ZZT86

5-8mm is nothing, I would give 500-1000kms for suspension to settle.

My car never leaves the tarmac, your car won't be new for long if you go there, I would advise meeting him elsewhere :|

I also find it hard to believe - the car sits on the springs & the shocks then get compressed, although 222K kms is long way to go on dampers. The length of the damper is the same on both old & new?

Ash, I suspect you got them real cheap when many thought was a terminal future for the car ? How did you determine the car in question was a feasible DIY candidate ? Although I would hate to strip an engine for such, I prefer to "see" results before use.

Depending on how irregular the servicing, you could potentially just have a sludge issue which can be fixed by stripping the engine to clean the heads & sump/oil pump = long expensive hours. Unhappy days bro :|

for delivery, keys in hand to you :)

^^ haha - I put $$ on next week & I'm not a gambling man.

@AussieLE Congrats ! There's no way you'll be waiting another month for it if it's already at the dealer getting tint, if not 2moro then early next week. What's more I suspect they found another car that matches your order citeria to fulfill it cos it couldn't have been made 2 days ago & be here already ! Confirm build month/VIN/Engine # when you see it although it really doesn't matter. Either that or the tracking details were way off. I just googled the new Kona which I've never heard or seen B4 until now & reckon it's an ace looking truck, however, although they're making quick ground on the competition, Hyundai are NOWHERE near as technically advanced as Toyotas and certainly not as reliable. It will be a long time before I ever consider a Hyundai especially over brand T - I'm just a snob when it comes to cars as they're darn expensive to begin with. Also Hyundai appear lost at sea when it comes to styling. The Kona is evidence they're trying to change their image a bit & they're way behind Kia in that stakes cos they're really well sorted design wise.

Surely the dealer would've enlisted the help from Tech Division by now so it's odd that they have no idea, the Hybrid car is more complex though so I guess they need help from Japan. Which were the 4 lights on the dash ? ABS, CRUISE, TRAC & CEL ?

And if you take it to a racetrack & do something like an advanced driving or motorsport course that's exactly what they will recommend as a minimum. The main downside will be a firmer/harsher ride but there will be less sidewall flex giving you sharper transition from left to right.

@trentmeyer23 Right ! That's a big ***** turbocharger hooked up to what looks like a 3S-GE - correct ? Ceramic coating, custom radiator, re-built/worked engine ? Don't tell me you also custom fabricated a 4WD setup too cos it would badly need one if not. LSD ? Not gone through all of your thread build but I will :) Personally I would've done that sort of work on something like a Celica - maybe ST162 - ST204 & perhaps looked to making it all-paw grip. The real bonus appears you done it yourself & saved **** loads in the process as well as knowing it's done right from the outset. Congratulations, awesome work. Stealthy Camry that, a wolf in sheep's clothing for sure.

This is why the aftermarket industry is a huge business & cars conducive to swap & change make the most $$. It's fun upgrading & swapping out parts but just as @trentmyer23 has mentioned the mod world comes at a price ;)

@campbeam Those discs look good, assume DBA's ? Good warranty.

The tracking details are great to have although you will find once you have them it may take a LONG time for details on it to update, eg: "Current Status" will show On Order for a long time & the "Planned Production Month" could easily get pushed back. The upside of this to the dealer is that the owner to be won't be harassing them every week for lies, I mean more updates ;)

Personally I wouldn't touch the Camry unless stuff was faulty or due for replacement, ie: dampers. Lowering 1-2" shouldn't be problem also but you will screw the cars ideal geometry up in addition to stiffening the whole enchilada for a bumpier ride. Put nice 18" alloy wheels & your car will look ace, but like I said there are trade-offs. You could possibly swap out the HU for something like http://ca-fi.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=camry&product_id=314 or an Alpine ($$), not sure it's possible on those cars. It's all about how much you wana spend in the end, eg: HU is for starters, you could always go full hog & do amps, subs, splits, acoustic lining & deadening yada yada and this just sound !

@Buddah Kahuna Whatever car you get, be extra certain of the service history by way of books & RO's - a car really well maintained should give you little trouble especially if the issues common to the Aurion were already addressed & repaired. Synthetic oil use throughout it's life is a bonus, must be proved/written on RO's. Be certain of the cars use history & where it was parked, I would invest in either a highly competent mechanic you know of to check it all out including the body or get RACQ to do a thorough inspection. On another note, if the Aurion was RWD the engine would be pointing the right way for blissful servicing & maintenance work ;)

ouch ! haggle a lot.

From memory the stock controller is the guy/gal to hassle ;) Us 86 guys were real keen, we even tracked the boat it was on & it's whereabouts on its way to Oz ! They were hot property back then . . .

Guys, my 86 took 7 months to arrive after order ! You will need access codes for the Tracking system, ask your dealer for them. The tracking system was accurate for me as far as the details are on it. After production things will happen quickly & is usually shipped to Oz with 2-3 weeks depending on state. It may sit on the docks for a week then gets trucked to your dealer pronto. The dealer will be desperate to get it sorted so they can get their $$$. Count on one thing - Toyotas capacity to produce if FAR greater than Subarus :/ Good luck, the CHR appears a nice car.

Yep, battery Aziz ! I know ppl who kill their battery in 1 year due to neglect, car needs to be driven pretty much every day for say 20-30 minutes to charge it sufficiently. If you can get it jump started you will know.

Battery Aziz

I don't think that the move up to 95/98 is necessary, your car should run perfectly on 91. I reckon you either got a bad batch of really el-cheapo fuel or the fuel system has become quite dirty after time and all that sludge. Have you ever had the injectors ultrasonically cleaned ? Trying to run quality fuel to clean the system is obviously easiest. I would try half tanks of the best 98 with either a Toyota D4 injector cleaner or 3-4L of str8 E85. Do this several times & then go back to 91 & test. I'm quite anal about what & where I get my fuel & usually always get the same from the same station.

Instead of the expensive injector cleaner you could also shove 7-8L of E85 to an almost full tank of 98 (E10 ratio) to clean the fuel system, metho is same only 99% concentrate.

I would say typical of a super sticky soft tyre like a Potenza RE, even more so especially given that they're on a large mid-weight sedan with plenty of grunt driving the front wheels. The Potenzas are great for best grip in the wet & not so for longevity. Perhaps go for a harder compound next time, Michelins usually last well. Personally I would rotate F<>Rear every 10Kkms.

More information from OP @Vickie would be helpful to the thread . . . . Everyones fuel economy figures will be different because of their driving style which directly impacts on that. 15-20L/100kms city driving seems rather excessive to me even for an Aurion. ps: Inner city Melbourne bumper to bumper traffic in peak hour traffic is unbearable, never do it, I will never go into city unless I MUST & will avoid whenever possible, would imagine Adelaide a different story though ;)