campbeam
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Posts posted by campbeam
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The following URLs may be of some assistance.
http://scangauge.com.au/atf-temperature-a-gauge/
http://scangauge.com.au/x-gauge-commands/
https://www.scangauge.com/xgauge/toyota-lexus-scion-cansf-transmission-temperature/
This URL may also be of some interest.
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On my 2006 Aurion, the foot parking brake is definitely mechanical and spreads the single piece brake shoe inside the rotor hub. Checked a few days ago and the parking brake light comes on befoe I have fully pushed down the foot parking brake indicating that there is a switch most likely under the dash.
This is why when I originally looked at this post, it was not making sense. No wonder about the response from Trent.
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It would be a good idea to be using a full synthetic engine oil with the SN oil classification.
I have been using XADO products mainly in the engine for more than 6 years for efficiency and preventative maintenance purposes. If you "accept" their claims, XADO will rebuild worn [not broken] parts back to specification. Suggest that you do your own Google/internet searches and decide whether you want to "take a $100 gamble".
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251759288192?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
If either of the above do not reduce or eliminate that rattling noise, then I would be looking at a dismantle of the VVT-i system to check whether the pin is engaging. After that you will need to consider the expensive options of an engine rebuild or replacement.
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I use RedBook for pricing and model specification information. As RedBook says, it is a Guide. I would suggest to look more closely at the final figure/cost to upgrade.
In your situation, I would do the following:
1. Research/ Information Gathering to determine exactly what vehicle model you want and can afford.
2. If applicable, arrange finance. Personally, I would rather pay cash upfront and avoid interest payments and higher insurance premiums.
3. Engage a professional used car broker.
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Best to deal with facts. I am a very satisfied 2006 Aurion AT-X owner; appreciate having 6cylinders and the 200 KW when overtaking on the open highway. However, very frustrated when replacing the rear VVT-i oil hose, an issue that I read up about and was prepared for with parts on hand when that line finally did fail. Earlier built models had a rubber section which was replaced by a full metal version in July 2008[?]. Oil sludge is a known issue for modern engines Some engine designs [capacity of oil sumps etc. are more prone to oil sludge and there was a class action in the USA against Toyota for 2GR-FE engine failures. This is why I do frequent oil changes every 5,00 kms. I also read up about servicing the transmission and replaced the oil and filter. Toyota GR series engines.docx
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The following is based upon my own experiences with my 2006 Aurion AT-X with a build up of oil sludge. Without doing any dismantling of the engine, it has taken me about 12 months involving oil and filter changes monthly i.e. every 2,500 - 5,000 Kms
1. A High idle problem was "addressed" by gradually spraying a can of degreaser into the air intake near the radiator. Stop spraying when the engine splutters so it [hopefully] does not stall.
2. I hope that you or friend are DIY because I am going to highly recommend that you remove the engine oil pan to check that the engine oil pick-up is not blocked by oil sludge.
3. Remove the front valve cover and thoroughly clean the oil channels using degreaser or diesel. This should significantly reduce the number of oil changes.
4. Clean/replace the Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve. When cleaning, do this a few times and repeat/check at oil changes.
5. When doing an oil change, after draining the used oil, I have filled the engine with 5 litres of diesel and let the engine IDLE [no reving] for 5-10 minutes. When dropped, the used diesel should be quite black.
6. Change oil filter cartridge and fill with new engine oil. I also added up to 500ml of diesel to the oil and monitored the oil level on a weekly basis.
7. I also started to clean the oil filter cartridge and housing using diesel fortnightly. You should see what looks like coffee grounds which is the undissolved oil sludge in the filter cartridge and housing.
Note: I buy oil filter cartridges in bulk on eBay.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/182355687844?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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I think that there may be a key control on the boot release to secure the boot so it cannot be opened using the lever in the cabin.
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I have also had the front strut brace under consideration for quite some time. What I have noticed is that the front strut towers in my 2006 Aurion are already braced with brackets to the firewall so it is more on the bargain/attractively priced only list .
A few years ago, I did my “research”. If you want aesthetics then buy the cheaper bolt together shiny aluminium strut brace. If you want functionality, then buy a rigid one piece steel strut brace.Ultra Racing and Whiteline ended up being on my preferred brand list
Based upon my personal experience with my 1998 Camry, I can recommend the Ultra Racing product. The combination of new Boge struts, heavy duty King springs and the front strut brace resulted in negligible body roll turning into suburban streets and going through roundabouts. The front strut brace was fitted a few weeks/months after the suspension replacement and it made an extra handling improvement.
However, based upon other previous posts in the Aurion Forum, I would be more inclined to firstly upgrade the rear sway bar to reduce body roll.
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Have a read of the final paragraph. All about the specific vehicle tuning by the manufacturer. There is a YouTube video done in the UK that demonstrates this exact point.
http://thenewdaily.com.au/life/auto/2014/11/14/premium-fuel-waste-money/
For those who can tolerate having personal opinions challenged by not so polite commentary.
In conclusion, the Aurion engine is E10 compatible and 91 RON minimum with expected 200KW output. There is also the ECM so the vehicle "learns" or adjusts. We all have our own personal experiences for our specific vehicle/s and fuel preferences. However, I do believe [previous reading but do not have the supporting articles, URLs etc] that the 2GR-FE engine tune will output a few more KWs with 95 RON.
