Novicebutnice

That's why I was surprised, esp since on Youtube they (Toyota) were advertising the same servicing schedule in North America using Mobile 1..... Which is why I asked to confirm etc... glad I did! What I don't understand is why they don't offer an oil upgrade option So for $30 extra on top of the capped price Service you get full synthetic oil But then again as I'm sure we are all aware, a lot of people who own cars don't want to spend a cent more than they have to..... oh look no name black round things at $20 each.... it's not like they connect my car to the road... what could possibly go wrong....... I'll take 4.....

That's pretty much what my aim is, we'll see what happens next time I take it in for an in between oil and filter change

Even with using full Synthetic I would still like to change the oil more often than the 15,000 km 9 months, but my local dealership doesn't like taking money off me To me 15,000 km / 9 months is an extended oil drain I used to be a car mechanic at a dealership (not Toyota), and so as soon as they said "semi-synthetic" and the brand I was like... oh hell no!

To me it sound's like the caliper slides need to be cleaned and lubed (remember too much grease is as bad as not enough grease), but changing the brake fluid and bleeding any air out is also good. The problem may actually be the front right. I base this on most cars have about 80% of the braking on the front wheels and 20% on the rear wheels (under normal conditions), As you are applying the brakes to stop the car, but because only one side is working properly (only 60% brakes working) you are probably pushing down on the pedal harder leading to the left locking up (because the right isn't working properly, in my theory), you may even notice the steering wheel / car pulling left. As the brakes heat up the caliper slides (with probably old / insufficient grease) starts to free up a bit leading to the brakes working a bit better Let us know how you go, hopefully it is a cheap to fix issue.

Good afternoon everyone, My reason for this post is to get people's thoughts about what engine oils that they currently use. When I purchased my 2017 RZ Camry I decided to supply my own engine oil, even though as part of the sale I got 3-4 years capped price servicing at $140 I decided to supply my own engine oil after discovering that the local dealership uses a semi-synthetic oil, but with the oil change interval at 15,000km / 9 months I felt that the semi-synthetic wasn't up to the task (as I had seen that the engine oil level had dropped, which to me indicated that the oil was breaking down) I currently use Shell Ultra 5W30 and have not noticed any loss of oil (I decided on this oil based on using Shell Ultra 5W40 in my last car) But I was wondering if people have any current experience with other oils (I'm happy with what I use, but I'm curious about Nulon and others). In my last car I tried different brands, I found that when using Nulon (semi-synthetic 10W30) that my fuel consumption went up (compared to other semi-synthetic 10W30 oils) and found other users found the same thing (reading reviews and forums) But this is old information, and what was true "years ago" may no longer be true. I'm looking at full Synthetic 5W30, and I was wondering if anybody else has tried different brands and found any noticeable difference?

When I bought my RZ Camry it came with an offer of fixed price servicing of $140 for the first 3-4 years.... But I still supply my own oil..... Because I too understand the affliction But then again the dealership reckons that a Semi-Synthetic Castrol oil lasts 15,000km / 9 months..... I humbly STRONGLY disagree....

At least $624 NZD is better than $840 NZD But still $60ish NZD per tyre more than the PS4S, and I don't think that the grip increase is worth $60+ NZD per tyre Though here in Australia for your tyre size the difference is $14 AUD which would make it sensible to go the Super Sport over the PS4S Though in my size (225/45 R18) it's $70 AUD more expensive per tyre (though this is compared to the PS4, not the PS4S as this isn't available in my size), but they would only set me back $319 AUD per tyre ($340.82 NZD) Let us know what you end up buying when it comes to replace your tyres

Our fuel isn't as bad as it used to be, but still not up there compared to Europe (from what I have read) To be honest I wasn't there, so I'm not sure if the wording was premium fuel, or specifically 98 A little off topic but I wonder if they will find a way to make butanol fuel financially viable and using it to replace ethanol in fuel blends. Also a tad off topic, in aviation gasoline they have 2 octane ratings, one for rich and one for lean, I wonder if for example if they do, or ever will allow the ECU to not only advance the ignition timing based on knock sensor inputs, but also allow the ECU to lean the mixture out if it is unable to advance the timing any further due to the fuel being of a higher octane than is required (provided this doesn't damage the catalytic converter or other engine components due to the engine running hotter)

