ZZT86

Waaaaaaaaay too many people have NO idea about roadcraft & learning to read-traffic anticipating things well before they happen. I say too many can only see as far as their nose & are reactive & not proactive in their driving, thinking, (life ?) no-wonder there are so many accidents screwing up the road system !

If both O2 sensors are identical then yeah OK. Be careful with the cleanliness of the sensor & threads both in the header/manifold & the sensor itself which could give you grief of another kind. Your car has done about 200K kms from memory ? I wonder where that sensor is made . . . . good luck.

The O2 sensor will send readings to the ECU which will then adjust fuel delivery accordingly. Either the O2 sensor is bad or the cat itself, suspect sensor - test sensor before replacing. Depending on the device you could actually monitor the ST/LT fuel trims to see how the engine is running - ie: high trims #'s isn't good, ideally should be close to zero reading. If you have cleared the code & it doesn't return you should be fine.

Just wondering if the oil spec is the same for both 4 & 6 cylinder? Personally I use a 5W30 weight of the Nulon semi-synth variety atm, soon to be Nulon full-syth as the 6L bottle was on special late last year for $40 imsmc so I got a few ;) OP might need to go heavier weight oil if engine using some.

Interesting that, on my way home the other day there was a slow coach holding up traffic in the middle lane of a 3 lane fwy, I changed lanes & went past him at the legal speed of course only to find a young dude wearing a hat driving a well kept early 80's Volvo Personally I usually always stick to the left lanes cos no matter how fast you're going in the far right it's never fast enough !

@virginia63 Oh no, not the wiring to the coilpacks ? These cars must be virtually "bombproof" cos there's so many of them still on the roads it's incredible. Your V6 with 170K odd kms has plenty of life left in it.

That one attached to the pump which never gets changed is the strainer filter which is a corse filter not the fine fuel filter we're talking about. With attachments there is the option to drag or select files below the text box you're writing in.

AFAIK only the parts detailed in the graphic screenshot above are in the tank of the MCV20R, pretty sure the fuel filter is mounted just behind the air box under hood. The newer ACV36 Camry's have the whole enchilada in the tank, the filter is a moulded canister which holds all the components shown above together. To remove you would take back seat cushion off & access it via a service hole & dismantle the whole bloody thing being extra careful not to damage the sender/receiver/float unit. Mr "Rouge" probably dropped the fuel pump and/or not connected it all properly & screwed the poor thing. I think you need to send "Mr Rogue" the damage bill :/

Haha - makes me wonder whether the mechanic actually knew what he was doing or if he just took you for a ride. Yep fuel filter is under hood not in tank as on newer cars as a complete serviceable assembly.

Not sure on these cars but the fuel filter could be in the tank Edit: just saw above link 😏👍

@joeallen Which timing belt kit did you get & has it been good so far ? Is it quiet or has it been noisy? Have heard some US belts to be noisy which is not desirable. Cheers.

@joeallen I know about the KYB's dampers. Do they feel any different to stock or just a compatible replacement? Suspect not much difference & that the springs are too soft, either that or my dampers are on their way out. Yes I know about getting parts from the US & a few years ago would have been real dandy as the exchange rate was awesome, not so now. Still a much better deal though & worth looking into. I received just the other day a funnel specifically made for the 1MZ-FE which screws into this engines cam cover with seal to allow for easy oil pouring without spilling - great product & well made too https://www.asttool.com/detail_page.php?from_search=y&tool_number=OFTOY1001&total=41&offset=0&stype=advanced&manf=Toyota,Lexus. I have already sourced & recently stocked up on a new genuine water pump (from Lexus dealer in US) as it will definitely need replacing in about 65K kms when the timing belt gets done, don't have all the tools for that so I will get my m8 mechanic to do it & I can assist if he likes. He has seen many of these cars before. @virginia63 correct me if I'm wrong but you're female ? If so then wow ! You're quite knowledgable about cars & mechanics, good on you. Most girls have no idea nor care, now if only I could find me a woman like that I'd be delighted :)

Great looking / good efficient & reliable transport.

