vehicle manufacturer's requirements] with shorter service intervals that are suitable for your vehicle's engine [low vs high mileage] and driving conditions [urban vs highway].

Personally, I am "price-sensitive" so buy GF-5 / SN specification oil when it is on special at SuperCheap, AutoBarn, Repco etc.

5 hours ago, DanRAV4 said:

Debating what to do...  

 Best to "log" the problem with the dealer ASAP, so there is a record. Based upon another post where the noise got louder between 105-110,000 kms, you should anticipate having to make a warranty claim.