Here in Australia on Jax tyre website, 245/35 R19 converted to NZD = Super Sport: $437.21 PS4S: $390.18 (https://www.jaxtyres.com.au/tyres/sizes/19-inch/245-35r19?searchqrytype=TyreSize&sizeid=50&isrunflat=False&brands=12_1&pricerange=0_0&searchtype=All&sorttype=PriceDesc&pagesize=45&pagenumber=1) Cheapest I could find for Pilot Super Sport in your size (NZ store) was $624 NZD (https://beaurepaires.co.nz/product-tag/buy-tyres-online/?filter_tyre-width=245&filter_tyre-rim=19&filter_tyre-profile=35&ixwpst[product_cat][]=20&title=1&excerpt=1&content=1&categories=1&attributes=1&tags=1&sku=1&ixwpsf[taxonomy][pa_vehicle-type][show]=set&ixwpsf[taxonomy][pa_vehicle-type][multiple]=0&ixwpsf[taxonomy][pa_vehicle-type][filter]=1&ixwpsf[taxonomy][product_cat][show]=set&ixwpsf[taxonomy][product_cat][multiple]=1&ixwpsf[taxonomy][product_cat][filter]=1) There are 2 types of the Super Sport (they look identical in the pictures), I honestly don't know what the difference is, maybe one has reinforced side walls??? But either way mate, you guys over the ditch are being ripped off!

Hey mate, It's a little hard for me to give my thoughts without knowing which variant and model. I don't work for Toyota but I have worked in the automotive industry (not Toyota) as a mechanic, so I will try to give my thoughts based on this experience. In years past the Corolla Sedan went from being made in Japan to not being made in Japan. Many people will argue that cars made not in the country of origin (Toyota is Japanese) are of the same quality etc But I can tell you, that doing an unintended blind test (not of a Toyota) I could feel the difference in how the car drove of one made in the country of origin, and one that wasn't The one that wasn't was like it had been assembled without any "love", it looked right, but it just didn't feel right when driving it. With the new model Corolla both the hatch and sedan are manufactured in Japan (at least for the Australian market) so I would say that quality in production shouldn't be an issue. Hopefully someone with Toyota experience can give more information about suggestions etc so that the advice is relevant As opposed to my generalized opinion about why I chose my car over the competition.

If your budget allows the Pilot Super Sport may be available in your size (I'm not sure if you are in Australia or not, and what size your tyres are)

My girlfriend was working at a Toyota dealership when the Aurion was released, She said that they (Toyota) gave 2 different power outputs for the Aurion, one for 91, and one for 98 Using 91 Octane the power was 200 killer wasps Using 98 Octane it was 204 killer wasps

You may get better fuel economy using BP

The biggest contributor to fuel economy is how heavy your right foot is. Outside of that, in normal (usually highway driving) you will see a slight fuel economy improvement using a higher non-ethanol blend octane fuel. But it usually isn't enough to justify the added expense (if you are doing it to save money, as opposed to using less fuel and being greener... or is it "greener"??) For example using Shell and 60L as the volume: 91 = $1.379 = $82.74 95 = $1.529 = $91.74 98 = $1.609 = $ 96.54 And if I get an extra 100km (usual cited figure on fuel forums) using 98 octane at my car's stated highway usage (6L per 100km) if I just used 91 octane I would only have paid $8.28 for the extra 100km instead of the nearly $14 extra using 98. That being said, the higher octane fuels are of a better quality, and as a result keep longer (which is the main reason that I use 98 Octane fuel).

The valve Saver fluid is not of any use in a modern car or motorcycle. The origin of valve Saver fluid comes from when leaded fuel was removed from the market (which is why it is called a lead replacement product). Which wasn't a problem for the modern cars at the time, but there were still some older cars and motorcycles that needed this product, And the reason is that the older cars didn't have hardened valve seats (and from memory some didn't have hardened valves), and so the valve head/ valve seat would be damaged from the constant "impacts" when the valve closed, because the lead in the fuel acted as a lubricant/ "impact insulator", and with this removed from the fuels, these engine components would get damaged. So in short, you don't need this product if you have a modern vehicle :-) When it comes to injector cleaners.... I use them every now and then as a maintenance item, along with using 98 octane fuel from reputable Petrol Stations But they are not liquid schwartz, in spite of what some brands (pretty much all of them) claim "unlocks horse power".....

