campbeam

The dealer should be able to run a diagnostic check on both the engine and the transmission to identify the cause.

I have had a similar experience coasting into corners and trying to accelerate but encounter a delay before responding. Solved months later when I properly checked and adjusted the automatic transmission fluid level. I have read a post in another forum about incorrect fluid levels from the factory so it cannot be totally discounted. Alternatively, there are sensors on the transmission which monitor line pressure and this can impact upon timing of gear changes. 

Located the following URL which mentions a critical value range for low oil pressure.

https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/engine-oil-pressure-switch-operating-principles-kiril-mucevski

Best to use an oil within the recommended viscosity range as per the owner's manual and the best specification; latest is SN or GF-5.

Also lots of regular oil and filter changes especially if mostly short distance driving.

I have done postings about my experiences with engine oil sludge removal in the 2GR-FE engines for my 2006 Aurion and recently purchased 2009 Aurion.

Can you advise which transmission is fitted to the vehicle; CVT or 6 speed sports automatic?

Has the transmission been recently serviced?

Time for another oil and filter change and possibly another oil flush. May be worthwhile having a look at this URL 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2869329&page=all

Check the engine for oil sludge. If necessary, remove the lower oil pan and check the oil pick up tube. 

Google search with the search terms "Lubrication Guide" and brand  e.g. Castrol or Penrite etc

http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/

Navigate using 'Commercial Vehicles - Light & 4WD' -> TOYOTA -> Kluger

Consider the use of the carbon-fibre wrap. Have a look at some of the photos of the interiors posted by members. I think that it will blend in quite well with the rest of the interior

Looks like you are on the right track.

Main factor is to keep to oil viscosity as recommended by the car manufacturer.   

I concentrate upon the oil specification; latest being SN and GF-5.

Attached document contains more URLs about understanding engine oils and a comparison diagram between the GF-4 and GF-5 specification.

Engine Oil URLs and GR4 GR5 Performance Comparison.doc

Go back to the earlier replies and read again the following URL about how to pick the right oil

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a53/1266801/

If necessary, re-read the article a few times to increase your level of comprehension.

You will need to do this so you will be able to more readily understand some more URLs that I will post later.

Battery light usually indicates that either your battery or alternator has a fault.

Suggest putting your battery on a charger to see how long it takes to fully charge. Also check the connections at the alternator.

ABS light is commonly caused by one of the wheel sensors not working to specification.

If you have an OBD2 scanner, the error codes will indicate which sensor or other part is not functioning. Otherwise, you can clean the sensors and rings on each of the wheel hubs and hope that the light stays away.

Super Cheap Latest Catalogue contains 1 Day Sale Sunday 28th August 2016 for

Castrol Edge Full Synthetic Engine Oil 5 Litre 5W-40 $29.99 [Limit 2 per Customer]

Just in case you missed seeing this in the catalogue.

A few years ago, we had the rear bumper on the 1998 Camry resprayed [white] for about $200. Today's price should be about $300; just guessing.

Have you considered getting a quote from mobile scratch and dent repairer. Expect to pay $60 to $100.

Depending upon the location of the scratch, consider a sticker or bumper protector. Here is one example on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Bumper-Door-Edge-Lip-Guard-Chrome-Decoration-Protector-Moulding-Trim-Strip-/291800271563?fits=Make%3AToyota&hash=item43f0a6cacb:g:0BwAAOSwMNxXa1JG

I happened to be doing a Google search with the terms of oil and turbocharger and located the following URL which may be of interest to anyone with a turbocharger on their engine.I thought the article was informative with the different sections on What to look for and Why it happens.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2015/10/how-oil-change-habits-are-killing-turbos/

Based upon a conversation I overheard about a mystery cooling leak issue, check your heater hoses and any of the smaller coolant hoses on the engine plus their fittings.

A leak may only happen when the coolant is heated up and any drops evaporate on the hot engine block.

On my previous 1999 subaru liberty, the top radiator hose was "soft"and would occassionally have a compressed look. Eventually, that hose had an obvious fail, emergency duct tape repairs for the trip home and then replaced.

Otherwise, it could be the head gasket leaking coolant into a cylinder and then out the exhaust.

Also consider your brake fluid.

http://www.rdabrakes.com.au/page/TB04.aspx

Has your mechanic tried to clean the sensors?

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-clean-an-oxygen-sensor

Maybe this URL will be of some assistance.

http://blog.obd365.com/2014/10/21/how-to-calibrate-steering-angle-sensor-sas/

What I did note in reading the following URL was the importance of replacing the fuel filter when replacing the fuel pump.

http://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-articles/clean-fuel-tanks-important/

Maybe the current fuel filter is restricting fuel flow and the pump is working harder, therefore the noise.

Looks a good choice to be using a 5w-40 full synthetic oil.

Here are another 2 URLs about high temperature viscosity and high shear rate viscosity for your consideration.

http://www.viscopedia.com/viscosity-tables/substances/sae-viscosity-grades/

http://hddeo.com/hthsarticle.html

Personally, I would be giving careful consideration to those higher viscosity oils with a high shear rate for improved wear protection.

Engine's operating temperature is much higher than the outside temperature. The vehicle's cooling system is going to be more impacted by the outside temperature and its efficiency to cool the engine.

