Novicebutnice

What is equally frustrating is that they finally give the 2.5L a power boost (155 KW or so up from 135 KW but with 95 octane min), but have it only available in the base model, Because people who buy an SX Camry are really after a Hybrid only option ......

I hate electrical gremlins...

Based on information that the problem doesn't seem to be only with the remote, but also the button in the car, I would say that the door lock actuators are more than likely becoming weak/ failing, or in need or lubrication (no idea if that is even possible) My 2005 Corolla sedan developed the same issue (it started off with hearing a strange noise when locking the doors intermittently), followed by the door not locking/unlocking electronically (originally rear left, then after a few years the drivers door) I removed the door trim (after it stopped locking/unlocking electronically) and took one look at what was needed to access the door lock actuator assembly, and then put the door trim back on and decided to just live with it (I traded the car in a couple years ago).

At Supercheap Menai.. just saying 😎

Hi Helen, It's hard to diagnose issues without video/ audio of the problem. My first guess would be to check the wheel weights if you have alloy wheels, some cars have these located on the inside section, where if they come a bit loose, they have the potential to hit the brake calipers. If when the mechanic did the brakes they noticed these starting to detach (they are stuck on with for want of a better word double sided tape), they may have pushed these back on, but it may be starting to detach again. But you may have to take this to a local mechanic (unless someone knows of any common issues/ have had a similar issue in the past) to properly diagnose the issue (if it isn't wheel weights) Regards Steve

I took my car in for a service back in December. I mentioned the issue, as well as what it was that I was feeling. And though the problem is now fixed I am still as confused as ever. I'm a former car mechanic, I can feel what the car is doing etc. I have felt vibrations caused by front rotor issues through the steering wheel etc. With my car, as in my OP the vibration was coming through the pedal (little to nothing through the steering wheel), and as the temps increased (going down a long downhill, or even if braking at speed), a noticeable and disturbing shudder from the rear. Yet after the front rotors were machined the problem is now gone. They removed all 4 rotors and checked for run out, and only the front had any run out. The only other possibility is that the rear rotors were not seated properly, and when they removed and refitted, they re-seated flush to the hub. Did you end up doing your brakes?

If my car didn't have capped price services, I would prefer to take it to my own mechanic (or do it myself) Dealerships have many technicians, who service lots of cars. They never meet you, they don't know you, and as a result their care factor is quite low. For example my local dealer has no idea where the full mark is on my dipstick (always over filled), perhaps it confuses them using the oil that I supply.... And that's when cold, let alone when the engine is warmed up (as per the owners manual) Don't get me wrong, I allow some tolerance, by seriously circa 1 cm over is not within tolerance....

I know the OP's original comment has already been answered, but I still want to throw my 5 cents in :-) - If you have capped price servicing, get your servicing done at a trusted Toyota dealership The capped price includes everything that is a servicing requirement (like brake fluid, engine air filter, cabin filter etc), excluding wear and tear like brakes - If you want to do a 6 monthly oil change (which I would recommend, I'll go into below as to why), I would ask a local mechanic that you trust to do it, and only do the oil and filter (use a genuine filter and keep the receipt for both the filter and the service). The reason I would recommend doing the oil change every 6 months, is that the dealership / "bob the mechanic" only use semi-synthetic engine oil. A semi-synthetic will really struggle to remain in spec for 12 months and 15,000 km before it starts to break down (and starts to form "sludge" which builds up over years causing big problems) Whereas a quality full synthetic should make it to the 12 months 15,000 km mark They should have upsold you full Synthetic engine oil, and not an "engine flush" (why sell a product to fix a problem when you can prevent it from occurring....) Before I took my 2017 RZ Camry in for it's first service I saw this tv ad on youtube (I did search for it to post a link, but was unable to find it again) The ad showed that Toyota USA was using Mobil 1 full synthetic oils (which would allow for that service interval which is 15,000 or 9 months), Yet my local Toyota dealership uses a semi-synthetic (I asked), with the same servicing regime...... Given the engine sludge issues and the lawsuits that occurred in the US, and the subsequent switch to a full synthetic, it would be wise to follow suite. Which is why even though I have capped price servicing, I have supplied my own engine oil (full synthetic) for every service since new (first oil change at 13,000km) And since I'm OTT I even do in between oil and filter changes... I did regular (every 6 months or so) oil changes on my last car (05 Corolla) switching over to full synthetic for most of it (from memory after 30,000 km or so), and when I got rid of it after nearly 13 years and circa 140,000 km, when you took the oil cap off and looked inside, it looked brand new (literally like it just came out of the factory), no staining let alone any sludge. The car also didn't use a drop of oil, and the fuel economy was unchanged since new. All the best with your still new car :-)

