ZZT86

Your owners manual will specify the spec, afaik it's 5W30 for the 2GR-FE & you'd get the latest version being SN GF5. 40 weight is OK I guess cos you live in banana country ;)

Here's the rule as it applies in Vic, presume same elsewhere . . . so if the left lanes are congested no-one in the RH lane needs to move ! If not congested then the keep left rule applies. The way I see it is that most people do not know the rule & think they have every right to hog the right lane regardless of the law & the actual speed limit. This is why I have dash cams front & rear with onboard GPS & I keep the video on external hard drives for at least 6 months - it's my insurance policy 😉

The thing is most people don't actually know the rule - in the "arctic state" at least the law states that you do not need to keep left on a multi lane road if the limit is 80km/h or less or if the other lanes are congested on a fwy. For me it's too stressful so I just stay in the middle or left lane. There's also confusion over divided lanes that merge into one lane with & without dashed line markings - there are two rules for those also. Laws can be so dumb sometimes.

@AurionX2 & @campbeam Much appreciate the encouragement guys ;) Although I've only had my Aurion a few months with 35K kms, I will definitely consider doing this myself when it gets to about 50K kms. Big fan of the Penrite oils too. I will also consider getting an OBD scanner despite having access to my mate mechanics. Cheers all 👍

I get what Ash is saying as I usually do the same however without a scan gauge proving what the exact AT temp is has the potential for an expensive disaster. I also prefer to do a flush rather that drain & refill, that part of it is pretty easy.

Wouldn't it be much easier if one had all the correct SST's as in this clip ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNcecuGzTDg I acquired my late model GSV50R recently & I'm inclined to just handball this one over to my local Toyota dealer . . . .

IMO - if you use Full Synthetic oil & drive 30 min most of the time your usual OCI of 15K kms is fine, if you're pedantic like me & you get your oil at a great price then every 7.5K kms. If you do mostly short trips of 5-15 min then best to use Full Synthetic and OCI of 7.5K kms or less &/or at least twice a year.

Not ever experienced such but know exactly what you're talking about. Clean it up good & apply a fair amount of silicone - fill up the recess over the bolt well & over the console, let it dry over a day or two & see how it fares. Otherwise experiment with large washers under the bolt wide enough to grab/hold onto the console to help fix it down, or re-weld the plastic if you have it, or get another donor console from a wrecker.

A complete assembly is next to impossible to find & buy for such an old car. What is the warranty like on the Repco parts? If 3 years/60K kms - get them. My old 2001 Azura I replaced the struts with Sachs which were great after I realised some of the other components were rooted. I also threw on the standard ride height King springs which were too firm for my liking but great on a smooth road. KYB would be my recommendation for struts, about 10% firmer than stock which were always too damn soft anyhow. If your original springs are still fine I would just re-build them with new genuine strut top mounts, boots etc - very important that they're the genuine tops & bearings otherwise you may get a knocking noise.

Do you have the code for the audio ? Do you have the Owners manual ?

Are you talking about the Primacy 4 ? What size are they ? I suspect you're talking about excessive sidewall movement? A very soft sidewall will do what you're describing. I put BS Ecopia EP300 on my old car & it totally destroyed the cars ride & handling - handled like a wet teabag.

Vijith555 's post May 3 2018 makes plenty of sense, explaining that the VVTi controller & locking pin vitally depend on correct oil pressure & that oil viscosity is crucial for this system to work properly, even worse if there's oil sludge. I'm currently looking to purchase a 50 series Aurion only 3 years old with 30K kms, services by the book with Toyota which states the use of 10W30 on first 3 services & last one done a few months ago using 5W/30 weight oil. The other day on cold start the VVTi rattle occurred for 1-2 second's 2 seconds after start/running. What I also noticed on RO Service receipts was that the 10W30 was "VVTi specific - Genuine Toyota Oil" & the 5W30 to be generic type oil ! Either this is one helluva picky system that favours one oil over another or the controller is still a reliability issue on these cars. PS: More Info: I ended up getting that Aurion, has never made rattle noise on start up, have changed to Nulon 5W30 F/Synth & it still works faultlessly. Peeping through the oil filler cap I can see the engine is, as you'd expect, like new. So the lighter grade oil is no different to the heavier grade on these 50 series cars for noise.

Don't let this happen to you ! VVTi Controller failure from a 2ZZ-GE motor. The bolts work their way loose & rattle noise begins, the controller cover starts to rattle, then the bolts break & cause damage, potentially catastrophic, especially when chains are involved. Lucky for me the missing bolts sheared off in bits & landed away from the chain drive & didn't get stuck anywhere. It punched a hole in the rocker/cam cover & that's it ! This high revving engine had done approx 250K kms when the controller failed. ps: note how clean the engine is :))

Rocketbunny Celica :) What's under the bonnet ?

"Guest" ? Toyota have gone mad, we're not guests, we're customers that make them lots of $$$$ . . . This is the problem with oil coolers, if you get a leak & then low oil pressure, you may as well kiss your engine goodbye. I wonder if this applies to all 2GR-FE motors or only those early model ones ?

2013 car ? How many kms done ?

The Aurion is already quite the fire cracker so I'd be inclined not to touch it either 😉

A detailers brush & a vacuum cleaner 😉

Odd, I would throw in 0.5-1L of Metho in tank say every 6 months. This will not only 'swallow' up all the water that might get accumulated in there but also give the fuel system a good clean. ps: get your fuel from another reputable station, preferably Premium 95, we're all heading towards it anyhow, might as well get used to it.

Wow !

A good mechanic is sometimes worth his weight in gold - almost. Well done.

Great that you persevered with this, odd that Techstream can't see the ABS module. Pretty sure my m8 mechanics scanner can see the whole enchilada on my MCV20R Camry (gen4) including Airbags yada yada. Where is that module located ? Great also that Techstream works on WINX - which version TS ? Cheers 😉

Strut top mounts or sway links ?

That's dumb, all cars should have safety as standard esp blind spot monitoring. Heads up could also be considered a safety feature really, the ventilated seats with memory are a luxury. I'll tell you what - I recently drove a Kia Cerato & all I can say is that I was pleasantly surprised just how good a car it is. Suspension is extremely well sorted - first class really, brakes were great, engine ability/smoothness & economy were good. Interior was average as it was a base model but hey - it's cheap plus that 7 year warranty. Well worth a look. Toyota is no longer alone, this from a life long Toyota fan & owner.

SX V6 would be the most entertaining & smoothest but also easiest to lose your license on 😕 What extra safety features does the SL have over the SX? Would have thought exactly the same.