Novicebutnice

Thanks Ashley for that info, to be honest I was surprised at the high cost of the filter, especially if it is a serviceable item (and why Toyota had only 1 in stock in Sydney). I was looking at the Valvoline which is full synthetic as well, but for at least this first fluid change I'm glad that I went genuine. Because I can feel the difference in the shifting compared to before, and if I had gone straight to non-genuine I may have come to the conclussion that the better shifting was due to the non-genuine oil being better than OEM. My car doesn't have an auto cooler, but has a ATF fluid heater? @ 2:39 to the right of the top radiator hose

From what the Ashley has said on this car the filter doesn't need to get replaced (I'll remember that for the future), and I might go non-genine oil if the car is still under "extended warranty" when I have the ATF changed again. But it is definitively cheaper than a new transmission :-)

Hi Tony, I'm not sure if you would call the below burnt (I only put it into the bottle this morning, and so this is my first proper look at the oil) I was looking forward to trying a different oil, the place uses Valvoline full synthetic, but I'm glad that I didn't. Simply from the point of view of seeing how the transmission is with new genuine oil, I can now say that the shifting is smoother than before the oil change (it wasn't harsh, but I can tell the difference). If I had gone straight to a non-genuine oil, it would have led me to the conclusion that the non-genuine oil is better than the OEM oil (because of the smoother shifting) I bought the car brand new (Oct 17 build from memory, and purchased in Feb 18) My car doesn't have an Auto cooler, but does have an auto fluid heater (or is it heat exchange unit??), so perhaps that may be why it was fairly dark considering the "low" km's I don't do any towing, and whilst I drive it spiritedly at times, I wouldn't have said that I drive it "hard" @ 2:39 to the right of the radiator hose (for the auto fluid heater)

Greetings everyone, For some reason changing the Auto oil isn't in the service schedule, but my former mechanic and OTT self was never satisfied with that idea. So at 61,000km and 3.5 years I decided to have the oil changed, and it was going to be changed properly. As most people here know if you just drain and refill the auto and refill, you only change about half the oil (the other half is in the torque converter) So I decided that if I was going to have it done, it was going to be done properly (I understand everyone has budgetary constraints) including a flush and having the pan filter changed. Since the car is under "extended warranty" I opted for genuine ATF, and genuine pan filter. Costs (nearest whole dollar): 2 bottles of Genuine ATF $150 (needed 3, but I couldn't obtain another one, and I found out on the day AFTER they had started on my car) 1 Pan filter $150 additional trans-fluid for the flush (final refill was with the genuine oil only) + trans pan gasket + flush and labor in general = $264 Total = $564 Using non-genuine probably would have cost circa $420 from memory ($280 for tans oil and filter change, and circa $140 for the flush) Seeing the burnt oil that was in the car (sample shown and kept), and knowing that it has completely fresh oil + filter = priceless :-) Result: The shifting is smoother, though it wasn't bad before changing it (it just feels that bit more refined, and to sound corny... like new) I would recommend this (as best as your budget allows), as it is cheaper than a new/ re-built transmission :-) Regards Stephen

I also prefer the Ryco cabin filter over the genuine :-)

I stopped using Ryco oil filters a number of years ago, when they started being made in China...

This may help mate, whilst my version doesn't use these products it does show the principles behind it :-) But, if you change the oil very regularly and don't have any known existing sludge issues, than adding a flush to the mostly still good oil should be ok (though I would still run a cheap semi-synthetic oil to rinse the engine to get any residual cleaners out):

100% especially when you need to use the Aircon, and then try to overtake/ go up a steep hill without turning the aircon off......

The idea behind the multiple oil changes is, The way oil removes contaminants is by holding them in suspension until the oil gets to the oil filter where most is removed (which is why oil filters have a bypass, so that if they become clogged by contaminants the engine can still have a supply of oil, since dirty oil is better than no oil). As the oil gets "older" it's ability to hold the contaminants in suspension is reduced, meaning it will more so move the contaminants from one area to another (and possibly cause an issue), instead of taking the contaminants to the oil filter (which may already be clogged). By using fresh oil and filter you are giving the flush the best chance to remove the contaminants. The second oil and filter change is to remove any residual cleaners, and potentially left over contaminants (like from the sump that you might not have been able to fully drain (I used to refit the sump plug and dump about 1 litre of oil in, and then remove the sump plug, but I've never needed to do a flush). I agree that everyone has their own version, and some people may not be able to afford the numerous oil and filter changes in my version. And I would only suggest doing this if you just bought the car second hand/ have a car with known sludge issues etc But if someone is servicing their vehicle properly (including doing the in-between services, and using quality oil) than an oil flush isn't even needed :-)

LOL It's like the smell that every Datsun Sunny had coming out of the exhaust, once you have smelt it.... you never forget it, A mixture of a mechanics garage and burning oil.

