ZZT86

Very keen to read this as I have a similar problem but on an older 2001 Camry V6 Azura with even less kms. Curious which struts did you use & assume on stock springs ? For me it's more of a knock & I think it's on the front right but only as you described it over short sharp bumps and only after the recent strut change which I'm sure wasn't there before it :/ Odd

The new gen XV70 appears to be the goods on safety - very impressive. Wonder what speed the truck was doing?

I second what campo said - sludge monster due to poor maintenance :/

I confirmed this the other day in my 2001 Azura V6 - 100kmh = 2300rpm & 110kmh = b/w 2500-2550 rpm which means @Hiro was spot on ;) The tacho isn't the easiest thing to read on this vehicle. My car has only just ticked over 105K kms & has new B/S tyres, speed almost dead accurate against GPS within about 2kmh which is strange for any car let alone a Toyota.

Automatic ? If so . . . 10.4L/100km isn't uncommon, depends on driving style/conditions & perhaps tyre pressures ? @100km/h it's about 2250rpm, @ 110km/h I would guess between 2300-2350rpm.

^^ 100% agree but he genuinely did/does get many people who drive their cars for tens of thousands of kms without touching it. The takeaway from this is obvious - look after your Camry & Corollas & they will last a very long time.

My mate mechanic has been saying for decades . . . you can drive a Toyota into the ground & they still go. Have owned a Toyota virtually since day 1 :)

Pull switches out then use a plastic trim removal tool to pry off front bezel. The headunit will be screwed in with 10mm bolts.

Video best, could be normal vacuum noise or injectors, rattle from something loose.

Pretty much all covered as above but personally not a fan of the 4 pot 5S-FE although much easier to service. The 6pot 1MZ-FE is excellent, smooth, quiet & capable of revving out beyond 6K rpm without a care in the world if desired & known to last a very long time.

Toyota part # 83119-8Y008 - these are non replaceable, only from your Toyota dealer.

In response to OP, it really depends on type of driving - if mostly city driving then more fuel will be saved, if mostly fwy then less.

The sooner the money hungry lawmakers in this country roll out the infrastructure required the cleaner our world will be - with Toyotas existing Hydro technology. Whether TMC has a deal with the petro co's or not could be the other consideration holding them back.

^^ The seals in question are those for the camshaft & crankshaft ideally done as a kit with pulleys when your timing belt was done. Your head gasket was replaced? Overheated, cooling issues? Perhaps you meant cam/rocker cover seal ? Yeah an engine mount could be shot - inspect.

Fuse - just guessing. I changed the globes on my dads recently & it's pretty much plugs to the back of the board, unless the pot which is soldered to the board has become loose ? I would re-inspect the board/pot switch if the fuse is OK.

Check also engine mount/s.

My MCV20R has just ticked over 100K kms, was my godfathers who did 75K in 16.5 years. 2 weeks ago I did the cars first timing belt change inc factory water pump, pulleys, seals & both VBelts on my m8 mechanics recommendation based on age alone. I watched him pull the old belt off & quickly picked the oil seals str8 out in 1 piece each, all seals were still soft & rubbery, not hard & brittle like many. The OE belt was not frayed or cracked & looked great to be honest - it goes to prove the quality of the engine & how it was looked after. Presume you have 5S-FE ? Is yours leaking from seals or cam cover ? When was the last time you had the timing belt done & all its seals ? My old gen7 celica with the 2ZZ-GE did more than 300K kms on my watch in 13 years before I reluctantly sold it, it was well looked after with very regular oil changes & I always used Helix HX7 10W30 semi-synth & it never leaked a drop of oil anywhere anytime & despite the hi-revving nature of the engine, it never used any oil either. Essentially my point is . . . if you look after your Toyota fair chance it it will last . . . a very long time :)

Depends on condition & mileage of engine, no reason not to use full synthetic if engine is in great condition & has low kms. My MCV20R Camry with the 1MZ-FE requires 5W30 & I use the full synthetic, car OCI is now approaching 15K kms & hasn't used a drop of oil & is still a light golden colour.

As a general rule, always use the grade/weight of oil recommended by the manufacturer as the engine has been designed to use it, ie: Toyota manual states 0W20 for the 86's FA20 which has tight tolerances & should use this grade oil.

Preventing oil from degradation & making it go the distance is very dependent on how the car is treated & driven. Lots of short trips will invite fuel & water dilution which will acidify & slowly destroy the oils additives pack. Performing a UOA can prove the state of an oil. This is why it's important to get the oil "hot" to help burn off these unwanted contaminants. After time the additives will become depleted after which the engine becomes a sitting duck ! I now only use Full Synthetic oils in my cars, they're stronger, cleaner & stay in grade for longer but I wouldn't take it beyond my Camrys 15K km service interval, just my personal preference.

I get the distinct impression journos are often "bought" to comment in reviews. As Ronald above stated, the SL appears to be the slush version so the suspension tune would obviously be set accordingly, the "Sportivo" - ahem SX version would be the best bet for the V6, it would be my choice if I was in line for a new car. I too am confused by their economy & resale ratings. To me both would score highly especially the economy given the size/weight of the car powered by a 3.5L V6, I like !

Thanks John, My Camry Azura is a nice with very low kms but your Aurion is much nicer & far more advanced too. I would love an Aurion for a daily but I'm unwilling to spend to get one especially considering I have a weekend toy that's an 86 :/ Enjoy your Aurion as they are a rippa car.

Could be age related, the newer the car the stiffer the ride but a very subjective issue. Having said that 3 weeks ago I replaced the struts complete on my 2001 Camry V6 for std height King Springs & Sachs dampers & although firmer than what it was the dampers are now more effective soaking up most of the roads harshness & find it more comfortable than the old stock setup. Would honestly prefer an even firmer setup but I'm happy with it now. I'll post a write-up of parts used & tips in the next few weeks :)

Just get a colour that's close which is what I did and it turned out fine as the headlining is separated by plastic trim panels & the rest. I got mine from AFD - http://www.afdaustralia.com.au/headlining/ Can also look at http://vyfab.com/product-category/velour/headlining/ or http://www.daleys.com.au/ Adhesive - https://www.autobarn.com.au/permatex-px-bs-hdlnr-adh-16-75-oz-ae-27828 I also slathered the metal roof with 12mm Acoustic Liner foam which is also an insulator to help reduce heat. Finished job came up a treat.

I never had an issue with fog lights on during the night or day regardless of weather conditions or law unless the foggies were actually driving lights like those on a VT SS commodore - they were just too damn bright to be foggies. DRL's on the other hand are meant to be on ALL the time & will either dim or switch off completely when the headlights are switched on. Yep they're bright, perhaps as bright as a foggy, they're there for a reason & it's called SAFETY, should have been made mandatory fitment & law decades ago as many people appear to be colour blind regardless of conditions &/or some colours tend to blend with the surroundings - with DRL's you stand out ! Hooray for DRL's :)