campbeam
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Posts posted by campbeam
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At the time I did not notice any threaded end and the star wheel adjuster component appeared to be one piece.
Thinking more bout it, maybe the adjuster has been fully threaded in and is stuck. Will take a closer look with a magnifying glass
Certainly will fully back off the tension at the pedal, adjust the brake shoes, then re-tension the pedal.
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Unfortunately, I did not take any photos with the rotors off. Yes, there is a star wheel adjuster. Seemed to work fine on the driver's side to expand the brake shoe. Passenger side adjuster did not appear to work, no change.
I had a look at my electronic version of the workshop manual, it showed 2 separate brake shoes with springs, retaining clips etc. It could be based upon the USA model not the Australian model.
Planning upon having another closer look at this passenger side and have plenty of daylight hours to fully disassemble and reassemble if required.
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I did some more research. This is what the part looks like.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-GENUINE-TOYOTA-Camry-Parking-Brake-Shoe-Kit-/181854763764
I am sure that the Australian Camry/Aurion Part number is 04495-06050 for 2006 - 2009 models.
Now just have to sort out the brake shoe adjustment.
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Yes, it should be an easy task to correctly adjust the parking brake shoe clearance. I fully expect that if I was doing this adjustment on my 2006 model Aurion, then it would have been as per the manual and there would have been no unexpected issues
I took the rotors off to clean away the brake dust and to check the condition of the brake shoes etc. All good, so no replacement brake shoe/s component/s required.
Also by removing the rotors, I discovered that the BS3216 parking brake shoes as per the Bendix Brake Catalog are not applicable for this vehicle.
This setup is entirely different to what was expected as per the manual. The hole plug on the rotor does not appear to align with any hole on the hub to enable easy access to the adjuster.
Perhaps the parking brake shoe clearance is not adjusted for this one piece parking brake component and you adjust the parking brake pedal travel only or maybe you adjust the brake shoe clearance from the rear.
Be good to hear from someone with a 2009 model or later who has done the parking brake shoe adjustment to share their experience.
Once I have got this sorted out on this 2009 model Aurion, I will give an update.
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I have recently acquired a 2009 model Toyota Aurion Prodigy, build date December 2008, done 106,000 km.
Parking brake was not working and badly needed adjustment.
I did my internet research and located the following threads plus a YouTube video
http://www.tcamanual.com/parking_brake_assy-781.html
Therefore, I was expecting a 2 brake shoe setup. What the car has is a one piece brake shoe with the braking material on either side. Rear rotors on both sides slid off easily. On the rear driver's side I was able to use the adjuster. After re-assembly, I then went to the passenger side. The adjuster did not seem to work and expand the component. I then discovered that this one piece shoe assembly just slides off, push up and clear the adjuster at the bottom to remove. All very simple and easy. I then removed the side of the adjuster with the notched wheel expecting to find a threaded section. Not to be, it is a 1 piece. Due to time constraints, I just re-assembled, then later went and adjusted the cable from inside the cabin.
So next Saturday, I am planning upon having a better investigation of the parking brake assembly. I am thinking that the other side of the adjuster has the threaded section or maybe the brake shoe is adjusted from behind similar to early model Hondas with drum brakes.
Has anyone else encountered the same 1 piece setup and had better results with adjusting the brake shoe?
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Giorgio,
Read the post from TrentMeyer again. The more information that you can provide, the better the answers you can expect to get.
Was the old transmission oil very dark or even black in colour?
Do you know when the transmission was last serviced? I suspect that it must have been a long time ago.
Did you do a full transmission flush that changes all of the oil in the transmission including the torque converter and the cooler. This procedure can use about 8 litres of oil or more.
I think that you more likely replaced the oil that was in the filter and transmission pan, about 2.8 litres. If so, 2.8 litres of new oil has mixed with 3 litres of old oil.
Suggest you change the oil in the transmission pan again, drive for about a week then see if the gear change has improved. Hopefully, the additives in the new oil would have cleaned the galleries in the valve body.
If no improvement, next step will be to buy some transmission fluid flush (do an internet search) and change the oil and maybe also the filter again.
If all of that does not work, then take it to an automatic transmission shop for them to dismantle and clean. I estimate that could cost you about $500
Personally, I think that you have paid too much for a 1994 Camry and you could be throwing away more money. If it can not be fixed cheaply, then make the best of a bad situation, save your money and buy another car with less than 200.000KM.
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Yes, I thought it was a meaningful real world test. Amsoil is available in Australia but expensive. I did a Google search and located this distributor in Melbourne.
http://lubricationmanagement.com.au/index.php?route=product/category&path=42
I have made note of the following synthetic transmission fluids PENRITE ATF LV and Valvoline MaxLife which should be readily available from SuperCheap or AutoBarn.
