ZZT86

The 2GR-FE doesn't have D4S like the 2GR-FSE & so it's just ported which is not a bad thing 😉 Some of the Lexus motors like on the GS are Direct Injection only which needs good attention to prevent that going south. The D4S is an ingenious system & a royal pita to tune so I'm told due to the complexities of the 2 systems working side by side & overlapping. The 86/BRZ have D4S.

The alternative would be to strip the motor top & bottom, washing yada yada . . .

Although I have never tried the Nextzett Colourtec I wouldn't hesitate recommending their products as top shelf stuff. I currently have plenty of CarPro Iron XLS which I have used for body decontamination prior to coating & it works fine. I just love watching it all turn purple 🙂

Ashley, please keep us posted as to how much oil your catch-can is trapping as I'm curious, generally NA port injected cars don't need them. Direct Injection & Forced Induction cars are a must imo. I seriously considered a CC for my Hachi a few years ago, did the research, talking to Saikou Michi & Radium then I realised there was no oil staining on the intake from the PCV line & called it a day. Really depends on how much blow by is coming from those rings. Yet another preventative maintenance tip is what I commonly do on Hachis boxer engine is UEC or Upper Engine Cleaner which I do from time to time. I plan on doing this on the Aurion also as it gets in there & disolves any build up crud & burns it up. Did it on my 1MZ & it worked.

I don't think there's anything to worry about but the usual 2 man job unless you have vacuum system & can do one man or you have speedbleeders. I'm not sure on the 1MZ but with the Aurion there appears to be an ABS reset function, I would need to plug in my scan gauge onto car & confirm though. Anyhow a good mechanic will know what to do.

Ash so much mucking around, how long has it been when you first started flushing & have you kept a diary of the cost ? I envy you for being able to do 3K kms 😕 Have fun in sunny, warm QLD.

Of all the Toyotas I've owned & driven none used oil that I've noticed unless it had more than 300K kms on it & it was a highly strung 2ZZ or you drove the wheels off it. My old Azura 1MZ didn't drink a drop & neither does my Aurion. The Hachi is not a real Toyota & therefore uses a very small amount but nowhere near the factory maximum allowance of 1L/1Kms. If you drive an Audi or some ***** heap like that then you're to expect that amount or more ;)

An experienced Toyota tech I know did say to me some months ago that Aurions do suffer from DTV or Disc Thickness Variation. After I get my tyres fitted, I'll remove the fronts discs to make sure the hub is squeaky clean & the disc mount surface is same before getting mine machined cos they're buggered. I'll change out the pads also if there's too much variation there. I can't say I've ever experienced a problem like this on all the Toyotas I've owned & driven over the years.

I've decided that I'll be putting Michelin PS4 on me car. Was going to do this about a week ago until I found out that they're out of stock in my size so I'm going to have to wait 6-8 weeks for them 😐 No problem, I'm hardly driving atm anyways . . .

Regarding engine oil: the takeaway is you MUST use what is designed for your engine which will be noted in your owners manual for your city/region.

GSIC - Global Service Information Center.pdfGSIC - Global Service Information Center.pdf

good ol' Scotty Kilmer . . .

@Tony Prodigy no wonder you took all day, so many enjoyable pics & so much detailing. The brakes & wheels came up virtually new, lovely stuff. Tell us what the pads are like ?

@TommyM 1MZ-FE shouldn't use a drop of oil unless there's issues with it & you still haven't answered the Q about your type of driving/mileage 😉 Be sure to post them pics when you're done. I can already see the interior looks pretty darn good, all leather too.

The Aurion is peaky in it's torque/power delivery, typical Toyota. Nothing a S/C wouldn't fix 😉 I would say the Aurion has a really good balance b/w torque & lots of top end power/speed.

@TommyM - mate all this talk about your Avalon & no pics - cough up, we want to see this glorious car of yours 😉 Did see the brochure, very nice interior/dash layout that reminds me of olden day Supras. The old Toyota’s had nicer softer leather that’s for sure. Nowadays you gotta fork out big $$ for Toyota/Lexus leather that soft. The new Avalon in the US is a very smart & beautiful looking car, the chick standing next to it is pretty hot also. The Avalon has cleaner/less complicated sheetmetal & a sharp clean front end design whereas they’ve overdone it with the current Camry, full of odd shapes & creases going in every which direction, imo. Tom, I’m curious to know what sort of driving you do in your Avalon & how often ? I know the 1MZ-FE well as it was fitted to my old MCV20R Azura. Yes they can get warm but still no cause for alarm especially if its driven properly & within the “normal driving” guidelines. The OCI in those engines is every 15K km. The 7.5K km interval is for “severe operating conditions” & so there’s no requirement to have your car serviced that often. Now my understanding is that if you constantly do or only drive short distances @ slow speeds with lots of stop/start/idle time & the engine/oil never gets a chance to get to normal hot operating temps for at least 10-15min then your OCI should be 7.5K km minimum. If you’re like me & let the engine warm up carefully when cold & gives it 15 minutes for the oil to get to normal hot temps then does plenty easy fwy driving for at least another 15 minutes then your OCI should be 15K km. The leading cause of sludge buildup is due to owner/driver behaviour, attitude & neglect as well as poor/lack of the appropriate maintenance. If you mostly use your car normally with good drive times & distance covered allowing the engine & oil to get normally hot then there’s no reason why the oil won’t last 15K km, especially if it’s a Full Synthetic. Under these normal driving conditions you will find about a 50% depletion of the oils TBN levels by the time 15K km is up & is therefore capable for going even further if desired. A 5W30 grade oil is just fine for these engines (even the 2GR) as it was designed for, especially in arctic Melbourne. Full Synthetic is obviously the best for its ability to withstand the extremes & it’s ability to “stay in grade”. The lighter grade will give you higher oil pressures, better heat dissipation, protection, performance & fuel economy. The heavier grade will do the opposite. If your engine is partially worn & using some oil &/or you live in a much warmer climate, ie: Brisbane or drive your car harshly then yeah the higher grade will suit. Having said all that & because I’m a fusspot just like a lot of you guys & I do my own maintenance, I want the engine in my cars to last a very long time which is why I do 7.5K km OCI using a quality Full Synthetic oil. My HachiRoku for example has been using the best 0W20 since early 2013 (TGMO) as it was designed for & yes it is like water. And after many of me own UOA tests have proved it’s a ripper oil, very high performance, stays in grade, recovers quickly, even with the sole use of E85. Oil technology has never been better with great thanks to the environment. ps: where did you see that the Kluger is designed to use dino 20W50 ? As far as I can tell it’s 5W30, it is a 2GR after all.