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Error codes are indicating a possible dirty Mass Air Flow sensor.
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Most likely because I was researching about coil packs last week, the engine running rough could be either a coil pack going bad or it is loose.
Best to hook up an OBD II scanner to read any error codes.
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Suggest you accept the $180.
I paid a local locksmith $120 for a spare ignition key with transponder chip for my 2006 Aurion. I cannot recall the sequence to program the key but it involved opening/closing the driver's door and boot a few times. I also picked up a remote from local wreckers and I have not yet tried to program it with the attached instructions.
Overall $180 will save you a lot of messing around and you will be guaranteed that it will work.
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Based upon reading the specifications for different Osram and Philips halogen bulbs, there is a trade off between Kelvin and Lumens ratings and bulb life. Extreme white and brighter bulbs have a shorter life compared to original equipment.
Personally, I would find halogen bulbs rated at 30-60% more light on the road very suitable for my urban night time driving.
However, if I was doing a lot of night time driving on country roads then I would be going for the higher specification bulbs because the driving/safety advantage would easy outweight having to possibly replace them every 2 years.
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I did a Google search with the search term: d light not working.
Most posts indicated the bulb needed to be replaced. However, one post referred to replacing the fuse for the dash lights as their solution.
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Front = DB2243
Rear = DB1475
Bendix Brakes issued a News Bulletin comparing DB1474 to DB2243. DB1474 will fit the front calipers but have a smaller surface area compared to the DB2243 pads.
Previously, the Bendix Catalogue had DB1474 for the Aurion Front but has [finally] been updated to show DB2243.
Just to confuse the issue, eBay sellers are still listing DB1474 as front brake pads for the Aurion GSV40.
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Also consider checking with your insurance company their policies/practices about changes to the wheel size. From personal experience, my existing insurer [at that time] would accept/consider only a 1" wheel diameter change and another insurer would readily accept a 2" wheel diameter increase from standard.
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Previously seen this video and had not paid that much attention to it as I am very much a sedan driver.
Certainly something to consider if you are raising the centre of gravity of your vehicle. Ground clearance is nice but not if it compromises safety.
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I find RedBook useful for specification information. I am fairly confident going from 14" rim to 16" rim should be legal provided rims and tyres do not protrude from the guards. After finding another URL, looks like a vehicle modification limitation is lifting the vehicle less than 50mm. Definitely best to contact your local Dept. of Transport and confirm what rim size etc. that you can legally fit.
http://www.redbook.com.au/cars/research/used/details/1995-toyota-hilux-manual/SPOT-ITM-277473
http://www.offroadaussie.com/2015/02/modifying-4wd-tyres-and-suspension-legally/
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Attached URLs will give some indication of possible service items and costs. All depends when major service items such as change of automatic transmission fluid and change of spark plugs were last performed/ are now due.
http://autotech.net.au/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Aurion-Log-Book-Service-Price-List.pdf
http://www.c****rvice.com.au/car-service-cost/toyota/aurion/gsv40-aurion-trd-3-5-s_c-auto-09-/
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Before draining the transmission, locate and loosen the fill plug. Make sure that you can replace the transmission oil before proceeding to drain it. I expect that the drain plug will be magnetic so look for filings etc. Best case scenario is that the oil level is low. Worse case scenario is that your mechanic will be fitting another gearbox.
Change the oil, go for a test drive and hope things are better.
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Suggest that you give LED headlights a miss. Attached URL explains the different headlights.
When I have replaced halogen bulbs [not yet in the Aurion], I have selected halogen bulbs with more light output. Trade-off can be the bulb life, higher intensity but shorter life.
This UK seller does have LED replacements for the fog lamps.
https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/store/category/car-bulbs/fitting/h11
http://www.caradvice.com.au/278125/headlights-explained-halogen-v-hid-v-led-v-laser/
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Apparently error codes above 1000 are/can be vehicle manufacturer specific. The following URLs should give you a few ideas particularly about fuel level and delivery pressure.
As regular preventative maintenance items, I clean the throttle body and idle control valve and also check the fuel cap seal [give the seal an occassional spray with WD40]
Something else that I do when I am travelling interstate is to temporarily loosen the fuel cap to remove the vacuum in the fuel tank. My logic being that it will be easier for the fuel pump to work when the fuel level is down..
http://www.bba-reman.com/forums/topic19703.aspx
https://www.engine-codes.com/p1250.html
http://parts.olathetoyota.com/p1250-code
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?284487-P1250-Code
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You should be able to cut/adapt this cargo boot liner to fit.
Unexpected that it is cheaper at BCF instead of SUperCheap.
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On 15/2/2017 at 2:51 AM, Raja Talha said:
Also if anyone can suggest an easy way to check if I have some slightly bent valves or something.
Start with a compression test on each cylinder. If you have compression, the valves should most likely be OK. Presumably if the valves are bent then they will not close.
Another test would be to rotate the camshaft/s by hand and check the valve clearance.
Missing 5th gear
in Tarago Club
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Is it more of a case that it is popping out of 5th gear, a known issue for some 5 speed transmissions? .
Suggest also checking the transmission oil level, Not going to solve worn gears components but a low oil lwevel would indicate the cause for wear.