Personally, I have used the Chief Mohican Auto Transmission Fluid - Synthetic Multi-Vehicle from SuperCheap [bought heaps of it when on special] but I am planning upon changing the transmission filter and fluid on a regular basis i.e. every 3 years or 40-50,000KM. My 2006 Aurion has only done about 5,000 KM since a change of filter and 2 changes of the pan fluid so not making any personal recommendations.
Unfortunately, I do not know of any excellent transmission service centres. Just like any business, check out recent customer reviews. Ideally, you want someone with the knowledge and experience of servicing these U660E transmissions. Hopefully, a few Forum members will be able to post a personal recommendation.
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A replacement reconditioned U660E transmission costs about $4,000 plus fitting. So with that in mind, choose wisely who will be replacing the transmission fluid.The auto transmission specialist should know about the necessary technical bulletins and hopefully, also have the specialised tools to get the right fluid level.
The replacement automatic transmission fluid has to meet the Toyota WS specification.
For information purposes, you may be interested in the following field test results
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g3118.pdf
Draw your own conclusions about the final oil analysis results. At least it shows a difference in the expected life of different fluids.
I am not sure about the life of the Toyota genuine transmission filter but I recall an internet posting most likely from a USA transmission shop recommending replacing the filter every 25,000 - 30,000 miles (40,000 - 48,000 Kms).
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Suggest do the throttle body clean and the Fuel Doctor first then reassess. Re-check the transmission fluid level [more as an elimination step].
If the problem still persists, go to your Tyoyta Dealer and ask them to hook it up to their diagnostic machine. A guaranteed way to find out if there are any faulty sensors that need to be cleaned or replaced.
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I prefer to use the Bendix Ultimate Pads.
I found this Bendix News article after I had bought the DB1474 pads, so buy the DB2243 front pads.
http://www.bendix.com.au/news/comparing-db1474-db2243-toyota-camry-aurion-v40
I am light on brakes and try to drive defensively using anticipation of traffic flow rather than other drivers who tailgate, accelerate hard only to have to brake hard.
Occassionally, the unexpected happens so it pays to have the best quality brake pads and rotors plus decent tyres and suspension to shorten your emergency braking distance.
I will be replacing the front and rear brake pads this weekend on a 2009 model Aurion (done 106,200KM) but using previously bought DB1474 front pads and DB1475 rear pads I bought at SuperCheap . Rotors are worn but ok for now. Plan is that when these pads or rotors are worn down, I will replace with DBA rotors and Bendix pads.
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Suggest you look at the Youtube videos. I am expecting that you will see the hole for spraying cleaner into when cleaning the throttle body.
I have also read the reviews about Fuel Doctor and given my Aurion the initial shock treatment etc. I bought the large bottle costing about $37 at SuperCheap. Again, it was more of a preventative maintenance measure.
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Have you ever cleaned the idle air control valve and the air intake body. It was something that I overlooked on my 1998 Camry. Car was idling fine at traffic lights then at the next it would not idle without accelerator. I now do this service about every 5000KM
Suggest a Google search with the search terms " toyota camry idle air control valve" for the Youtube videos etc on how to do this.
May also be worthwhile to check the spark plugs (clean and re-gap) and inspect the ignition leads.
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Best to check which model transmission is fitted to your Echo e.g. U440E
After 210,000KM, the transmission filter is also due for replacement. Assuming that you can easily get to all of the fasteners on the transmission pan, it should be a straightforward task.
If the Echo is similar to the Camry, then there will be cooler lines going to and from the transmission and the cooler at the bottom of the radiator. By disconnecting the return hose back to the transmission, you can fully flush the transmission for a complete fluid change.
Total oil capacity is about 5.6 litres and the drain and fill is only 2.1 litres. Therefore 2.1 litres of new oil will be mixed with 3.5 litres of old oil, 100 percent old oil will become 62.5 percent after first drain, 39 percent after 2nd drain, 24 percent after 3rd drain and 15 percent after 4th drain,
Personally, I have done a transmission flush using the oil line disconnect procedure on my 1998 Toyota Camry.
Recently, I have changed the transmission filter on my Toyota Aurion. At the time, I could not easily locate the cooler lines to do the transmission flush. While the pan was off, I used degreaser to clean whatever transmission internals were visible and to thoroughly clean the transmission pan. About 2 weeks later, I did a drain and fill. I was planning upon replacing the transmission filter again after 40,000KM
For preventative maintenance reasons, I have been using XADO treatment products in the engine and transmission etc. So if you keep your vehicles long term, do yuour internet searches and work out whether it is worthwhile for you.
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An option to consider would be to contact a business that does plastic welding if the part is not readily available.
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Suggest doing a Google search with the search terms "u660e shift flare concerns"
Some of the search results show the Toyota Technical Bulletin issued in the USA.It mentions placing a sticker on the bonnet/hood when the transmission control module TCM has been recalibrated.