Sound like you are in a desert region. What is the lower temperature when you start the engine?

I live in a coastal city [min.5 degrees Winter max. 35 degrees Summer] and use a 10W-30 oil with the following specifications API SN/CF and ILSAC GF-5.

Have a read of the following URLs which explain oil selection and oil specifications.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a53/1266801/

http://www.oilspecifications.org/api_eolcs.php

As per the chart in the user manual, I would be considering a higher viscosity oil e.g. 10W-40 with higher specifications to deal with the high temperature.

On 12/08/2016 at 8:09 PM, trentmeyer23 said:

I would be cautious of the diagnosis that you are given by Pedders.

I would be getting a second opinion from a well established suspension specialist shop e.g. Fulcrum Suspension

After a telephone conversation about Pedders Springs [not going to mention any further details], I would avoid their standard range. Their website gives the impression that Pedders has their own manufacturing facility but no specifics provided.

I have previously used standard height heavy duty King Springs and am highly confident of their quality. So best to stick with a proven quality manufacturer. King Springs guarantee their product so have a look at their website for details and they are located on the Gold Coast Qld.

In short, yes. However, best to get a written report from a recognised suspension shop. Best to deal with a factual report before spending lots of $$$$

Personally, I would be going to Pedders Suspension and paying the $29 for a suspension check. This report should confirm whether the front struts need to be replaced now or later and the condition of the rear struts. 

I have previously used Boge struts and King Springs supplied by Fulcrum Suspension. Boge is now owned by Sachs.

I have had the same experience with the engine blowing smoke. The cause is engine sludge. I have done postings on this issue so do a search on this Forum with the search term "blowing smoke" and you should locate it.

What is happening is that oil is being drawn/sucked into the intake via the PCV because oil lubricating the valve gear cannot drain away quick enough. My PCV was blocked up with oil sludge.

The best quick solution is to remove both valve covers and thoroughly cleaned to remove the sludge from the oil drain channels. Also clean the PCV [positive crankcase ventilation valve].

What I have done is to use 500ml of diesel or ATF instead of commercial engine flush. I have done eight [8] oil and filter cartridge changes in the last 12 months and over 13K. Last oil change last weekend was quite black. and still plenty of "coffee grounds" caught in the filter cartridge. Finally satisfied that the engine is definitely and totally de-sludged.

Recently bought a 2009 Aurion done 106K with the same smoking issue. Already put 2 lots of commercial engine flush through it with oil and filter changes then done the 500ml of ATF treatment a few times. Smokes a very little bit after start up but has improved noticeably.

I was told by an ex-Toyata dealer employee that the Aurion engine should be good for about 400K before rings will need to be done.

The original Toyota spark plugs should have a life of about 190K. When you do go to replace the plugs, NGK and Denso are usually the brands that are recommended. Ensure you get the long life iridium plugs. The regular iridium plugs don't have platinum side electrodes.

Suggest you rely more upon the advice from the Toyota Dealership. Personally, I have never taken any of my vehicles to UltraTune.

My rule of thumb thoughts are that the struts are about 50% worn after 45K and to consider replacement after 100K. Having said that, I have recently bought a 2009 Aurion with 106K and not planning upon replacing the struts when it is re-registered.

Also experienced that bouncing feeling with my 2006 Aurion on the last interstate trip. Oil in the struts would have got quite hot after a few hours of highway driving . Now at 179K, it is a potential candidate for replacement at 200K. Before doing that, I would be going to a recognised suspension shop with shock absorber testing equipment for a suspension check.

Another thought is that your front passenger side strut is more likely to get a hammering from potholes etc than the driver's side. That would explain why that strut [on another vehicle] had to be replaced after only 35K.

I do a Google search for Lubrication Guide Penrite or Lubrication Guide Castrol etc.

http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/penriteaus/

Best to check it yourself but it appears that the a full or semi-synthetic transmission fluid is recommended for your vehicle. 

Anyway a full synthetic transmission fluid has better performance characteristics than Dextron III. This is why I just buy and use

synthetic ATF in the auto transmission of my various vehicles.  Dextron III can be used in the Power Steering, if it is recommended in the Lubrication Guide.

I mainly use 91 UPL unless 95 ULP is very cheap. I did fill up with E10 95 in NSW on an interstate trip and did not notice any noticable difference in performance or fuel economy. It has been mainly a collective number of forum comments about the differences between using 95 RON compared to 91 RON. The assumption is that if the engine is specifically tuned for 91 RON then using a higher octane is not going to be much different. Apparently there are 2 sets of performance figures when using 91 RON and 95 RON. Also presumed to be a bit of a marketing ädvantage" that the engine uses standard ULP rather than the more expensive higher octane fuel.

After looking at the YouTube videos for the Shell V-Power, I will be using it for a few tankfuls to presumably clean the intake valves etc. In my 2006 Aurion now 179,000Km, I have started using the Fuel Doctor product to clean the fuel system more as a preventative maintenance measure. So maybe the intake valves have already been cleaned. Anyway spend a few extra $ to put the Shell V Power to the test before deciding whether to go back to 91 ULP + Fuel Doctor or 95 ULP.