I have a 2017 Camry RZ, tyre size is 225/45 R18 and I run my tyres at 36-38 PSI The car came stock with Bridgestones Turanza ER300's (made in Poland) which had good grip but while legal after 1.5 years (circa 25,000km even with rotation) I could feel that the grip had deteriorated (I'm sure it had nothing to do with my driving style... cough cough....). Since I had previously used the Bridgestone RE 003's on my last car (05 Corolla sedan) they were one of the top contenders as was the Michelin PS4 I considered the Primacy 4 but a few reviewers had noted a strange feeling while driving (their words not mine), though it would be good to have a tyre that had top notch braking even when mostly worn (as is claimed by Michelin for the Primacy 4). The other major brands just seemed so hit and miss in regards to the reviews, whereas the PS4 and the RE003 had consistent 4-5 stars, and a far greater percentage of the total results were 3+ stars (and mostly in the 4-5 stars range). While I would have liked the PS4S, this isn't available in Australia though the Super sport is now available (re-branded PS4S??) if you are in the market :-) I ended up choosing the Bridgestone RE003 for the following reasons: - Previous good experience - Very good grip reported by the vast majority of users (dry and wet) and I could attest to this from my previous experience - Good steering feedback (from my point of view with the last set) - Consistent very good reviews by users - Cost, they were 4 for the price of 3 at the time, which was final deciding factor over the PS4 My own thoughts, are that if cost is not an issue the Michelin Pilot Super Sport should be high on a persons list, though this is based on the solid performance of the PS4 and PS4S that I have read about. From what I have read the Michelin's are pretty much the best in the wet (and I am happy to further my knowledge by being corrected) I don't have any regrets over my choice, and while I would like to gladly say I would buy another set when they are due, at the end of the day cost is a factor in my choice, and if Michelin's are on sale for example this would affect my decision.

I found the ER300's that came stock on my RZ to have good grip, but wore out way too early. They were made in Poland.....

If you had been using 98 and then went to 95 the engine could be trying to "sort itself out" they usually do a minor re-map when you change fuel

A bit of a long story I was originally in the market for a Corolla SX Manual Sedan, but the value proposition compared to it's rivals wasn't there. Especially since it was no longer made in Japan... And when I went in to the dealer they had no SX Manual's, and none left on the MY17 plate clearance (and neither did Toyota apparently), and when I sat in the back of a base model I couldn't sit upright (I'm 1.75m) But since the salesman was good at his job he suggested a Camry since they had a 0% finance offer due to run out. I was a bit skeptical given some of the reviews on the Camry (which must have been the base model), but after a test drive I was pretty happy. To sum up why I bought a Camry (2017 RZ): - 0% finance was a big seller, enabling me to get a nicer, more spacious car for less money (when factoring interest on a loan). - Nice non-smelly interior (try getting into a Hyundai on a hot day.... mmmm plastic smell.....). - Nice calm driving dynamics, but not too boring. - Nice appearance. - Reliability. - Capped price servicing. - I could sit upright in the back seat. - Interior is a nice simple layout. Why I'm happy I bought a Camry: - Comfortable and spacious. - Using 98 fuel I achieve better fuel consumption than the label for the city, and if I travel at 100 km/h (by the speedo) I believe I could achieve the country driving fuel consumption. - No offensive over powering smells when getting in the car on a nice hot Australian summers day. - I enjoy driving it. - Doesn't use any extra fuel than my previous car (MY05 Corolla sedan, manual, base model). - Driving it is a no nonsense affair with all the controls laid out in a simple way so that I can concentrate on the road. - Insurance is the same as my last car Why I didn't consider it's rivals: - 0% finance. - Running costs. - Interior odors on some. Would I buy another Camry... you bet I would :-)

It sounds like the engine is "hunting" What fuel have you been using, it could be a bad batch, Otherwise I would replace spark plugs and clean the throttle body as a start.