Look at the posts in the Toyotanation.com site. There is no obvious solution but the U660e transmissions are "supposedly sensitive" to their fluid level; neither under-filled or overfilled. Personally, I replaced the transmission filter and then replaced the ATF fluid with the same amount that was drained (approximate measurement 2.8 litres). Gear changes appeared to be a bit harsher at first then settled down. Next weekend, I checked the fluid level when the car engine was cold by loosening the overflow plug and about 300ml drained out.
Please note that there are no guarantees that changing the ATF filter and fluid will fix flaring but it does make sense as the ATF fluid ages and becomes contaminated that it will/could impact upon gear changes. Worthwhile doing for preventative maintenance purposes especially after 70,000KM if you towing or if "exuberant" in your driving style.
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Suggest you do a Google search for "Lubricant Guide" and then select from the search results.
Your vehicle require a full synthetic ATF Personally, I have bought the Chief brand of synthetic ATF at Supercheap mainly because of price.
Otherwise, I would be considering PENRITE. Also consider doing a drain of the transmission fluid more than once.
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Traditionally, I associate fog lights with yellow.
You may be interested in the following URL for the photos and comments
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21936
Always best to check with your State Dept of Transport about any legal requirements or limitations on fog lights. Not good if you end up being pulled over by the police and told to remove them because they are too bright and blinding oncoming traffic.
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A few months ago, I had the same thoughts about upgrading brake lines but decided to defer until actually required.
I am more likely to upgrade rotors and brake pads for emergency braking purposes.
Also quite concerning about the quality and subsequent failure of stainless steel braided hoses, still comes down to the quality of materials and workmanship..
You may be interested in the following eBay listing for information purposes:
It would appear that if the hoses comply with the applicable ADR and SAE standards then they should be legal. However, I would recommend contacting your insurer about this proposed vehicle modification and also your State Department of Transport to confirm before proceeding with a purchase.
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Autotradespares.com.au for Aurion Auto Transmission Kit WCTK134 Wesfill cost $13.59 instead of $52 on eBay.com.au
Certainly learnt the expensive way to do better internet searches to find part numbers.
Sparespro.com.au previously purchased oil filters for various vehicles.
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Results of internet searches from 2012 attached.
At that time I was looking for instructions relating to my 1998 Camry.
Please note that I have not actually performed these instructions myself so best check that they relate to your vehicle year.
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I phoned Toyota Australia today and spoke with their Customer Experience area. As per previous posts, I was advised that the oil cooler lines would only be replaced if they were leaking. I enquired about the VVTi line but this was not included. Looks like it is a case of monitoring for oil leaks then book the car into a dealer when it happens.
The VVti line diameter is approx. 10mm [3/8"] and the oil cooler line diameter is approx. 16mm [5/8"]. In an emergency, I reckon that I could do a roadside repair to replace the rubber hose on the VVTi line. An emergency roadside repair on the Newell Highway for one or both of the oil cooler hoses is definitely something I want to avoid.
After many internet searches and looking at braided oil hoses on eBay, I will definitely be ordering the oil cooler part and gaskets from Amayama to fit when I do my next oil change in a few months.
I did find instructions for replacing the VVTi oil line.
I now need to find similar instructions preferably with photos for replacing/fitting the oil cooler lines.
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Hope the attached document is of some assistance. It is only a selected sample of the results.
You have replaced four mounts for engine and presumably the transmission. Suggest open the bonnet, rev the motor and watch for any engine movement. There should be none or very little movement. Also listen or look for any vacum leaks that may be causing the engine to miss or vibrate when under accelerating.
Next, you mentioned that you have replaced CV joints. Is that both outer and inner CV joints on both drive shafts?
I would be [under the car] checking the drive shafts to confirm there is no play.
No harm in using injector cleaner as mentioned in the Google search.
Not sure how you can check the torque converter; maybe go to an auto transmission specialist.
Google Search Results vibration under acceleration toyota.doc
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The following URL with photos should be of assistance
It is what I referred to before changing the transmission filter in my 2006 Aurion.
You will definitely need to loosen the transmission mount which is accessible from the passenger side. Note either remove or turn the front passenger wheel for enough access. You will then need to raise the transmission; I used a hydraulic trolley jack with a piece of wood or an old book to make the contact with the transmission. The more clearance you can get the better. I ended up using a thin small 10mm ring spanner to loosen that one bolt. So be prepared for a quite frustrating time.
The attached pdf shows the O-Ring for the filter and the position of the 2 magnets in the pan. After removing the pan and the filter, I used de-greaser to clean the pan and magnets and also the valve body assembly.
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Previously read your post and been thinking about it. I would certainly like to know the solution.
Looks like you have had the usual causes already investigated and eliminated.
Just read this article so maybe the rotors and/or brake pads should be inspected.
http://automotivethinker.com/brakes-2/rotors-blank-vs-cross-drilled-vs-slotted-and-warping/
Foot Parking Brake Adjustment
in Aurion / TRD Aurion Club
Posted
Also thank you for the reply.
There should be an internal thread to expand the brake shoe. Just wrong footed at the time, probably too fixated on what to expect as per the manual.