Ashley, that Escort is now in desperate need of an oil change after almost 40min of torture, and a complete teardown as I reckon he's killed almost all of its life. Who would've thought all those 911's be taken uphill by a little ol' Escort & then lap some. Clearly all the other folk weren't trying. My little Hachi is similar, such a little giant killer, most people just don't realise how good it is 🙂 Tony, that info is provided with pleasure. I recently acquired same gen car so it'll help me out too although a fuel filter replacement is still some years away. I always research the Repair/Service Manual for correct procedures & suss out the exact parts required from multiple sites whenever I do servicing or repairs to a new car I'm not familiar with like this Aurion GSV50R. I want to know for sure I'm doing it properly & not taking any unnecessary risks to myself or the car. These things are too damn expensive to screw up. I take my time & enjoy the work too. PartSouq is actually a rippa site, even lists Aussie cars virtually up to the minute & lists all the parts on the vehicle. I usually cross reference my info with my local dealer & get his best price as I prefer to buy from him direct for quick turnaround & usually very competitive prices, but lately its all gone pear shaped. I'm always looking for the best price & prefer to buy genuine especially on a newish car. That Yaris looks like fun, but it's so small & wonder of its safety credentials. It would scare me to drive it amongst todays traffic.

Much appreciated guys, the worst is not being allowed to go for a drive - I hate that. Tony that Wesfil part looks ace, infact it looks the same as the OEM part attached. Where is the Wesfil part made ? When I spoke to Ryco earlier today they told me that one of the reasons for not making the part could be as it's a part of a complex module & she quoted their OEM part # which I can now see as a kit (part 77020-06411) which is what you speak of above, it's not $1600 though . . . . see attached. I can maybe see why they're highly priced, it's a multi-part contraption unlike the 1 piece canisters of old. I'm hoping to get some more info 2moro from another local dealer, stay tuned.

Sorry I've been lazy lately, corona, stood down, getting half my normal wage, freezing dull grey Melbourne weather, can't go here or there, no gym, too cold to even ride a bike - miserable stuff really. Anyhow I'm amazed at several things going on here. One is that @Tony Prodigy is right. I rang several dealers & they're all quoting me the same huge retail price of $226.90 for the fuel filter, part # 77024-33180 which supersedes # 77024-06280 for the GSV50R-JET***. My dealer who I've know for years quoted me $40 less but it's still a big price compared to what they have been in the past for me doing Celicas & Camrys at about $60-80 a pop & they're all much of a muchness. They're an intank canister which holds the whole enchilada together & is relatively str8 forward to replace. Whats more unbelievable is that it's cheap compared to current design RAVs & Corollas I'm told ! Partsouq lists that # for $124 shipped & Amayama will not deliver to AUST which looks like an imposed restriction for that part type. There could very well be some sort of design/manufacturing restriction for these filters preventing others form copying it, I don't know. Then there's Wesfil/Cooper which maybe the Ryco part, I haven't looked into it yet. Strange also is that its not even a direct injection motor, it's virtually identical to the GSV40R. I just spoke to Ryco regarding their omission for a fuel filter. I'm told it could be 1 of 3 reasons for it - patent, can't produce to set standard (don't believe that) or part of a complex module. I'm waiting for their development team to get back to me with an exact & definitive answer which could be a week away, they will also let me know if the filter is in the pipeline for manufacturing & retail sale 😐 I'm suspecting it's the same fuel filter for the Kluger, Lexus ES & Camry in other markets with the same 2GR-FE motor so it would be worth their while to make.

It is odd that Ryco don't list it especially given the time Aurion has been around. Mate honestly I would just go genuine which we know is a quality part & it concerns your fuel. Shop around, you may get a good price.

Did Ryco list a part # for the fuel filter to begin with ? It's not listed on their website. I always go by the manufacturers website as the retailer can so easily get it wrong. I feel your pain having to rebuild & install the filter assembly.

Which car/van ? Checking the wiring to the globe, wiggle it about WITH the headlamps on.

Mate - what are they like ? Have they become noisy with time ? Have they lost some of their grip ? Cheers

If your engine isn't burning/using any oil & never needs topping up I would continue using 5W30, unless you're constantly flogging it. Just my 2cents . . .

1MZ-FE are commonly reported by many in the US doing an easy 500K kms before engine rebuild or attention IF properly looked after, ie: religious OCI from the very beginning. The 2GR-FE is looking like the new darling in the Toyota engine fleet & many are saying will do same if not better. IMO these engines are bombproof if well looked after, I'm a big fan of both.