Depending on if there will be any longevity issues, I was happy that Toyota "worked" their current 2.5 on the Camry (non-hybrid) to the point that it puts out 152 KW (at 6600 rpm) and mated it to the 8 speed auto, especially since they dropped the V6 option. To me this is a healthy power to weight ration (compared to my 2017 RZ which has 135 kw, and a 6 speed), But that this is only available on the base model is disappointing from my point of view. It should also have been made available on the SX especially since they killed the V6 option (though I understand their reasoning from an economic and long term planning point of view).

Or the Holden with the Starfire engine Peak power output for the Starfire was 58 kW (78 hp), with a 17.5 second acceleration time from 0–100 kilometres (0–62 mi) in the VC Commodore. This variant's performance meant the need to push the engine hard leading to fuel consumption similar to the straight-sixes. Due to this, it was often nicknamed as Misfire or Backfire.

I'm sorry my comment about adding the flush to new engine oil and then draining was meant in a general way. Because most EOF that we can buy just say to add this to the oil before draining (after running for X amount of time). And whilst I can understand why they say this, but adding this to engine oil that is already at the end of it's life (as well as the oil filter) is the least effective way of doing it. For me once I find something that works, I usually just stick with it. But I do like to "experiment" which is why I decided to try Liquimoly Molygen 10W30 (which is apparently full synthetic) The 5W30 comes up as incompatible on both Autobarn's list, as well as Liqui Moly Australia for my car. What led me down that garden path is that I was looking at Liqui Moly additives, and what's available here in Australia, And decided that instead of adding an additive to my usual oil (Shell Helix ultra 5W30, usually the ECT), I would just buy Liqui Moly oil which is roughly the same price as my usual oil. I have plenty of my usual oil on hand so if it doesn't work out, I'll just change it :-) (https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Brands/LiquiMoly/Liqui-Moly-Molygen-New-Generation-10W-30-5L/p/OA04961)

Sorry this is a bit late, but better late than never 😉 All new Camry's now are a minimum of 95 octane fuel, which to me is neither here nor there since that is what I use. The major issue that I have is that they finally give it some power, and an 8 speed, but have it (non-hybrid) available on the base model..... For the Rav 4 it may have the smaller engine because of an age old "flaw" in philosophy. Yes different gearing helps, but in general a smaller engine will use more fuel than a larger engine (all things being equal). Last year I was in the lovely town of Parkes, and in the information centre is a couple museums. One of which has a cut down Magna, which tells the story of how when the 2.4L was available and was advertised as using less fuel than the 3.0 or 3.5 at the time, the vast majority of the 2.4L users found that they used MORE fuel than the 3.0/3.5 L Magna's. The reason is simple, the small engine only uses less fuel if you don't require it to do more than extremely sedate driving....

To be honest I don't see the need for EOF when the car is new, provided that you are doing the in between services. If using an EOF I would recommend doing a double or triple oil change, that is drain the oil and filter, Add new oil (and filter) plus the flush, run the engine and then drain, change filter and fill oil and run the engine, followed by changing the oil and filter again (this ensures that any "flush" detergents are cleaned out of the system). My reason is that part of what oil does is "trap" contaminants and keep them in suspension and then have them end up in the oil filter. But if you are adding the flush additive to oil that is at the end of it's life, it doesn't have the same capacity to carry the contaminants to the oil filter (which is also at the end of it's life). So I would buy some semi-synthetic oil for the flush, and then use a full synthetic for the final fill. I generally use a full synthetic that is known for "engine cleanliness", although this time I've tried a different synthetic oil brand, but I have plenty of the "good stuff" if my "foray" with this different oil doesn't work out :-)

From my own experience with my current MY17 RZ Camry which is min 91 Octane, I haven't used 91 octane fuel in my current car, since I determined with my last car (05 Corolla sedan) that while the car did run without issue, it seemed as though the car used the fuel noticeably quicker than higher octane fuels, as well it felt as though the power/torque curve had changed. In regards to 95 octane versus 98 octane, for a car tuned for 91 octane, unless you are driving the car above 5000RPM all the time, than 98 has no benefit. And in fact for my car, gave inferior performance compared to 95 below about 5000 RPM. Driving in the city you won't notice much difference between the min octane fuel that your car is tuned for, and the max octane fuel that is available. The higher the octane fuel, the higher the quality (lower sulfur) On the highway is where I noticed the difference, slight increase in range, as well as while overtaking. So in general I think the rule of thumb for petrol in terms of seeing some sort of a positive difference (which in general won't be enough to make up for the higher cost) is: Tuned for 91 use max 95 Turned for 95 using 98 can yield some benefits. However what also needs to be taken into account is that some cars seem to prefer some brands over other (my 05 Corolla didn't like 7/11 fuel, so I don't use it often enough in my MY17 Camry to see if this still rings true). Given that here in Australia the base fuel is used by all the major brands, it has to come down to the secret herbs and spices that each brand adds to the base fuel to make their own unique fuel ("V Power", "Ultimate", "Amplify 98", etc)

Isn't that what the "Italian tune up" is for??