The Azura in the MCV20R was the top of the range although it doesn't look it, but to it's credit it is a 16 year old design. The car is in very good condition, great engine. It doesn't have the two-tone or sunroof extras. Interior has climate control, part leather electric seats yada yada but doesn't have a mist function on wipers ! I purchased it recently after my godfather passed away, he had it since new & hardly used it. It's now my daily. Did Toyota say it was definitely a hydraulic mount ? The biggest difference I'm guessing is improved insulation from engine vibes. The solid one would be harsher. The cars springs & dampers overall are still too soft imho but that's how it is unless changed. I know a few ppl @ Toyota Tech Div who could possibly help if I asked. Let me know. I'll post a pic of my Azura later.

Look same as US model, use a trim removal tool & pry from bottom & rotate up, it's latched in 3 spots at top. The whole enchilada is clipped in.

Wow - hasn't this thread taken off ! @virginia63 It's the update 2001 Azura supposedly with the same firmer suspension setup as the Touring model but it's auto. It's only just ticked over 85K genuine kms. Just took another look at my car, the mount looks identical to yours covered by a soft rubber boot, no locating lug, held in place @ head by a bolt & 3 at foot & indeed has the soft rubber cup/boot at the bottom - hydraulic right ? Odd they say the Touring suspension being sporty/firm as I find it floaty, easily bothered by strong crosswinds & somewhat unsafe for my liking, it's usually OK I guess. Certainly not as firm as my dads ACV36 Sportivo & my 86 is go-cart in comparison. The manual V6 Touring was supposedly quite the "sleeper" in the range with a 5speed manual gearbox was definitely quite handy in a str8 line - it's quick! Not sure how many were sold. You need to be almost 100% certain the part # you have is indeed the correct one before purchasing from the States. The Yanks prefer softer suspension whereas us Aussies like the firmer Euro setup so there may be variations in part, often our cars are typically setup for us only & done locally, I wouldn't be surprised if those mounts were made here. Personally if the car feels similar I would just leave it & call it a day.

Correct - Touring model was firmer setup similar to sportivo.

This topic is of interest to me cos I have a similar 2nd car but a V6 auto yet the mount looks very similar although it not done many kms. The radiator shouldn't have to come out to do a timing belt, I'd say the mechanic is somewhat clueless. I hope they used proper coolant in your car like Toyota LLC & not just str8 water from a tap

@campbeam @trentmeyer23 - some good info/starting point right there. The 2 prices above have different shipping times.

Did the tyre size change ? If not then perhaps tyre pressures are too low - personally I would have about 35psi ea. An aggressive tread design will increase mileage but 1-3L is a big difference. Have someone confirm alignment is OK & within factory spec, too much toe-in @ rear will hurt economy & your tyres.

It's bleeding to death . . . . I've never seen a water pump do that.

Meaning Toyota would replace under warranty. Basically I think what we're all trying to say is that Toyotas in general are a heck of a lot better than most which is why we all drive them, even if the occasional problem arises. If I had plenty moula I would still love a Lexus RCF or the new Supra :)) GTR is still my favourite though even a mint R32

Of those common failures you mentioned above, I wonder how many of those are due to the quality of local manufacturing ? Having said that my 86 is made by Subaru in Japan & has some of those issues too especially the early ones, cam sensors, oil control vavles etc. Sad really given my old gen7celica ran for a mere 250K kms before a VVTLi controller bolt let go and caused some havoc, apart from that and some broken cam bolts (early construction flaw) nothing else went wrong mechanically which I thought was amazing for a new engine design that revved to 8500rpm on a regular basis :)

@trentmeyer23 So would you say that oil sludging in the GSV40 (my favourite of all the Aurions) & subsequent Aurions are a major concern especially if full synthetic oil is used on a regular basis? If so then all I can say is wow - I just find it hard to believe especially given that the Aurions roots trace back to my gen4 Camry with the 1MZ-FE which is running as perfectly as one could wish for - it's damn quick in a str8 line too & smooth. I never owned an Aurion but have driven a few inc Sportivo & thought what a ripper car it is. It's a given cars will have issues, gee the 86 has many but no real mechanical gremlins on mine other than ****ty 2nd/3rd synchros in real cold weather - it's a "characteristic" of the design I'm told :/

@BenDavis How many kms has it done ? Engine sounds pretty sick, sludge is a killer due to poor maintenance ! Ideally both cam covers need to come off plus camshafts & valves, sump & pickup for a thorough clean - hours of work indeed, assuming the bearings aren't already ruined from oil starvation. Sad to see/hear of your problems on what is usually a brilliant motorcar especially if well taken care of.