Novicebutnice

Try 809 if you haven't been able to find a solution yet.

I wonder why it is only SL not SN spec?

And this should be enough oil for you 😜 https://www.repco.com.au/en/oils-fluids/engine-oils-fluids/engine-oil/c/1862918079?q=%3Arelevance%3A1862918079%2F1926767971%3A10.0&page=1

I only need 4.4 L for my car so I have some spare oil (from previous oil changes) if you want to try the Shell helix Ultra 5W30 ECT

Currently some Shell and some Nulon engine oils are on special at Supercheap!!!

Hey mate, I definitely agree that anyone who see's 98 octane as liquid Schwartz and that it add's X amount of power is mistaken. But I'm sure that I am not alone, but I can feel the power curve (?) difference using the different fuels... I guess you can call me Niki Lauda...

Hey mate, I use the claimed amount of fuel pumped, and I take note of the amount of KM's driven and do the maths. I then reset both the trip computer, as well as the "average since last reset" The car's "avg since last reset" is usually fairly accurate enough based on what I have found (given that I cannot gauge how accurate the fuel pump is, as well as being unable to account for variance in fuel density due to different temperatures) Cars normally taking a few hundred KM's to adjust to new fuel trims based on each fuel (understandably if I go down in octane and it starts pinging I would expect it to adjust pretty darn quick), in that it takes time work out a map for that fuel is why I never wanted to chop and change between fuels. I felt that I wouldn't get a proper result, in that I had heard of higher end car's straight away giving a different range after refilling with fuels like E10 etc, but I thought that my Camry would take time to adjust. But seemingly my car sensed the different fuel within about 200 metres of driving and displayed a larger range to empty, then it had ever done with 98 (after refilling) Which means that for whatever reason my car's ECU was not able to advance the timing enough to be able to get the most out of 98 Octane fuel. Whether it is an imposed limitation of the mapping because it is tuned to run on a minimum of 91 octane unleaded, or a number of other reason's I'm not sure. All I can say at the moment (with provable figures) is that the cars predicted range to empty using 95 is 710km versus 600km filling up using 98 octane fuel And If I was to predict (with no provable evidence, based solely on how I feel the car drives) the power curves between the two fuels, on how they affect my car I would guess (at the moment): 95 octane achieves power noticeably sooner and peaks in the rev range a bit lower than the 98 (so I would say low to mid-high end power) Whereas the 98 Octane takes more time to start making decent power, and it peaks noticeably higher in the rev range (so I would say mid-high to high end power), at which point you run out of Revs, or the car up-shifts (and you are back in mid rev ranges....).

I use Wolfgang black diamond gel It only lasts a couple weeks, but the main and pretty much only reason that I chose it, is that it claims to be environmentally friendly/safe https://www.waxit.com.au/collections/wolfgang-concours-series/products/wolfgang-black-diamond-tyre-gel-473ml

My gut is saying that it may be Shell Rotella (for us I think the equivalent is Shell Helix Ultra) A good Youtube Chanel if for nothing but entertainment is "Project Farm"

Greeting everyone, I have recently on both here and Youtube flown the flag of "98 Octane is the best for every unleaded car" , but a recent driving holiday has caused me to question this. So.....I decided fairly recently (last week) to fill up (circa 54L of a 60L tank) using BP 95 Octane fuel, And immediately my cars expected range to zero increased versus filling up with 98 octane fuel. I usually reset my trip computer, as well as my "average since last reset" to compare if the car is giving me truthful information (comparing what it says my average has been, with how much fuel I have used), and it is usually within tolerance (unknown accuracy of the pump etc taken into account it is fairly accurate,or at least accurate enough) So I can say that every time I fill up with 98 (which is nearly always BP) my car gives a range of 600 KM, which I always thought to be bleak because the range figure never increases even when driving on the highway, it just reduces slower or at times just gives what I call strange figures (seems to show a lower range than I would expect given how much fuel is in the tank, and then figures this out and seems to show correct information....) And now on to the point of this post, I have filled up twice with BP 95 Octane fuel, once from nearly empty, the other from half full (the pump claims from memory without checking the reciept 33 L of a 60 L tank), and on both occasions the predicted range displayed was: 710km Which means that by buying slightly lower Octane fuel which is also cheaper, I am getting more range. The next day after filling up (the first time) I drove up to Katoomba from Southern Sydney, and made no attempt to reduce fuel consumption by cruising at a lower speed than the speed limit (and sometimes a tad....), and the average fuel used up to Katoomba from Sydney was from memory 7.4L per 100km Perhaps if I was doing constant highway speeds, and cruising at higher than the legal speed limit (necessitating a higher engine RPM) the 98 Octane may come into play, But in city driving, as well as cruising at the highway speeds we have in Australia, for a car tuned for a minimum octane of 91, anything over 95 seems to have the opposite effect. It is almost as though the timing can't be advanced enough (for a number of reasons like insufficient load, or any more advancing may cause back firing etc ) and so it seems to have the same effect of running a lower octane fuel in regards to fuel burn (range). I'm a bit curious now as to what range figure using 91 will give me (predicted), but dare I subject my car to that?? And I don't use energy efficient tyres.....

