ZZT86

The siren long beeeps but doesn't short beep ? The system sounds like it's working, you sure you have adjusted all the controls on the head unit correctly & the loudness is adjusted high enough to hear the chirping ? See attached. Might the car still under warranty ? Doors_No_Answer_Back.pdf GSV50R_Doors.pdf Wireless_Doorlock_Buzzer.pdf

Stephen, it's strange that the trip computer is showing you a big range difference from PULP95 vs PULP98, that's very odd. Ashley, I've seen those clips before & I kinda agree & disagree with them. The problem with our fuels in this country is that the actual octane level or RON is often lower than what it should be, ie: 91RON might test as 89-90, so your engine tuned for 91 will not produce the factory power it's supposed to. As soon as you put in 95 then this is corrected & the missing power is perceived as extra grunt ! The other problem with fuel is detonation. Higher octane fuels are less prone to knock where the ecu isn't slowing you down by pulling back timing to protect itself from long term engine damage. The higher octane delivers less knock & better performance, it's also a lot cleaner. It will be made mandatory in the near future. Obviously car's tuned for 98 should use 98 or higher. ps: I have an ***** just like Niki Lauda but no-one would believe me ;)

I further the above comments on dealers changing oils on some cars because it suits them but still within the cars book guidelines. Before buying my GSV50R Aurion I quizzed the selling & servicing dealer about their sudden change from 10W30 in the 1st three services to 5W30 in the last one & they freely admitted to it that it suited their current range of cars requirements which doesn't at all surprise me. They will buy in bulk hundreds of litres of oil at one time. @Chris H Thanks Chris, the reason I asked is based on climate. If you were in a hotter climate like on the Gold Coast or even further north then the heavier 15W40 would be just about perfect, but Sydney isn't all that different to arctic Melbourne & still think it's a little too heavy for a GSV50R Aurion but OK for the current OCI. Certainly Ash makes a great point about differentiating the 2 model series in that there are differences in the VVT controller from 40 to 50 series cars to avoid that dreaded "tap tap" tapping noise that was prevalent in the older cars.

I'm a little confused, are you trusting/using the cars trip computer figures or conducting your own fuel economy by filling tank taking note of fuel qty pumped noted on docket, burning the fuel then refilling tank & doing the math on fuel used ? I know that with my previous cars the trip computer was never very accurate & always trusted my own tests instead. Another thing to note is that the cars ECU will take some time usually a few hundred kms to adjust the fuel trims, smarter cars adjust fairly quickly. Higher octane should give you better everything, imo.

Last time I drove it 6.5 years ago sold to my neighbor. Saw it on the road about 2 months ago in the same condition ;)

Don't wana hijack the thread but I loved my celica so much I really had to reason to replace it until the 86 came along.

Lotus make a great sportscar, using great & reliable brand T engines, really love the sequential box.

@Chris H whereabouts you live ? The 15 grade little heavy, may mess with the operation of the VVT controller.

Ironically enough the celica always used the same Shell Helix HX7 10W30 😉 Then again it didn't matter a great deal with the 5K km OCI, was always well driven & allowed to get normally hot. The ZZT celica was a rippa car.

You guys will appreciate this clip I came across the other day. It's our beloved 2GR & as you'd expect of an engine with a big blower on top it looks to have a catch can fitted also, next to the coolant overflow bottle which appears to be vented to air 😉

You may recall Ashley me pestering & asking you a few questions about this car before I bought it to be sure but one of the main reasons for wanting it more was because of how well it was looked after by the original owners, themselves petrol heads & ex Toyota staff. It never did the kms & so was serviced by the book @ every 9 months @ the selling dealer on the dot. That's super rare of people to do that, most are tight ****s always wanting to stretch it out as much as possible to save a $$. I still like the idea of the catch can though, it's a filter for the air the engines re-breathes & so I'm with you on that. I also like the Ryco unit very much, I'll keep an eye on it.

Something inside me head is itching to say it "Amsoil Signature Synthetic" - there I said it, cos I know plenty yanks out there love this oil & for good reason - it's a bloody oil. Anyway aside from this the bloke make the perfect point of regular maintenance & that whatever the manufacturer recommends is the absolute minimum one should do. The more servicing you do the cleaner the engine will be & the longer it will last - pure & simple. Many many moons ago when I got my brand spanking new gen7 celica I asked my man @ Toyota himself a master tech how often I should change the oil & what with - he said to use the recommended oil weight being 10W30 then semi-synthetic, use the same oil every time & do it every 5000kms. The celica had a fault towards the end of my 13 year ownership & the VVT controller bolts let go, the attached picture shows how clean the engine was then with about 250-275K kms, I think the picture will speak volumes for how I took care of it. The controller & cam cover was replaced & the engine & car was put back into service. Happy days.

