ZZT86

Sounds like even more torque from that creamy engine, only problem will be you will fry your tyres that much quicker :) Sticky rubber will help with traction but not tyre longevity ;)

Just found on carsales, that interior doesn't look stock, appears leather ?

Really ? 1 owner ? Manual or Auto, colour, pics

2JZ not fit ?

@nickio hey just trying to help bud, but at end of the day you can put on the car whatever wheel & tyre combination you like. Heck some guys in the 86 community go nuts & put a 215 tyre on a 9.5" rim, it's just madness until they get pinged by the popo or it pops off altogether. Personally I see the Camry/Aurion as a comfort/cruiser & would keep the setup close to stock, as DJ has mentioned can work out to be cheaper also.

Above spec rolling dia way out of calibration, would consider 235/45 tyre instead.

How's the interior ? Still auto?

Essentially what you stated above is pretty much it. The body work changed slightly to accomodate the head/tail lights, so cosmetic, suspension tuning given the bigger/heavier engine, interior is similar but overall it's a modded Camry, all done @ Port Melb.

@nickio Your current profile is extremely low, better suited to a Ferrari with supporting suspension setup. I would swap the 19's with the 17's you mention above, you will keep rolling dia very close to stock, same width tyre & gain 32.5mm in comfort profile which you will notice & feel.

There's usually always noticeable improvements in the way they drive, steer & handle. I always noticed the difference in my old Celicas, my dads 2003 ACV36 Sportivo is a completely different kettle of fish compared to my 2001 MCV20 Azura despite only being 2 years apart in age & of similar kms driven. The steering & handling is so agile compared to my MCV20R, I guess also the heavier V6 engine in the MCV wouldn't be doing it any favours.

4 from memory, 1 upstream & 1 down on each bank. You will need a scan tool to pull the DTC & suss out which sensor & reason for code. Code will read something like "DTC P0000 - B1 S1 Reason for code" - so Bank 1 Sensor 1 = sensor before cat on Bank 1 (front 1 think)

@Mguyva so which top mounts did you end up using - factory oem or aftermarket ?

. . . . . I would give anything just to be like hiiiiiiiiimmm . . . . . . Sorry I just had to New gen Camry appears a lovely machine, SX the firmer setup of the lot. You got V6 ? Congrats.

95 is supposedly cleaner/more refined than 91 as well as higher octane giving you the oomph missing when using 91 & improved economy. @thisguy ps: do you have Hybrid or regular SL ? How do you find it? If Hybrid what's economy like ? cheers

Personally I'm not a fan of Hyundai engineering or quality, yet.

Congrats, looks good. Not a colour I see in the MCV20R but nice ;)

Personally don't have any leaks in my MCV20R Azura, perhaps the boot just needs adjusting to close tighter ? I have done this on mine & re-aligned it left to right. There is a breather vent on the LHS, perhaps damaged as a result from previous accident damage, who knows, should be no leaks.

Driving a Toyota 86 in the fog & pouring rain @ the Ring is about as daft as Glen Seton driving a Skyline Turbo @ Bathurst on slicks in the big wet . . . . . very dicy There are so many mods & parts available for the 86 it's not funny, part of Akios grand master plan. ps: although "hachi" ain't that quick in a str8 line, it is around the bends, so much so it surprises many ;)

How many kms has your MCV36 Camry done & has it got a good service history? I spoke to a tech @ Penrite on the phone 1.5 yrs ago re this exact predicament with my 2001 MCV20R with the same engine/tranny which then had 75K kms & a good service history. I asked if there was any reason not to use the ATF FS & he gladly replied absolutely not, he actually recommended it over any of their other fluids. Looking at the KV spec of this oil it's virtually identical to the MHP & the ideal DX III which is a dino as opposed to the man made FS. As a result I have used ATF FS since then & it has been running just fine. My only concern has been the somewhat harsh change from 1st>2nd & vice-versa at times although this may have already been present but don't recall it initially when I acquired the car. I suspect it's either a tranny issue - possibly a valve solenoid or just typical of the A541E breed. Have read that these trannies are sensitive to fluid changes/differences so I plan on doing another complete flush when it gets warmer to the DX-III I have in stock to see if that changes anything. I'm guessing nothing will come of it other than a complete oil change. If you change your tranny fluid I would highly recommend you doing a complete flush plus filter change.

^^ that looks sensational provided it's reliable. I'm all for any tech that increases driver enjoyment & safety, not ruin it.

Try one thing at a time, go for decent test drive & see if it worked so you can pinpoint exactly what caused the noise. I wonder if it could also be the strut top mount/bearing isn't properly torqued/seated ?

So perhaps only when engine cold ? If you can get someone else to start it whilst you listen to the suspect area using a long sturdy screwdriver touching part in question like a starter motor. It's going to be difficult to pinpoint without a helping hand. I hope you have a CTEK charger or similar as you will kill your battery after many repeated starts & little to no drive - leave it overnight to charge if you can. How many kms has it done ?

Mechanical rattle like a CVJ, not sure it could make such a racket at startup though . . . something loose, does it make the racket when you rev it from idle, try revving slowly.

Can vouch for silicone spray curing rubbing/squeak noises. Will pull the front struts out one of these days to investigate.

check switch gear & wiring ?