But... but... what oil does he use? Or do we all have to wait for the follow up video

As odd as this sounds, I would recommend using a can of Subaru upper engine cleaner and an oil change when you get back. It is possible that either your oil flush, or the Nulon (correction Liqui Moly) oil additive (or perhaps that combination) has caused an issue in the cylinders. I base this on 2 experiences I had as an apprentice mechanic where I had used Fortron "Engine flush" before an oil change And when the foreman road tested the cars after the oil change they blew smoke, so we used the upper engine cleaner and hey presto it fixed the issue (he was less than impressed the second time around... my bad...). Something about the product causing the piston rings to not seal properly?? Hopefully you find the issue and it is a quick and preferably cheap fix :-)

It's all of those extra killer wasps 😉

What, no fresh coat of wax to ensure parasitic drag is at a minimum.... Where's the dedication???

I could be mistaken because I'm not sure what the exhaust colour would be with a oil catch can fitted, From doctor google: Black exhaust smoke Diagnosis: Not normal Black exhaust smoke can appear when the vehicle is burning too much fuel. This could be caused by a clogged air filter, malfunctioning fuel injection system, a blocked manifold, or a variety of other issues. A clogged air filter won’t hurt your gas mileage thanks to today’s automotive technology, says Consumer Reports, but you’ll pay for it with poor performance. Have your vehicle checked out by a technician to see why your vehicle is burning more fuel than usual. Blue indicates that you are burning oil, black is when the engine is running rich. Let us know how you go :-)

How did you go mate?

I don't have a torque wrench anymore, but I do have a breaker bar that is about half a meter long that I keep in the car. I'm thinking about going to DBA rear rotors when it's time for new pads (depending what Toyota say when I take it in for a supplementary service) What are your thoughts on RDA Rotors?

I remember hearing that the hot pads keeping in static contact with the rotor once the vehicle comes to stop is one of the main causes, I'm taking it in to Toyota on Friday for a supplementary oil change, and (because I'm a sucker) to update the SatNav maps (I figure I'l do it every couple of years) I'll mention it and see what Toyota say

Hi, I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this, where the rear brake discs are warped, but not the fronts. I understand that on my car that the rear discs are solid and that the fronts are ventilated, but usually 80% of braking is done by the front brakes on most cars. So if anything I would be expecting the fronts to become warped first (also based on my experience when I was a car mechanic). The symptom is when braking at a higher speed, especially when going down a Hill like Mt Ousley I feel a very noticeable shudder being transmitted through the Pedal and I feel the rear of the car also shuddering very noticeably as well, But the steering wheel has no vibration at all. I have just shy of 40,000 km and I have owned it since new (I've had it about 2.5 years) Thoughts?

Now I don't know what to do... I'm having a supplementary oil change this coming Friday, and I was going to use engine oil that I had previously purchased "Shell Helix Ultra X 5W30 SN+" (https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/shell-shell-helix-ultra-x-engine-oil-5w-30-5-litre/591785.html?cgid=SCA01070403#prefn1=srgBrand&prefv1=Shell&sz=60&start=4) I might ring Supercheap Menai and see if they have any of the Nulon in stock..........

I made that mistake... once The tyre brand was reputable, but I mentioned that my driving style was spirited.... and was sold tyres that were at best an "everyday tyre" and were about the same as what came OEM with my last car... even though my budget was quite high (relatively speaking)

That's probably the number one thing that makes me angry about some car owners. They can't seem to comprehend that the black round things connect their car to the road, but then again I have heard that some of the tyre shops share an equal or most of the blame. They seem to be so eager to make a profit that I have heard of instances where they have suggested a tyre that clearly they have a better mark up on, irrespective of how bad the tyre is. or so eager for a sale no matter what that they suggest some cheap nasty thing just to make the sale. I honestly think that all tyres need to be regularly randomly (not supplied by the manufacturers) tested to ensure that they are safe to be sold, and of course publish the results on an easy to access website

I first saw it for the Honda Hybrid Civics when they first came to Australia (I was working in the PD dept at the time and we needed to have some of that oil in case we needed to top any cars up), Though the girlfriend's Subaru Liberty uses 5W20 Which kind of begs the question, thinner fuel to save on fuel like 0W20 or 5W20 Or slightly thicker oil for what should be better protection, heat dissipation, cleansing (?) etc like 5W30, 5W40 etc Me personally I go the slightly thicker oil (not exceeding the manufacturers recommendations) The age old saying was that as a car gets older and starts to blow smoke the "fix" was just to put in thicker engine oil, but nowadays with the size of the oil gallery holes, and in general tighter tolerances in engines means that you can't really do that.

I remember when I was doing my apprenticeship and I looked at the owners Service schedule for a certain brand : "15,000km normal driving conditions" "7500 km under severe driving conditions" And what was in the list of "Severe diving conditions"... pretty much everything, from highway driving, to city driving..... I think part of the problem is that I think the manufacturers are trying to win people back to their Service departments and away from corner garages, and also try to make it seem inexpensive to own their brand of car. Yes oils have come a long way, but so have engines.

I used Shell Ultra 5W40 in my last car (2005 Corolla sedan), and I did notice that as well, but after that initial change the rate of oil discoloration slowed, and the engine was literally clean as new when I checked (taking off the oil cap, and using a torch to see as much as I could), to the point that when I changed and added in the oil it looked brand new as far as I could see in with the torch, absolutely no sludge what-so-ever, and no discoloration of engine components etc :-) Do you find any noticeable difference, like the Engine being quieter using oil "X", or noticeable variation in fuel usage using oil "Y"? I've been pretty happy with the Shell Ultra 5W30, but I was catching up with an old work mate at a wedding last year, and he was saying that Nulon is spending a lot on R&D over the last few years (apparently) I haven't tried Penrite yet....