Def agreed, regular oil changes (with good quality oil) Spend a little more now, to save a whole heap later :-)

Check to see if your satnav unit has a micro SD/ SD card Either way I would swing past your local Toyota dealer and ask them how much they charge to do an update. Mine cost from memory about $100 (I honestly can' remember) for my 2017 Camry It was more expensive than just buying a separate satnav that hangs off your windscreen (that usually comes with lifetime map updates) But I prefer the in dash, especially the bigger screen (which I why I'll do mine every 3 years or so) Good luck, and let us know how you go :-)

What's funny is that when I was a mechanic and went to a non-Toyota brand "school day" They talked about how they tried timing belts (since they were a newer idea than timing chains) But the timing belts didn't deliver any real advantages and had several disadvantages, so they were going back to timing chains... So I guess it's good to try new ideas, but sometimes they don't work out.

In short for the most part, If the front of the Engine doesn't have plastic covers then it has a timing chain. If the front of the engine does have plastic covers that are easily removable, than it has a timing belt.

Whilst I don't for a second doubt the stupidity of the 70% down claim As a former car mechanic I know that a car can have "weak spark" which is more noticeable under load. So whilst a coil pack either works or it doesn't in some respects, if a car is for example "pinging" under load I would check the coil packs since "under load" is when "weak spark" can occur. Just my 5 cents.

Try this link my friend, I hope that this can lead you to your first love :-) https://secure.carhistory.com.au/checkout?cc=&frm=CH&vin=6T164AE9309683100&state=&rego=

I've been keeping an eye on the graphene products. I've mainly been watching APEX DETAIL, who has just done a video on this product (I'm about to watch it) Have you tried mixing different products, for example Turtle wax Ceramic, and some another product just out of curiosity?

How much did those rags set you back?

The sale starts today mate :-) https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/nulon-nulon-full-synthetic-long-life-engine-oil-5w-30-6-litre/343508.html

I got the catalogue in the mail a couple days ago, The sale starts today :-) https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/nulon-nulon-full-synthetic-long-life-engine-oil-5w-30-6-litre/343508.html

No, but my Engine light isn't on. Is it worth buying an ebay (?) one?

In the up coming Supercheap catalog the Nulon full synthetic 5W30 6 L is on special (half price from memory)

LOL in regards to your comment about having an **** just like Niki Lauda I think what may be happening in my car, is that under normal load, and low to mid RPM the ignition timing can't be advanced enough (maybe ECU limitation due to tune, or to protect the engine) to take full advantage of the anti-knock resistance of the fuel And as a result the mixture isn't burning at the most efficient rate, almost giving the same effect to using 91 octane fuel (which the ignition timing can't be advanced far enough to get the most efficient burn due to the lower knock resistance of the fuel). And since apparently ECU's won't lean the mixture too much (in an attempt to reduce Nitrous Oxide emissions, even though the car has a Catalytic converter....) Because leaning the mixture increases the combustion temperature (leading to an increase in Nitrous Oxide emissions, which is also why they introduced EGR valves in cars before they had 3 way Catalytic converters), and also reduces the fuels resistance to knock (which is why in aviation the avgas has 2 ratings, one for Lean and one for Rich: 100/130 It's just a guess, Because everything else I know says that: Higher octane fuel = more advance in engine timing = more efficient burn = more KM per tank Perhaps for my car: City only = 91-95 Octane (maybe, since I have not tried this yet) City plus normal highway speeds = 95 Octane (seems to be the case) Mount Panorama (vehicle speed and as a result higher engine load and higher RPM) = 98 Octane Just postulating at the moment...

Let us know if you notice anything using this oil (change in engine noise, change in fuel economy etc) :-)

😞 Did you end up buying a new tyre/s as well?

I was recently at Bathurst and so I decided to do a few laps of THE Mountain, I was trying to keep within the speed limit, whilst wondering why the guy in front was driving so boring whilst I was doing "racing lines" for the corners, only to discover that it's a 2 way street... lucky I discovered this on conrod straight, not one of the corners.... I used to carry several 5L "drop tanks", but they always seem to fumigate the car 😞 What brand do you use?