The current Petrol only Camry (base model only) 2.5 has had a few tweeks and now puts out 152 KW (comp ratio 13:1, and now min 95 Octane fuel)

My real world experience reflects https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rf1uTdvNWhI starting at 4:20 So not only do I experience a tangible benefit, here in Australia (and probably world wide) the higher octane fuels have less sulfur allowed, But I have experienced a limit to higher=better, which is why I wrote my original comment. From my own real world experience using a slightly higher octane fuel yielded a benefit. But unless you are towing, using the highest grade (98) if your car has 91 as the minimum, will not yield to any benefit over 95, and I personally found it to yield poorer fuel economy. However if you are only city driving, it may not be as noticeable. Have you noticed any difference trying different octane fuels (filling up from empty so that it can be as close as possible to being "undiluted")?

The fuel recommended is the minimum that is required to prevent engine damage :-) Using a higher octane fuel will allow the engine ignition timing to be advanced further than a lower octane fuel. The car is constantly trying to advance the timing, and will do so until either it detects engine knock (at which point it retards the ignition timing, before starting to advance it again), or it reaches it's maximum programmed limit. The reason it does this is because advancing the ignition timing allows for a more efficient fuel burn, leading to a more efficient power stroke. So whilst a car that is designed to run on min 91 Octane fuel will not be damaged using regular unleaded, it is not running at it's more efficient. For some the addition cost may not be offset by the increase in range (city only driving), and that may play a part in the decision to just use 91. If you haven't tried a higher octane fuel (95), I would recommend it (if for nothing else a fun experiment) next time your tank is near empty :-)

Greetings everyone, With all the marketing, as well as old truths it may be hard to know which Petrol (gasoline for any non Australians reading this) is best for your car. (Also for non Australians reading this, our Petrol Octane uses the RON system not the MON system https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating) Don't get me wrong generally speaking the higher the grade, the higher the quality of the fuel. However is there such thing as too much octane? The answer I believe is yes. The way higher octane benefits your engine, is that it allows the spark plug to fire sooner. This leads to more efficient combustion, which leads to more power in the power stroke, Which ultimately leads to needing to use less fuel to produce the same amount of force, and an increase in range for the same volume of petrol. However there is only so much advancing that can be done before it becomes detrimental leading to back firing etc (which is why modern cars have limits on how much the spark plug timing can be advanced). And if the engine can't take advantage of it, it may in face lead to worse performance in the lower REV range, (for example my MY17 RZ Camry, 98 Octane won't yield anything positive until about 4500 RPM, and it performs inferior to 95 octane fuel below that engine RPM), and as a result gives worse fuel economy. So can using a higher octane fuel than the minimum your car is rated for lead to benefits, yes of course. But only to a certain point. I believe that the best rule of thumb (based on my own real world experience) is: If your car has 91 (RON) octane as the minimum, unless you are towing than 95 Octane will yield the best results If you car has 95 (RON) Octane as the minimum, than 98 will yield a better result than 95 If your car has 98 (RON) as the minimum, well you can't go any higher without using an additive. I'm interested to know what your own real world experience has shown :-) Steve

Have you tried using liquimoly engine oil? I'm thinking of trying this one in the near future (the liquimoly australian website doesn't have the 5w30 in this oil as a recommendation for my car, it does for their other oils https://www.liquimoly.com.au/oil-finder ) 😞 https://www.autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Brands/LiquiMoly/Molygen-10W-30-5-Litre/p/OA04961

Something you may find interesting, You will use more fuel in colder temperatures (less than 15 deg C) You will get the best performance using 95 Octane fuel. I recently drove from Newcastle to Brisbane via the Pacific Motor Way, and managed to regularly hit 6.5 L/100 (the car is "rated" at 6L/100 km on the highway) Whilst I was the only one in the car, I didn't pack light (the car was pretty much full). I don't use "fuel saving" tyres, and I was keeping close to the speed limit (in 110km/h areas, I had the cruise control set to 108km/h), and I used the aircon on and off. Although the car was clean (recently washed and spray waxed) And I managed to drive from Newcastle to Brisbane on a single tank :-) I found that the benefits of 98 Octane aren't felt until you get to about 4000+ RPM, before that the engine is not that enthusiastic using that fuel For great responsiveness from idle to about 5000 RPM I recommend 95 Octane (I generally use BP/Shell/Caltex) Don't get me wrong above 4500-5000 RPM the 98 is superior, but the trade off is in the responsiveness until you get to that point. Driving from Brisbane to Newcastle using 98 Octane fuel gave worse fuel economy with a best result of 6.9L/100 km, compared to regularly hitting 6.5, and at the end in the 100 zone (Brisbane end) hitting 6.4... Oh and 5W30 full synthetic oil used.

I have an un-modded 2017 RZ Camry, I am having driveway issues as is, and it handles well enough (better than a standard Camry) as they already have a "sports suspension" You may be better off spending money on performance mods. Also make sure that the oil has been changed regularly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4JS7PybV2k Regards Steve

If I was in the market, I would look at the cost of an import Camry AWD V6 (if it exists).... Maybe this will be the new big Jap import (second hand like the skylines???)