Problem with ProVent is no capacity to store catchment whereas the Ryco has 310ml otherwise a very similar design. Big problem with the Ryco is its size of 128x240mm which makes it difficult to place & access. Looks like Ash has positioned it in the best spot. Ryco kit model has hose reducers, smallest OD appears 0.5inch which is near enough to the 9mm on the Aurion or just try find some plastic reducers elsewhere to suit. By the way, I just checked both breathers from the cam covers on my Aurion with about 41K kms, I checked using torch & a few cotton buds & it's virtually clean enough to eat your dinner off it with a very minor spot of colour change. It really is a tight fit this 2GR, I'm missing the simplicity & space afforded by the old 1MZ already :|

Pretty dumb for a RAV if that's the case. Perhaps the OP should have checked this before signing, I would have had the dealer throw them in as a sale sweetener.

It appears to be an universal type & the latest generation model they have is RCC351 or the Kit which is RCC351K (same with extras which may be useful). I have not studied it yet, I have not even looked at my PCV system to see if it needs one but the Ryco does look like a really nice setup. Biggest drawback is the cost of the filter, still waiting on an answer from SB about that.

Do you have an audio clip ?

I was poking around to see what auto specials were about today & look what I found ? https://www.rycofilters.com.au/Crankcase_CatchCan Big problem appears the filter is damn expensive, I have emailed SparesBox to ask if they're going to stock it & how much, currently best temporary price is @ Autobarn for $70 on special. Looks like a good system & Aussie engineered. Only other alternatives are a Universal Radium CC or a Saikou Michi which may also have a suitable unit for the 2GR-FE.

ps: Nolathane or SuperPro, same thing different colour imo.

Yeah my Camry already came with the Nolathane & in my experience the bushes that get worked the hardest like the front inner rear LCA cop a pounding & were pretty noisy when I got the car & I was constantly spraying it with silicone lube to keep them quiet. Poly bushes like sway bars & trailing arms are OK there but always expect extra harshness cos they're harder, will transmit more vibration & noise not normally there. In reality they're a performance part. People I know who have changed out lots of bushes in there 86/BRZ to poly have often gone back as it was too hard & noisy, not ideal for a daily road car. Rubber may not last as long but it's usually many years before it needs changing out & until then you're at peace in your comfy/cosy Camry/Aurion. Now if you want to turn your ride into a Super Tourer then that's a different matter.

I had Nolathane on my old MCV20R Camry front rear inner LCA bushes, a little noisy squeak squeak. My mate mechanic also had same on his F150 Ambo & he swears he'll never do them again, too firm & they can break apart. He recommends just going for the OEM rubber if available which is what I would do. ps: if you have a track car then you go all out Poly bushes.

Ash, I just realised you used LiquiMoly & I reckon it has screwed you. That stuff will make the cylinders so slippy that the end result will be excess oil consumption through the rings & perhaps increased blow-by. I tried the same thing on my old 7thgen Celica about 8 years ago & that's exactly what I got. It was dumb of me for trying it, the engine was fine never used a drop & after it started using about 250ml of oil every 5K kms or so. The harder you drive it the more it will use. I also think sludge/PCV system is still your main concern which is why I suggested pulling the front cam cover off at least to inspect the situation at hand. I know it's a pita cos it's a fwd V6 to do the whole job but it might be the only way. At least the front cover will give you an idea of just how bad. About a year ago me & a mate went to Philip Island for a track day - just happy laps of the circuit for the whole day. We were both out on the first session for the morning, very cool day, after 20 min my Hachi ran perfectly, hardly a drop of oil used, his is a brand new VF seriesII SS Redline & there was oil EVERYWHERE ! After discussing with other SS owners it was put down to massive blow-by forcing oil to the intake completely soaking the air filter spraying oil all over the engine bay. There was never any smoke from his exhaust on track as I followed & passed him. Most SS owners there had catch-cans. ps: the Subaru UEC may be potent enough to wash & help scrub the cylinders/rings of that stuff if you use enough of it, assuming you don't have a sludge problem.

You do know that "crappa" or crapper is slang for toilet ?

Sounds like time to remove the cam covers for a proper inspection & cleanout 😉

@TommyM Dude, I think I speak for all of us but personally I wasn’t trying to be smart, light your short fuse or make fun of your comments. I agree with you 100% on pretty much everything you have contributed to the forum thus far. I get you’re a car enthusiast just like the rest of us & that’s great. My WOT/crappa comment was opportunistic & merely made in light of the Stage 4 restrictions that most of Melbournes 5.5 million people have to endure for another 4 weeks. I presume your’e a Melbournian due to your previous comments about lockdown. That means unless you’re one of the lucky few who still have F/T employment, it would be next to impossible to do a WOT properly due to the 5km radius from home restriction. I’ve been stood down as of the beginning of April, last week I worked 5 hours total, every week is almost the same, my Aurion got its first small drive today in more than a week on my way to Coles to top-up on some specials. I stay home as much as possible to avoid getting the super dreaded lurgy. You get the picture. I apologise if you took it the wrong way, I guarantee you that was simply not the intention.

The only WOT I'll be doing is in the crappa :| I concur with the WOT theory though.